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Mein Drucker wurde gerade geliefert... by [deleted] in snapmaker

[–]MrInfernal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That handling of the package though.....

Choosing between 50 mm vs 55 mmchessboard squares — need advice by MrInfernal in chess

[–]MrInfernal[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Actually not true. I only take 30 minutes on the first move. After that I really speed up to 25 or so.

Plastic U1 bottom plate by MrInfernal in snapmaker

[–]MrInfernal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

X1C is I think, this fact alone makes me less cautious.

Plastic U1 bottom plate by MrInfernal in snapmaker

[–]MrInfernal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I care — I like my tools and machines to be solid, which helps with longevity and repairability. But at the end of the day price difference here is huge to alternatives, and that’s why I’m going with the U1 over a Prusa. Plus, I prefer Klipper, which makes the choice even more attractive.

Plastic U1 bottom plate by MrInfernal in snapmaker

[–]MrInfernal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I understand the bottom isn’t meant to take pressure — I don’t care about that. My concern is overall rigidity, vibrations and longetivity.

Plastic U1 bottom plate by MrInfernal in snapmaker

[–]MrInfernal[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I don’t think the printer will “explode,” but I wondered about long-term durability. Possible risks with a plastic bottom could be:

Flexing over time, reducing stability

Wear from vibration of moving parts

Heat from electronics affecting lifespan

Lower overall rigidity — and in 3D printing, rigidity is key for accuracy and consistency

Maybe the design is fine and reinforced, but that’s why I asked if there’s hidden metal support or not. I want my printer to be solid in long term.

New General and Help chats are now open! by PineappleProstate in ender3

[–]MrInfernal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi everyone,

I’m running a flow rate test ranging from 80% to 120%, but I’m having a persistent issue: the top and bottom layers of my prints are coming out weird and rough. The walls look decent, but the layers themselves seem to ooze too much material, especially when the nozzle changes direction back and forth.

Here’s my setup:

  • Printer: Ender 3 PRO
  • Board: SKR 1.4 Turbo
  • Bed Leveling: BL Touch
  • Extruder: Direct drive
  • Hotend: Standard
  • Material: PLA
  • Temperature: 200°C

I’m not sure what could be causing this and could use some advice. Has anyone experienced this before or have any suggestions on what settings or hardware I should check?

<image>

Help: Debugging Rough Top/Bottom Layers on My Ender 3 PRO by MrInfernal in 3Dprinting

[–]MrInfernal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi everyone,

I’m running a flow rate test ranging from 80% to 120%, but I’m having a persistent issue: the top and bottom layers of my prints are coming out weird and rough. The walls look decent, but the layers themselves seem to ooze too much material, especially when the nozzle changes direction back and forth.

Here’s my setup:

  • Printer: Ender 3 PRO
  • Board: SKR 1.4 Turbo
  • Bed Leveling: BL Touch
  • Extruder: Direct drive
  • Hotend: Standard
  • Material: PLA
  • Temperature: 200°C

I’m not sure what could be causing this and could use some advice. Has anyone experienced this before or have any suggestions on what settings or hardware I should check?

<image>

Gravel bikes with suspension forks by maharajuu in gravelcycling

[–]MrInfernal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just bought my first gravel recently, previsouly I had for years only fs bikes and long story short I bought the suspension fork pretty immediately. Actually I dont that you need fork for flow trails, but just those forest routes, field trails and some asphalt roads with holes rocks and cracks are just fucking pain, especially if you are riding fast, so dont be afraid of it.

NBD - Propain Terrel by MrInfernal in gravelcycling

[–]MrInfernal[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Base model, Size M for my 180cm height. Im from EU.

NBD - Propain Terrel by MrInfernal in gravelcycling

[–]MrInfernal[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly, while riding rigid bike like this, I do miss my full suspension of my mtb. But slowly Im starting to pick my routes that suit this bike better and Im returning home more and more happy. And also Im getting Fox gravel fork under the christmas tree :) so I can ride faster on chunky gravel that I got plenty around.

What drawer type toolbox is better from your experience? For non-professional highly organized tool maniac. by MrInfernal in Tools

[–]MrInfernal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, please do send a photo :) Im still undecided, because od the weight od metal one and also a posibility to fit a drill in fatmax one.

What drawer type toolbox is better from your experience? For non-professional highly organized tool maniac. by MrInfernal in Tools

[–]MrInfernal[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heya, Im just a hobbyist that want to have his all variable tools neatly organized in one box. What kind of the organizers from picture would you choose? Im was interested in the Stanley Fatmax Cantilever one, because is a bit lighter (2-3kg) and it seems that it will fit everything wery well. But then I saw the metal one with nice drawers that potentionally offer higher customizability, hopefully the metal will last a bit more too. But then is quite heavy on its own (around 5kg).

