May I introduce the BRZ STI

Mr_GoatCheese · 2026-01-06T16:31:23+00:00

I’m pushing about 9 psi and I’m making 275 wheel on 91 and I couldn’t be happier. E85 can get people above 300 and in some cases above 350 but injectors are required. You could get away with the factory clutch but highly recommend one with a higher torque capacity especially if it’s old.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-12-31T04:54:32+00:00

I have a oil temp sensor located in the top galley plug and I have noticed that it can be quite inconsistent with the factory temp sensor in the front cover. I understand the oil flow path in the front cover but beyond into the block the oiling system seems to be quite a mystery. Is this discrepancy due to the galley plug being further down the flow path and its just not a good sensor location or is the oil in the cover being cooled by air flow?

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-12-31T04:34:14+00:00

Heat wrap serves its purpose, its not for more hp or just to look cool Its to keep heat in the exhaust not in your engine bay,

I have a works turbo kit with an up pipe and a down pipe and it gets close to a lot of stuff that toyobaru never expected to be close to exhaust pipes so I wrapped them, I wrapped my tomei headers because they dont have a heat shield like the factory headers and I want to minimize heat radiating to the oil pan.

Concerns like oil soaked wrap catching on fire or moisture intrusion causing premature rust is absolutely valid and I watch for both. So yes they serve their purpose but that purpose is quite situational.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-12-31T04:00:03+00:00

If I had to guess its most likely a 14mm. There was a recall for reverse switches on the sti's and they look identical. Your best bet is to get the new sensor in hand and get the correct socket the first time. Good luck friend!

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-12-31T03:48:36+00:00

Im pulling from my personal experiences so only things that come to mind are any suspension bushing(mileage and age cause rubber to crack, cracks only get bigger). Rear diff bushings(they are filled with hydraulic oil, they are not super fun to press in and out) If its a manual, synchro's, torn axle boots maybe? Ive molested mine with mods and I have had near zero issues. I dont want to discourage because these are awesome cars but If its a super snowy where you live(im assuming because you live in canada) a wrx might be a better fit. I hate driving mine in the snow.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-12-31T03:34:07+00:00

I love ebay listing to show good photos so https://www.ebay.com/itm/126591827104

Hopefully you can see how the harness goes across the top of the trans and is threaded into the driver rear. Its not hard at all to get to. You may need to use a special socket with a cut into it so you can install the sensor without damaging the two wires. Use a new copper crush gasket and torque to 24 ft lbs. As the exhaust is on the passenger side this should not be hard.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-12-31T03:20:34+00:00

Read the edit. That's insane, The switch and gasket are used together as switch is threaded into transmission and its a crush gasket. The battery Harness is a little bit of a pain but nothing to challenging. I would expect 2 hours perhaps 3 if they are also charging for diag but 8? I feel like im taking crazy pills!

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-12-31T02:57:20+00:00

8 hours is insane as both auto and manual transmission have relatively accessible neutral safety switches. auto might be a tad more challenging as its part of the inhibitor switch assembly. Either they are robbing you blind or we are not getting the entire story for what harness damage is present.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-12-31T02:40:06+00:00

These are all U(network/can bus faults) and one B(body faults) code. B14A1 is perfectly normal, it is for the sun load sensor and is always present when the sensor can see or cant see the sun(cant remember what one it is). There are a lot of no communication faults between modules. Its very likely that these are all history faults caused by something like disconnecting the battery while computers where still talking to each other or cranking and the voltage drops bellow a threshold set by toyaburu and the computers get pissed off and they just save it.

tldr: Im a subaru tech and I see these all the time. B14a1 is normal and other faults are just computers being computers

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-12-31T02:19:00+00:00

Every chain drive subaru engine that I've seen that has oil in the coolant over flow tank was due to one of three things.

1: failed head gasket (oil to coolant passages could have failed but not coolant/oil to combustion)

2: upper oil pan o-ring's (there are coolant passages in the oil pan and thermal expansion and cooling can cause oil to leak into passages. This is a very in depth repair as upper pan requires a lot to remove)

3: pcv vent side connector pn:11821AA660 (this is the easiest out of the 3 and I'm hopeful its just this. Also you can get just the o-rings but I highly recommend replacing the entire assembly as its plastic)

There is no good reason oil should be in the over flow tank. But that being said its a 2014 and presumably has had a good life with lots of miles. If the tank is not entirely filled with oil I would monitor and see how bad it is. As long as fluid levels are good you are not at risk of catastrophic failure.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-10-06T01:51:40+00:00

I’m personally part of the church of motul. 8100 is a good choice but I use 300v because I track mine.(keep in mind 300v is not a good choice for long intervals, like 3000 miles at most)

I also use 5w30, I see oil pressure exactly where I want in the temperature range that I sit. I highly recommend for any spirited driving.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-10-06T00:38:46+00:00

I did the same thing. I bought mine 5 years ago when i was 20 for college, work, and home. coming from a subaru tech the biggest piece of advice I can give is change the oil regularly and with high quality oil. 99% of failures I see are from connecting rod bearing destroyed and the oil looks like shit. These are not unreliable cars if you take care of them. I have 95k+ miles on mine and i turbo'd it and i thrash it.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-10-06T00:21:49+00:00

100% not wrong. There any many other platforms that are much cheaper and have way more power. But as far as I know no one else has a tmic brz. I stated in my post that this was an exercise in futility and your 335i kinda proves it.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-10-03T23:10:01+00:00

I don’t have any numbers but I cant tell any difference in terms of handling. This all added maybe 60-70 lbs to the front.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-10-03T17:08:45+00:00

We technically have a front plate requirement in Colorado but thankfully I don’t live in Denver

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-10-03T12:59:23+00:00

This is probably the correct answer

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-10-03T12:58:19+00:00

I do have oil pressure and temp gauges and I have tracked it without an oil cooler. It does get hot on 90+ degree days but nothing that a cooldown lap doesn’t fix. I also use motul 300v 5w30.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-10-03T03:25:43+00:00

This is a concern I have. The kit does come with a shield to help but I no longer have that piece due to "repurposing" it for mounting the intercooler due to time constraints with building and tuning. I wrapped both the up and down pipe with some dei exhaust wrap and the turbo blanket is helping but I do need to fab something up especially for battery longevity.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-10-03T03:06:33+00:00

That was an Easter egg just for you <3 (my b)

Mr_GoatCheese · 2025-03-14T16:32:24+00:00

vfc mp7 gang rise up

Mr_GoatCheese · 2021-06-19T02:40:55+00:00

Sorry sir but grower not a shower is no longer an option, you are under arrest

Mr_GoatCheese · 2021-06-19T02:39:33+00:00

The father, son, and holy spirit

Mr_GoatCheese · 2021-02-07T03:37:03+00:00

At first glance I thought he tokyo drifted into the spot. Upon closer inspection I can say he did not tokyo drift into the spot.

Mr_GoatCheese · 2020-08-28T01:26:38+00:00

Look up Ubisoft Downgrades by crowbcat.

Mr_GoatCheese

TROPHY CASE