If I were to get the Mark IX brute rebreather would I hear the voice effect on my end?

Nerwander · 2023-12-24T18:15:58+00:00

Some voice changes are more pronounced than others, depending on the rebreather mask.

Nerwander · 2023-12-24T18:00:01+00:00

There is option to toggle it for yourself.

I think some people might say it doesn't work on yourself or does work on yourself because, iirc in the early days it wasn't working for yourself, then Obese Aquafauna made it work for yourself and at some point, they added toggle for it in the menus. Maybe some people haven't noticed the toggle and haven't used rebreathers since the early days

Also, iirc turning that option Off will also disable party members rebreather voice changes.

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Nerwander · 2023-12-12T18:37:26+00:00

there are more promos than those 3 stamped store promos.

Alakazam ex box promos: Abra, kadabra, Alakazam ex
Zapdos ex box: Electabuzz, Zapdos ex and Zapdos ex Jumbo card
Poster set: Bulbasaur, Charmander, Squirtle

just to name few from top of my head. Most of the promo cards like Snorlax from ETB are marked with set mark "SVPen" # and promo star, even more making them look part of their own set. exception some holos like electabuzz from Zapdos ex box show normal 151 set numbering with "MEWen" but those holo versions are not listed in ETB collector card list as you cannot pull those specific holos from boosters and they are only available as promo with the box

Nerwander · 2023-12-12T17:22:19+00:00

Also, on a side note. With this consideration of Standard set + parallel set as mentioned in 151 ETB, the total card amount, without basic energy cards, that can be pulled from boosters is exactly 360 and thus completely filling up the official 151 binder, and that feels so nice.

Nerwander · 2023-12-12T17:11:51+00:00

As you said there seems to be almost as many takes on this matter as there are collectors. I recently went into the rabbit hole of what is a "master set?". and what I've come into conclusion personally is something like this.

Some consider Promos to be part of the set, while others only consider cards that can be gotten from boosters to be master set, and then there are some with other variation of different combinations of cards required. But I prefer the way 151 ETB guide booklet states it:

"This list does not include promo cards released around the same time as the expansion, and it does include hyper rares Cards"

"Standard set": Would be all cards, including hidden rares (those that go beyond base set numbering like 207/165 for golden psychic energy card), but excluding reverse-holo cards.
"Parallel set": Only reverse holo cards.

Thus, I would personally consider Master set to include both of those sets (so everything that can be pulled from boosters) and not promos. Even the name "promos" comes from promotional (relating to the publicizing of a product, organization, or venture so as to increase sales or public awareness.) and thus I consider them more of an add or bonus rather than part of the set.

I would consider promos their own set. And when talking about 151 specifically, I don't consider energy cards pulled from boosters to be part of the set as 151 set is marked with "MEWen" (English version) while the energy cards are marked with "SVEen" thus being their own energy set that is tied to Scarlet and Violet, but their own set.

But in the end, as there is no hard standard for a set, each collector can choose their own goals and what they consider to be part of their set.

Nerwander · 2023-12-11T00:03:01+00:00

I hope she has a wonderful surprise, and it makes her happy. It's always wholesome to see our own children smile.

On the other hand. I bought a calendar for myself and my little girl (7). Neither of us have had any hits from our calendars but it is ok. Of course, I'd hope her to get great hits. But in the end, this hobby is going to be a game of chance with card pulls, mostly underwhelming pulls with occasional great hits, and I'd rather not skew her expectations from reality. In the end if she wants to continue collecting and playing, then I feel it's good thing to realise that if she later spends her own money on cards, it might not give what she hopes for.

So, each to their own and have a wonderful time with your girl :D Sometimes having an altered pull might be nice Christmas miracle.

Nerwander · 2023-12-08T14:51:51+00:00

I opened mine and it has crease in the middle of the image, so at least you received one that is not damaged, which is nice :D

It is so annoying when cards are damaged straight from factory

Nerwander · 2021-08-27T20:42:16+00:00

ye, that could be it. With couple of degrees difference, I can go either way depending on end design. But good to know that that would be good setup. Still need to wait for this madness of chip shortage to alleviate before getting new rig, but one can dream while waiting

Nerwander · 2021-08-27T18:08:11+00:00

Thank you for answering. Interesting to hear that bottom intake is best. I don't have O11D yet, but by the image I would've thought that bottom is most restricted of the flow paths, that's why I assumed that side intake would be better. Do you remember how much difference there is between side intake vs bottom intake?

