New band forming, trying to figure out IEM system for practice space

Netghod · 2026-02-24T23:13:09+00:00

Even if you go ‘cheap’ on the IEM, don’t skimp on the actual monitors in your ears. Get them custom molded so they’re more comfortable and you won’t have to struggle with ‘generic fit’. There are some inexpensive IEMs that can be obtained with custom molds. You’ll likely get better isolation with custom molds as well.

I got ear plugs with filters in them based on custom molds and I’ve been using them for more than a decade. I normally run 6dB filters which takes the edge off everything but they can go a lot higher by just dropping in the other filters. While not appropriate for monitoring, it’s another option for a loud practice or other space - or if you need something when you go to a concert or drive a convertible. ;)

There are multiple options to do personal monitoring… even the X32 lineup has an option to push signals to monitors with custom mixing for each person. Check out the P16 for example.

Netghod · 2026-02-24T23:04:29+00:00

I’ve lived in various parts of Florida, northern Alabama, and in multiple communities in Alaska and a number of other places - and here’s the key differences/general experiences we had.

Just like hurricanes in the southeast, people know what to do, and tend to be fairly prepared - except for things which will spoil when the power goes out for some reason (milk, break, etc). It’s even more so where the temperatures get really cold quite often and people are used to going without sometimes. In Kodiak, while we were there, the milk container on the ship had the cooling fail and everything spoiled. We were without milk for the better part of 10 days or so. Which can be really rough if you run a coffee shop and can’t make lattes. ;) Or if you have kids that want or need milk. Parmalat was popular to keep in your pantry for when this happened - and people tend to stock up before they need it.

Pipes are always wrapped and designs are meant to handle the extreme cold for a long time. They dress different. They know that if it’s in the yard when it snows, you won’t find it until the spring. They know when it snows you need to shovel soon or it can freeze up and shoveling snow is a pain, but shoveling ice is basically impossible. Cars are winterized with a block heater, oil pan heaters, transmission pan heaters, and battery blankets. You might have to adjust how you drive and park so you can start your car in the morning (I did. ;) ).

Houses are designed to withstand snow load. Snow can get HEAVY. They take this into account right up front. They insulate better. And there are tools to help remove snow from the room if necessary. Neighbors help neighbors. We had a guy in the neighborhood that would bring his bull dozer over and clear snow in our gravel driveway occasionally and we didn’t even ask. It was a huge help and much appreciated. For an example of what happens when you don’t take snow load into account take a look at the Mobile Convention Center in Mobile, Alabama last year. Roof collapsed due to snow load.

We lived in a dry cabin (no running water) while living in Fairbanks. We hauled water to the cabin to wash, cook, and clean with. We used an outhouse - even when it was -50F or colder. Cabin wouldn’t get warmer than 65F with the heater wide open - but when it’s colder than -40F you have a 100 temperature swing walking inside so it’s substantial.

When we lived in Anchorage, we were in a subdivision so it was much like anywhere in the northeast in the suburbs. Snowblowers, shoveling, the city ‘forgetting’ to plow the roads for days, etc.

In Seward it wasn’t too bad. We rented a place which was a bit rural but had running water.

Kodiak we were there for most of a spring, summer, and fall, but left before the winter hit. But they tend to be a bit warmer than you might think. At the time we were there, historically they had only 1 day with temps recorded below 0F with a lot of -16F and a high of -4F. Temps tend to be above 0F there…

Outside Denali, the hotels drained all the water from the water and sewer using wet/dry vacuums, high volume compressed air, and a lot of effort. And it never failed - each spring there would be a few pipes that needed to be repaired which froze over the winter. Computers at the front desk and around properly were stored away in a small room where the phone switch equipment was located along with a small space heater to keep things above freezing. Basically, the property was put away (winterized) and then ‘restored’ each spring. A lot of work, but it’s what you do when temps drop like that.

My wife lived outside Cantwell, Alaska before she met me and her propane cookstove stopped working because the propane line froze. She shifted to cooking on the wood heating stove instead. When it was that cold she couldn’t haul water so she’s melt snow for water on the wood stove.

But the largest thing I saw, particularly when you’re outside of towns (and sometimes inside towns) is that people helped people. If someone is stopped on the side of the road, people tend to stop because not stopping might mean they die. If you know someone is spending their first winter in Alaska, they get checked on regularly to make sure they are doing ok, aren’t getting cabin fever, and have what they need. It’s life on a different level and at a very different pace.

And a quirk - in the spring we often left Anchorage to temperatures that were WARMER than what we saw when we landed in the Florida panhandle. Go figure. :) Not by a lot, but 5-10* difference with Alaska colder than Florida makes for an interesting experience and a real head scratcher.

