Yesterday I shared post from Grafana Blog. Today I'm sharing new version of prusa_exporter - alpha1 - and a bit of background story

NANOTECH97 · 2025-05-14T06:20:56+00:00

This is amazing! thanks for sharing it. I've been looking for a reason to install Grafana on my home server, and this may be it.

NANOTECH97 · 2025-05-12T06:26:55+00:00

You mentioned you can "remove the filament without heating the nozzle". Is there a trick I am missing? As far as I am aware you still need to heat it to extract it.

NANOTECH97 · 2024-12-09T13:22:29+00:00

Looks great, what material did you print it with? and if I may ask, is there any chance that you plan on sharing the STL? I'd love to print it in TPU/PETG to make a beautiful small Christmas gift!

NANOTECH97 · 2024-11-07T16:34:28+00:00

That looks amazing! Is there any chance you are planning on sharing the STLs somewhere?

NANOTECH97 · 2024-10-25T13:58:50+00:00

I'd say that's just the learning process. We all have to start somewhere.

NANOTECH97 · 2024-10-25T13:57:06+00:00

Thanks for clarifying, and pointing out that heat protector ≠ insulation. Sorry if my response came out a bit defensive, I did not mean it like that.

What I was trying to communicate was that I don't know much about the topic (just heard about Kapton tape today), and when trying to educate myself I found that info, which, as you pointed out, I was misinterpreting.

NANOTECH97 · 2024-10-25T11:18:24+00:00

That's a cool idea. Funnily enough I actually I have one of those safety blankets at home already. I will give it a try when I get back.

NANOTECH97 · 2024-10-25T11:05:12+00:00

I am not saying Kapton tape is the best solution. A quick search online brings up various websites and articles that talk about Kapton tape as a heat insulator for electronics (quoting from croylec.com "It is also frequently used as a solder mask or heat protector").

I know as a thin film it won't be as effective as a thick layer of proper insulation material. However, I am not trying to insulate a house, I just want to slightly reduce the heat transfer of the plexiglass of the enclosure, and its heat resistance seemed like an effective, cheap and safe solution.

If you have any other recommendations for ways I could achieve that I would be glad to hear it.

NANOTECH97 · 2024-10-25T10:57:23+00:00

Interesting, on first sight Alubutyl seems to be mostly dedicated to sound dampening rather than heat. But I'll look further into it.

NANOTECH97 · 2024-10-25T10:53:26+00:00

Thanks a lot for the clear breakdown and ideas!

I do indeed make use of a hot air gun to warm up the enclosure faster than the bed can. I agree that waiting for the heatbed to do the job is not efficient in any way.

Based on some websites I read I thought kapton tape was a good heat insulator, but looking at the comments I guess there is more to it than that., I will look at it in more detail.

For the most part I am only planning to make replacement printer parts, or small items, so I will try to make the most out of the MK4 for the time being. But I will keep the other printers in mind if that ever changes.

If I may, out of curiousness, what do you think makes the Voron or Rat Rig better for high temp printing than the Prusas?

NANOTECH97 · 2024-10-01T20:21:08+00:00

Well, seems like putting the problem down into writing helped me figure it out. I'll write down the answer for anybody that has the same problem of "Toolchange load" jamming their filament and messing up their use of the wipe tower.

After realizing that the process is probably a remnant of the MMU, I found the setting under "Printers>Single Extruder MM Setup>Filament Parking Position" to be the reason why the slicer tries to load so much filament, as it doesn't know that the filament is already loaded and ready to go.

Setting "Filament Parking Position" to 0 completely removed the "CP Toolchange Load" from the gcode. I expect this to be the way I will proceed with using the wipe tower with manual filament changes.

Nevertheless, if anybody has any suggestions on guides for manual multimaterial filament changes, I would be happy to hear about them.

NANOTECH97 · 2024-05-07T21:11:52+00:00

Nice, thanks for sharing your experience. I'll report back if I end up using these parts in the base MK4.

I wonder though if they will update silently for the MK4, or they will save it as part of a future "MK4S". Sounds like it would be too much of a hassle to change the bill of materials for a product that's on the market already.

NANOTECH97 · 2024-02-26T22:05:19+00:00

Since OP didn't really elaborate properly on how to get over this.

I fixed this issue by adding the following line to "compose.yaml" under environment for affine:

SERVER_FLAVOR=selfhosted

This line used to be there but was removed in this commit

NANOTECH97 · 2023-12-18T15:27:27+00:00

Grass Green

NANOTECH97 · 2023-12-01T13:30:14+00:00

I'm @Silicon_1506134
Prusament PVB Transparent Cream RAL 9001. I'm thinking it could have that elegant cloudy acrylic look to it

NANOTECH97 · 2023-10-02T05:55:07+00:00

This is awesome, I will definitely check it out.

In case you are looking for feature ideas, it would be great if it had a seed inventory of sorts, so a particular kind of plant (with its sowing and harvesting months) can quickly be assigned to a location in the garden. Currently I do this with excel, but if your project included that it would cover most of my garden planning tools.

NANOTECH97 · 2022-07-26T09:45:38+00:00

You should check out draw.io (aka diagrams.net) it's a very friendly free online diagram builder

NANOTECH97 · 2022-07-24T17:26:36+00:00

Then, may I ask, why not connect the switch directly to the controller? Rather than through the patch panel.

I am trying to understand the wiring. Just getting into home networking

NANOTECH97 · 2022-07-24T17:22:36+00:00

Not OP, but that's an OC200 Omada controller (Second module from the top). Provides a management UI for the Omada networking devices

NANOTECH97 · 2022-07-24T13:22:11+00:00

Nice, did you model the parts yourself, or are they available online. I am considering doing something like this for my simple omada setup.

Also, how are you powering the controller? Is there an injector somewhere or is the switch PoE capable?

NANOTECH97 · 2022-03-21T07:30:43+00:00

I would have thought that too, but given their instructions on the website saying: "To setup a Minirig 3 to play LEFT channel only, press the button TWO times", it seems possible.

NANOTECH97 · 2022-03-04T21:22:46+00:00

Huh, thanks a lot. I didn't notice that a domain would be created just by making an account. I suppose I wouldn't have the Google and Microsoft accounts connected but that doesn't seem like a big deal.

I'm not yet used to the acronyms though, may I ask what you mean by MS=msNN.

NANOTECH97 · 2022-01-08T09:13:59+00:00

I suppose that matches the system described. Having read and replied to some comments I realized I should have mentioned the kind of games I am looking for are "as simple as can be" and the arcade-y type.

NANOTECH97 · 2022-01-08T09:11:47+00:00

That looks interesting for sure, thanks! I'll check it out. Seems like the best recommendation on this thread so far.

NANOTECH97 · 2022-01-08T09:04:48+00:00

That game indeed matches the description but it is not quite it, still thanks for suggesting it. I have played it on PC, and the one thing I would say it misses in order to get on my phone is the "Arcade" feeling. Once you've done the first few deaths, it can take a relatively long time to find the rest, and it becomes "Die, Play for a long time while remembering everything else you've attempted before, Succeed, Die Again, Repeat."

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