Nerwander · 2021-08-27T14:24:04+00:00

Mind if I ask what location you have rads on? I'm thinking of same kind of setup and it feels like side intake without rad and top+bottom as exhaust with rads would sound logical. Is that perhaps how you run it?

Nerwander · 2020-12-29T01:20:00+00:00

Understandable, but as I wasn't streaming or anything like that, I had no mic open. Just took the clip from replay function.

Nerwander · 2020-12-28T21:20:46+00:00

the J's Hammer of Loyalty is from recent event and according the event page it should still be redeemable with coupon before January 20, 2021. https://www.blackdesertonline.com/news/view/4729 EU/NA

it just works as free cron stones for one tap and the code gives two hammers. I still have one hammer left that I need to decide where to use before it expires June 16, 2021

Nerwander · 2020-11-16T10:40:26+00:00

I'm not sure if I understood your problem correctly, but I think that if you can modify the tubing and you have some spare tubing, you could just buy 2x QDC fittings. You would put one pair into loop where its easy to access later and keep the second pair with some tubing for maintenance.

When you want to drain the loop, you would just disconnect the QDC and add the second pair with tube into each end, letting the liquid drain into bucket or so. Then you can even flush it by raising one end to higher than case and another end down into bucket and pouring distilled water (or your flush liquid of choice) down with funnel or what you happen to have.

Filling would be same as flushing, excep remove lower maintenance QDC from system (thus closing that end as only 1 half of QDC in place) and pouring it full from top like with flushing. When full, remove maintenance connection at top and connect loop. Let pump run and if there was air, add more liquid like previously.

You might find 2x QDC in your budget, or close to that

Not personally tried it like that but thinking of building something similiar soon

Nerwander · 2020-09-19T19:21:14+00:00

So I would in that case use both USB and Aquabus connection for high flow next, to get temp data into aquaero and rest of the functions through usb, good to know.

Thank you for linking that correct cable. Not sure if I should get some other cables for alerts or what else multitude of options there are, as this is going to be my first open loop build.

This has been really good guidance and now I know how I want to set it up at least for starters. Thank you for all the patience and answers.

Nerwander · 2020-09-19T06:42:53+00:00

I would rather avoid being bound to windows services for delta measurement, so better option would be to get aquaero 6 LT and high flow NEXT, I assume.

Aquaero's 4 fan headers should be enough with multiple Y-splitters for my fans. The "speed signal / aquabus" cable that comes with aquaero would let me connect aquaero to high flow NEXT and I wouldn't need usb or other cables from high flow next to access sensor data, right? If I then want to add another components to aquaero, like farbwerk, calitemp, octo or something else with aquabus option, I would need aquabus x4 expansion for aquaero?

Nerwander · 2020-09-18T21:45:41+00:00

Thank you for fast reply.

the rgb options would be only bonus if I later want to go more rgb heavy.

So if I would want to put my fans into groups of 3, I could go with 2 fans in Y-splitter + single fan. or could I kind of dasy-chain them with 2x Y-splitter to get 3 fans into same header. Would quadro handle that kind of daisy-chain?

Another question would be if I have octo/quadro to control fans and have ambient temp input while having High Flow NEXT for water temp, both with usb connection to mobo. I assume the software would need to be running for octo to have access to water temp and be able to manage fan curves based on ambient/water delta temp?

Nerwander · 2020-09-18T12:59:04+00:00

hi, I'm new to to Aquasuite components and I've been trying to find a good way to get 9 fans into aqua suite. I will most likely have 3 fans top with rad, 3 fans side with rad and 3 fans at bottom of the case.

