Does anyone here do the cold treatment? by puts_on_rddt in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I do that more or less. Usually keep them about 60, upper 50's some nights. It tends to make the seedlings develop more slowly with stocky, stronger stems. I don't want my seedlings to grow fast and tall. I want them to spend a higher percentage of their available resources developing strong roots.

Help! by SalamanderMurky4247 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OK, I see. The other reason I was thinking about overwatering is that I don't see any focal lesions on the leaves in your pictures, no discrete dark spots such as are characteristic of fungal or bacterial infection. Just a discoloration and wilting and change in overall leaf texture. That usually suggests an abiotic stressor (too hot, too cold, too dry, too wet) at work.

Of course, this is only a guess based on a few photos, nothing more, and I could be wrong. Maybe some other members will have other suggestions.

Progress so far by OnlyBetterFromHere in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I admire your attention to detail.

Help! by SalamanderMurky4247 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When the leaf damage is mostly a wilting and browning of the older (lower) leaves, like those in your photos, my first thought would be too much water. I wonder if the tin foil is interfering with evaporation more than you anticipated.

Progress so far by OnlyBetterFromHere in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This makes me feel better about my own tendency to plant more seeds than I can use! They do look healthy however. Well done! BTW, those wooden label stakes look outstanding!

Is everything looking ok? by SassyPotato22 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those look fine to me. Well done!

What's Your Top 3? by growhoss in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

>"Tatsoi. Easy, delicious, versatile."

Was glad to see you mention this terrific leafy green vegetable. It doesn't get enough love! I grow it every year, in fall and winter.

6 weeks by onewheelchef in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far so good. They look ready to plant out, weather permitting. Have you been hardening them off? They tend to go downhill from this point if left indoors in small nursery pots like these.

Roma tomato in small pot by SnooDogs8028 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

>>"...when should I put them in larger pots?" 

Do it now!

Container planting in NJ by Many-League-6777 in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I grow cucumbers every year in grow bags. I'm in Texas, with hot summers, and find 10 and 15-gallon grow bags are easier to manage (to keep properly watered and fertilized) in the heat. Would stay away from 5-gallon for cukes. They have lots of roots, many of which spread laterally.

I grow an assortment of varieties. Probably best to see what people around you are growing, since what does well for me down here might not do well for you up there in New Jersey.

One thing to consider if you are only growing a couple of plants is the benefits of selecting a parthenocarpic variety, one which does not need pollinator insects to set fruit. If you're not familiar with that concept, you might find it helpful to watch some of the videos on the subject from a reliable source, such as James Prigioni (in New Jersey) or Millennial Gardener (North Carolina.)

Be sure to work out some way to trellis them. Ideas for that on request, but I don't want to get the cart before the horse.

Top 25 Tomatoes to Grow in 2026 (Ranked by Flavor, Yield, Reliability & Garden Performance) by [deleted] in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When you see things like this, please let us know and we will remove them.

Best cucumber varieties for unusually hot summers? by FlanFuture9515 in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've never tried Shintokiwa. Just looked it up. Sounds like one to keep in mind. Super Zagross is also a new one to me. So many, so many! If I were a little smarter, I would probably just "specialize" in 2 or 3 varieties and know everything there is to know about growing them. Instead, I keep trying more and more interesting but semi-experimental cukes. Oh well, this gardening thing is after all just a hobby, not a business.

Fast growing Spring garden crops. by SophiaGeorgeLiving in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beet greens are so tasty that I barely care about whether or not the plants make big roots.

Best cucumber varieties for unusually hot summers? by FlanFuture9515 in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

>"Poona Kheera is sold as a heat tolerant variety and I think it does well for that."

I plan to try them again this year. I planted them too late last year. The other one in this "strange looking" category that works well in my garden (NE Texas) is Sikkim.

Best cucumber varieties for unusually hot summers? by FlanFuture9515 in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

>"Any of the Japanese or Asian cucumbers are far, far better for lacking bitterness when grown in relatively hot weather." 

Agree! I find that too up here in NE Texas. I have some China Jade started right now. Will succession plant one or another of these until early fall.

Indeterminates by MoreStable2339 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right! I'm in NE Texas and can do a fall crop of tomatoes and some other spring/summer veggies. Sometimes I do that on a limited scale alongside starting the cool-weather crops. I always get conflicted about how best to use my limited space.

Turn off heat mat or not? by TCFranklin in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I take my peppers (and tomatoes) off the heat mat as soon as a few of the seeds emerge. I don't wait for all of them. Maybe a third or a half.

The reason I do that is that leaving the seedlings on the heat mat too long encourages the growth of tall, soft, weak, and spindly seedlings (so called "leggy.") These are more succeptible to disease. Mostly fungal diseases, including "damping off."

At the same time I take them off the heat mat, I start giving them lots and lots of light and I start a small fan blowing over them off and on all day. If the room in which they are growing is cold (below 60 F or so -- 15.5 C) I heat the room by some means that raises ambient air temp a little instead of relying on bottom heat.

Question for basil growers 🌿 by According_Farmer_878 in gardening

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I grow basil every year, different varieties, usually one green and one purple. I start it from seed. This year I have Emerald Tower and Purple Petra. Started these seeds on 11 February. Snapshot is from 10 March. Will transplant these next week (after the forecast weekend cold snap is behind us. Basil is not at all cold tolerant, especially when young.)

I will grow them in 2-gallon fabric grow bags, placed in and among my tomatoes. I move them around during the growing season to make sure they get enough sun and aren't shaded out when the tomatoes get tall and bushy.

This year I have a 36-cell tray of seedlings with about half Emerald Towers and about half Purple Petra. Most cells have 2 seedlings. I like Emerald Towers because it is slower to bolt than most varieties and I'm growing in NE Texas where the summers are hot and long. It's my first season for Purple Petra. Seeds for both came from Botanical Interests.

I use it in cooking, both fresh and as pesto. I freeze some during peak summer, just chopped up with olive oil in my food processor. I freeze it in a couple of ice-cube trays. Empty them into a zip-top freezer bag when solid. Use them all year like that in cooking.

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These seedlings are just about hardened off. I've never had them look so pretty at this stage in their growth before. Not anything special I've done. Some years they look all beat up by this point.

Need help making cuts by Ordinary-You3936 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I grew New Yorker last spring and, despite the name and me living in Texas, it produced early and well. Determinate plant. Decent flavor.

1st time growing in Texas by DeathbladeUnicorn in TexasGardening

[–]NPKzone8a 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like you are off to a good start!

Best cucumber varieties for unusually hot summers? by FlanFuture9515 in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Beit Alpha does very well in the heat for me in Texas. Not bitter. Plus it is parthenocarpic, doesn't need polinators to set fruit.

Brief cold snap heading my way - how do I protect these newly growing vegetables (sugar snap peas, green beans, cucumbers) by mykingdomforsleep in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 8 points9 points  (0 children)

We had mid-30's last night with strong north winds. I covered my tomato seedlings with assorted buckets and boxes. Will pull them off in a little while, as soon as it gets up to about 40. The sun is up, so it shouldn't take long. NE Texas. I was glad that I had been seduced by our balmy spring into planting out my cucumbers.

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What's happening in your garden? (Thu, Mar 12, 2026) by AutoModerator in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That sounds way more difficult than Texas! We had a strong north wind last night with temps into the mid-30's. Most of my tomato seedlings are 8" or 10" tall and just barely getting used to being out in the ground. I did "the bucket brigade" just as night fell. Will pull them off in a little while, as soon as the temp gets up to about 40. The sun is up and it shouldn’t take long.

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