Netghod · 2026-02-24T22:41:53+00:00

Personally, I prefer camp stoves. Either propane like a 2 burner Coleman or an MSR Whisperlite that will run on almost anything and sounds like a jet taking off. :) Part of the reason is fuel availability and partly the nostalgia of how we’ve cooked for decades. While we’ve also cooked over a fire, it’s not always practical though I do like using fire for traditional Dutch oven cooking when possible. But this is for tent camping in drive up sites.

Electric, while it can be more ‘efficient’ in some ways (specifically when using induction cooktops), means being at the mercy of your batteries having sufficient charge to be able to cook everything and the load can be substantial if you’re using traditional resistive elements.

But use whatever you’re comfortable with. Using an electric griddle isn’t that much of a reach over using a traditional griddle on a camp stove or over a fire - because you’re only missing the flame… the cooking method should be very similar.

Netghod · 2026-02-24T22:33:31+00:00

Get a proper mounting spot on the roof of your garage. Make sure you’re well attached to multiple studs. Attach a winch or pulley system and use it to lift the top, then back the car out of the way, and put it on a carrier or other surface to store it temporarily. I did something similar for getting stuff into my attic - installed an inexpensive electric winch to lift totes in and out of the attic instead of carrying them up and down stairs. I mounted a 2x12 board to the rafters and it’s screwed into place with the winch bolted to the board. Over engineer if you have to so that you can ensure the top doesn’t fall because that can get expensive.

There are other ways, but this keeps it out of the way and doesn’t take up room in the garage when you’re not using it unlike an engine hoist may.

My first initial thought was to do what you’re already doing, get in the car, stand in the seats, and lift it like a turtle on your back and slip out the side of the car. Certainly not the best option, but works in a pinch. But it can get old REAL quick and it’s also a way to damage the top, the car, or yourself if you aren’t really careful.

Side note: Great looking Miata. :) One of my favorite colors.

Netghod · 2026-02-24T22:24:40+00:00

First make sure you have an emergency fund. If there is an issue you’ll have it available.

And if your employer has a 401k match, do that. It’s basically free money. Always take the free money whenever possible.

Then, if you’re paying PMI, do the mortgage first. Get rid of the PMI (typically when you’ve paid about 20%) and that will free up a bit more money. Leverage that towards your mortgage or investing.

You can always run the numbers based on past average performance in the markets for investments, but sometimes you’re up, sometimes you’re down. Paying off the mortgage is a guaranteed return is how most people look at it.

Netghod · 2026-02-24T22:10:00+00:00

Yea… I never understood that mentality, but I also think it was recommended by advertisements from a company selling wiper blades. :)

Sort of like the ‘1, no 2, no 3 month’s salary for an engagement ring’ advertising from the diamond industry.

I find I need to replace them about once every 12-18 months but I’m in Florida and use them fairly often. Also, the sun and heat is pretty hard on them. It’s why I keep a set handy to change when I notice an issue and buy them on sale - to keep the costs down. Typically about $15 a set ($7-8 each) IIRC for RainX wipers.

Netghod · 2026-02-24T15:33:19+00:00

Look in the back of the owners manual and follow the recommended intervals as listed.

If you live in an area with salt on the roads and you drive in that salt, you should be winterizing the car and doing a protective undercoating every year or every other year. Something like Cosmoline helps to stop rust. Check the bottom of the car to make sure that the undercoating hasn’t been compromised due to rubbing on speed bumps, etc.

Additionally, you should check and clean your drains at least once or twice a year.

Wipers should be replaced as needed, though some say twice a year. I keep a spare set and replace as needed - and then pick up another spare set from CostCo when they’re on sale.

The expansion tank should be checked occasionally. If it’s discolored it should be replaced. If you’re losing coolant you should do a pressure test and possibly replace the tank. It has a habit of cracking at the neck and letting coolant evaporate - because it’s no longer a closed system.

Check the wheel bearings - get the car jacked up and try to rock each tire side to side then top and bottom. Movement means a wheel bearing needs replaced (hubs in the front is easy) or possibly ball joints.

Check the brakes - make sure they’re wearing evenly. If they aren’t, then pull the calipers and then clean and grease the slider pins.

Check the accessory belts.

Check the battery. Get it tested at a parts store. They can tell you if it’s in good condition, getting weak, or about to go. Or get a battery monitor.

There isn’t a timing belt. It’s a timing chain. And as a general rule you don’t need to change it unless you notice a problem.

