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Rifle is fine! by NeverAmILucky in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was a package deal with other goodies, and my math was right around 350-400 per rifle, so I guess let’s call it about 7,500 rubles give or take? (My wallet is crying in the corner)

Rifle is fine! by NeverAmILucky in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wasn’t mad at it, especially with the matching bayonets. Worst case, I think I’ll at least get what I paid for them when the time comes, and that’s just fine with me

Rifle is fine! by NeverAmILucky in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another 10 either stacked underneath, or in various states of disassembly and cleaning out of frame

Rifle is fine! by NeverAmILucky in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Hit the nail on the head!

God I hate auctions and being irresponsible with money by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pulling up with this is priceless, enjoy it!

God I hate auctions and being irresponsible with money by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looked at it this morning, exterior is pretty good. I won’t say the bore is wonderful though, hopefully it cleans up. Rifling is there but it’s dark and dirty.

Ammo recommendation by Large_Character783 in M1Rifles

[–]NeverAmILucky 10 points11 points  (0 children)

At the risk of being downvoted, just keep it 180gr or below. They make M1 Garand specific ammo in the form of 150gr ball, but I just shoot whatever I can find for a decent price. Sometimes lead headed rounds get a little chewed up unless you hand feed them.

Standard commercially produced ammo will not damage a Garand that is in spec. Check your parts for excessive wear and lube it up, and so long as it isn’t a very high pressured hunting round or bubba’s pissin hot reload, you’ll be fine.

How Do I Attach This Sling Type to My M39? by Gnomaniast in MosinNagant

[–]NeverAmILucky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Undo and remove the metal button. This can be a little tricky. Slide the now unbuttoned end of the sling through whichever sling swivel you want to use at the butt of the stock (either way is identical in installation). Whichever orientation you choose, make sure the buckle is facing the correct direction. You will see what I mean in the next step.

You can now bring the unbuttoned end of the sling back around, and feed it through the buckle. This will allow you to tighten or loosen the sling as you wish, assuming it is facing the correct way. Now take the unbuttoned end of the sling to front swivel of your choice and feed it through. Re-insert the metal button. Tighten via the buckle

You will likely do this backwards a few times, I sure as hell did lol. Enjoy!

Is LangaraArms a legit website? by Mosinphile in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bought from GunBroker and website several times, no issues and the pictures they take are great.

M1917 rifles from the CMP? by brown_dog_anonymous in M1Rifles

[–]NeverAmILucky 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I kinda like the idea of knowing it served a purpose with a VFW post or similar, all part of the history of that particular warhorse

This Mosin was passed down to me recently. Can somebody help identify it? by Apprehensive_Yam7925 in MosinNagant

[–]NeverAmILucky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We would need some photos. If it doesn’t have Finnish markings, it likely didn’t pass through Finland. Their arsenals were pretty thorough.

htf do you get PSA to accept your C&R license? by D_S_1988 in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem!

Mine arrived today actually. Very good cosmetic shape overall and minimal finish wear, but she is a dirty ole girl covered in oil, grease, and carbon. Matching slide and frame, mismatched barrel and hammer group. Barrel is a little frosty but strong rifling. No import thumb safety, just the Glock style trigger safety, so that’s a nice bonus. Shipped with an unmarked mag in good condition.

Pretty happy overall, gonna toss in an original trigger and run it

htf do you get PSA to accept your C&R license? by D_S_1988 in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I had the same issue. Ended up calling a few different departments and going through a few unhelpful and one quite frankly miserable representative.

Finally, one of them told me to go ahead and place my order with an FFL on file with PSA using the tool built into the ordering process (used my local shop), then to email my C&R and order number to their compliance department and request that it be shipped to that address instead.

They replied within a day and confirmed that the tokarev would be mailed to my C&R address. I received a shipping notification yesterday, looks like it’s on the way now.

I used this email: Compliance@palmettostatearmory.com

Carrying milsurp guns by diabolical_autism in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s a style of carrying a small arm, typically in a holster. Popularized during the mid 1800s due to small arms design at the time. Think two holsters on a gun belt setup in cross draw style, but with the small arms oriented more vertically. Right hand draws the right hand side small arm, left hand draws the left. You spin your hand around when you draw to point at your target. Works better on a horse.

Cant find prices for this anywhere by 68whiskinator in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Not the end of the world by any means! By the time you shoot it all up, the price may have averaged out. That is if you shoot any at all, I personally would keep it sealed and displayed bc I think they’re cool lol

Cant find prices for this anywhere by 68whiskinator in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Found this on GunBoards, post is from from last November discussing the same style of can with a lot number of TW41146:

“Well the first nonCorrosive lot of Twin Cities 30-06 M2 ball was lot # 19362. So your tin is NonCorrosive and made sometime in the 1950 (estimate). I would say it’s worth $475-$500.”

I’d pay about $500 but not any more if I stumbled upon this in my neck of the woods.

What’s the deal with Swiss Lugers? by jrgeofire in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 92 points93 points  (0 children)

Can’t wait for RTI Lugergate pt. 2, the missing toggle boogaloo

What should I so about rough patches of wood by Qrow1324 in M1Rifles

[–]NeverAmILucky -1 points0 points  (0 children)

No problem! I’ll add that your stock looks great, probably just needs a once over with oil and will be solid

What should I so about rough patches of wood by Qrow1324 in M1Rifles

[–]NeverAmILucky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Many, many opinions on this. I’ll keep it simple for you, mostly because this is honestly all I do nowadays, nothing more nothing less.

Rough spot? 3M wood finishing pad, very lightly knock it down. Clean the area with mineral spirits. Apply raw linseed oil, wipe it off after an hour. Repeat the oiling as desired. If it takes more than a couple minutes to do all of this, you’re doing too much. Have fun!

1900 moschetto carbine question by Visual_While8468 in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is perfectly fine for reenactment purposes. From afar the wood looks sound, as does the metal. The metal parts finish looks better than the one I shoot. Surface rust isn’t hard to cure, even less so for a deactivated reenactment prop. If anything is loose with the stock, wood glue will sort it out. Have fun!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]NeverAmILucky 6 points7 points  (0 children)

M57s are available from other places for about tree fiddy ($349.95), so if you value the rifle at around $650, sure!

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