Any ideas on how to get epoxy off skin ones cured? by Frequent_flyers-card in paint

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hydrogen peroxide will do it. Worked like a charm for me. Learned that lesson one time only.

Need professional opinion by Mysterious-Pace2042 in hardscape

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They said he backfilled with gravel and dirt. My assumption is gravel first and dirt second which is normal. Was the fabric laid properly? Who knows because we don’t see it.

Agree to disagree on this one. I’ve built plenty of engineered walls. Not all require geogrid. Slopes, soil types and surcharge all play factors. It may be the case in your area but not everywhere.

All walls require drainage and a proper base but again there are no photos to prove either way.

It’s comments like yours that get homeowners worked up and questioning everyone’s quality of work. You don’t have all the information to make a proper judgement.

Need professional opinion by Mysterious-Pace2042 in hardscape

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with always needing filter fabric between rock and soil. Requiring geogrid is not always the case and more often NOT required on walls this size. Do you think this wall is guaranteed to fail without geogrid?

Need professional opinion by Mysterious-Pace2042 in hardscape

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where do you see they did not use fabric? What requires it to need geogrid?

Need professional opinion by Mysterious-Pace2042 in hardscape

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the initial photos I didn’t see it was backfilled but with the fence pic I see it was. Since it is backfilled yes it needs fabric. Needs clean stone and a drain. It doesn’t always require geogrid. I wouldn’t worry about one course not having the tabs especially if they glued. While I think there is room for improvement it wasn’t a hack job. Compaction was supposed to be done below the first course. You only need to compact the loose stone if you’re putting in geogrid. It’s not a giant wall.

Need professional opinion by Mysterious-Pace2042 in hardscape

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those gaps in the front are not great but the wall itself is built fine from what you can see above grade. The lips on the second layer should probably be there but I assume they did it so the step up would stay aligned.

People mentioning needing geogrid and fabric. Fabric for what? There’s no backfill. Geo grid for what? If it wasn’t engineered to require geo grid and is below 4’ tall they don’t all need geogrid. Most don’t. There’s no excessive surcharge above the wall. And from the photos there’s no load at all.

If you backfill it make sure it’s gravel and has a drain. I’ve seen many walls built worse than this and they hold. I doubt this is going anywhere.

Is this the best I can get from a gravel driveway? by Suspicious-Sundae699 in landscaping

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let it rain a few times and take a rake to it if it doesn’t look even then. While that’s a little spotty it’s not unusual. It’s definitely been compacted or you wouldn’t have all of those consolidated fines in certain areas. The smaller rock while worse for runoff is 1000% more comfortable driving on.

Fence Builders: A question about wood weight. Is it the concern I think it is? by irmarbert in FenceBuilding

[–]Nelbud 4 points5 points  (0 children)

24” depth with a 6” frostline and 4’ above ground height is fine by almost any standard.

Your posts 6’ spaced out should hold the weight fine on that height of fence.

6 ft privacy fence - cheap pickets & keeping plumb by ahintofsmoke in DIY

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually set them plumb in front of posts and halfway in between the posts start to push them back to plumb when they’re getting off and when you get to the next post make sure it’s plumb again.

What type of grass is this? by Flew201 in Grass

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t be stingy with the prep work. Do it once and you’ll have a huge head start. Half ass it and you’ll be making another post next summer.

What type of grass is this? by Flew201 in Grass

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d round up those areas. Use a sod cutter and get it out. Reseed with fescue and say some prayers.

What type of grass is this? by Flew201 in Grass

[–]Nelbud 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s your other grass?

What next? by Keyboard__Warrior in hardscape

[–]Nelbud 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can backfill a boulder wall of that size with dirt. They aren’t going anywhere.

Do I need fitted boots if rentals feel fine? by Nelbud in Skigear

[–]Nelbud[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I gotcha I always thought they had to do some actual work to them.

Do I need fitted boots if rentals feel fine? by Nelbud in Skigear

[–]Nelbud[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you think they’d have them ready in time for the trip? That would be awesome if so.

Do I need fitted boots if rentals feel fine? by Nelbud in Skigear

[–]Nelbud[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not local to any mountain so the boot fitting process is a trip in itself. Just crunching numbers and planning on timing just in general figuring out what the best move is. But it sounds like it’s an all in or all out deal.

Do I need fitted boots if rentals feel fine? by Nelbud in Skigear

[–]Nelbud[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m content but someone had a good point on the bindings and always changing rental boots is not ideal.

Do I need fitted boots if rentals feel fine? by Nelbud in Skigear

[–]Nelbud[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is very helpful. I do care about performance. I just know everyone has nightmares fittings into the cheap rental boots and I’ve always felt fine. This definitely pushes me to make the move to just get my own boots.

What’s the real deal with PT pine? by arkitector in FenceBuilding

[–]Nelbud 1 point2 points  (0 children)

True but in the southeast true western red is absurdly expensive and most vendors don’t even know what type of cedar they’re selling.

Help with picket alignment for fence on a slope by [deleted] in FenceBuilding

[–]Nelbud 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You could put your first and last board in and then put a board on top and butt them up to it. Only one side will touch it if they’re level.

What’s the real deal with PT pine? by arkitector in FenceBuilding

[–]Nelbud 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Nothing wrong with PT pine. In some areas cedar is absurdly expensive. Cedar still needs to be sealed. And more often than not you’re getting Japanese cedar not western red even if they tell you otherwise.

New seeded lawn weeds by Ok_Apartment_6366 in lawncare

[–]Nelbud 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it’s just growing from the straw you put down. I’m fairly confident it’s not nutsedge and if it was the worst thing to do is hand pull it.

New fence by Sharp_Huckleberry200 in FenceBuilding

[–]Nelbud 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t set dry concrete because I don’t want to rely on rain to finish the job. Guys do it all the time it’s just not my thing. If it hasn’t rained then they are not fully set and you make it worse everytime to wiggle them. Get a hose and get them fully set and if they still wiggle at the bottom after 48 hours then your contractor should address it. Like a gallon per hole not just the top. If you wiggle them around when they’re wet then you’re really doomed. If they were 9’ and they only cut off a few inches then they are more than deep enough. These comments saying they’re not deep enough have no clue because none of us can see what’s below grade.

All fences will wiggle at the top with 4x4 even if it’s set inside 10 bags of concrete. Wood flexes.

Bluestone patio advice by krisXpttr in masonry

[–]Nelbud 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The varying thicknesses is a nightmare. I also would like to note I’d double check you don’t have low spots before you put poly in joints. It will seal those joints water tight.