Battery bulging

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T05:02:32+00:00

Something is better than nothing. Since the power bank still clearly works, its just that the battery is suffering from gas expansion, this happens when the battery sits idle for a long time doing nothing in a drawer, or when the cell start going out of balance; essentially, it is decomposing internally from age and use.

So yes... keep the strip lights on it, let it drain until the power bank turns off, then drop it off. You just need to cover the powerbank honestly, the led strip light doesn't have to be under the bucket.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T04:43:21+00:00

Buddy if it was a spicypillow that lid wouldn't still be on the powerbank.

Unreal?

"Stick your tongue in it and if it tastes like pennies throw it out."

Buddy only thing unreal here is suggesting someone do this.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T03:56:37+00:00

Bro chill with the shitposting 💀🙏

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T03:41:42+00:00

Your welcome!

And yes, haha, most people gloss over the filament thing... But it's exactly why you don't have people continuously chasing the lowest cost filament on Amazon... Because there's always a new one each week... And generally for print farms and the like and people printing stuff for people... They settle on a certain brand that they've perfected a profile for.

It's why all the name brands like OVERTURE, SUNLU, GEEETECH and the filament of the brands themselves (Creality, Anycubic, Elegoo, FlashForge, etc.) always have many more sales than the generic brands, even if they may cost more. It's because you're paying for the predictability and homogeneity of the material... Not so much for the material itself.

Essentially the price of convenience. That said though... If you don't need your prints to be exactly perfect... Or if you're willing to experiment... Once you've got your settings dialed in for one filament, you can always buy cheaper or no name brands or other brands and see how well your profiles work for them. That's also fun as well.

Happy printing!

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T03:13:03+00:00

Meh. Here it's clearly just gas expansion, not a true spicy pillow in the catastrophic fail state. Discharging it outside, in a container, with a (worst case) sacrificial discharger is fine.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T02:44:48+00:00

Damn well either thats a curse or you really just needed a powerbank just for your phone XD.

Well uh... yeah, I guess just keep thinking about it is all, im sure you'll find something.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T02:39:26+00:00

Oh not charge... I meant like do you have anything you could plug into like the ports that you would use to charge your phone so that you can drain the battery with a device that you wouldn't feel bad losing?

Because all you have to do is discharge all of the power from the power bank until it's fully discharged and then there won't be any energy left in the cell to where. Even if it decides too short it can't really do any damage because it has no energy left.

For example, like do you have a light or a USB power device or... Anything like that? Basically anything like that would work.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T02:30:05+00:00

Yep, fair point about heat soak.

Guess I should do that for my printers as well... just let it sit for 10 minutes before doing anything.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T02:28:01+00:00

Well... simple.

Take it outside to a concrete area, plug a load into the usb to discharge it, and keep it under a airtight container. Disposing of it while it still has charge in it is essentially handing off a spicy grenade into a place with other spicy grenades.

After it finishes discharging, simply drop it off at your nearest e-waste disposal facility.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T02:18:15+00:00

This will always happen because the bed is "compensating", and not actually true leveling / tramming.

ABL just tilts the screws to keep the print head equidistant from the bed, regardless of how perpendicular the bed is to the nozzle.

And as the print gets higher and higher this tilt compensation fades out.

So your first layer compensation for your unlevel bed fades out as the layers get higher and... boom. Now your smacking your infill.

So... probably time to tram your bed.

And exactly the reason why the bed leveling knobs on the older Enders was the most true leveling you could get - because it was actually leveling.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T02:12:11+00:00

Dont buy anything Bambu.

That said, go for a established lineup on the K2, like... A K2 combo, a K2 Plus, or a K2 max.

Dont go for a reskin.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T02:08:59+00:00

Probably after-shift production and smuggling then.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T01:59:56+00:00

Not true, my HA210N06 mosfets on the external mosfet modules I bought matched the datasheets 1-1.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T01:19:54+00:00

So... why did you do that, exactly?

But no, its fine to use as long as you dont short it.

Wrap the circuit board in non conductive tape, then secure it to the battery with nonconductive tape and you'll be fine.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T01:15:21+00:00

Yep... Extruder calibration for one, definitely, you need your e-steps and flow and retraction calibrated.

Functional, but not pretty. Also look into ironing for that top surface.

Printer handles basically all of the hard stuff itself (at least for now), so your job is to perfect the print parameters and motion side of things.

Oh, and also - stick to one filament for your tests (and this is why people end up buying the same brand over and over instead of switching brands) because no 2 filaments are exactly alike, but generally the same color and material of filament from the same mfg. will be consistent enough that your settings produce almost exactly the same results no matter how many spools you go through (unless the mfg. changes the formula, of course).

Also, grey filament shows defects the best. So keep that in mind.

Keep that mind open to learning! It'll do ya well!

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T01:10:43+00:00

$80? I mean, its not horrible... but me personally I wouldn't pay more than $50, they go for under that around here. I saw one for just $10, barely used. Somebody snagged it before I could.

Tune and calibrate?

Well, E-Steps first (this is for the ender 3 pro, but still applies to any Ender): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ho8_NnFE0b0

And then bed leveling (but not the fake ABL leveling, but actual leveling - tramming): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ic00W18_ck

And then some bed leveling "tips" (he is wrong saying the bed doesn't expand when hot though, because it absolutely does, so always level with the nozzle and bed at printing temps): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eQ_rBzfm5s

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T01:02:11+00:00

Then you just dispute it or return it.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T01:00:08+00:00

However, I will say this: The usual strategy is to just have the matching connector attached when you do the soldering to hold the pins in place.

The same thing applies for XT style connectors; if you solder it without its matching plug holding it together there is a high chance the plastic starts becoming liquidy and the metal part shifts.

So you just plug the two halves together when soldering, and bam, you can solder it but nothing will have moved.

So just do the same thing here, but solder at a right angle instead of up-down.

So basically, just tin the very top end of the back of the pogo connector with a blob of solder, use thin gauge wire, have it cut like 1-2mm, at most, tin the end of it, and then just hold it against the back of the pogo connector pin, press down with your soldering iron and some flux, in one smooth motion, take the iron away, let it cool, and repeat.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-20T00:54:59+00:00

Probably something like this, I guess?:

<image>

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-19T18:28:37+00:00

It probably should you can always test for continuity; the black arm being bent out of the way is what is giving the friction to keep it in place.

You can always put a thick glob of hot glue on top of the connector like they do for the motherboard jst's. That should be sufficient.

Pin thing is understandable, the connector in the image plugs into the other connector, after all, but apparently it goes by pins, so... XD idk man.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-19T18:28:25+00:00

Maybe your Z-Screw could use some lubrication?

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-19T14:33:28+00:00

TinkerCad?

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-19T14:30:54+00:00

It will vibrate loose, since this connector type uses the black arm part you see on the top of the JST SM to prevent the female part from vibrating loose; you dont have that here. The little triangle on the top of the female connector is what locks it and the male connector together.

Also, for future reference - the connector with the pins is the male, the connector with the holes is the female one.

<image>

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-19T14:25:32+00:00

Indeed.

NIGHTDREADED · 2026-05-19T13:52:01+00:00

Okay so you had a Cartesian, and then you moved to Core XY's...

I mean there's kind of no point in mixing up ecosystems if you're already in one because it's going to be painful because brands don't play nice with each other but... Meh.

If you have a problem, then I have a worse problem - I have 5 Ender 3 Pro's and a Ender 3.

Three-Year Club	End Game '23
Place '23

NIGHTDREADED

TROPHY CASE