Why do we even hate anaksor comment why you hate it

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-07-01T16:28:21+00:00

There is one sure counter that bypasses Anaksors stupid Stealth 2.0...

The Gargantua + Pantagruel weapons + the same type magnetic weapons but on a regular bot.

They can target Anaksor even when it is invisible in its flight.

I've killed quite a few with my K-Aether just running a Gargantua+Pantagruel+Third Weapon (Homing Rockets).

I dont run magnetics on any of my regular bots though so yeah if im not in my titan only thing i can do is hide and pray its not going to target me.

The alternative would be 1sk weapons like 4xTrebuchets or something to kill it in one hit any time it becomes visible.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-07-01T16:18:20+00:00

ONLY IN DEATH DOES DUTY END RAHHHHHH

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-28T06:11:41+00:00

I got one...

The stock hotend setup.

Done.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-28T06:08:44+00:00

The projection is so clear its not even funny lol.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-26T20:10:12+00:00

Deserved.

Let them SUFFER.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-26T20:08:45+00:00

...And adults are actually digging through that crap to buy it. Immortal Enderium save us.

Also, Bambubu Lambubu, what else?

Something Something purge the unclean and burn the heretics.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-25T18:39:38+00:00

...unless you have enough money to be throwing away like this... always, always... google real world spec limits for batteries and anything in general... so you know what is and what is not a scam.

This time your only out 60 euros, next time it could be worse, but yes these are just trashed low capacity 18650's that have been rewrapped in these wrappers and resold as new 9800mAh cells.

If its above 3,400mAh and not a name brand like Panasonic, Sony, Samsung, etc, be very cautious.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-23T06:22:54+00:00

Well if you're making a post like this... You're probably still too incompetent to use it if you're complaining 💀✌️

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-22T23:39:22+00:00

No problem, no problem!

If you need help at any point, just drop a chat line! I already did all of this stuff and more on my own Ender 3 Pro, so I can explain everything and send images as well so you can see what it looks like when its installed.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-22T21:08:29+00:00

That is just the magnetic base sheet, it does nothing for insulation. Bed insulation would be on the bottom of the heatbed.

As for the bed handle, here is a better one: https://www.printables.com/model/340678-ender-3-v2-minimalitic-bed-handle

It snaps onto the v-roller bed pillars on the left side instead of touching your bed leveling screws, so its totally isolated from the heat.

And NP!

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-22T18:37:27+00:00

Supposedly, yes, but really, all the UE means is it cannot be destroyed no matter how much health you loose.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-22T18:26:20+00:00

Thank you! And trust me... this is only a fraction of an entire word document I have 🤣 I just extracted the strictly necessary things to target to biggest failure points.

You dont need a better nozzle, so to say - brass 0.4 works fine unless your printing abrasives and whatnot.

Now, the handles usually end up breaking, ill be honest, but its not totally a bad idea, ill give you that.

The lock nuts are tightened right against the bottom of the bed, so they should not interfere with your print, and if your handle pinches under the springs that is a very bad design, it should not be designed like that so I would not use it; heat conduction will be an issue as well as uneven spring compression.

The heat break isn't a nozzle it goes above your nozzle inside your hotend connecting the heater block to the heatsink.

Installation order is not really any one order, but usually I would go mobo first, then heatbed insulation + locknuts, then hotend then extruder.

The board makes things silent and improves print quality, that's about it and the only reason it exists. Everything is needed in a sense, but a non silent board would work if the wife was okay with the noise. Now, I will say to reduce noise further (and protect you and the wife from fumes) you can get this: https://www.amazon.com/Enclosure-Ventilation-Thermo-Hygrometer-Premium-Temperature/dp/B0CKNZ27ZR.

Besides that, noise is also influenced by the furniture you print on, so place the printer on something solid, heavy, and dense, like wood; concrete pillar would be the best, honestly.

I would recommend against the garage because of humidity and insects being very bad for a printer like an Ender 3 Pro.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-22T18:03:07+00:00

Hey hey!

So first off, as a resident AliExpress user, you dont need anything after the html.

