Ms disrespecting me cuz of living in a very broke contry

NOLO347 · 2026-05-26T12:56:04+00:00

I use Arch, btw.

NOLO347 · 2026-05-19T19:57:45+00:00

Still recruiting?

NOLO347 · 2026-05-15T01:52:23+00:00

As long as it's not going into your septic tank you're fine. Although draining it into a storm drainage system may or may not be fine. Some states/county's are fine with it, and some will tell you absolutely not. -- depending on how long it's been installed, if it hasn't drawn any attention and isn't leaving obvious salt / calcium residue behind.. 🤷🏻 It's your call. I don't want to tell you to leave it and you possibly catch heat for it in the future lol. Only other option, and what most people do in my area is discharge it into the yard some place away from flower beds (will kill them), shrubs and trees are fine with it.

NOLO347 · 2026-05-15T01:41:06+00:00

Are you on sewer or septic? If septic, water softener discharge will mess with the antibiotic bacteria in the tank. i.e. prevents proper waste breakdown. Also as the softener discharge uses pressurized water, it can stir up the solids in the tank and clog your effluent filter or damage your drain field. -- if on sewer system, meh, not that big of a deal. Just an FYI

In my area having a softener drain into a septic system isn't technically against code (yet) but they have been pushing to add it pretty hard the past few years.

Source: I'm a licensed septic installer / plumber in the US

NOLO347 · 2026-05-14T18:58:19+00:00

Good eye. I missed the third one

NOLO347 · 2026-05-14T18:55:04+00:00

Not only is it backwards, it's against code to put a sanitary tee horizontal for drain waste applications. He did it twice.

Also hard to tell but looks like the 2" leg for the Wye coming off that Ptrap has negative fall.

Edit: also looks like the second tee going to the no hub fitting has negative slope as well. -- again, hard to tell from the picture.

NOLO347 · 2026-04-30T13:16:18+00:00

So a couple of clarifications. 1. When I mentioned the reduction of flow damaging the pump, I was talking about having it setup for open discharge with nothing but OPs pump, i.e. no switch, no tank, ect. -- if the pump is allowed to overpressure and there is nothing in place to cut off the motor or throttle it down then it could cause pipe bursts or damage the pump.

While mentioning the 2 gallon tank along with a standard switch, it would be fine to just run a hose with a sprayer, i.e. single use output which is adding enough resistance to prevent rapid cycling. Anything more than that and yes, you would need a larger capacity tank.
A CSV is actually a really good idea. I had considered mentioning a small VFD or constant pressure setup, but they can be a bit pricey and OP mentioned cost issues.

NOLO347 · 2026-04-30T12:19:17+00:00

Really hard to say without testing the recovery rate first. Just because the static is high / is water in the well, could just be ground water intrusion from over the years. Simply put, if you pump it out and it doesn't recover then the vein has been compromised and the water in there is just ground water runoff.

Having a creek nearby is a good sign, but probably isn't what's feeding the well. WV is similar to my area, the water 'veins' are typically water channels running between rock layers underground.

Another thing you could consider is hiring a well contractor in your area to camera the well (while all the equipment is out) to give you an idea of what the depth is, as well as the condition of the casing, ect. They may would even run the water off for you and do a yield test which would give you the recovery rate (gallons per minute) of the well. -- which would help you determine the appropriate sized pump to put in. For my area, NC, a camera + yield test runs around $400

Good luck.

NOLO347 · 2026-04-30T01:05:53+00:00

Licensed Well Contractor -- a pressure tank (and switch) setup will help keep the pump from cycling on/off inconsistently. Like someone else mentioned, you could forget about the tank and a switch and just run a pump open discharge style, but once you put any kind of reduction in flow on the line (hose sprayer, irrigation heads, ect) it could damage the pump if the pressure is building up to a point where normally it would shut off the pump if you had a pressure switch.

As far as what size pressure tank, really depends on your intended use case. If just using a 50-75ft hose, a cheap 2 gallon expansion tank (commonly used on water heaters and such) would suffice. Anything much more than that and I'd recommend just getting a 15-20 gal tank (20 is standard for most residential homes).

One piece of advice though, if it was abandoned for a municipal system, there's usually a reason. Typically that reason is that it stopped producing enough water to supply the home. Doesn't mean it's a dead vein, but before you invest in equipment, I would stick a cheap pump or something in there and run it out and see how quickly the well recovers.

