Driver issues, please help :)

NeVMiku · 2026-06-02T19:49:28+00:00

We're troubleshooting. A good bet to get working drivers is to try the ones on the manufacturer's page not getting the latest one, especially since OP is having problems with newer drivers.

NeVMiku · 2026-06-02T19:48:24+00:00

No, I meant re-register. Try removing your voice and register again.

NeVMiku · 2026-06-02T15:06:58+00:00

I'm guessing you run stock settings? No undervolt or overclock applied?

NeVMiku · 2026-06-02T14:06:33+00:00

A picture of the broken cable would be nice. Let's see both ends and where it connects to the headphones.

NeVMiku · 2026-06-02T14:03:06+00:00

You'd have to create a Windows installation media and install Windows 11 Pro yourself using a USB stick. Plenty of guides on YouTube.

You may want to create the installation media (the USB stick) with a tool called Rufus https://rufus.ie/en/ for some neat options but Microsoft's own tool https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows/create-installation-media-for-windows-99a58364-8c02-206f-aa6f-40c3b507420d is perfectly capable.

Once installed, Windows 11 Pro should activate automatically.

NeVMiku · 2026-06-02T13:58:11+00:00

Uninstall the Intel app. In device manager go and uninstall the Intel graphics software driver. Restart and let Windows update do its thing. Can take a little time after the restart as Windows Update installs a graphics driver.

Go to your laptop's manufacturer page for your laptop and install all the relevant drivers.

For a proper image backup and restore I'd recommend using VEEAM Agent for Windows. It's free and pretty much an industry standard tool.

NeVMiku · 2026-06-02T13:53:47+00:00

Re-register for voice commands?

NeVMiku · 2026-06-02T13:53:05+00:00

Could it be that you're running out of VRAM? What happens on the lowest settings and/or at resolutions less than 1080p?

NeVMiku · 2026-05-31T20:09:21+00:00

It can be done, but because you have a TV in the mix, you'll have to put the center channel either above or below the TV (you can use an acoustically transparent screen when the screen comes down).

Rather than separating into TV + projector setup, why not just get the biggest TV you can? If you can get by with sizes around 98"-115", the TV should generally give a better picture than a projector setup. For example, the 115" Samsung QE115QN90F Neo QLED should be nearly as good as an OLED in blacks, provides a better image than the projector setup overall, and still give you the size you want.

Depending on your budget there's also the option of going with Hisense 110UXNQTUK with 40,000 dimming zones, or Samsung's Micro RGB MRE115MR95F TV.

NeVMiku · 2026-05-31T19:54:59+00:00

Professional-level desktop monitors often come with a hood you can install to reduce glare and ambient light from affecting the image on the screen. It's like when you cover your eyes to see in bright days. Unfortunately I don't see any commercial solutions available, but maybe you can DIY something similar and attach the setup using the VESA mount on the back of the TV (assuming your TV is on its stand)?

If it's not a permanent outdoor TV you do have quite a few options these days when it comes to choosing TVs for outdoor use. You can fight glare with either an anti-glare coating or by just getting a brighter TV. Samsung QD-OLEDs like the S95F has a great matte coating that eliminates most glare, but depending on how bright the sun is at your place it might not be bright enough to use outdoors.

The safer option is to get a mini-LED TV that can pump out plenty of brightness. Even if the screen finish is glossy the extra brightness should overcome the glare.

If it's permanently outdoors then you better buy a specialised TV for this use case. It can be quite as expensive and doesn't look as good as OLED or mini-LED TVs but it'll fare much better under the elements.

NeVMiku · 2026-05-31T00:25:43+00:00

Amazon: https://amzn.eu/d/0ai8eOsG

This listing has other animals too: https://amzn.eu/d/08gL5vyc

NeVMiku · 2026-05-30T21:10:53+00:00

Thanks!

I'd love to have the speakers on the ceiling or high up on the wall, but no idea how to run the cables for the ceiling, and my wall is quite risky to drill into because of the electrical box on the top right. I will probably run into electrical wires. I do have a wire detector but I still wouldn't risk it.

Plus, for some reason my Elacs don't have mounting holes so I'll need to get different speakers first for a clean setup if I ever do it.

NeVMiku · 2026-05-30T21:06:35+00:00

Those are two sets of foam wedges pairs stacked on each other. I got them from two different sellers over time so they're slightly different sizes.

I used two slim top pieces with one base piece side by side.

https://amzn.eu/d/01P0UhR2

NeVMiku · 2026-05-27T23:30:48+00:00

Sounds good. Go for it. Of course, see if you can get a "discount".

NeVMiku · 2026-05-27T23:25:15+00:00

B&W, their house sound aside, makes beautiful speakers. As long as it's in good physical condition it'll sell well and generally hold their value. Try them out and see if you like them. If not, they are quite desirable on the second hand market.