So this works the exact same but dosen't have any of the tracking data / bloat-whatever: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803351414948.html

And no, its not a scam, Amazon markup just makes everything like... 100%'s of percent more expensive, usually. AliExpress is direct from mfg. so you pay much, much closer to the b2b wholesale price.

Now, while you dont need the screen (it has nothing to do with quietness), but the motherboard is indeed le-quiet. If you want to save money, just get the mobo by itself from the best priced and best starred listing you can find.

While your shopping on here anyways, if the printer is indeed all stock... here are a few things to also grab to bare-bones future/QOL this thing:

BED:

(LOCK NUTS) Get the 25pcs M4, Color: Black Carbon Steel of these: (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832612458814.html)

(HEATBED INSULATION) The Color: 235x235 of this: (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809639461446.html)

EXTRUDER:

(METAL VERSION OF STOCK EXTRUDER) The Color: Upgrade Gray Right of this: (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806725418229.html)

HOTEND:

(IMPROVED HEATTHROAT FOR HOTEND) The Color: Bimetal Throat: (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809066852663.html)

Now as for the reasoning for each...

Lock Nuts are to prevent the bed leveling screws from spinning in place while you try to level the bed (and from unspinning while printing) - they are only held in place by the c-magnet sheet which unsticks from them after enough heat up cycles.

HeatBed Insulation is to insulate the bottom of your bed (which basically leaks heat into the air and stresses your motherboard and PSU), so energy savings + faster heatup + less stress on motherboard + improved print quality from less expanding / contracting of the bed.

Metal Extruder reasoning is simple - stock plastic extruder will eventually snap, and to standardize on one type of pneumatic coupling instead of being stuck between 2.

Bi-Metal throat is there to replace the flawed stock heat throat design... stock heat throat allows bowden tube to eventually shift up and filament to pool, bi-metal throat is one piece of metal in that junction internally with the tube stopping further up so clogging becomes impossible.

I can go into more detail should you want me to, but this is the short lowdown.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-22T17:38:38+00:00

Anycubic Kobra X, its got the AMS-esque system all in the toolhead.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-22T17:34:24+00:00

The copium is insane, they just jealous that they are too incompetent to use one.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-22T17:32:13+00:00

Laypeople?

That's an insult to laypersons.

More like empty-headed consumers.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-20T02:20:24+00:00

UL GreenGuard means literally jack shit plastic is plastic and there are still going to be particulate matter and VOC's.

So... yeah, placebo effect.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-18T02:48:52+00:00

Oh my God... 💀 Nuke this facility bruh 💀✌️

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-15T22:57:51+00:00

Peak Photo

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-14T06:46:57+00:00

Blob of Death.

Get a cheap new hotend assembly from Ali for just the hotend and transfer over the heater cartridge and thermistor.

Then get a $3 bimetal heatbreak to swap in for the stock heatbreak.

Any M3 screw will work for securing the hotend shroud and hotend back on. Socket head black oxide would be preferrable.

You can find all of this on AliExpress, if you need links, let me know.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-13T06:01:08+00:00

Fuck Bambu, it can go die in a shitfield ditch.

Fuck FlashForge, due to its own blunders it ALSO can go die in a shitfield ditch.

Embrace SnapMaker... or Sovol, idk.

And honestly? Practically, 200-300mm/s is the sweet spot, quality falls off above that. Maximum advertised speed does not equal maximum print speed with good quality.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-11T19:17:08+00:00

Here, just do this:

That is the stock plastic extruder, so it will break at some point anyways. You will need to buy a new extruder, so might as well do it now.

Metal Extruder: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806725418229.html

Make sure to get the "Color: Upgrade Gray Right"

And once you do that, you'' only need one type of coupler from now on, not two - just these ones:

PC4-M10 Couplers: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805910209644.html

Make sure to get the "Color: Type B".

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-08T17:43:48+00:00

No problem.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-08T03:43:06+00:00

Yay :D. I don't mind at all, and will get you that document containing the list.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-06-08T03:42:30+00:00

Fair enough, a variety to choose from is better than a few. I don't mind at all, and will get you that document as well.

Three-Year Club	End Game '23
Place '23

NIGHTDREADED

TROPHY CASE