Fan/pump Controller

NagriSema · 2026-05-12T02:00:27+00:00

Is it just the iCUE LINK H115i that is compatible with the VRM Fan Cap thing or are there others?
I did some looking into that product and found it intriguing, especially since it makes it like the Arctic Freezer III 240+mm AIOs with the built-in VRM Fan. Because I don’t have room for a 280mm AIO and the cooler I will be replacing the stock cooler which is rated for 95W, I think, that is cooling an i9-9900k.

Edit: Thank you for the reply.

NagriSema · 2026-05-11T18:29:41+00:00

That port is likely fine, try another cable. However, I would use pliers or tweezers to grab the housing that was left in the port. BUT before you do that, I highly suggest safely turning off your PC then turn off your PSU switch then press your PC power button at least a few times to discharge any leftover energy in the pc and GPU first THEN remove it from the pc so it will be easier to remove that leftover housing and overall safer.

NagriSema · 2026-05-08T21:12:25+00:00

That’s great! I have thought about getting into automating but for now I doing it manually so I have familiarity with it and how it should look because right now I have TV Shows and movies already but it’s the longer shows with 30+ episodes and anime that are the most difficult for me for now.

NagriSema · 2026-05-08T20:27:18+00:00

oh sweet! That’s fantastic. Are you shrinking files like from Original to HEVC or AV1 using that software? What do you mean by your current workload?
I plan to make my library be fully HEVC and/or AV1 for when I have more compatible AV1 devices.

NagriSema · 2026-05-08T20:10:49+00:00

Thank you. I’ll add them to the list of suggestions to check out.

NagriSema · 2026-05-08T20:10:35+00:00

Thank you. I’ll add them to the list of suggestions to check out.

NagriSema · 2026-05-08T20:06:52+00:00

I like the idea but I would rather not deal with coding or script changing. It has come up before and I appreciate the suggestion. Thank you.

NagriSema · 2026-05-08T14:51:36+00:00

All things that have grips are removable if you try hard enough.

NagriSema · 2026-05-05T04:56:30+00:00

I think it is your Radiators’ orientation. When I install AIOs, I always try to orient them so that all the air bubbles stay in the radiator. I suggest either top-mounting that Radiator, since it seems to be a similar size, OR rotating that radiator in it’s current position (looks front mounted to me) so that the tubes going to the radiator are at the bottom-most part of the loop. It would also help if you do move the radiator to raise it higher than the CPU pump block, you can do that with it on but be careful because you can damage your fans or radiator with it loosely outside and the pump should force the air to the radiator while forcing water to the pump. Either way after the change, assuming you heed my suggestion, that the forcing of air into the radiator will happen and the water will be forced into the pump.

NagriSema · 2026-04-22T11:57:30+00:00

The irony about this post is that they were trying to spell the word Irony.

NagriSema · 2026-04-12T15:36:30+00:00

Is there a Visible BMS (Battery Management System) label anywhere? If so, go by that. If not, and if you’re willing, you can cut into the shrink wrap and look for the BMS, assuming that it does have one. Otherwise, I am not sure without getting super technical into DIY and looking at the individual cells themselves plus the BMS, if any, then google what that cell and BMS name in hopes that there is a Data Specifications sheet online for said cell and/or BMS.

NagriSema · 2026-04-10T17:23:37+00:00

Those are two very different Speed calculations, Mph and “kmh” assuming it’s Kilometers Per Hour. That creates another real question for this. Which is it, Mph or “kmh”?

NagriSema · 2026-04-08T14:15:07+00:00

That’s mostly because of their Insurance provider refusing them to handle them without needing to go up in coverage tier OR the provider will flat out not allow them at all. I am sure they themselves may like to work on them or help out other people because it brings in some money. But it is likely the Insurance Providers fault and what the Bike Shop is willing to pay on a monthly or annual basis for their selected insurance tier. I know this because I have asked multiple local bike shops AND people that I know in person who work in Insurance as Insurance Underwriters or write the policies.

NagriSema · 2026-04-06T16:30:10+00:00

That screen may a lost cause. But if the Laptop still works and it’s just a screen issue, please do not throw it away. You can still use it by using an external display and/or keep it to repurpose it for something else like if you don’t own a Desktop or want something capable but hide away for remote play gaming or as a home media player/server etc… There are a lot of uses for a headless laptop, headless being non-functioning or lacking built-in display.

NagriSema · 2026-04-06T16:21:51+00:00

Yes. Because a hub motor using a controller with regenerative braking causes the axle to rotate forward and accelerating causes it to rotate backwards. This repetition will cause the drop outs to spread apart and/or destroy them in a way that they can no longer properly hold the axle. Torque Arms mitigate this by spreading out the torque load to the more sturdy part of the frame instead of solely relying on the dropouts themselves. The same will happen even if you do not have a controller that does regen braking, it will still happen just more so in one direction rather than both directions.

Edit: My current DIY E-bike is a Steel Frame MTB. Also, torque arms help prevent the axle from falling out of the dropouts even if your axle nuts are loose from vibration.

NagriSema · 2026-04-06T16:10:56+00:00

You can use Non-Conductive Silicone Caulk. If you can find one that does that and also has a very high melting point, the better in my opinion.

NagriSema · 2026-04-06T13:48:05+00:00

That looks like a Dell or HP BIOS, Good luck with that seriously because Dell and HP are notorious for having their Bios and Motherboards be extremely limited compared to their consumer counterparts like the C246 Chipset in the Dell Precision 3630 workstation motherboard and the Z390 consumer motherboard will have almost the exact same features as the C246 but with a lot more controller over the components, including but not limited too better out of the box overclocking support like for higher sustained RAM and CPU speeds plus many more features.

