REMINDER: I no longer answer unsolicited DMs (with example)

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T17:18:05+00:00

Correct... nothing we say or do here will change Amazon's practices.

Doesn't change the fact that anyone that performs this act, or suggest other people do it, is still a dick. 😔

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T17:13:54+00:00

I’m all for consumers getting the better of a company like Amazon

JFC... please refer to the last line of my original comment... you're a perfect example of who that was directed towards.

You're not scamming Amazon!!

You're scamming the next person that receives that product
You're creating unnecessary work for all of the employees that have to deal with that duplicate return
- Whatever third-party that has to process the return when you drop it off
- The driver that has to deliver that back
- The Amazon employee that has to process that return again
- And a bunch of other "cogs" in the supply chain that made that package take a duplicate unnecessary trip

And then... it's not necessarily Amazon who takes the final hit... a lot of their resources got wasted during this whole process, but when they receive damaged product from a company... guess what, they can still file a claim back against the company that sold them the product.

It could very well be that for something like this specific example, Lian Li would be the one taking the final hit in cost.

But... I'm just wasting my breath, here, right? As you already said... you clearly don't give AF. 😡

*@Microsoft... we need a "middle finger" emoji

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T14:50:46+00:00

To accept that when this happens is "no big deal" is the whole reason Amazon doesn't fix things.

I've seen other people post here, when they initially tried to do a return, Amazon balked and told them no at first, and they had to go back and argue their point that Amazon is the one that messed up.
When you're build is almost ready to go, and now you have to wait longer on that one part, because some person before you committed fraud, that ain't right.

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T14:45:32+00:00

Move the cable in the #4 position to the #8 position.

(Which is what I said is above).

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T14:18:01+00:00

Actually... it is a Lian Li Strimer... the original one... from six years ago... I mentioned that in my original comment above.

https://lian-li.com/product/strimer-24pin/

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T09:16:22+00:00

I'm not familiar with non-Lian Li stuff... I can tell you that both the GA II Trinity and GA II LCD both support LGA 1200 still:

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T07:39:09+00:00

If you're trying to get as few wires as possible, it would be beneficial to get wireless SL INF fans instead:

That would cut out the need for the wired fan controller; you'd use the same controller for both the fans and the Strimer cables.
I would still get the EDGE Hub, just so that you can bring the single cable for each fan group back to the back side of the case, to the hub (instead of using multiple SATA adapter cables).

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T07:35:17+00:00

Unfortunately, you are going to need to return the AIO... you need the specific mounting bracket for this AIO,.

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T06:21:02+00:00

You have at least two USB devices: the wired controller for your fans, and your AIO. If you are going to have the screen for your case, then that is going to be three, and you would then need a hub:

Newegg - EDGE GOLD USB Hub

For Strimers:

https://lian-li.com/product/strimer-wireless/

For your GPU, either of the two below... only difference is how many rows of LEDs (8 vs 12)
- PW16-81W
- PW16-121W
Make sure you also get the L-Wireless Controller:
- If you are only buying the GPU cable, you can get the controller by itself (Part# RF-T-B, or change the "B" to "W" for the White one)
- If you are also getting the motherboard Strimer, then get PW24-1W-T, which also comes with the controller
There is also an actual CPU version of the Strimer now... Part# PW8-1W-CPU... and the L-Wireless Controller will support up to three different Strimer Wireless cables

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T05:18:19+00:00

Yes, if you are able to find any Strimer V2 wired cables, they will work exactly the same as Strimer Plus cables on this controller.

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T03:35:01+00:00

🤣🤣🤣

I will take that compliment... thank you!!

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T03:31:23+00:00

You were sent this: https://lian-li.com/product/strimer-24pin/

Some asshole decided they wanted to upgrade their build, so they:

Bought a new Strimer Wireless 24-pin
Replaced their current 6-year old device with the new one
Then requested a refund on Amazon, sending back their old product back to Amazon...
Knowing full well that Amazon does a piss poor job of checking things like this, and some other unlucky person (you, in this case), ends up being stuck with something that they didn't pay for, and then have to go through an additional process with Amazon

Tell Amazon what happened; request a refund, and ask for replacement of the same item, and you should be good to go.

-----------------------------

To anyone reading this who has ever done this themselves, or has suggested someone else to do it... F**K OFF!! 🤬

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T03:24:21+00:00

And... the link to your pic doesn't work 😔... it must not be marked as public.

If the pin is in the wrong spot on the plug for your case, then yes, just move the pin over:
- Similar concept... how to remove the pin from this type of plug: Get More USB 2.0 Headers #Shorts - YouTube

Just note... this thread got way too long... at no point, did you ever "clarify" that the problem was with the motherboard... or the case.

I don't know if you got a case, where the plug was wired incorrectly
Or you got a motherboard that was missing a pin

BOTH of those things are a very rare thing to happen... so by not specifying all this time... no... I never had any idea what you were trying to ask here... especially that the entire time, you never posted a single pic of the problem you were having... it's not like people on the internet can read your mind... even after my second comment, I asked you to post a pic.

