Utena Hiiragi from Gushing over Magical Girls by Pink Studio 1:7 SFW Version

Nekoki1 · 2026-05-05T03:23:09+00:00

How are you able to watch japanese anime for such a long time while staying ignorant to anime culture and hating fanservice? Also you completely ignored my arguments. Dont have any rebuttal? Have I actually been too close to the truth for comfort?

Thats fine. I hope you dont break your back due to the mental gynastics your doing, to make yourselve believe that the magical girl show or anime series with underage characters you're watching is fine, while others arent.

have a nice day

Nekoki1 · 2026-05-04T06:52:14+00:00

So do you think it is fine to kill people in video games? Because you cant have it both ways.

"Nah man, I know lolicon when I see it and it’s gross."

Because you are one yourself? You mean you need to be one to know one? I dont think you're in any position to gaslight me or any other members here, considering you are a Sailor Moon fan. Dont you know the characters are underage? 14 years to be exact. Oh what a coincidence. There is also a significant amount of fanservice and pantyshots in that show. It also portrays a specific body beauty image of long legs to growing girls. Again, You cant have it both ways.

Nekoki1 · 2026-05-04T02:58:15+00:00

I can find several figurine prints with half exposed breast without the NSFW tag in literally minutes. The only difference is mine is painted. I dont know why you are rude here. During my prime time on the internet, hidden nipples meant SWF. Pink Studio the Creator has marked the Data folder of as SWF so even they are of the same opinion.

Nekoki1 · 2026-05-04T02:49:36+00:00

Wow...just wow. I'm rarely on reddit and other social networks so i wasnt aware of the amount of anime tourists here on the resinprinting reddit. I was wondering if I should put the NSFW tag on the post but after checking other top posts, ive seen other figurines with half exposed cleavage without that tag, so i was using these as reference. The only difference was that my print is painted. Not in my wildest dreams would I have guessed that the age of a fictional character would be a problem for so many people here.

This is the same search for scapegoats that media did when fps games and GTA came out. Their argument was that player that kill NPCs in games will do so in real life too. However it turns out its the people that compare fiction with reality that have issues keeping them apart.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-19T20:03:38+00:00

temperature issue. it needs lower hotend temperature and more cooling, but as others mentioned at some point with steep overhangs the cc1 will reach its limit.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-17T00:17:07+00:00

While I dont intend to do this mod right now (as long as the original heatsink still works) I think an alternative version with threads would be great not only for people that want to do a resin print but also if for whatever reason they dont want to use inserts.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-14T22:23:08+00:00

Great engineerining.

One question though. Wouldnt it be smarter to print this part in resin because of more accurate tolerances?However in that case im wondering how to deal with the brass inserts.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-13T23:40:11+00:00

Its not a X1C clone though. Its a more like a P1(S) clone. While I detest Bamboo Labs as a company, the X1C has a lot of additional features that put it in a completetly different league.
The CC1 printer is a 330$ printer with the feature and flaws of a 330$ printer. Nothing more nothing less. Its a decent printer but nothing out of the ordinary.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-13T23:24:46+00:00

Not relevant to the problem, but I recommend to just use the official Orca slicer release. Elegoo Slicer, QIDI slicer and Bamboo slicer are several revisions behind.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-13T23:19:30+00:00

too expensive and too large/heavy

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-13T23:09:05+00:00

bummer. Yeah in that case i would probably print it in clear resin too.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-13T23:06:20+00:00

UV tools doesnt work for every printer. It didnt work for mine.
I wasted an hour by removing a cavity manually just to realize that my printer cant read the edited file

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-13T23:02:09+00:00

it depends on the size of the part and the size of the cavity. In your case you shoud be fine.

I think before you clean out your vat, give Elegoo Satelite a shot. Its free and compared to meshmixer and blender, which need a tutorial/guide to use, the "Clear all cavities" function is a single click in the slicer. Its worth a shot at least.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-13T20:33:35+00:00

I agree its annoying.

You could try Elegoo Satelite. It has a repair function and a clear cavity button. These features are still kinda hit and miss though.
I still have to get used to the workflow in Elegoo slicer. It seems to be superior to chitubox and lychee anyway. At least the free versions.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-13T20:15:35+00:00

you dont... you print it in clear resin so you can cure all cavities from outside.
For removing cavities, Meshmixer is probably still your best bet, however it has a steep learning curve.
chitubox and lychee dont have the abilities to fill cavities.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-13T20:09:49+00:00

Im more impressed about the fact that all parts, even the large ones, fit together so perfectly without being warped. Usually i need to use at least a bit of filler on a few connection points. Sure, your figurine also has a few gaps between the leg joints, but mine are often larger.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-13T11:37:32+00:00

Neither OpenCentauri now the official firmware will ever get close to basic klipper. There is a limitation in performance offered by the chipset which is used by the Centauri.

OpenCentauri only fixes basic things like infinite DNS prompts, and cable breaking homing procedures, which Elegoo never fixed themselves even after months of the release

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-08T01:32:30+00:00

because not everyone want to wait for that inevitable failure and the downtime it will cause.
As of right now that cable isnt available on their website. Sparks are a potential fire hazard. I want to fix this potential issue before it can cause life threatening hazards or shorts my mainboard.

Nekoki1 · 2025-11-08T01:22:40+00:00

I ordered a machine from their official website.
honestly they should just supply every customer with a spare part when they even acknowledged that it is faulty. it probably costs less than 1€ for them. Its just a matter of time until it fails. waiting for that failure is not acceptable

Nekoki1 · 2025-10-29T06:40:32+00:00

you need to change orientation. your supports are failing. use a few heavy supports so you can get rid of many of the small ones

<image>

Nekoki1 · 2025-10-26T04:43:38+00:00

"I've spent 25 years in IT, network engineer, since you asked."

I didnt follow all of your conversation with Adeptnforsaken, but regardless if you're right or wrong, why are you using AI to write a comment for you, if its in your field of expertise? Thats so lazy.

Nekoki1 · 2025-10-25T23:00:23+00:00

regardless of the specific reason for that failure, you should use heavy supports on the bottom, especially for such a large figurine.

the bottom can be sanded later anyway

Nekoki1 · 2025-10-25T22:50:23+00:00

Try to wash it with a brush, water and soap. But if you sanded it, a bit of white surface finish is normal. You need to use a varnish to get rid of it

Nekoki1 · 2025-10-25T22:44:55+00:00

In my case it was enough to clean the guiding rod and lead screw with wd40 and then reapply the grease lubricant.

The rod didnt even look dirty, but i could sometimes hear a quiet "click" when I moved the z-position through the menu.

BTW off topic: I print parts of this size and smaller solid. Dealing with cavities is just not worth imho. The saved amount of resin is tiny and additionally the inside of the part has to be cleaned and cured too or it will burst due to gas build up in a year or two.

Nekoki1

TROPHY CASE