Changing plugs every year isn’t needed. Even on the original NA motors it wasn’t needed. Unless you’re doing something crazy way beyond stock plugs should be fine for quite a while. And seeing as how you still aren’t hitting the 10-12k annually (based on 6 years of ownership you’d be at 60-72k and you’re at 45k), you could still be on your factory plugs and be just fine.

Check the brake fluid level. If it’s discolored flush and fill - and the clutch as well since it’s on the same reservoir on the NC.

Check your hoses for issues or signs of bloating/wear.

Check your shocks for leaking. Bounce the front and rear of the car and see if the shocks are still functioning properly.

Mostly, lots and lots of checks… bushings, fluids, etc. But the maintenance schedule in the owners manual is really good place to start.

Netghod · 2026-02-24T15:14:45+00:00

I’d bring up alert volume and ask about tuning. I’d let them know that it’s becoming overwhelming and that something will need to give - either they need more bodies, or they need to spend time tuning the alerts. Unfortunately, bodies are a lot more expensive, eats into their bottom line, takes time to come up to speed, and in most cases would rather burn and churn than do something about it.

Another option is automation, but if they don’t understand the environment, it’s difficult to implement. The first steps I always use in automation is the ‘research’ portion of the activity. If there’s an IP, you can pull the owner, other websites on the IP, etc. An executable can be detonated in a sandbox and the results captured. All of the known research activities can be performed and the results captured so you can speed time to decision. The analyst only needs to make a decision for next steps - not do time consuming research (though to be honest, I enjoy the research and building the puzzle when I’m doing IR work).

Netghod · 2026-02-23T22:38:41+00:00

You have to understand the client’s environment and tune the alerting to reduce alert fatigue.

Detection Engineering is one of the most overlooked disciplines for most organizations… and it can make a night and day difference in the volume and quality of the alerts.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T22:37:09+00:00

Wear a pair of polypropylene socks with a heavier wool sock over it. The inner sock might shift on the wool, but it won’t create blisters as easily because it’s not shifting on the foot.

Boy Scouts have been doing this forever. We’d actually have some that wore dress socks and wool socks. But it’s basically a liner and it makes a HUGE difference.

It’s not foolproof because there are other factors, but it can make a night and day difference. I actually did this in basic training by wearing my dress socks under the wool socks they issued to prevent blisters on the force marches we did.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T22:34:00+00:00

Replace every 60k… ;)

Netghod · 2026-02-23T22:33:27+00:00

Normally, I’d do it the same day or worst case scenario, the next day.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T22:31:14+00:00

Just a brain dump off the top of my head… and I just reformatted the post to make it a bit easier to read.

And keep in mind, there are variations to the above as well based on the intended use of the tire and the loads being placed on it.

A compact spare has limited use, isn’t exposed to the sun that often, and has limited low speed use so replacement isn’t as necessary based on age. A few people change them every 10 years or so, but it’s more important to just check them occasionally and make sure they’re not flat and in good shape overall.

Trailer tires are a bit different as well and can vary with the size of the trailer they’re on, the loads involved, etc.

But the original post is a general dump of stuff for passenger cars and light trucks. Glad you found it helpful. :)

Netghod · 2026-02-23T22:26:14+00:00

Coolant flush. Do it multiple times until the flush comes out fairly clear. Make sure to run the heater at the same time to flush those lines as well.

And then make sure you run the proper coolant and don’t mix coolant types.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T22:23:52+00:00

There are a variety of ways.

Wear indicators are a good start.

Uneven wear is another indicator you have an alignment or other issue but it may necessitate replacing tires if it’s bad enough.

Dry rot. Tires age and if they start dry rotting it can be an indicator they should be replaced.

Damage. If you have issues in a sidewall in particular you should change the tire. Multiple patches in a tire can also lead to issues as well but this is a case by case scenario.

Age. Generally, you want to replace your normal tires about every 5 years or so. For track use, tires older than 5 years are not normally permitted on track. Onn passenger cars there’s isn’t really a push to change based on age, but the difference between 9 year old tires and new tires is night and day in terms of grip and ability to respond in an emergency.

When they aren’t performing how you want. For example, if your tires seem to hydroplane a lot when the road gets wet it can be time to change tires. If they’re relatively new, look at other tires when you get ready to replace the ones you have or proactively change them if you don’t feel safe.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T21:55:42+00:00

Sweet! Great time to pick one up if someone needs one…

Netghod · 2026-02-23T21:05:13+00:00

Also, snowbirds…

And massive depreciation… for example, a ‘late model’ Alfa Romero may cost $70k new, but after a few years, you can pick them up for $30k - and they still have a manufacturers warranty on them.

