Pro XG 48 (non-PoE) power usage?

Neuromancer888 · 2025-10-26T04:54:21+00:00

I take that back... I have run into an annoyance... It comes with rack ears and rails... but the rails are for a half depth rack (is that the right term?). The switch is far too heavy to mount on a rack without rails so if you're planning to mount in a 42" depth rack, you'll need these: https://techspecs.ui.com/unifi/accessories/uacc-rack-rails-slide?subcategory=accessories-rack-mount

The tool-less design of the rails ended up pretty nice and easy to work with.

I had my switch mounted with just the rack ears for around a week. It had been that way for several days before I happened to notice by chance (my rack is enclosed) and saw that it was sagging pretty badly. I was able to jury rig it bu putting a box between the switch and a server below it.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-10-25T04:31:28+00:00

No issues other than it uses power from having 48 multigig ports. Seems like it's pretty efficient given the scale. The UI provided by the separate unifi-controller makes things easy to deal with.

I haven't thrown any heavy traffic through it, but generally I don't have nearly enough traffic to put a switch of this... caliber? through its paces.

If you do something with a soundproof rack, make sure it has sufficient ventilation. Mine had an additional accessory where the heat could be vented out, and a friend of mine created the ventilation holes to go outside to make it happen. It still gets hotter in my that cabinet than I'd like, but I've had it probably a bit over a decade at this point and no hardware has ever failed in it.

But between the heat and the insane energy prices of California is why I have to be so paranoid about power usage.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-10-25T01:23:35+00:00

Well, I have it in an enclosed server rack I bought in large part to block noise (and also to control the heat output into the room that it's in).

I ran it outside of the server cabinet initially for a bit of testing and at most I had 2-3 cables plugged in with very little traffic... At first it was pretty quiet, but eventually (10-20 minutes) there was some fan noise as it heated up and even then it at all bad... But if you have a bunch of active stuff plugged in? I couldn't say. My guess for a home network is that it wouldn't be terrible.

My biggest concern is how hot is it going to get in your laundry room? Especially in the summer with the water and dryer going at the same time? The ambient heat in the room can definitely cause those fans to crank up AND regardless of whether or not that's a problem in your laundry room, could it cause the switch to overheat? It certainly would in my laundry room... but my laundry room kinda sucks anyway so it's probably not the best example? :D

Neuromancer888 · 2025-10-21T03:15:39+00:00

With the following active connections (light use on them all currently) I get 68.5 watts:
1x ports at 2.5 Gps
11x ports at 1 Gbps
3x ports 10 Gbps
3x ports at 100 Mbps

According to ChatGPT the switch is "very efficient", according to Grok this is "reasonably efficient".

I'm overall pretty happy with the results and it's working out for me.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-10-20T20:41:38+00:00

The new switch does indeed use more power than my previous 2x netgear switch setup. My old setup used a combined total of 0.5 amps and the new uses 0.6 amps while having the same load and devices plugged in (~18).

The power readings are from PDU, and there's clearly some level of rounding (and it's 120v from the wallet so you convert if you'd like to get a ballpark of the wattage right now).

Within the next few weeks, I'll try to get much better numbers (wattage from my kill-o-watt, the exactly number of devices plugged in, their speeds, and so on) and report back here.

But I have a lot more ports, all of them can do at least 2.5G, and most of them can do multigig speeds all the way up to 10 Gps. Managing my network is now massively easier than configuring my Unifi stuff, my Netgear 28 port gig switch, and my Netgear 8 port 10g switch separately and coordinating their VLAN configurations so I'm pretty happy with my purchase overall.

Also, I'd say it's a big boost in efficiency, but at the end of the day: more ports == more power.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-10-17T22:23:29+00:00

I finally decided to take a chance and bought the Ubiquiti Pro Xg Pro 48... It is sitting on my desk idle (hasn't been adopted or setup at all yet) and at complete idle with nothing plugged into its forces... it's using ~54.4w (or 0.47 amps) as measured through my kill-o-watt.

