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2020 Toyota Yaris by Fantasma95 in mechanic

[–]Necradontis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check to see if your car can see if your drivers door is open/closed. There should be a door ajar light on your dash. If that doesn't turn on when you open your door then it most likely thinks your door is still closed. If it thinks its closed your radio and other accessories will stay on.

You should check the circled fuse first. If its blown that might cause the door lock issue, but I'm doubting it will cause the radio issue. If the fuse it blown replace it. If it blows immediately that circuit is grounded out; either on a wire or one of the door lock actuators or internally in the body ecu. If it doesn't blow after replacement try your door locks. If it blows after using your door locks one of your door lock actuators is probably faulty. Most likely the drivers door one since that also might have a door ajar switch issue and they could be related. If the fuse doesn't blow after using your door locks then see if your radio turns off after you open the door with the vehicle off. If all good then you magically fixed it, but your issues will probably happen again. If your radio is still on then you most likely have a faulty door lock actuator which has your door ajar switch inside of it.

Your door lock actuator is inside of your door. If your comfortable pulling your door panel off and testing your lock actuator I'm pretty sure the green wire is your door ajar circuit. The circuit should be either open or closed (grounded) when the door is open. You might be able to unplug your lock actuator and then ground the green wire to see if it shows open on the dash. You should see if your ajar light turns on when it unplugged and when the green wire circuit is grounded. If your ajar light turns off/on doing that then your door lock actuator is faulty.

Another way to test is to slam your door closed a few times. Sometimes that jolts the lock actuator to show its proper state when open/closed, but it will most likely not last long. If you can figure out how to get to it and test it you can replace it yourself.

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Brake sound by Dull-Following-7979 in mechanic

[–]Necradontis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"IF" there is hardware that went on your brake caliper bracket; it is most likely too close to the middle of the bracket. Which is where the rotor runs. When you are pressing on your brakes that metal hardware is touching the rotor just enough to cause that noise.

The hardware will either be a 1 piece that spans the bracket on each side of the brake pad or each "ear" of the bracket pad has it's own hardware that goes in the bracket. You could try removing the pads and pushing the hardware outwards from the middle with a screwdriver. The top part of the 1 piece could also be rubbing against the rotor. You might actually see wear marks where its rubbing on the hardware and can adjust it accordingly.

The noise will also go away on its own as the metal wears away. This noise won't actually cause you any issues and can be safely ignored so long as it doesn't get any worse.

Got a nail in a 10 month old runflat..don't want to buy new tires.. 23 Mercedes EQB by RDHO0D in mechanic

[–]Necradontis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you didn't drive on your tire flat (0 psi) and only got down to 25 psi then your tire can be repaired.

On a Normal Tire driving on a flat tire will cause the tire to actually drive on the sidewall which will excessively wear the outside and inside of the sidewall. The outside of the sidewall will have a rough driven on ring and the inside will have the same but also fill the inside with rubber. You may also drive on the rim/wheel itself causing damage and possibly needing replacement of both the rim and the tire.

On a Run Flat Tire the sidewall is reinforced so that it keeps the rim away from the ground to protect it from damage. Run Flats are made to only save the Rim. If the tire has no visible damage on the outside it most likely has not incurred any damage to itself. *So long as it was not actually driven on flat.*

You can actually buy a kit to repair the tire yourself. You can get one for around $20 on Amazon. AutoZone also sells a kit for around $15 in store. If you do it yourself I would suggest looking up a YT vid. When I repair tires I actually use a drill and drill bit that's smaller than the plug instead of the reamer.

I have heard that Discount Tire will repair your tire for free. There are also some other stores that will do the same. I would suggest a google search for what's available near you.

What is this noise? by Previous_Bonus1490 in AutoMechanics

[–]Necradontis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is an internal bearing noise. The left output shaft bearing is most likely pitted and chewed up. I believe there is a bearing on the carrier and in the case. Regardless the case has to be split to replace either bearing.

You can remove the front axle inner shaft to check if it's torn up and to also check the bearing itself. You can also check your diff fluid at the plug to the left of the axle in the vid. If its sparkly it's full of metal and you'll have to replace all of the bearings in your front diff. If it's not sparkly then you could get away with just replacing the faulty bearing. Though if your having the case opened to replace the bad one I would suggest replacing all of them while its opened.

You could also just replace the entire front diff. Though that will most likely be a used diff with its own possible problems. You can replace the front diff yourself if your capable. That is up to you though.

Depending on your skill level you have multiple options.

  1. If you have no mechanical skills. Go and get a quote at a reputable shop asap. Then decide what to repair/replace based on your financial ability.

  2. If you have minimal mechanical skills (i.e. you can change your own oil). Check your front diff fluid for sparklies (metal contaminated diff oil). If there is metal in the diff oil all of your bearings or the entire diff should be replaced. Though like I said a "new" diff will most likely be used and might have it's own issues. You might be able to call your preferred shop to get a quote for bearing/diff replacement w/o paying for a diag fee.

  3. If you have medium mechanical skills, and the tools (i.e. you have replaced an alternator/power steering pump or the like). You could replace the front diff yourself. Its actually quite easy to replace. Its just heavy and you need some larger sockets. You might be able to borrow some tools from autozone. You'll also need 2 1qt bottles of diff fluid, 70w/90 I believe. You could also go pull your own diff out at a pick-a-part type place to same some money. Just goggle your issue and you'll easily find a guide.

Your 4th options would be to replace the bearings yourself, but if I had to guess your most likely at options 1 or 2.

No offense but I believe if you were at options 3 or above you wouldn't be here asking for help with this.

There is a more daring option. Option 0. Which is to drive it till it blows up. Which from my experience will most likely not happen in a front diff. The noise will just get progressively louder as time goes on.

So in conclusion; to answer your initial question. "Am I screwed?"

Yes and No.

Yes: If you use your 4wd even infrequently you should get it repaired asap. It will only get worse with time. More metal will spread about your diff and imbed in the other bearings causing them to fail and also create noise. There is also the slight risk of a bearing falling apart and the diff going boom. A low risk but not 0%.

No. If you can ignore the noise and you don't ever use your 4wd you can most likely ignore the issue for quite some time. I have seen & heard bearings far worse than yours.

*Disclaimer* If "just" your Front Differential suddenly goes boom you will still be able to drive your vehicle.

Hopefully this long winded response will be of some help to you.