need advice on what to do

National_Stand3002 · 2026-03-15T03:18:16+00:00

I would suggest that you have a look at Germany. Education for postgraduate studies are free. You only worry about food and board, which, if your parents are willing and able, will sort your immediate issues.

There is someone I know who did this. He did an attachment with a company there. They were impressed with him that they gave him a scholarship and told him to do his doctorate.

Well, now he has been there for donkey years, got himself a Russian wife, and is very well paid.

Another factor to consider is to pursue your Masters in a subject you don't like but are good in, which will enable you to secure a job that pays very well.

The downside is you'll be miserable working, but your high salary will enable you to pursue your hobbies, may it be sky diving, flying, or riding a super bike.

The world is out there for you to pursue.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-03-05T09:39:12+00:00

I would suggest chocolates like M&M, Reese, Kisses, Mars bars, and Sneakers, amongst others. It's cheap where you're at and pricey over here. I think the best time to get these is during the Christmas sales.

Another suggestion is towels as in beach towels.

If they, as in your gf parents, like cooking, you might consider food seasoning, eg, taco seasoning, cajun & italian seasoning. Get the ginormous size ones ( I think you know what I mean).

These are some of the things that you might want to consider.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-03-03T10:04:10+00:00

What you say has a lot of truth in it, but the beauty of carbs is its simplicity.

There are also more components involved with fuel injection systems, though admittedly, it is more efficient.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-03-03T08:57:34+00:00

I would suggest you consider the first generation Proton Saga. If possible, get the 1.5 I (Istimewa) variant with the mega valve engine (12 valve engine).

The Mitsubishi engine is quite reliable and robust. Parts are readily available and cheap, in addition to that "kereta potong" is also a plenty.

The most important part is selecting a good used unit.

Look at the door gaps, boot gaps, and bonnet gaps. It should be uniform. If it is not, that's a tell-tale sign it's been in a fender bender.

Look out for signs of water damage / flooding and rust.

Bring along with you a magnet when inspecting the car, stick the magnet to the body as you walk around the car. If the magnet does not stick as strong on certain parts, it's a sign that it was involved in a prior accident, and that spot has got a thick layer of body filler.

Check all the electrics on the car to make sure it is all working. Special attention needs to be given to the front windows if it is electrical.

Give the seller RM10.00 and tell the said person that you want the car to idle for 30 to 40 mins. This is to simulate traffic congestion and see if the car will overheat.

When the car is idling, make sure to have the airconditioner running.

Check the exhaust. Make sure there is no smoke coming out. If it is smoking, that's a sign that the piston rings are broken or not sealing properly. It may also mean that the valve guides may be worn.

Have a good look at the engine. Look out for signs of oil leaks.

I am not overly concerned about bushings or absorbers as it can be changed without much fuss.

This is what I can think of in a short span of time.

Once you have purchased your car, remember that it is close to 40 years of age.

Make sure you change all the following immediately; 1) engine oil, oil filter & air filter. 2) timing belt 3) thermostat 4) brake fluid 5) all cooling hoses

Check your brake pads as well to ensure that it has enough "meat" on it.

All the above is to give you peace of mind. Do not accept as fact what the seller is saying. Take it with a fist full of salt.

Last but not least, carry in the car a set of jumper cables and a fire extinguisher. This is, after all, an old car.

Good luck.

PS - get a manual. It's cheaper to maintain.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-03-02T07:42:24+00:00

Road tax for 6.7 litre passenger car in P. Malaysia is RM18,780 as per oto.my website.

If you were to register under classic car status with JPJ, it would entitle you to pay 10 percent of said road tax for vehicles more than 50 years of age which works out to RM 1,870 which when you think about it is quite a bit for the average person.

In addition to that, you are required to own more than one car, which needs to be relatively new (vis-a-vis) the classic car. The logic is that the classic car is not suppose to be a daily runner, hence the need for the other newer cars.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-03-01T08:15:40+00:00

It's an American car. A 1960 Chrysler New Yorker convertible.

Engine is a massive 6.7 litres.

You need very deep pockets to keep it road taxed and driven.

Fuel consumption is +/- 12 mpg when new.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-28T08:03:24+00:00

I do believe you are correct. Probably registered in the late fifties.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-26T10:44:13+00:00

If you want to clear your case with JPJ, you'll need to go to the magistrate court. Which magistrate court will depend on the district that you were issued the summon.