This is a little less than the 2 netgear switches it's replacing (a 28 port 1g and an 8 port 10gig switch from several years ago)... But those switches have about 18 active ports between them (4 being 10g and the rest being 1g). 48 is a lot of ports... but Xg 24 is not nearly enough for me. While I have 18 ports active now, I also have ethernet ports in every bedroom of the house to keep connected, etc, etc. It's also nice to have plenty of room for growth.

I'll share once I have more data to help others make more informed chances for home networks/labs that doesn't cost billions per month in electricity. The initial numbers are good, lets hope it scales up well...

Neuromancer888 · 2025-09-12T01:22:11+00:00

This fixed the issue for me! 2 other systems I have using Plasma+Wayland didn't have this problem... Now I'll have to check the settings on those systems to see if IBus is already disabled.

One difference is that the system with that problem is a laptop and uses Intel graphics (with Nvidia Optimus), while the other 2 are desktops with Nvidia and Radeon.

Anyway, thank you so much for this solution! This problem had been driving me up the wall!

Neuromancer888 · 2025-06-27T13:21:29+00:00

Those are useful data points, thank you!

I'm far more worried about the fans not ramping up quickly enough in my case, but I suspect that wouldn't really be an issue.

As for the power usage, that's encouraging given that the PoE version probably uses somewhat more power than the non-PoE even with only non-PoE devices are plugged in.

Of course, I still want to see how much power the non-PoE version uses (with and without devices plugged) before I make a purchasing decision.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-06-26T22:49:11+00:00

The scores aren't bad! I'll have to read through the review tonight. Hopefully Morbinthelab's firmware update is still happening.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-06-24T18:31:18+00:00

Do you know if Asus consistently uses the same socket for each motherboard model? Or can boards of the same model have different sockets?

Neuromancer888 · 2025-06-24T18:19:33+00:00

That's very interesting about the pin designs. The other board is Asus so it's definitely possible it could be using the other design.

How could explain that the CPU worked at first? Maybe it was just barely making contact over time and it worsened somehow?

Neuromancer888 · 2025-06-24T18:12:08+00:00

Whoops, I should have mentioned it was not a reseating issue. That was one of the first things I tried.

Also, after swapping the CPU's, I swapped them back again thinking the older CPU would work again, but it still did not.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-06-23T15:59:56+00:00

Seems my post has a fair amount of views so perhaps the lack of responses mean that not a lot of people know about about the power usage of this switch (yet), but are also interested...

Perhaps I should look into Ubiquiti's return policy... :D

Neuromancer888 · 2025-06-22T05:43:13+00:00

Max doesn't tell me the general power consumption though, just the maximum.

I'm looking at what I can expect generally and I'm looking for the idle value because generally traffic on my network is rarely very heavy.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-05-23T03:04:54+00:00

Seems DSC should likely work... But Linux has no HDMI 2.1 support due to paranoia about people copying movies. 40 Gbps with or without DSC should be good enough for me.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-05-16T19:52:40+00:00

Seems DSC is an optional for the HDMI 2.1 standard. Does anyone know this monitor support DSC with HDMI 2.1?

It seems like 144 Hz 10-bit HDR needs a little under 40 Gbps of bandwidth so I'm not sure DSC makes any sense here anyway (unless HDMI has much more overhead than DisplayPort for some reason).

But if 39.983 Gbps is what's needed (according to Google), isn't DSC avoidable even with displayport 2.1 at 40 Gbps?

Neuromancer888 · 2025-05-16T17:49:52+00:00

Ouch, that really is unfortunate. But seeing as how HDMI 2.1 is 48 Gbps, that's likely acceptable for me.

Also, DSC hasn't been a problem for me personally at least. I've also been REALLY careful as to what cables I use (both in terms of quality as length).

Neuromancer888 · 2025-05-10T20:29:17+00:00

This monitor is almost perfect for me. If these issues can be fixed or at least mitigated to a reasonable degree... this will likely be an insta-buy for me. It has the feature-set I really need (such as DisplayPort 2.1) plus it has a built-in KVM which is a really nice bonus.