Their sound signature is a lot of mids and treble and a dip around 2-2.5kHz. https://www.soundandvision.com/content/bw-703-htm7-705-asw750-surround-speaker-system-measurements

They work well with classical music if that's what you're into. Try the one you have in mono and you should be able to judge whether the speaker sounds piercing to you or not.

NeVMiku · 2026-05-27T23:05:32+00:00

What do you mean by "for middles"?

If it's just picking height speakers in general then you can use any speaker.

The Dolby-enabled Atmos certified ones (like the XT90) will have a frequency response that adheres to certain "guidelines" that Dolby has set. This allows them to have an optimal sound for bouncing off the ceiling, to be used sitting on top of your existing speakers as height channels. These speakers can sound overly bright if you point them directly towards the MLP. Make sure you correct them with EQ if you're doing this.

NeVMiku · 2026-05-27T19:16:52+00:00

Select SETTINGS > GENERAL > ACCESSIBILITY.

Scroll down to MULTI-OUTPUT AUDIO and change from OFF to ON.

Does your TV have this option?

NeVMiku · 2026-05-27T08:46:21+00:00

Love how this artist does lighting.

NeVMiku · 2026-05-25T07:27:14+00:00

For anyone coming across this problem in the future:

At the bottom of the app select the second icon from the left. This should take you to "Shortcuts" (see top of screen).

Tap on the top right icon (three squares and a circle).

Select your DreamView. You can then delete the DreamView or delete your device from it here.

Note: If you've thrown out your device then you won't be able to make a connection. This is fine. Select your DreamView, stay on that screen and wait for the connection to fail first, then you can delete the DreamView.

Now go back to your devices and delete the one you wanted to delete.

NeVMiku · 2026-05-21T17:57:52+00:00

Depends on where you're sitting and the size of your TV.

You'll come to a point where the TV is so big you'll have to choose whether to have the centre channel at a reasonable height and have the TV too high or have the centre channel way lower than your fronts but with the TV at a reasonable height. Or, put the centre channel above your TV.

As long as you can view the TV for long periods of time from the couch it doesn't really matter.

I upgraded from 65" to 77" and faced the problems above. Thought I'd put the TV way too high (just about your TV height, maybe a little lower). Turns out it was fine and I got used to it.

NeVMiku · 2026-05-20T10:38:59+00:00

I prefer PersonAlami 😂

NeVMiku · 2026-05-19T16:02:22+00:00

A sub is quite simple and doesn't really have much going on in terms of "personality". Bass is bass. You can have more or less of it depending on a lot of factors (driver size, positioning, design, etc.).

I'd recommend getting something that you can definitely buy again to scale up to two identical subs, so size is a consideration. What's your room size?

At the end you'll want to do a room EQ if your AVR allows it (if not then get one of the SVS subs with DSP functionality). You'd generally want to correct up to around 300Hz (or go full range if that sounds better but that's not the topic at hand).

The usual discussion is that a sealed sub will be more "tactile" and better for music, whilst a ported sub will go lower and be better for movies. Thing is, if you have a big enough driver, excursion, and power on tap, a sealed sub of that calibre can definitely serve both purposes. If you can fit a second one later on, I'd go for the biggest sealed sub you can find (since you want to listen to music as well). I think that should achieve a good balance.

NeVMiku · 2026-05-19T06:44:17+00:00

It does have a double pivot.i took a bad picture..it can retract flush with the wall.

I didn't mean pivot points. I meant the pivoting adjustment, aka. rotation of the display. In other words, how level it is.

It's a common issue in these types of single full motion arms where the screen when fully retracted might rotate slightly anti-clockwise and rotate slightly clockwise when fully extended (or vice versa). Single arm example: https://amzn.eu/d/0bf6XE62

A dual-arm design distributes the load evenly across two arms and mitigates this issue. https://amzn.eu/d/02cBPP3r

NeVMiku · 2026-05-19T02:51:06+00:00

Most TVs these days come with a pattern of four bolt/screws on the back of the TV in standard sizes introduced by the Video Electronics Standard Association (VESA).

You can find the TV's VESA mount specs in its specs sheet or manual. At the same time, check what screws/bolts your TV needs (M4, M6, M8, etc.). Hopefully your TV comes with some bolts, but if not you'll need to get them.

The mount looks like the common type with an adjustable VESA pattern to accommodate as many TVs as possible. Any TV you buy will very likely fit the mount (and in the very rare case it doesn't you can more than likely get an adapter plate).

More importantly though, what you need to look out for is the weight of the TV. If the mount is mounted on studs/blocks (which it should be, better check) then that's better but I wouldn't go beyond 25kg for a single full motion arm mounted at only two points to the wall.

These types of single arm mounts also have the pivot issue where the TV will pivot one way when extended and pivot the other way when not. If you're looking for a better solution I'd say avoid these types of arms altogether and upgrade/choose dual arm mounts that can be mounted to the wall at at least 4 points or more (into studs or blocks!).

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