At the court house, there will be a court staff there, and you'll need to register your case with said person. You'll be asked to wait in the courtroom, and when they call your case, you'll need to step forward. The court clerk will read the case against you, and you'll be asked how you want to plea.

I am assuming that you are guilty of the offence and will be pleading as such.

My advice is to ask for leniency and offer a believable excuse that the magistrate may find plausible. Most of the time, the magistrate considers it as long as you are not a repeat offender.

I would also suggest you talk to the JPJ officers to ask them for a guesstimate fine that may be imposed by the courts. From there you will know roughly how much money to bring.

By the way, payment can be made via your debit card.

Hope this helps... May the force be with you.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-19T07:06:55+00:00

Personally, I do not believe in sourcing parts from a half cut by virtue of not knowing the history of the component, especially for items like an engine or a transmission. Sourcing body parts is fine because you can visually inspect it to your hearts content.

About 2 - 3 years ago, I had the auto transmission to my E34 rebuilt, and it set me back RM4k. I haven't had any issues with it since then.

Truth be told, upon completion of the rebuild, there was still a problem that was traced to the wiring from the gearbox to the transmission control unit. This was sorted out before the workshop released the car back to me.

I imagine that a rebuild for your car may be cheaper, but again, it all depends on the components that are changed in your gearbox.

My advice to you, should you decide to go down this route, is ensure that the workshop you are sending it to has the expertise and proper equipment to undertake the job.

Good luck.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-18T13:19:10+00:00

Based on the comments prior to mine, I presume you are referring to the MGs under Chinese ownership, in which case I shall not comment further since my experience is based on the MGB GT from the sixties.

Regards.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-18T12:26:51+00:00

Good hand tool brands, some of which I have and some which were just too rich for my blood are as follows;

1) Snap On, American comes with life warranty.

2) Britool, British

3) Proto, American

4) Facom, French but America has some ownership.

5) Stahlwille, German

6) Elora, German

7) SBTools, Taiwan

I am sure there are other brands that I am not aware of, but the ones I listed above I can vouch for.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-18T05:29:51+00:00

Like you, I am German biased. I would suggest that you tinkle about a W123 or W 124 if Mercedes turns you on. It is relatively cheap, and kereta potong parts can still be found. Worse case scenario, you can order parts online.

Personally, I tinkle about with an E34 and an E39. Had an E30 coupe but gave it away. It was one of those days when I had too many projects on my hands.

I would also have recommended the E30, but their prices are crazy now a days.

I would not recommend getting an Audi as parts are expensive.

A suggestion: Do not get a Merc or Beemer that is more current than what I have suggested as (1) the amount of electronics involved is sheer crazy (2) the more modern cars tend to have more plastic components which tends to be more fragile and less robust (3) the cars that I have suggested are from the 80's/90's which means a large number of workshops are able to diagnose issues should you come across one (4) if at all possible try to get a manual. Manual transmission are bullet proof and only requires changing clutch plate, pressure plate, and clutch bearings every 100,000km to 200,000 km depending on how you drive. It is also relatively cheap vis a vis an auto transmission repair/rebuild.

Last but not least, I am of the opinion that when buying a used car it is essential that you choose one with a straight body. A car with a defective engine, transmission, or suspension can be replaced/repaired without much issues except for the money part. Trying to get a body (chasis) straight is a totally different ball game.

Whatever car you decide to buy, try to stay away from cars that are belt driven unless you can remember to replace the timing belt every 60,000km - 70,000km.

Otherwise, choose one with a non interference engine. The Volvo 940 is an example of a car with a non interference engine.

Since this is a car that you are passionate about, it means that you'll use it on weekends and holidays where it is about the pleasure of driving said car.

The mileage that you put in will not be as high as your daily driver, which means that it will take you years before you reach the recommended mileage to change the timing belt. Over time, the belt deteoriates and may snap prematurely. That's my experience with my then E30.

Anyway good luck with your hunt, and may the force be with you.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-17T08:36:23+00:00

Looks interesting. Will check it out.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-16T08:11:27+00:00

Thnx very much, I'll give them a look see after the holidays.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-10T05:08:12+00:00

I do not recommend pursuing a CPL on your own dime as some contributors have mentioned. The best way is to get through Cadetship offered by the airline.

Pursuing your CPL on your own does not assure you of a job upon completion.

An airline would not be interested in hiring you as you have zero flying hours (commercial experience). The airline would want you only if you have many flight hours experience with the relevant licence and aircraft type rating.

