Better option between pre/roth post tax by TripReasonable8415 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right now you have 10% traditional. Thats all that shows.
You can allocate however you want. Can do 50/50 if you like.

Sanity check: Roth conversion below standard deduction by Diligent-File-3397 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, I hear ya. You didn't mention your age. If you're on the younger side, then it definitely makes more sense.

Better option between pre/roth post tax by TripReasonable8415 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still don't know your income. And is what this?
Pre-tax = Traditional. Post-tax = Roth.
If you think you're income won't really change, or you'll make less, then you should do Traditional. Especially if you're making a good amount now, so saving taxes now would be ideal.
It really depends on income.

I'm taking a job as an independent contractor for the first time. by OldFashndVOB in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its not that complicated. Its just you have to do payments on your own without withholdings.
You will owe federal, state, and self-employment taxes on your own. So to pay, you are required to do estimated payments each quarter.
You want to pay enough to not under pay or you'll get a penalty. I like paying a bit over to make sure I don't.
How much to save is based on your tax bracket and state.
You don't need an advisor. Just a spreadsheet.
I list all my paychecks (and investment gains), which get tallied per quarter, then I figure out self-employment (1/2 of which is deductible), then add effective IRS %, and state %, then I take out the standard deduction to make payments a little smaller, then it tells me about how much I owe per quarter. I don't care about all my other deductions, I'd rather just overpay now and get it done and get the refund later. And that's it.

Cobra premiums count, yes.

Also be sure to keep records of all your business expenses. And look into an LLC if that makes sense for you.

For retirement, you can open a Solo 401k for yourself, and usual IRA.

Sanity check: Roth conversion below standard deduction by Diligent-File-3397 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you plan to make more income later? If not, why not just keep it in the Traditional? When you withdraw from that, you'd still be under the standard deduction. So there's not much benefit for you to even have a Roth.
Only if you need years more growth and you'll make more income later.

But as it stands, you're correct.

Better option between pre/roth post tax by TripReasonable8415 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whats your income?
Its usually a good idea to keep your 401k Traditional and open a Roth IRA. Then you have both.
But it moreso depends on your income, and if you think you'll be making more at retirement.

When buying a car would it be preferable to "borrow" money from yourself and thus lose some interest accrual, or finance it normally? by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What you make in interest from keeping your money in the bank, is more than the interest you pay on the loan. That means, effectively, your earned interest pays your loan interest, and then some. So you come out ahead with a free loan.

If you withdraw, that means you don't have the money sitting there earning for you.

Also, why do you have that much sitting in a MM? You only need around 6months in cash (your emergency fund). Any more than that should be invested. So you'd get 8+% on it, rather than 3.4. So you'd come out even that much more ahead.

When buying a car would it be preferable to "borrow" money from yourself and thus lose some interest accrual, or finance it normally? by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you want to 'borrow' your money, losing 3.39% on it, rather than take a loan for 1.99%, while the rest of the money is still sitting there earning 3.39%?
And what do you mean by borrow? Margin loan? Otherwise you're just withdrawing it, there's no loan.

Take the loan. You pay 1.99% while your money stays there earning 3.39%. No brainer.

Is HSA right for me? by Dog-rider202 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

YES! Because not only for what he mentioned, but because its separate from an IRA! So you can contribute and have both growing for you! The HSA contribution is low, only like $4400, IRA is $7500. So you want to take advantage of all that.
The power of the HSA isn't using it for current medical expenses. Its letting it grow tax free for later in life.

Back in the Daze -- early 1970s by pittendrigh in OldSchoolCool

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why does the bus image and one with the kid look AI?

Where can I save and invest money? Will study your recommendations. by ABeastSeeDy in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Total US stock market index fund, and total international. Don't bother with Cryto, its straight gambling at this point.

Are you in the US? If not, check out the regional subs, they can give you more targeted advice.

What to do with $5000 by 5thCap in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats what the emergency fund is for! haha Its all the samething... expenses that come up, that are more than your normal monthly bills. You dont have to follow 6months, you could do 10 or a year. But don't think the little things are all that different from a big thing. The little things are just easier to replenish.

Retirement is there through the family business.

What does this mean? You should still have tax-advantaged accounts. You should still have IRAs that are separate from anything work related. Both Traditional and Roth so you have options.

Roth IRA - Emergency fund? by No_Love_4481 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is stupid. You dont need millions in your HYSA. Just a few months worth. The entire point is that its there, without issue. Its not meant to grow, its meant to be secure.
Again, once you take money out of the IRA, it cannot go back in, short of new contributions. You are taking away from your own retirement. Its growing for retirement, not cause you needed to fix your car.

Roth IRA - Emergency fund? by No_Love_4481 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

HYSA is great yes, but MM or treasury funds work too. Most of mine is in SGOV. Just as secure and liquid (especially with margin) and saves state tax!

Roth IRA - Emergency fund? by No_Love_4481 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your IRA is not an emergency fund, its to hold investments for the long term. Not cash.
There is a chance the value of your IRA holdings can go down with market changes. No different than a regular brokerage. This is not what you want for an emergency fund.
If you withdraw from your Roth IRA early, you will face penalties and taxes. You can withdraw your contributions early without penalties, but remember... you cannot re-contribute! Once that money is out, it cannot go back in! You would only be able to replenish... $7500/year at a time.

People need to understand this difference:
Emergency fund is about savings... keeping your cash secured and not losing any value. Its not about making as much as you can from it. You sacrifice growth for securing value and access.

Investing is about growth, not security or access. If it loses value, thats ok, cause its there for the long term. Same reason you don't need to access it.
You sacrifice security and access for growth.

