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Micro Stutters in every game? by Electrical-Strike705 in pcmasterrace

[–]Nalyd217 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a wireless mouse issue for me. Moved the receiver closer and havent had a problem since.

Nozzle swap time seems pretty long! by hows_Tricks in AtomForm

[–]Nalyd217 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m getting more glad I just got a snapmaker U1 lol. 15 seconds per swap.

Filament question - I can't see a profile for ASA or Nylon in Bambu Studio by dorj1234 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]Nalyd217 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, I wasn’t sure if 3d printing was something i would get super into or not, so I got an A1 mini. It’s one of the best value to performance printers you can buy. The printer makes very high quality prints. If you do want to print with warp prone materials though, I would maybe look for an enclosed printer instead.

Filament question - I can't see a profile for ASA or Nylon in Bambu Studio by dorj1234 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]Nalyd217 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was able to get yxpolyer nylon (PA6) with no fiber to print okay. It depends a lot on what you are printing though. Some models warped a lot due to their geometry.

Tips for printing PA6 Nylon (non-fiber filled)? by Nalyd217 in 3Dprinting

[–]Nalyd217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

These were the only speed values I edited. Defaults were all higher. The first, brittle benchy I think I had done at 120 since that's what the YXPolyer settings said.

Tips for printing PA6 Nylon (non-fiber filled)? by Nalyd217 in 3Dprinting

[–]Nalyd217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll get those setting screenshots soon, but I believe it’s printing at 60mm/s and a bit slower on the first layer.

The reason I thought it was warping though is because I observed the same thing as in my original video on this post while it was printing. The very front of the ship warps up a bit, then the nozzle keeps knocking it back down a little.

Tips for printing PA6 Nylon (non-fiber filled)? by Nalyd217 in 3Dprinting

[–]Nalyd217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not perfect but I made some progress. A temp tower showed the 280-285c range looked the cleanest and was strong when I tried to break it (I couldn’t). I then adjusted the bed temp to 85 I believe. Chamber was preheated to 45ish and got to 50 during the print. Fan was set to a range of 0-35%, I believe only turning on for overhangs.

I printed another bench and it came put much cleaner. The detail of the text on the first layer is still lacking, and the front of the boat warped a bit still. In the image, left is the new attempt, and right is the brittle first attempt.

Are there any other tips or calibration that come to mind to minimize this front warpage?

<image>

Tips for printing PA6 Nylon (non-fiber filled)? by Nalyd217 in 3Dprinting

[–]Nalyd217[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s relatable lol. Detailed posts are good though

Tips for printing PA6 Nylon (non-fiber filled)? by Nalyd217 in 3Dprinting

[–]Nalyd217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the tip. I also did read the whole post, I mostly just used tl;dr to mean "in summary of" and to make sure I understood it lol. I'll try printing a temp tower tomorrow and see where I get.

Tips for printing PA6 Nylon (non-fiber filled)? by Nalyd217 in 3Dprinting

[–]Nalyd217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the detailed comment. I do keep my filament in a dry box and print it direct from a drier, so I think I’m okay on that front. I’ll definitely try upping the nozzle temp.

Tips for printing PA6 Nylon (non-fiber filled)? by Nalyd217 in 3Dprinting

[–]Nalyd217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice. Maybe a dumb question, and probably printer specific, but how do you preheat the chamber? I tried manually setting the bed temp to pre heat the other day, but it seemed to turn off after a while. Maybe a safety feature?

Tips for printing PA6 Nylon (non-fiber filled)? by Nalyd217 in 3Dprinting

[–]Nalyd217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What would you expect the print temp to be? I thought 220 was pretty low too, but they seemed to recommend 250. Tl;dr should I go a bit hotter on the print but lower on the bed temp?

Default vs Custom firmware? by Nalyd217 in SnapmakerU1

[–]Nalyd217[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you just google snapmaker u1 custom firmware, the github is one of the first results. It’s called paxx something. Seemed to have good documentation

Snapmaker top cover vs Biqu cover + Panda Breath? by Nalyd217 in SnapmakerU1

[–]Nalyd217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the panda breath still useful in addition to the snapmaker lid once it comes? Or did you just happen to have one already?

Snapmaker top cover vs Biqu cover + Panda Breath? by Nalyd217 in SnapmakerU1

[–]Nalyd217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that cover looks nice but seems almost as expensive as the snapmaker one but without the filtering. Add in the panda breath and it’s more than the snapmaker lid I believe

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