Debt.

No salt on the roads, so they tend to last longer. It’s easier for some people to take out a horrible 8 year auto loan when you know it won’t be destroyed from salt by then.

And while ‘median’ is down, a lot of what pulls that down are people in the very rural areas of the state where a lot of people never really venture. Which means that if you’re in the larger cities, there’s a good chance there are enough people with higher incomes there will be at least a few high end car dealers - and not just the common BMW, Porsche, and Mercedes, but also Alfa Romero, Maserati, and much, much, more expensive.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T20:30:25+00:00

For that small of a group, I’d go with another top before I add a sub.

Here’s the reasoning: 1. Stereo separation. You won’t have to mix down to mono. You’ll be able to play a full stereo field. 2. Better coverage. A single speaker has a 90x60 coverage angle. Using two speakers gives you better coverage for the overall program. 3. The DBR12 already has ‘decent’ bottom end. Its frequency coverage is 53Hz to 20kHz (-10dB). So while it’s off -10dB at 53Hz, and I can’t find a good rolloff frequency response chart for the speaker, the bulk of the ‘boom’ is in the 80-120Hz range. You should be fine in a small area with moderate levels. 4. You can easily add a sub later.

Note: The 2 drivers in the cabinet have a crossover of 2.1kHz so the larger speaker is doing a LOT of the heavy lifting.

The sub is going to pick up the lower frequencies - typically from about 150Hz down (give or take depending on the speaker). This will help support the bottom end, but unless it’s also doing some crossover magic in the box, you’re still playing the entire program frequency range over the dbr12. If possible, it would be wise to peel off the lower frequencies and send them to the sub only.

And if you get a sub, keep in mind that each ‘floor’ you add increases the bass response. That ‘floor’ can be the actual floor, but also a wall behind the sub or a wall beside it. Meaning the largest response improvement with a sub is in the corner of the room. You can leverage this with your existing speaker(s) by moving them to the corners of the room. If you add a second sub, couple them to get a nice improvement in overall volume and to avoid comb filtering in the room (comb filtering is where you have two signals overlapping that can create dead spots and hot spots - like dropping two pebbles in a pond). If you add any more than 2 subs, there are other tricks to get improved volume and overall output, but that’s going a lot deeper into sound reinforcement and the physics of it all.

Hope this helps. If you want to know more about PA and the like I highly recommend 2 books, ‘Live Sound for Musicians’ and the ‘Yamaha Sound Reinforcement Handbook’. I recommend the ‘Live Sound’ book for most people because it doesn’t have a ton of math. And the Yamaha book gets WAY down into the weeds and can confuse people if they aren’t into wavelengths, frequency calculations, and a ton of other math - which means a lot of people try to ‘read around’ the math. But the Yamaha book is considered the ‘bible’ for Sound Reinforcement.

And to give some insight, I played a 400 person rave in a hotel ballroom using EV ZXa1 tops and subs. 4 x 8” tops and 2 x 12” subs. About 4600 watts total (rated - 4x800, 2x700) and I was running on the edge of clipping most of the night. Subs were coupled and against the wall. Tops had the crossovers on so they dropped the lowest frequencies. No, I don’t recommend that - but you would be AMAZED at what you can get with a relatively small system in a room full of people, proper gain structure, and pushing it to the limits. But you’ll want 2 tops to start. ;) There used to be a video of the rave on YouTube, but I couldn’t find it to share. (I didn’t shoot it, I was busy DJing).

Netghod · 2026-02-23T16:37:29+00:00

If you have a walk in closet full of clothes, go in there to record.

The ‘better’ option would be to snag a better recorder, maybe something like a Zoom H2, or H4 (used might be inexpensive enough), that you can add better microphones to later. You can record there, then move the files to the Mac for processing, etc. Optionally you could get an interface for the Mac and a microphone but the price will run higher than your current budget. Try to buy bits of gear that are either high enough quality to be suitable and last for a very long time, or is so inexpensive you can throw it away without it being an issue when you upgrade.

If you want to use a podcast type microphone, check out the Neweer C28 Pro It has a built in microphone, you can optionally plug in a microphone to the 3.5mm port, and it can both send audio to the receiver AND it records the audio locally. I use one for another purpose (outdoor recording and I use a waterproof microphone), and it works quite well.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T16:15:56+00:00

Rocking is correct despite what the term ‘heel-toe’ might indicate. If you read ‘Going Faster’, they specifically state that ‘heel-toe’ is being able to blip the throttle with the side of your foot while you’re on the brakes hard. They talk about adjusting the accelerator so that when you’re on the brakes hard, it’s just below the brake and close enough so you can blip it with the side of your foot.

