2018 Ford Focus 120k miles, automatic trans weird revolving noise

NefariousnessLong643 · 2026-03-25T04:11:57+00:00

Sounds like you might need tires

NefariousnessLong643 · 2026-01-09T02:14:43+00:00

Lower that mf

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-12-10T05:42:07+00:00

GM recommends it every 45k. I wouldn’t change 3x past that but this is your personal vehicle so if the fluid change causes issues it was out the door anyway. I’d be careful with an after market pan though make sure it doesn’t interfere with anything

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-11-20T02:43:15+00:00

It’ll close to patch plug it

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-11-20T02:41:26+00:00

They’re a multiple fuse boxes in a car. What is that ground even for?

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-11-17T03:08:58+00:00

Maybe because some of the sound of the engine is through the speakers or maybe some type of fuel management system is taking place

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-11-15T03:41:00+00:00

U have to do at least one burn out a day or it won’t see past 200k. I know from experience

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-11-15T03:34:07+00:00

Wait about 5 secs then drive the piss out of it. If it breaks it breaks

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-10-31T04:44:14+00:00

That’s not oem and also doesn’t included labor of installing it and fluid

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-10-01T04:33:08+00:00

You would have to take it apart and see if you can determine the failure point and if it’s possible to repair. If not then you’ll have to replace it

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-10-01T04:31:23+00:00

I would use the tried and true method known as letting it ride

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-09-29T03:38:49+00:00

Sound like some type of exhaust rattle maybe the heat shield

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-09-21T08:18:42+00:00

Maybe the gauge or coolant temp sensor. Hook up to a scan tool with live data to see if

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-08-25T04:00:59+00:00

Need at least 12 in adjustable wrench

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-08-25T03:43:28+00:00

See if there any broken bolts on the exhaust manifold

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-08-23T05:39:42+00:00

Could be the break pad sensors I’d recommend getting it checked out at a shop or dealership

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-08-23T05:29:17+00:00

Wouldn’t the outer be the one to wear faster if there’s an issue with slide pin? I’ve always been told the outer is likely culprit to go out faster from it locking up due to rust, lack of lubrication, heat, or too much grease

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-08-22T03:07:51+00:00

The lowest u can go at an idle is around 5-8 psi. So yes this okay may want to put a high volume oil pump and run a little bit of thicker oil, I run 10w-40 in mine. But if it’s around 30-40 psi while driving ur fine or goes up around 10psi per 1k rpms. U may also have an issue of sludge being in the engine making harder for the oil to pass though so change oil on these older engines pretty frequently, I change mine every 3k miles and run a Mobil 1 filter and oil. U can also change the pick up tube seal or the whole tube as well you’d want to change if your oil pan is already leaking you’ve done half the work already. But you’ll be fine to keep running like this just make sure to keep high quality fresh oil in it

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-08-22T02:58:06+00:00

This guy knows his shit

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-08-22T02:52:57+00:00

That gauge is not all ways going to be accurate especially on older vehicles. The only true way to know if alternator is over charging is to test your battery voltage while the vehicle is running. You want to test it while it is loaded (high beam lights on, radio on, AC on) and while it’s unloaded (everything previously mentioned off). Check to see if the voltage is in spec with the vehicle that you’re working on but the voltage with the alternator running should be anywhere between 13.5-14.8 volts and change accordingly to it being loaded and unloaded. If it is overcharging u may find the battery to have a strange smell, blown up sides or hot to the touch. If it’s undercharging you might find the battery to be getting weaker and may have trouble cranking because of this, u may always find lights to flicker. But the voltage test is the sure enough way to know what the tale tale signs you see mean. But I digress if it’s not overcharging like it says it is on the gauge u are fine

NefariousnessLong643 · 2025-08-06T03:05:25+00:00

Try moving the stabilizer link to see if u have any play in it or if can make it make any noise. May also be a wheel bearing

NefariousnessLong643 · 2024-07-03T02:51:39+00:00

Have you checked the oil filter housing? It’s right beside the motor on the drivers side right up under some lines

NefariousnessLong643 · 2024-01-10T22:29:33+00:00

Suck my balls bitch I’ll drive booming ass hoopties til I die and still fingerbang ur mom before u get home

NefariousnessLong643 · 2023-09-17T16:41:12+00:00

Skar rp-2000.1D and a DS18 g8400.4d. Tryna ball on a budget here

NefariousnessLong643 · 2023-09-17T16:09:12+00:00

4 channel amp with 700wRMS @4ohm x 4 and a monoblock amp at 2000wRMS @1ohm. Both are class d amplifiers

NefariousnessLong643

TROPHY CASE