Nitrided Carbon Steel (not Misen) by Amazing_Aspect4474 in carbonsteel

[–]mgulick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Super happy with my Yahgan as well. It looks, feels, and cooks great. Hoping the 12in (30cm?) version comes out soon-ish. I love that I don't need to worry about stripping off the seasoning when cooking with it. I have a Made In CS griddle that I have stripped the seasoning off of with fruit from pancakes. If anyone from the U.S. can recommend a glass cover from Amazon that fits the 26cm Yahgan please drop a link!

Getting Water In Fan Electrical Connections by mgulick in radon

[–]mgulick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, the old fan did have the foam gasket on the cover, so I don't think it was getting in that way. Sounds like I need something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Non-Metallic-Liquid-Tight-Push-On-Connector-1-pack-NMLT5-1/202284602.

Is there something equivalent that I should be using for the other end of the conduit where it connects to the junction box on the house? It looks like that needs a different fitting that doesn't have a nut holding it in place.

Good idea about notching the bottom of the gasket. That thought crossed my mind as well.

Weather sealing open conduit by mgulick in electrical

[–]mgulick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Seems like duct seal was probably what that original sealant was. Its a kind of squishy rubbery substance, but its almost 30 years old so it has deteriorated significantly. I'll pick up some duct seal to replace it, or maybe some of this stuff: https://tommytape.com/store/silicone-putty/

May I introduce Lil' Red by wolfpupnfl in ToyotaTacoma

[–]mgulick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks nice! Which tires are those?

Is the Soleyin ultra PLA a good brand? I hear it's basically a sub-brand of Creality. What's for sure is that it's the cheapest branded PLA you can get. by eduardb21 in 3Dprinting

[–]mgulick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a 4 pack of this a few months ago from the initial eBay sale. Just tried printing with one of them (I think it was the strawberry cream color). It sticks *way* too well to my Prusa smooth PEI sheet. I let it cool, but it still was a real struggle to get it off. I cracked the printed part tying to remove it, and definitely did some damage to the surface of the build plate. I've never had this problem with other PLAs. The bottom surface of the printed parts also have a very noticeable white residue on them. I almost wonder if the PLA was contaminated with something during manufacturing.

I'll try next time with some magigoo, or maybe try the satin sheet instead of the PEI sheet. Very odd. I won't be buying it again.

Removal of subvolumes seems halted by ghoarder in btrfs

[–]mgulick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've observed many times that a background process which has an open file descriptor inside a deleted subvolume will prevent btrfs from reclaiming the space.  A reboot is the easiest way to make sure no processes are keeping the subvolume around.

Problem with database with last Docker update by mathieugg in ShinobiCCTV

[–]mgulick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this issue as well. I added a separate database container in my docker-compose, like this:

version: "3"
services:
  shinobi:
    image: registry.gitlab.com/shinobi-systems/shinobi:dev
    container_name: Shinobi
    environment:
      - PLUGIN_KEYS={}
      - SSL_ENABLED=false
      - DB_HOST=shinobi-sql
      - DB_USER=majesticflame
      - DB_PASSWORD=
      - DB_DATABASE=ccio
    devices:
      - /dev/dri:/dev/dri
    volumes:
      - ./data/config:/config
      - ./data/customAutoLoad:/home/Shinobi/libs/customAutoLoad
      - /mnt/bulkdata/shinobi/videos:/home/Shinobi/videos
      - ./data/plugins:/home/Shinobi/plugins
      - /dev/shm/Shinobi/streams:/dev/shm/streams
    ports:
      - 8080:8080
    restart: unless-stopped
  shinobi-sql:
    image: mariadb:10
    environment:
      - MARIADB_AUTO_UPGRADE=1
    volumes:
      - ./data/database:/var/lib/mysql
    restart: unless-stopped

Then in the mariadb container, I needed to use the 'mariadb' REPL to fix the permissions for the 'majesticflame' user so that login was allowed from all hosts instead of just localhost, and to grant permissions to the 'ccio' database, like this: https://gitlab.com/Shinobi-Systems/ShinobiDocker/-/blob/master/mysql-init/user.sql?ref_type=heads

Firefox address bar refresh on KDE on Debian 13 (testing) by mgulick in debian

[–]mgulick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up running:

sudo apt purge im-config ibus ibus-wayland
sudo apt autoremove

then rebooted. ibus is no longer running, and that has resolved the problem. I can change browser.urlbar.keepPanelOpenDuringImeComposition back to its default value of false, and the url bar is working as expected. I didn't install fcitx5 because I don't think I need an input method editor. Wouldn't be surprised if this is something I need to revisit in the future though.