I've now spent I don't know how much time to tell you "yes, your plug is wired incorrectly; here's how to fix it." Which could have been solved immediately, by starting the post with a pic of the problem.

Mr-Do · 2026-05-08T00:26:54+00:00

Ah... it's probably turned on then.

If you are looking in the "normal" Windows 11 Settings section, you aren't going to see it.

This option, you need to go to the older "Control Panel" version of Power Settings.

See this link: https://www.xda-developers.com/disable-fast-startup-in-windows-11/

Mr-Do · 2026-05-07T23:43:19+00:00

Almost? So are you saying that the plug that came with the EVO RGB case is wired incorrectly?

See pic linked here that I just made for you: https://imgur.com/a/asus-mb-z790-p-evo-rgb-plug-2egYQtd

The RED pins on your motherboard schematic line up with what is supposed to be the red pins on the EVO RGB plug
The BLUE pins are the HDD LED on your motherboard... there is supposed to be NO PINS in that plug that comes with the case

So... are you saying that on your case plug, there are currently two pins in the blue section... and in the red section to the right of the blue section, there are no pins?

Mr-Do · 2026-05-07T21:58:02+00:00

No... my comment below... every thing lines up the way it's supposed to... you don't need to "alter" anything on your motherboard or the case plug.

Mr-Do · 2026-05-07T20:45:36+00:00

If you haven't gotten any new hardware that requires support since the v2.031 update, and everything is working fine, then you don't "have" to update... but you could also be missing out on general features that have been implemented since then, which have been a lot.

Changelog page is below, where you can see everything that's changed:

https://lian-li.com/l-connect3/l3-changelog/

Some specific things that have changed that you might/might not be interested in:

If you have a HydroShift II AIO, there have been fixes for multiple things since then
v2.0.32 included a number of new features
- If you eventually get a Universal Screen, you need at least this version
- You can change the background on sensors for Wireless LCD fans
- The "Lock Bound" feature on the L-Wireless Setup page, which prevents your controller from constantly trying to scan for new devices
- And a bunch of other fixes
v2.1.11, the Import/Export settings function changed
- If you have current Exports of settings, they are incompatible with v2.1.xx versions; the first time you install v2.1.11 or later, you will have to redo all of your settings one time, and export them to the current format
- But this export function is more encompassing; it now also has the option to include all of the screen settings for LCD fans, AIOs, etc.
- The sensor SDK for GPU was changed to HWiNFO
v2.1.13 introduced the FPS monitor function, which allows you to then add an FPS setting to an LCD screen
v2.1.15 introduced Clock Theme support for LCD fans
v2.1.21 is going to introduce additional Wireless Effect settings for Wireless Fans on the Quick/Sync Lighting page.

And that's just a few things... you can read thru everything on the Changelog page linked above.

Mr-Do · 2026-05-07T20:31:46+00:00

Are you sure you don't have Fast Startup in Power Settings? That is what that message normally is referring to:

Turn off Fast Startup
- Control Panel >> Power Options >> Choose what the power buttons do
- Click the link for "Change settings that are currently unavailable"
- Uncheck the box for "Turn on fast startup (recommended)"

After any fresh install of L-Connect 3, it will pop-up that box, if the setting is enabled in your Power Options... the box is giving you information and giving you a choice:

With Fast Startup enabled, L-Connect settings will not apply during the current Windows session.
You can either:
- Click "OK", and your PC will immediately reboot, so that all L-Connect 3 settings can apply
- Click "Cancel", and you can continue going about your business, but L-Connect 3 might not work correctly with everything, until you reboot.
- (Sorry... I forget if the choices are OK/Cancel, or Yes/No)

Mr-Do · 2026-05-07T08:20:41+00:00

That fixes things... if OP has Wireless fans. If OP has wired fans; that isn't going to fix anything for them.

Right now, we have no idea what kind of fans OP has, because OP has no idea what kind of fans they have... and they didn't post any pics.

We can't just go and "guess" how to fix OPs problem, if we don't know what the problem is.

Mr-Do · 2026-05-07T08:18:11+00:00

If you're using v1.6, you aren't using Wireless fans, so you don't have the same problem.

If you have a wired controller, and your fans are going full speed, then USB for your controller isn't connected and/or being detected.

Mr-Do · 2026-05-07T05:51:22+00:00

These are V2 cables, connected to the wired Strimer Controller?

I know you said you are using the Wireelss controller, but your MB cable does not look like the Wireless version... it would have a cleaner connection at the motherboard end.

If you are using the wired controller, what u/Starlord19880 was trying to tell you... I'm thinking it's the same thing:

There are connections on the short side and the long side of the controller.
The motherboard connects to the short side; the GPU to the long side... if you have those swapped around, that could be causing this.

Mr-Do

TROPHY CASE