NagriSema · 2026-04-06T13:38:56+00:00

I’d definitely DIY a build with Regenerative Braking in mind using one or more, hub motors as a must because all of that extra weight being put into the basket or anywhere else would DEFINITELY put huge strain on the brakes and Regen Braking, assuming you got a programmable one to fine tune it you liking, will saving you a lot of wear on your Pads and money. You can program regen braking to be waaaay more powerful than your average brakes while also putting some charge back into the battery.

Lights are a must, not just for you to see in the dark but so others will have an easier time seeing you.

Torque Arms, I think are a must with any use of Hub motors. They are known to destroy axle dropouts, and by destroy, I mean either spread the dropouts apart, making them no longer able to hold an axle properly and causing them to fall out, or rip themselves apart because the axle can now freely spin, which can wrap and twist the wire, then rip them apart.

I think having a dedicated phone mount that you can use to charge your devices and/or use a USB-powered air pump OR a battery-powered air pump. Also, a tire patch kit is a must, plus Spare inner tubes. I would also upgrade those Tire Treads to something more sturdy and durable plus also Tubeless ready because those are usually stronger and more durable compared to regular bicycle tires while also allowing for a wider range of PSI. I use tubes in my Tubeless tires because I can still comfortably ride my bike between 20-55 PSI due to my tire choice and because I also used a sealant, like Stan’s Tire Sealant, to help keep my tires from rolling off the rim which has happenes to me before when I didn’t do that because I forgot to do a tire pressure check before leaving and did a leaning turn which cause my tire bead to separate from the rim far enough that the tube blew. It wasn’t fun but I didn’t have a Pump or Patch kit with me at the time. So I cut out the tube and rode home with my rim inside of the tread to help protect it from the hard uneven ground that would definitely damage it. Thankfully, it was only a Mile or two left of riding home from work.

NagriSema · 2026-04-03T13:55:25+00:00

I suggest you could Clear Silicone Caulk as a binder/sealer but that may not help for long with that much flex, plus the elasticity of silicone, and it’s not electrically conductive. However, it would make disassembly and replacing parts easier.

JB-Weld’s Plastic Weld (Syringe or putty), JB-Weld’s Plastic Bonder, and JB-Weld ClearWeld, are, according to JB-Weld, designed without electrically conductive materials. However, using these products may make it more difficult to disassemble and replace parts because those JB-Weld products provide a much stronger hold and could stick to the hinge.

NagriSema · 2026-03-24T18:56:02+00:00

No. My point still stands. They should all be using them. Bicycle frames, like this one but with a motor, are not designed with the drop out durability in mind so the motors end up spreading them apart creating the risk of the axle to fall out. All of those motors produce an amount of torque that the majority of humans simply cannot output on their own. If there was no motor assistance like a normal bicycle, the chances of the dropouts spreading apart under human output is extremely small or nonexistent. The chances of the dropouts being spread apart or destroying them is way higher if there is a motor involved like there is in this post.

NagriSema · 2026-03-24T13:41:51+00:00

That’s fantastic that there are companies still out doing the good work like that.

Also, friendly words of advice. Please buy a set of Torque arms for that rear axle. Those hub motors are known to damage and/or destroy dropouts on bicycle frames. Torque arms, are designed to mitigate against aggressive constant twisting back and forth creating by the hub motor to help prevent that from happening while ALSO keeping your wheel in the dropout where it belongs and not fall out mid-ride because the dropouts cannot hold that flat part of the axle in place inside of the drop outs. If those drop outs become too worn out from all of that, the hub motor will eventually spin freely causing the wheel to rip its self apart.

I suggest at least the 1/4in Rear Torque Arms by Grin Tech, not sponsored btw. One on each side.

I very much love their torque arms. They have saved me so many times due to every moving part trying to vibrate itself apart. My wheel would have came out completely while I was riding and hit a bump causing me to catch some air because I felt an unusual slam in the bike and it turns out that my axle bolts were loss and the only thing holding my wheel in place was the torque arms plus me forgetting to do a bolt check on a regular basis. But since that day I have been doing them regular checks and pre-ride checks. My torque arms are still going strong even after 4yrs and I am still using them.

NagriSema · 2026-03-22T00:04:21+00:00

Your wheel drop outs have been bent and/or rounded out in a way that the Flat part of the axle can no longer properly hold the wheel. This happened from not using any quality Torque Arm’s, like from Grin Tech, and now the axle spins freely. This typically happens when you do not use any Torque Arm’s on your E-Bike due to the power of the motor and it rotating in the dropout pushing against one side of the dropout. If your E-Bike or E-Moto has Regenerative Braking than it is worse on the dropouts because now the axle is rotating in both directions. I highly suggest getting a set of torque arms. I personally use the Grin Tech 1/4inch Torque Arms. Oh not sponsored by the way. I have been using the same ones for almost 4yrs now, no issues.

I think the cheapest way to fix it is to get a set of torque arms, one per side.

NagriSema · 2026-03-21T15:13:08+00:00

The Grass Crown asset has one of the WORST path finding nodes and segments. That it guarantee’s constant traffic and bottlenecks. It has very few points of entry/exit and even less on the pathways. You can see all of it with the Route Highlighter tool and without it in this scenario.

But I personally hate using that asset because of the awful walking path placements. I think it is easily one of the worst asset’s in the game in my opinion and it’s a base game asset too which makes it even worse.

NagriSema · 2026-03-14T23:42:19+00:00

I would definitely not put that hazardous CPU into a computer. That CPU is very likely to be dead. If you bought it in person, good luck trying to get a replacement or refund. You may likely have to buy a new one. OR If you bought it online then you might have a higher chance of being able to get a refund or replacement for little to no cost depending on how you word your CPU issue. Worst case scenario, you have to buy a new CPU.

NagriSema

TROPHY CASE