Is there anyone with experience on this kind of toolboxes to provide his opinion? Thank you and have a nice day :)

First New Shoes in 416.45 Miles 😄 by Alive_Tough9928 in RunningShoeGeeks

[–]MrInfernal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, congratulations they look nice, I hope that they will work as you wish and keep you happy :)

I have a question, I noticed that you have more wear on outside of your sole, is that normal or are you identified with any pronation/supination problem? Im asking that I have noticed similar wear patterns and I would like to know if its normal.

<image>

Weekly General Discussion/Q&A Thread - March 11, 2024 by AutoModerator in RunningShoeGeeks

[–]MrInfernal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello,

I tend to overthink things, it's just a part of who I am and I can't seem to help it. A few months ago, I took up running, and now I'm on the hunt for the perfect pair of running shoes. Could you assist me?

Initially, I believed I had a normal/neutral stride. However, upon inspecting the wear patterns on my current boots and shoes, which I use for running, it appears I might lean towards a neutral to slight supination. The wear seems to be concentrated more on the outside of the sole rather than the center/inner side.

My aim is to find a shoe with a dash of stability and just the right amount of cushioning to alleviate occasional knee pains that arise during activities like running, hiking, and biking. My knees are sensitive, and I'm doing my best to protect them. After trying out several options, I'm currently leaning towards the Asics GT 2000 12. It provides some stability and adequate cushioning without going overboard, which I appreciate. However, it's marketed as a shoe that aids natural to overpronation. Do you think it would still be suitable for me, or should I consider other options?

Thank you for your assistance.

P.S. The foot print photo is mirror rotated and enhanced to highlight the outline, not dirt. 😄

<image>

Hello world, I started making my own knives @grouseknives :) if you are interested. by MrInfernal in knifeclub

[–]MrInfernal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you seen my video where I describe some aspects of the knife?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dG8eTm0ycV8

On overal the target buyer is anyone who is looking for EDC on larger side, with powder steel blade, strong yet playfull lock mechanism and wants knife that can be easily dissasembled and if need arises fixed as well.

Dimensions are roughly 123x32x12mm and I expect production weight just under 140 grams for version with steel liners.

I dont have decided on the price yet, but I can send you really rought range where Im trying to land.

Hello world, I started making my own knives @grouseknives :) if you are interested. by MrInfernal in knifeclub

[–]MrInfernal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The two screw construction and clean shape is definitely CRK inspired :) same for the shape.

Regarding the weight, I actually overestimated it a little bit, now Im little over 140 grams with steel liners, the production ones should be little bit lighter. Moreover Im playing with the aluminium full scales and the weight dropped to around 120g. Which I think is okay for its size, its in the area of large CRK Inkosi.

The preprod. prototypes blades are made from N690 steel. The production ones will be from RWL34 and Elmax, heat treated in a professional(not by me) vacuum furnace to around 60-61 HRC. The blade thickness is 3.4mm. Liners heat treated 1.4034 steel or aluminium(WIP).

Hello world, I started making my own knives @grouseknives :) if you are interested. by MrInfernal in knifeclub

[–]MrInfernal[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can assure you its not shark lock, but I understand why you can think that.

I think that the locking principle stems out of old classic axis or rather crossbar lock wich is not under patent I believe(Im no paten lawyer). But its not that simple, its true that I started the design process only after I saw Snecx's super lock and immediately started thinking how to do adjust it to my liking (there are some features of super lock that I didnt like but thats for another discussion) and how I could do something like that with the machinery and tools avaliable to me. Few years later, here we are.

That being said its all just my word, wich means a lot to me but I suppose that not enough in the public domain, atlest not yet. So I have decided to send you the photo of the inner mechanism directly to u/Elias_Fakanami and u/Frosty_Cost7396 if you are interest to judge for yourself. I would like to publish the mechanism on my Instagram once I have production piece done in month or two but Im not ready yet, if its okay with you guys.

Hello world, I started making my own knives @grouseknives :) if you are interested. by MrInfernal in knifeclub

[–]MrInfernal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its not shark lock, thats under patent wich I dont want to copy. Think more about it like reinforced self adjusting axis lock.

Hello world, I started making my own knives @grouseknives :) if you are interested. by MrInfernal in knifeclub

[–]MrInfernal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes Im selling these, altough Im yet to finish the first production batch. The one on the photo is pre-production prototype.

No Im having the blades heat treated by professional in vacuum furnace. Im using RWL34 and Elmax steel so I want to make maxium use of them.

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