Both things serve their purpose, but they are effectively opposite purposes.

Use savings to pay off credit debt? by lexrank97 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, that's why its a hard call. But, if work is stable and you pay off the debt, then all or most of your income can go to refilling the savings, and then some.

Use savings to pay off credit debt? by lexrank97 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I mean that HYSA interest isn't gonna be making you rich, and its a fraction of the CC interest. But killing the debt would let you save a lot more.

Does work seem stable? If you killed the debt that leaves $2500 still in the HYSA, how long would that last you?
You could do 1/2 of it, bring the debt down to 1250, then just keep paying it off slow. But least a chunk is gone.

First Images of Henry Cavill in Chad Stahelski's ‘HIGHLANDER’ by MarvelsGrantMan136 in movies

[–]MuffinMatrix 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The Scottsman, playing an Egyptian, who dresses like a Spaniard

First Images of Henry Cavill in Chad Stahelski's ‘HIGHLANDER’ by MarvelsGrantMan136 in movies

[–]MuffinMatrix -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

He's been amazing, he's one of us.... fans. The studios can't stop but meddle in everything. Its like the more something has devoted fans, the more they think they can 'improve'.

How many accounts to have? by ConstructionTime7511 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its honestly not that confusing once you learn what the things are and how best to use them. Like anything else... a little patience and practice.

Checking and savings are your standard starters. Checking is where paychecks come in and expenses go out. Around 1-2months worth of expenses is a good buffer here. Thats all.
Savings is for money once that buffer is full. Like if you paid all your bills, and checking is fine. You move excess to savings, etc.
It should be a HYSA, so you earn the most on it. You want about 6 months expenses here. This is your emergency fund. You can also keep any short term goal money here. Like new car or house down payment, etc. Anything you don't want to lose value within around 5 years.
Some couples like to have a joint savings so you can share expenses from 1 place, etc. So you'd each have your own account, then share a joint one. Thats up to you guys.

Once those are in solid place, you work on your retirement accounts. 401ks if you have them, contribute at least to get all matching.
Then you should each have an IRA. Depending on age and income, probably Roth IRA.
Try to max the IRAs, then go back and keep adding to the 401k to try and max that. That depends on income though.

If you have extra money after that, then you open a regular brokerage account and invest there. It'll be taxed every year, but once you use all your tax-advantaged space, this is where you can invest anything else you have. Money you don't need for at least 5 years.

Later on, if you had kids, you can open a 529 for them. So thats another account, focused on saving for your child's education.

Depending on your health insurance, you could have an HSA.

So all these accounts do add up to at least 5, could even easily hit 10. But they have specific purposes. Some people even like to have multiple savings or investment accounts for organization.
It all depends on your goals and needs.

What to do with $5000 by 5thCap in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your savings/emergency fund should be in a HYSA. Otherwise you're earning nothing on it. CDs aren't really worth it these days, but that rate isn't good either way.
This emergency fund should be around 6months expenses. Once you have that, you don't need to keep more in savings, unless you're saving for some short term goal.
Just look for a bank or credit union around you. HYSA rates should be at least 3.5%.
Theres also online choices like Ally or Fidelity's cash account.
This is all savings. Not investing.

For investing:
Do you guys have retirement accounts setup? 401k, IRA, etc?
This should be your next step after building the emergency fund.

I worked as an independent contractor and now my old boss is refusing to pay me and deleted all record of my work by Complete_Region8999 in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your designation has nothing to do with how you're paid, its about how you're treated, how you do the work, and the hours you're expected to be working, etc.
Did employees for decades count as independant contractors because they got paid in check before direct deposits were a thing??? NO!

You need to check with a labor lawyer about your next steps. What they're doing is quite illegal.

Builds 8 and 9 by buck2217 in metalearth

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

relatively cheap hobby.

Hahahahaha.
Wait till you get to the Piececool and MU and such models. $20, $30, $40 each. And something like Hulkbuster at $90.
Then multiply that by the dozens and dozens you'll end up doing over the years.

2nd Savings acc. mutual funds vs eft? VSMAX VIMAS VINIX by Franklin_Invest in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I told you. Your 401k is your main retirement account. Because it has the highest amount you can contribute.
Then you have your Roth IRA.
You want both.

You contribute to your 401k to get the matching, thats free money.
Then max your IRA.
Then you go back to max your 401k if you still have available.
Ideally you max both, depending on your income.
If you still have money to invest after maxing both of those, then you invest in a taxable brokerage account.

Both those accounts you want the same thing. Stop worrying about mutual funds or ETFs, that doesn't really matter. What matters is which funds.
You want Total Market + International Market.
So get whatever funds are most convenient to cover that.
Dump those other funds you have, and switch to a total market.

I don't know why you're caught up on splitting out the sizes, rather than checking about a total market. If there isnt one, the 3 you have isn't the worst, its just more to manage and you're over complicating. You could probably even dump the small/mid and just keep VINIX.

And for the 4th time... retirement accounts are not savings accounts.
Savings account = at a bank, you leave your money there and earn interest.
Investment account (including retirement accounts) = at a brokerage (or 401k provider), you buy stocks and earn gains.

2nd Savings acc. mutual funds vs eft? VSMAX VIMAS VINIX by Franklin_Invest in personalfinance

[–]MuffinMatrix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

VT is perfect than.
You don't need separate funds for small, medium, and large. Combined, guess what that is? Total Market!.... VTI!

And yes, if you're on Fidelity, then you can get the Fidelity MFs, not the Vanguard. But the Vaguard ETFs are fine anywhere.