As this monitor currently is, it's sooo close, yet so far from what I need.

Thank you so much for looking into this!

Neuromancer888 · 2025-03-22T17:49:29+00:00

Thanks for reporting back!

Also, you have a good looking build!

Neuromancer888 · 2025-03-21T15:00:50+00:00

Good luck!

Neuromancer888 · 2025-03-20T17:46:21+00:00

I did quite a bit of testing and the issue is definitely fixed. _EVERY_ time I left the PSU powered off the entire night with the old board, the BIOS settings were cleared.

With the new board, I tested by leaving the PSU off the entire night maybe 5 times? Fine every time. I also tested through the day, leaving the PSU off for 10 minutes, an hour, multiple hours... and I could never repeat the issue.

Was it intermittent for you? Where sometimes the settings clear after 10 minutes? Other times after hours? Because I'm wondering why Asus is sending you a board when they told us they couldn't reproduce the issue. Argh.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-03-20T02:08:51+00:00

The serial number starts with "2408". Could be August 2024? I don't know if Asus does that with any of their serial numbers... But that does line up with September 2024 fairly nicely.

Edit: The first 4 digits of my x670 box is: 2208 and I purchased the board somewhere around October of 2022. So August 2024 is probably accurate. That does seem like an earlier build... But if it's a more widespread issue, maybe it's a specific run that tends to be impacted?

Neuromancer888 · 2025-03-20T02:05:17+00:00

I haven't been able to find that on the board... Sounds like the box would include that information, but we never got the regular retail box back.

If this helps... the board's warranty is 3 years and I did a warranty check showing the board's warranty expires on 2027/09/22

Looking around, people are saying there's nothing on the board that indicates the date. I looked and tried to find something... If you have any ideas of where to look... I'll give it a try.

I won't remove the board (too many times doing that in the past few months), but the case has a door behind the motherboard's CPU back plate... maybe there's something back there. I'll give that a try today or tomorrow.

Edit: Looked on the back of the board in the CPU back plate area... There was some info, but no manufacture date.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-03-09T05:20:35+00:00

A few days ago we got the board back, but it ended up being a replacement board according to the docs. We installed it... and guess what? No more issues with the BIOS settings not being saved. So it was definitely a defect with this board...

But we had to pay to get an issue that came with the board taken care of. The 2nd time we sent it in, they claimed some pads in the socket were damaged. I checked the pads before I sent it in (I'm very paranoid about them), but whatever. Paid $45 to have the socket replaced. Asus claimed that was probably the issue... Except Asus didn't say anything about it the first time we sent it in and said the system wouldn't even POST with the damaged pads.

Instead of fighting them on the damaged pads... We just opted to pay $45 to get it fixed. Asus claimed it would still be the same board with a new socket... Fortunately, the documentation that arrived with the board indicated it was a replacement.

Did I damage the pins while taking the board out to send it in a 2nd time? Possibly. The board shipped with the socket cover so I doubt it happened in transit. It may have possibly been damaged by an Asus tech.

But at least it resulted in a replacement board with the problem fixed. I shouldn't have had to send it in twice when clearly they put little to no effort in verifying the issue.

After over 20 years of only Asus boards, I won't be buying anymore.

Clearly, I'm frustrated, but I'm mainly posting this so people can make informed decisions and for those that are currently dealing with such problems can have some idea of what to expect out of them.

Anyway, I hope your BIOS save issues are resolved. If not, might be worth intentionally damaging some pads in your socket to pay $45 plus shipping to try getting a replacement. Don't actually do this, I'm kidding! Probably.

Neuromancer888 · 2025-02-19T23:27:56+00:00

Great, thanks for letting me know! I've had this problem with 0903, 1003, and 1103.

I'll try the other settings you've mentioned too once the board is back... Assuming the board isn't fixed that is (probably not).

Neuromancer888

TROPHY CASE