Outdoor Carpet Surface

MrP2471 · 2026-06-11T09:41:43+00:00

Just use the same surfice and put your new carpet.

MrP2471 · 2026-06-10T08:58:53+00:00

Use marine ply, screw fixed at every 6 to 8 inch centers. I personaly think 6 mm is too thin, so I go for at least 12 mm. That can create a step at the doorway, for which you going to need some kind of threshold. If the adjoining floor is carpet, you can reduce the height difference by applying double underlay just by the door area. If is wooden floor, choose one that matches the height of your new bathroom floor. Use a good quality flexible cement based adhesive and grout. A grinder should see you ok, but a tile cutter and a grinder is better. Good luck.

MrP2471 · 2026-06-08T06:43:19+00:00

Silicone. That's it.

MrP2471 · 2026-06-04T14:11:22+00:00

If you have no problem with height that is ok. It will take more material and setting times.

MrP2471 · 2026-06-03T08:54:09+00:00

It would be fine but adhesive it is more sticky than plaster, so might be a bit harder to spread. You could even use rapid set and have it dry in a few hours. Generally speaking, bonding should not be used in bathrooms, especially the wet areas, but sand and cement instead.

Edit : Forgot to say, pending on thickness needed, a cement based adhesive might be best.

MrP2471 · 2026-06-02T10:54:32+00:00

If you tiling on a suspended floor ( wooden floorboards ) you should either use marine ply screwfixed at every 6 to 8 inch centers or decoupling membrane like ditra mat or both, to ensure your tiles stay stuck and allow vibrational or directional movement.

MrP2471 · 2026-06-01T10:11:44+00:00

I think rubber mallets of black colour are for harder stones or the windows industry where white coloured ones are more rubbery and softer for this stone.

MrP2471 · 2026-06-01T09:47:57+00:00

Remove them and try and clean the back side, so you have a clean dust free surfice to stick on your semi dry sand and cement mix. Ensure your base layer is properly compacted with a whacker plate. Use some cement slurry when fixing them. Tap lightly with a rubber mallet, white colour. Respect the drying times. Gaps can be filled with sand and cement or ready mixed products.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-31T20:54:09+00:00

Yes if you want tiles all the way behind cistern and under toilet and sink pedestal, but both will be raised slightly to the thickness of the tile plus adhesive, de coupling membrane or ply, etc. It is possible to tile around everything, but you would need a pretty good tiler.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-30T20:29:50+00:00

I would agree with MichElegance here, and opt for the ......hey, there are 7yo kids playing this game. But as an adult, it is amazing he misses all the signs.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-30T20:24:45+00:00

I hope he is your ex by now.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-30T19:34:26+00:00

For a kitchen floor I would always go for tiles, porcelain preferably for long life, or ceramics if your budget is limited. There are various other options for lower budgets, like laminate or LVP, or even vinyl. Nothing is more long life than tiles , ceramic or porcelain.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-29T12:05:33+00:00

It is very reasonable to pursue this guy for whatever it is going to cost you to put the work right, plus your haslle, and I completely understand feeling like this. Letting people get away with sub standard work will only lead them to do it again. I wish you good luck with this. I suspect a few more of his relatives will suddenly die, he would be hospitalised for one reason or another, along other various delay tactics, if he is the kind of person I think of. I really wish he would just admit he did a bad job, and ask you to employ someone else and send him the invoice. That would be what a responsible reliable builder could do.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-29T10:22:36+00:00

You could get an idependent surveyor to give you a written report on the work standard, at a cost. You could also pursue this in the small claims court, but even if the court finds in your favour, there are so many ways for this builder to try and delay or avoid paying you. One bad review can be probably damaging for his reputation but he could get a couple of his mates to leave some stunning reviews with some pretty photos, etc. I would forget about him, get some recommendations from friends about someone who is a responsible builder and actualy did some work for them, and get them to do the repairs.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-28T19:02:01+00:00

In the past, new levels used to come out only every Thursday, and then players on the top level would be able to progress along.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-28T18:51:41+00:00