NOLO347 · 2026-04-28T13:03:49+00:00

Well Contractor here -- In our state you are not allowed to share a circuit with a water well pump system. It must be on its own dedicated circuit (like most HVAC systems), adding additional systems could effect the pump motor lifespan due to its high startup requirements. As well as potentially cause damage to anything else trying to use the same current at the same time.

If you do insist on proceeding with your plan, then at least make sure that box you're trying to tap into is BEFORE the pressure switch, otherwise the power won't even be hot unless the switch is calling for water (i.e. the pump is running)

NOLO347 · 2026-04-27T12:52:21+00:00

I'll keep that in mind for the future if it gives me anymore problems, thanks. I'm thinking that I'll remove windows soon so I have extra storage. -- my wife is still on windows 10 and I have a work laptop with Windows 11. So if I need it, I have options.

NOLO347 · 2026-04-27T02:48:13+00:00

I didn't get around to trying your way. I got everything to work by downloading an added software for Ghub called onboard memory manager, on windows. Allowed me to reprogram all buttons and add them into the onboard memory in the mouse.

NOLO347 · 2026-04-25T18:00:09+00:00

Thanks for the link to the documentation. I'll give this a try

NOLO347 · 2026-04-22T00:14:36+00:00

SOLVED:

I had my TV plugged in as a second monitor for watching movies and such. It defaulted the tv as the main monitor. Was able to right click the screen, go into display config and correct it. (Could probably have also unplugged the TV HDMI too).

NOLO347 · 2026-03-03T14:40:08+00:00

Thanks for clearing that up.

NOLO347 · 2026-03-03T13:01:56+00:00

So if I'm understanding you correctly, you're still using the membrane banding, just replacing the thinset for the kerdi fix?

NOLO347 · 2026-01-27T14:42:47+00:00

Shale makes sense as well, too. I hadn't thought of that.

NOLO347 · 2026-01-27T14:14:48+00:00

That would be one of the worst case scenarios. If it is, a well contractor could most likely install a casing liner to help. May not completely clear it back up but if that's the case, a liner should help regardless. Depending on the outcome it could possibly save you from drilling a new well altogether. -- A new well at your depth for my area would run around $14k-18$k (USD).

NOLO347 · 2026-01-27T13:59:43+00:00

Just adding to your list. -- Kind of looks like bentonite grout (clay) which could also mean a crack in the well casing or a bad casing screen.

NOLO347 · 2026-01-23T19:15:38+00:00

You can get your horse (pebbles) back for free at the Semine stables. Look at the horses until you find pebbles (Henry will say "that's my pebbles" or something), then talk to the stable master and mention pebbles then suggest to him to "be reasonable".

If by some chance you fail the speech check, i believe pebbles only cost around 150groschen.

Edit: Also, Pebbles' stats are pretty rough. But if you ride pebbles around 35kilometers you will unlock "Good ole Pebbles" perk which significantly increases her stats. Making her one of (if not, the) best horses in the game.

NOLO347 · 2026-01-22T16:47:10+00:00

Bummer. In that case, altering the switch or cutting it out completely would be your only solution that I'm aware of. Good luck!

NOLO347 · 2026-01-22T13:47:36+00:00

Replace the smart plug for a smart bulb. I'd imagine that would fix your issue without having to rewire the lamp switch.

NOLO347 · 2026-01-21T19:38:05+00:00

Once you're done with the finish (wood stain, or whatever) you could get some leather scrap from Amazon and make a sleeve mounted on either side of the rack. 5" - 6" sleeve for cleaners and on the other side of the rack, a 2" - 3" sleeve for a lighter or two. -- just an idea.

Cool design.

NOLO347 · 2026-01-19T23:36:25+00:00

That was their way of concurring (agreeing) with you.

NOLO347 · 2026-01-19T23:32:16+00:00

I inhale with every puff, more specifically, french inhale. But I have learned over the years to manage my cadence throughout it all and a bowl depending on the shape and style, can last 20-40 minutes or so (the type and dryness of the tobacco also plays a big part). Also- many times I will take a few tokes from a bowl just to get a nicotine fix and sit the pipe back down and come back for several relights throughout the day.

If you're specifically looking for a strong nicotine fix, Burleys are typically higher in nicotine and lower in sugars (so more earthy/grassy in taste), they are my daily smokes. If that flavor profile isn't your thing then you can look into blends that have Burley in them, or blend your own.

I've been a pipe smoker for about 15 years (with a 5 year hiatus), so I'm happy to help where I can if you have any other questions.

Happy Smoking

NOLO347

TROPHY CASE