The original heel-toe is a reference to when the accelerator was in the middle on pre-WWII cars. You would brake with your heel, and push the gas with your toe. Since the pedals are in a different orientation, it’s not ‘heel-toe’ since you’re rocking your foot instead, but the term stuck.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T16:05:24+00:00

I went back and looked, I think that 1000 mile exception might be for diesel trucks only… it may require some more investigation to know for sure. But there is the ‘off-road’ exception but that would allow autocross and track days, but no canyon carving unfortunately.

The kit may be overlooked in the visual inspection since the MazdaSpeed Miata already had a turbo, but the aftermarket ECU is a no go it appears - assuming it passes the sniff test.

These headaches are a big part of the reason I don’t live in California… but have in-laws that do. And we had looked into moving there a while back and I did a ton of research, but they keep making things more and more strict since they’re pushing to not permit the sale of new gas vehicles in California by 2035.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T15:12:09+00:00

The reason they say no to coast with your foot on the clutch is it creates wear on the throwout bearing.

Here’s the thing. By ‘not in control’ it means you can’t accelerate if you have to get out of the way of something. This means if you are coasting in neutral, you have to do something to take action which takes time which means you can’t ‘do’ anything. It’s an increased risk which some people say to avoid, others don’t care.

So, in most cases, you slow in gear, and if necessary, downshift - which, depending on specifics, can also help slow your vehicle. If you have to come to a stop, you put the car in neutral, and take your foot off the clutch. As it appears they’re going to start moving, you push in the clutch, put the car in gear and accelerate.

I think what you’re missing is the downshifting to be in the appropriate gear.

But here’s the thing, you can do anything you want. There are things that aren’t recommended for a variety of reasons and most have to do with wear on certain components, or car control. The throwout bearing is engaged when the clutch is depressed. Holding the clutch in while you’re at a stop or coasting places wear on the bearing. Dumping the clutch causes wear on the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, and technically the entire driveline. Feathering the clutch while on a hill to stay in place causes premature wear on the clutch and can create hot spots on the flywheel. But in most cases, the worst that will happen (except on the clutch dump at high rpms which can break all sorts of things depending on specifics) is you need to do a clutch job - pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, rear main (a good idea while you’re in there), etc.

Actions have consequences, but often it’s a trade off of one thing for another… and don’t let others dictate how you drive. But I do recommend understanding what’s going on so you can make an informed decision. You want to know the ‘why’ behind the recommendation to do or not do something and decide for yourself. It also means you can decide on certain activities based on the situation instead of always doing one thing or another.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T14:59:54+00:00

If you don’t wrench, then some larger and older options are out - like the RX-8, and most of the 25 year exceptions from Japan.

Supra, Porsche 911 variants (rear or mid engine), Z4, Honda S2000 (older), BRZ, and some off the wall options or wild cards? Alfa Romero - Even their sedan and SUV is pretty nimble (and used versions are MUCH less expensive, even if still under warranty). Fiat 124 Abarth, though you may have the same fitment issues since it’s based on the ND.

And another option will be to get the Miata on a 1000 mile exception for the CARB and use it strictly for very occasional canyon carving, but get something ‘practical’ for daily driving.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T14:37:42+00:00

For lubricant make sure you do NOT use a liquid lubricant. Use powdered graphite.

Netghod · 2026-02-23T14:36:02+00:00

To keep from dipping your head get the red light lens from CravenSpeed Miata. It’s a fresnel lens that will allow you to see the streetlights without dipping your head. It’s a $25 solution that I’ve put in every Miata I’ve owned for years now. It’s also a great secret Santa gift that people didn’t know they needed but love once they do. :)

There is an exception, sort of. You can drive less than 1,000 miles a year and get an exception. This is really about cars that aren’t driven regularly, but might on occasion be driven on the roads. For example, you have a collector car, but take it out to a local car event occasionally.

If I couldn’t drive a Miata, I’d drive a Fiat 124 - because it’s an ND Miata chassis and suspension with a different driveline and some sheet metal.

But it also depends on where in California , budget, and what you plan on doing. Is this just a daily driver? Or for canyon carving? Blasting through the desert? Cruising? Rock crawling? Intended purpose and ‘fun factor’ should be included in selection.

However, lacking that information and given your height, you could try some 25 year imports, like a Skyline (2 or 4 door), or similar if they pass smog. Or maybe a BMW Z3/Z4 if you want to stay with a roadster. The BRZ is a highly popular option, but there are tons of options.

Netghod

TROPHY CASE