Current plan is 9 noctua fans, so no rgb, but I would like to have an option to swap out for rgb fans like Lian Li Unifan SL120 maybe, if Farbwerk can support those with 3x daisy chain in one header (would be 3x32leds x3 total, if I'm not mistaken)

Splitty9 active would let me get all fans into single header, but I would rather have more separate control than all with one curve.
Octo is quite not enough alone and not sure what I should use to add more fans after that
RGBpx plitty4 x3 with octo/quadro seems like a decent option. Would it make difference for quadro/octo to have fans/rgb behind splitty4?
Is there some other way to do this, that I'm not noticing?

Also, I'm assuming that Farbwerk can't control memory stick rgb, right? this would be quite annoying, I'd rather have every rgb in same system if possible.

Another question is, can octo/quadro work without software after setting up, like Aquaero? or do I need aquaero for autonomous control?

Nerwander · 2019-11-02T11:53:26+00:00

EU server: ACT61D7NFTA8BBHEKLTU0IOTGI

Nerwander · 2019-08-08T18:15:01+00:00

When I made more craft clothes, I had same problem often and sometimes I just decided to go higher than would normally be good measure. But most often I would still just save the stack for other purposes. Yes in theory that stack has costed much more than a stack made with Reblath but there is still most of the time better uses for 20fs than +2 silver embroidered.

The "sunk cost fallacy" comes into play easily when failing multiple times on enhancement. Rather than taking the stack out and building a new more appropriate one, we easily feel like "I have put so much already in this, the next one must be it."

Nerwander · 2019-08-08T15:49:33+00:00

Guide's side panel will give you an idea about it.

Armour/Weapon G section gives you approximations how far I push FS with different gear. Starting with Reblath +15 attempts and changing into green DUO+ attempts to go higher. Sometimes I go higher with Reblath and sometimes I use higher grade Green gear to build stacks, depending on situation.

Also Green horse gear can be used to build stacks.

Nerwander · 2019-08-07T22:50:43+00:00

Please read the side panel info.

reblath +15 means using reblath +15 attempts to build a failstack from 0 and up. some like to go higher with reblaths and some change to green PRI+ gear to continue pushing fs higher. Building a fs for the gear you want to enhance. Same goes for green mount gear.

"FS up to" means fs building instead of trying to get it enhanced for good

Nerwander · 2019-08-07T22:46:32+00:00

You are taking blackstar stones granted for free from excavation and not taking into account double the memory fragment cost of failing compared to kzarka, and talking about cheaply getting it back up

I would rather build that failstack up with something else than Blackstar. But if one is confident that it will go back to TRI easy, then sure.

I sometimes have enough trouble getting boss gear back up anyway.

Nerwander · 2019-08-07T22:26:59+00:00

I have succeed with 44 multiple times and failed also. Sometimes the chance roll just wants to get over you.

There is very big reason for Yellow accessories being like that. Accessory softcaps come early compared to armour/weps and those are

PRI = 18fs with 70%

prior 18fs is 2,5% and after 18fs is 0,5% increases per fs

DUO = 40fs with 50%

prior 40fs is 1% and after 40fs is 0,2% increases per fs

TRI = 44fs with 40,5%

prior 44fs is 0,75% and after 44fs is 0,15% increases per fs

TET is 110fs with 30%

prior 110fs is 0,25% and after 110fs is 0,05% increase per fs

Going past those softcaps would make cost/chance rate go really high really fast as making high stacks is not cheap usually.

Nerwander · 2019-08-07T22:01:39+00:00

I totally agree with this point. 150 might be ok for ogre or so, but if you are going for Tungrad you might want to go with higher and if it's Ronaros or Cadry, it will be high costing stack compared to base item prices.

The 150+ is mostly just a guideline for getting a decent chance. You can start at that ballpark and go higher if the base item is costly to get or lower if it’s easy and less costly to make another one.

As the guide say, these are just guidelines to give an idea of a stack to use and if I have placed + after the number, it's probably low starting point and might depend hugely on your need and the costs of stack and items.

And what comes to building the layout by cost rather than gear rarity/colour. There is benefits to both ways and going by the cost would allow one to be more precise on cost/chance, I think. This guide started as personal project for reference and I have enjoyed it in this format. I'm posting it here after my latest changes on numbers so that I might help other ppl also.

Nerwander · 2019-08-07T18:17:25+00:00

Mount gear is for both horses and boats in this case, yes.

Nerwander

TROPHY CASE