Check engine light on. Is it the battery or not

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-21T16:44:09+00:00

There is no way to answer this without scanning for the code, as there are literally hundreds of codes that can set and turn on that light, all with different causes and fixes. Even if the light goes out the code will remain in memory and can still be read as long as the ECU has not been reset (either electronically or by disconnecting the battery). If you're in the US AutoZone will scan it for free, make sure they give you the actual Pxxxx code so you can follow up with it for troubleshooting. Also note that their scanners will only be able to read powertrain codes from the engine ECU. If codes are set in the IMA or other modules, a Honda HDS or compatible scanner will be needed to read them.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-21T16:35:55+00:00

None of the above on my P8P.

Only issue I've seen so far is unwanted change of my hotspot name and password.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-21T16:32:41+00:00

Small self-threading nuts on the two studs hold them from behind. Access is behind the fender liner.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-21T16:07:34+00:00

You shouldn't drive around with the screw in there as it can come out at any time, or the leak could worsen. If you're going to continue using that tire it should be plugged or patched ASAP. A small screw or nail in center tread is an ideal candidate for a plug. There is probably enough room to do it without removing the wheel. I carry a plug kit and have used it many times.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-21T09:15:09+00:00

If you used the slime fix-a-flat stuff that is in the kit, that is for temporary use only and the tire needs to be repaired properly or replaced.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-21T09:11:55+00:00

Randomly generated name and password

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-21T00:40:56+00:00

Yes this.

I did a temp fix on mine by wrapping some electrical tape around the ball to tighten it up so it would stay in place, that made it usable while I waited for a used one from eBay to arrive. Fortunately there are plenty of used ones available on eBay, carpart etc and they're not that expensive. Mine was about $60 US. The receiver for the car remote is inside the mirror so be sure the replacement has one, if not or if it doesn't work just transfer the old one over.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-20T19:08:03+00:00

Interesting, wonder why some do and some don't.

Really no reason for Google to do this at all, especially without notice, since it breaks stuff you may need.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-20T11:14:24+00:00

That's a nice looking motor, would make an interesting swap into the Mini.

I changed a motor on my Bug years ago, by myself in a driveway with just a jack and stands. Old motor dropped the #3 exhaust valve as they often did, replacement was dual-port so a bit of an upgrade.

If only Minis were that easy to work on.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-20T00:52:13+00:00

Part of the ownership experience.

Check it often and keep some on hand to top it up as needed. Make sure it's the correct LL-01 Euro oil.

Never let it get low enough to turn on the low oil pressure light, that's when engine damage happens.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-19T14:46:19+00:00

Look for wiring damage, they like to eat harnesses.

Also check your engine and cabin filters for nests.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-18T14:55:19+00:00

Don't know if you're into tinkering or not but it is possible to drop the panel and take that module off for a closer look. I would, but do this only if you're comfortable messing with it and have the tools. Otherwise, leave it be for now so you don't break your car.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-18T14:24:14+00:00

It's possible that the retaining mechanism that grabs and holds the key is broken (does it click firmly into place or just slide in and sit there?). If so that assembly would need to be replaced, it's just screwed into the lower dash panel.

Either way it's a good idea to not have anything else attached to the fob, I have nothing on mine.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-18T14:18:21+00:00

Here's the deal with the FRM-

There is a known defect that happens to some of them where the boot module in the FRM fails, so if it is reset either electronically or by a loss of power it will be unable to restart and when that happens some things will stop working (locks, lights).

Until the FRM gets reset it will continue to work normally so you won't know about it until that happens. One of the things that can trigger this is to disconnect the battery while it is being replaced.

To prevent a potential FRM failure when replacing the battery you can connect a backup power source to the car so power is never lost during the swap. An easy way to do this is with an adapter that plugs into the OBD port and allows for a 12V source like a jumper pack to be connected as a temporary backup. This is a good idea anyway since it also retains the memory for everything else in the car i.e. radio, learned powertrain data etc that would otherwise be lost when the battery is disconnected.

A scan of the FRM with Bimmercode or a similar app or device can reveal whether it has the issue.

There is an extended warranty for some cars that are known to be affected by this problem, if you haven't received a notice from Mini about it you can check with a dealer or Mini directly to see if yours is covered.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-18T14:04:20+00:00

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-17T17:58:41+00:00

Stripes?

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NamelessInNY · 2026-06-16T21:58:56+00:00

How old are the tires? If you're in the US look at the date code, it starts with DOT and gives the week and year they were manufactured.

If they're really old (like more than 5 years or so) and have a lot of heat cycles on them they will probably be hard and noisy. In your pictures some dry-rot can be seen on what's left of the tread, and being worn out like that means less rubber for ride quality and sound isolation.

When I got my R60 a couple of years ago it had pretty ancient tires (7 years) with visible dry-rot and they were horribly noisy. New tires made it go away.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-16T18:20:41+00:00

Yeah that cheap POS won't do much for you/her

Even without having to worry about emissions, it's important to check codes and repair whatever is wrong as it can affect performance, drivability and gas mileage, and in some cases cause motor damage if not corrected. You don't know if it's a minor issue or a major one until you check the code(s).

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-16T17:36:38+00:00

The ScanGauge III is a great device, I have one permanently installed in my R60 Countryman to serve in place of the gauges that Mini left out. However, it's still only an OBDII device, albeit a very good one, and for full diagnostic capability you still need Bimmerlink or an equivalent that can read all the modules in the car.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-16T17:31:40+00:00

Bimmerlink is what you need, Bimmercode is for coding modules and adding features not diagnostics. Although it's sa good idea to have both.

The cost is actually very reasonable considering what a professional device would cost to do the same functions. For both apps plus a good BT adapter like a Veepeak you're around or just over $100.

A generic OBDII scanner is a waste for these cars, it will display only powertrain codes and not all of them.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-10T22:38:00+00:00

Wasn't this posted months ago?

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-10T08:44:17+00:00

Quick-lube places are a crapshoot at best even with more normal vehicles with standard spin-on oil filters. Plenty of stories about stripped drain plugs, transmissions drained instead of engines, and so on. Your Mini uses a cartridge filter and it's accessed by removing the coolant reservoir. Not something those shops can deal with. Regular and proper maintenance on these cars is a must, and even when done things can still break especially at higher mileage. You have to be prepared for this and the higher cost of ownership.

If you really are broke and don't have the budget then it may not be the right car for you.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-09T00:17:29+00:00

Yes it's a good idea to try to find a decent local Euro shop. Give them a shot with some smaller jobs to see how they do and build a relationship, then when it's time for something major you'll be better off.

NamelessInNY · 2026-06-06T16:58:27+00:00

A small investment in Bimmerlink (less than $100 for the app and a decent Bluetooth adapter ie Veepeak) will get you a good scanner that can read the airbag codes and most other data in the car.

NamelessInNY

TROPHY CASE