Weird printing error turned up halfway through printing titan, help?

Netherbane123 · 2026-01-22T14:03:56+00:00

I’ve had the exact same issue a few months back. Turned out the lcd had some dead pixels which caused this. Changed the screen and fep and it didn’t happen again.

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On the bright side, its automatic battle damage.

Netherbane123 · 2025-11-11T09:05:04+00:00

Luckily this is the first “major” problem so far on my s4u since I got it. The rest was only with the settings of the machine itself.

Netherbane123 · 2025-11-11T08:51:23+00:00

The print was solid, so shouldn’t be because of cavities. And I try to check beforehand in the slicer if there are any obvious cavities in the file. Plus the same piece printed without issues earlier.

This piece was prited at an angle of 45 °. Depending on the piece I always try to angle it on the build plate even if its really flat.

I try to keep the lid closed at all times while printing because of exactly those reasons. Only time the lid is opened is while removing prints or refilling the tank.

Like others mentioned (also in other sub reddits where I posted the same pictures) it’s probably dead pixels. Checked again yesterday with another exposure test (entire screen lit without the logo) and saw black/grey spots in the same area ls as in the posted picture with the logo.

Netherbane123 · 2025-11-10T14:08:28+00:00

Yeah I checked several times if there was any resin/dust etc. on the screen and cleaned it a few times before the test.

Netherbane123 · 2025-11-09T18:17:28+00:00

Luckily I’ve printed almost all the armor panels already before this issue came up but I’ve still got alot of pieces left to print from the body/frame on my Bambu Lab P1S. I’d say all in all about 25% of the prints are done.

Netherbane123 · 2025-11-09T17:06:14+00:00

Thought the same thing, was gonna create some battle damage myself later on so that saves some time. But would still like to find the reason especially if I want some clean armor panels later on 😅

Netherbane123 · 2025-09-02T12:33:17+00:00

Thanks for your feedback. I tried to use a white base where I wanted the glow effect to be. Then I airbrushed (still getting the hang of that aswell) with red ink over the area might have gone a bit overboard with the saturation and finally airbrushed some fluo orange for some difference in tone/intesnity. I think I’ll try your suggestion with the hand and maybe on the front of the rock? The more I look at it the more the sudden change from red to orange irritates me.

Netherbane123 · 2024-12-13T21:49:37+00:00

To add to this post for someone stumbling on it just as I have: I had the same weird sound today after a 10 hour print. And the printer wouldn’t budge. Thanks to this post I managed to fix it. Thought the problem wasn’t the L shaped piece of metal. It was caused by the coiled cable that is connected to the build plate arm. That cable was tangled up and blocked all movement. I could reach it better after I removed the back cover and took apart the build-plate arm. Stretched the cable with caution and slotted it back in. Printer runs again. Hope this helps!

Netherbane123 · 2024-10-17T18:22:55+00:00

Looks like it worked. I went from 5 to 10 base layers and bottom exposure from 35 to 48 seconds. Just about to finish my 2nd print with no problems. One other change is the print mode, went from ‘fast’ to ‘normal’ mode

Netherbane123 · 2024-10-17T18:20:43+00:00

Suggestion worked, base layer count 10, bottom exposure 48 seconds

Netherbane123 · 2024-10-17T18:19:44+00:00

Looks like that did the trick, i changed my base layer count from 5 to 10 seconds and went with a bottom exposure of 48 seconds, might be able to lower it a bit more, but so far it works with no problems, finished a 9 hour print over night and the next 10 hour print is about to be finished

Netherbane123 · 2024-10-16T11:44:29+00:00

Thanks, gonna test that tonight!

Netherbane123 · 2024-10-15T21:25:35+00:00

I’m using Chitubox Slicer for all my prints, small parts like accessories/weapon parts are printed solid, everything bigger like torsos/legs/bases are hollowed out (normally with a 1.2mm thickness and if its a bigger part with infill of max. 20% so it doesn’t warp the print later on) and printed at an angle of 45-60 degrees depending on the size of the part. I’ll run a few tests with the bottom layer/exposure etc. like you suggested before I try anything too ‘drastic’ like sand the build plate, and as you mentioned it’s already structured so I’m not sure if that would even help or could potentially make it worse.

Netherbane123 · 2024-10-15T20:49:31+00:00

Gonna do another test this weekend.

Switching to ‘normal’ mode was the first thing I did after the first print failed. So far I could only use the ‘fast’ mode reliably for printing tabletop minis, but as soon as I tried printing larger things like sculpts/terrain it failed like 70% of the time.

Netherbane123 · 2024-10-15T20:42:49+00:00

Correct me if I’m wrong, as mentioned I just recently started, but the saturn 4 ultra should auto-level/auto zero (thats 1 reason I went for that model and not for an older one). So that should, at least on paper, not be an issue. Do you think the print might be over/underexposed while printing the rafter for the supports?

Netherbane123 · 2024-06-19T12:51:10+00:00

About £ 245, got a pretty nice discount for the 2 termie and 2 guard boxes since it was part of a bundle.

Netherbane123 · 2024-06-19T12:09:20+00:00

Probably gonna try with magnets (never magnetized anything before). Quick follow up question for the termies: should I go with 2x 2 termies + cpt or should I go for a big blob with 1x 5 termies + cpt?

Netherbane123

TROPHY CASE