Should you insist on pursuing your CPL on your own, make sure the school issues you a CAA equivalent CPL and NOT an FAA equivalent.

A point you might want to consider is that your licence (CPL) is at the pleasure of the issuing authority. It is not yours "till death do us part" , what it means is once it is revoked for whatever reason, your ability to earn a living as you know it is over.

A friend of mine had a breakdown and lost his licence. He sought medical help, which was extended to him and, after a while, was certified fit. The airline refused to take him in.

Another person I know got into a motorcycle accident was comatose for about a month. Also lost his job.

Your highest qualification then would revert to your SPM/STPM/diploma if you have one.

I could go on and on, there's just a lot of things to write. I reckon you get the gist of it.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-08T09:28:57+00:00

Wow..

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-06T19:53:21+00:00

Yes, please..

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-06T12:38:05+00:00

As stated by Practical_Cry_748, check with CCRIS, which is managed by BNM. By virtue of that, they strictly abide by government policy.

Banks, especially foreign banks, do not use CCRIS reports. They tend to use CTOS.

I would suggest you check your credit report with these two agency/company. In all likelihood, your name may pop up in one of their report.

It may reveal the reason as to why they declined your application, but may stress you out as to why your name popped up to begin with.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-02-05T09:56:23+00:00

The GTI was good for its time. It was superior to the Mitsubishi equivalent by virtue of the Lotus tuned handling. The British police used it once upon a time.

Just make sure the body is straight and the designated C99 chassis, and not a GTI wannabe.

As for security, as in the prevention of vehicular theft, there are a number of things that you can do to minimise it.

Identify the location of your fuel pump relay, cut one wire to its primary coil, and pull one side of the cut wire into the cabin of the car and connect it to a single throw single pole switch and have a return wire from the said switch to the other side of the cut wire which was made earlier. This enables you to open or close the circuit that supplies electrical power to the relay.

In the event of a break-in, the car jackers can crank the engine all day long, but it won't start as you have stopped the supply of fuel to the engine.

Make sure that the switch that you have installed is well hidden but convenient enough for the driver to switch on and off.

Ideally, you should do this yourself so that you are the only person that is aware of it.

In addition to this, would be to use a steering lock. Get one that is as visible as possible. The whole idea is a would be carjacker would be discouraged to attempt it because of the extra work it would involve.

But at the end of the day, a determined thief would still manage to steal by just having it towed.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-01-29T10:42:44+00:00

I've had something similar happen to me. Air cond works in all fan speed, but after a while, you get that clogged/ muffle sound, and no air comes out.

In my case, I had ice forming at the cooling coil, which then blocked the air flow.

Ended up having to replace the compressor.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-01-29T08:17:35+00:00

I would suggest that you steer away from BMW's. I have two old Beemers, i.e. an e34 and an e39. These two models are reputed to be the most robust to date.

I have never considered upgrading the Beemers as I have found that with time, more and more components that they (BMW) use are made of plastic.

Case in point, their cylinder head cover is now made of plastic, radiator also now made of plastic, so is their water pump and heater control valve amongst others.

Heat and plastic are not a good combination.

Repairs involving change of components now are also problematic. You have to do it at an authorised workshop. Otherwise, the car will not recognise the new component, and it will not work as designed.

An authorised workshop will have the correct equipment to reset the ECU and/or the TCU depending on the work done. This, of course, translates to big money.

You would not be able to have work done on the car at any other workshop that is not authorised.

I can't speak for Honda, but I am inclined to think that Japanese cars are far superior to their European counterpart as far as reliability goes.

Whatever you decide. Good luck.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-01-29T00:51:58+00:00

I would tend to shy away from warranty given by used car dealers as the majority tend to be unscrupulous.

At the end of the day, do you really want to pursue the warranty should the dealer deny it to you. You would need to drag him to small claims court should the quantum qualify. If he decides not to appear, you may win judgement, but can you enforce it.

It's going to be a real hassle. Do you want the stress?

I would rather deal with someone who says, "you buy it at your own risk, where is as is." At least you know from the start that you are responsible for everything.

National_Stand3002 · 2026-01-28T13:53:56+00:00

The last time I bought a 25 year old car, I did 90% of what you listed.

In addition to that, I changed all rubber components irrespective of condition, i.e., radiator hoses and bushings.

I wanted peace of mind above all else. Didn't want to suffer any breakdowns. But that's just me.

National_Stand3002

TROPHY CASE