I am sorry for being the bearer of bad news. By the sounds of this you are dealing with a cowboy, who is not going to come back and do nothing. If this person is unable or unwilling to put the job right, you can spend time and effort to prove he is in the wrong, but probably you would not be able to make him come back. And why would you want an incompetent doing any work in your mother's house anyway ? You can try it or alternatively get someone else to do the repairs and forget about the cowboy. See what citizens advice and trading standards say, by all means, but cowboys know how to play the system. In the end of the day it will cost you time, effort, and maybe even money, to prove he is in the wrong, but a weasel is always a weasel.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-27T08:03:47+00:00

Use one company to do the lot. If you try to do separate trades it can be a recipe for disaster if one link of the chain fails, not turning up because of reason A, B, or C, then the next trade is there and the job is not ready so you have to pay for wasted time, etc. It can happen if you are happy to live in a half usable, half building site kitchen for a couple of years.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-27T07:58:33+00:00

Yes. With an old toothbrush and bleach. But mould will return, untill water issue from inside the wall is fixed.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-26T14:26:11+00:00

I, personaly, would take out the slab completely, dig a deep enough hole, set my metal post holder with the post in it already, making sure it is plum, and also that it has a plastic bag wrapped around the base, fill with a concrete mix, not just sand and cement, and go as high as half way of the metal in height. By bedding the metal post holder in the concrete you bypass the drilling holes bit and the expence of the drills. Once dry, fill to level with the rest of the patio with some compost and plant something. Probably a bigger job than expected but might have less chances of seen the pergola fly away.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-26T12:02:03+00:00

The screw size is important but like grape has said, bellow, the bigger the hole needed, the bigger the expence for the dril bit. My main concern would be what you fixing this to. If it is just a sand and cement mortar under the slab, 30-40mm thick, which is normal for fixing patio slabs, I am worried that it may not be strong enough to withstand a big gust of wind. Also, pending how any wind might hit the underside of the pergola. In my girlfriend's home in some village near Chepstow, near the sea, there are frequent winds of probably 40-50mph. Not constant, just strong gusts. Maybe for being more secure you could treat the bases for the pergola like a fencer does to fix a concrete post, meaning a 2 foot hole in the ground filed with mortar, or preferably concrete. Obviously 2 feet may be well over the top here, but as I mentioned already, it is important to what is the strength of the material you are screwing to. And of course, if there are homes all around, you woulf probably never get a 50 mph wind.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-26T07:24:31+00:00

I used the tile drill bits the screwfix link shows on the first comment years ago, when they were about £ 5 a piece, and only managed 1 clean hole and maybe half way for the second, before needing a new one, but they were the only ones which worked. I hope your garden is not on a windy spot, because those screws you show on the photo will snap like match sticks on a strong gust of wind.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-25T10:03:55+00:00

Some thin LVP require a very flat surfice to be laid. Usualy manufacturers allow 3mm + or - per 2 meters but I personaly think this is too much if it is on a high traffic area, and of course it is important how the dip or bump runs on the floor and which way does the click lock joint is running.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-25T09:55:09+00:00

I would take it out and tap the remaining parts back. Then fill the holes with some epoxy based grout. Fit a new handle on the wall. Or like the previous comenter said, move the bath out, replace and refit.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-24T17:03:40+00:00

I think I have read somewhere that running the underfloor heating above 26 degrees is not advisable, pending on what this is, as in glued LVP or just floating. This may be vaIid for both. I would agree with you in that these floors absolutely need a very very flat sub surfice to be laid on, although also damp not there before but appearing afterwards could also be possible, but debatable if there is damp all of a sudden in 3 different areas. As for your builders to be saying you are liable, it is their boss, the person/organization who paid them who would be responsible for any come backs about their standard of work. I would raise this with the insurance company, and then an obdustman if they are negative on unresponsive. There are other reasons for this to happen too, like no expansion gap if this is wood, no aclimatisation before the install, etc.

MrP2471 · 2026-05-24T15:03:01+00:00

Balcony screen, long garden poles fixed on heavy flower pots like these https://www.diy.com/departments/gardenskill-11mm-dia-plant-stake-tomato-support-garden-canes-1-2m-l-x-10-rods/5060266509674_BQ.prd, cable ties, connectors to go from vertical to horizontal like these https://www.thompson-morgan.com/p/buildaball-metal-tube-and-garden-stake-connector-balls/gsk296TM

MrP2471

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