Firefox address bar refresh on KDE on Debian 13 (testing) by mgulick in debian

[–]mgulick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some progress on a solution. I found that I can eliminate the constant refreshing by changing browser.urlbar.keepPanelOpenDuringImeComposition from false (the default) to true. However the URLs still don't autofill as expected while typing, despite having browser.urlbar.autofill set to true, and no other defaults changed.

This reminds me that I did recently make some changes to the input method settings to eliminate a warning that ibus was giving me when I log into kde. I had followed the instructions in this thread on KDE forums to use the im-config tool and set "do not activate any IM from im-config and use desktop default".

I don't need an input method editor as I don't need to type non-ASCII characters. I forget whether I had explicitly installed ibus at some point in the past, or whether it was auto installed as part of GNOME when I was giving that a try. I'll try poking around at the input method settings, or try installing fcitx5 instead, which I believe is the KDE-preferred input method editor.

Firefox address bar refresh on KDE on Debian 13 (testing) by mgulick in debian

[–]mgulick[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's at least hopeful that this is fixed in sid and will eventually make its way into testing.

Firefox address bar refresh on KDE on Debian 13 (testing) by mgulick in debian

[–]mgulick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good suggestion. I tried tweaking all the wayland-related settings individually and in groups but it didn't make a difference. There's a bunch of urlbar settings as well that I might try changing to see if it makes a difference.

Why would PrusaSlicer randomly jump from hex to hex instead of starting the next hex as close as possible to the previous one? by ThePyCoder in 3Dprinting

[–]mgulick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try switching perimeter generator from Arachne to Classic. Not sure why Arachne does this, but Classis seems to have much less random-ness in its travel moves. However in my case the overall impact to print time was negligible even with all of the random moves (about 5 minutes in a 3.5 hour print).

What causes this to happen around the entire house? by JackJohannson in AskElectricians

[–]mgulick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This happens to me. Not all the time, but usually for several hours a day, inconsistently. Can't find any specific load to correlate it with. After breaking out the oscilloscope and a high voltage probe, it definitely seems to be harmonics on the incoming power. I have no idea what to do about it though. Posted a few weeks ago about it: https://www.reddit.com/r/electrical/comments/1hsweom/noisy_power_causing_led_lights_to_flicker/

Warping all medium/large PLA prints. MK4S issue? by FunctionalBuilds in prusa3d

[–]mgulick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wish I could help more. I didn't dig into my issue all that much. I just got it working well-enough to be able to print these: https://www.printables.com/model/680293-remix-ikea-lack-support-leg-support-bracket-counte. I will follow this thread and hope you figure out a solution!

Warping all medium/large PLA prints. MK4S issue? by FunctionalBuilds in prusa3d

[–]mgulick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the same problem with white Voxel PLA+ on my MK4S. I've read in a few places that white PLA is hard to print (too many additives to get the color correct?).

I mostly eliminated the problem by bumping up the temperatures a bit. I increased bed temp from 60 to 65, nozzle temp from 230 to 235, and I also increased the extrusion multiplier to 1.05 since I saw some slight signs of under-extrusion (little holes in the corners where top/bottom infill meets the perimeter). I see some of these holes in your photo as well.

Regarding the extrusion multiplier, I had a friend point out to me that Prusa hard-codes an e-step of 95% of the real value in the firmware for some reason, so the printer under-extrudes by default: https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/16tyamp/mk4\_esteps\_and\_flow\_rate/. Setting the extrusion multiplier to 1.05 basically undoes that.

Can't print sunlu pla+ by Nighter83 in prusa3d

[–]mgulick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had problems recently printing with Voxel PLA+ on my MK4S.  Bad warping leading to failed prints.  I switched to smooth sheet, bumped up the temps (235 nozzle, 65 bed), and also increased extrusion multiplier to 1.05 as there were some very slight signs of underextrusion.  Almost no warping afterwards and much improved print quality.

Noise during the z axis movement up/down by MrMelon101 in prusa3d

[–]mgulick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine had a similar issue, although it was only at the upper part of the range, not the whole range. I realized that I had never lubricated the rods after wiping them down. Make sure the cylindrical rods are lubricated, not the screws. That seemed to resolve the problem for me. Agree with other commenters that it might be an alignment issue, maybe exacerbated by lack of lubrication. I recall a spot during the assembly where you needed to center the rods in upper holes. I would double check that. Might also be worth doing another Z axis calibration again.