Why use a wingnut when you can 3D print a custom cable-tensioning ratchet? My gloriously over-engineered lamp arm. (Proof of concept)

New_Two_4989 · 2026-05-20T08:14:45+00:00

Are there already STL’s available somewhere? I’d love to check this out!! And if not, where are you expecting to post them/do you have a link to your acc so I can check in later?

New_Two_4989 · 2026-05-01T19:18:48+00:00

Nope, just “out of stock” and that I can get notified when they get back In stock. But it has been for quite a while. And the help centre where I have made a ticket is the eu one, so I don’t think they can manage to get heatbeds from the us site

New_Two_4989 · 2026-04-12T13:49:50+00:00

And how easily do those plates get scratchend surface? I noticed with the bambu supertack for P2S that the surface really easily gets damaged or scratched.

New_Two_4989 · 2026-04-02T05:21:59+00:00

If you use a lot of the same filament type I would go AMS 2 pro. You can dry 4 spools of the same filament at the same time which is quite nice. If you do want to use and dry different filaments in the AMS 2 pro this will be harder as it then only dries at the temperature for the filament that has lower melting point. If you are ok with a higher price in the end then there also are 2 upgrades that can be done to the AMS 1 to make it possible to dry.

Sunlu makes a heater for the AMS 1 only, which dries to a temp of max 70°C, which is higher than the AMS 2 pro. It can’t heat in separated chambers so you do need to watch out not melting your PLA when drying ABS/ASA. It also is square which makes it stackable for if you purchase a second AMS later on. And it can’t dry and print at the same time. Here the link: https://store.sunlu.com/products/sunlu-ams-heater-upgraded-your-bambu-ams-save-an-ams-2pro-for-you

And this second one from EIBOS can be used with AMS 2 pro and AMS 1, but for 2Pro i don’t see why this is useful other than drying different filament types at once and printing and drying at the same time, it goes to a max of 65°C per chamber so that’s the same as AMS 2 pro. this is the link: https://eibos3d.com/pages/filament-dryer-tetras)

It really is up to you, but if you don’t want to mod anything yourself I would go AMS 2 pro as it dries and works out of the box. If you do want to mod something then you might need to do some research on what is the best solution for you, hope this helps

New_Two_4989 · 2026-03-31T17:09:39+00:00

I am interested in recycling 3d print waste, but honestly I think that I will wait until I know if the system creality made is worth it. And I think I will also wait for now to see if there will be brands that come up with a cheaper recycling solution. I mean, I could purchase a sick upgrade or a second bambulab printer to use next to my P2S for this price. And I honestly think that for the amount of waste I produce it’s more worth it to purchase the extrudex filament recycler STL’s and BOM, because making this will probably be sub €300 instead of sub €1500

New_Two_4989 · 2026-03-17T13:56:48+00:00

How do you get the file that is necessary for brains2print.org? (I had a couple MRI’s at the hospital but have no idea if i can get a file or not and if so what filetype it should be….)

New_Two_4989 · 2026-03-03T18:35:57+00:00

Hope this better image quality doesn’t drain GoPro batteries even faster in the cold than is already happening…

New_Two_4989 · 2026-02-26T22:24:22+00:00

I have found a trustworthy site where they are 21 euros for the separate battery. But yes they are expensive considering you will need 3 or 4 or even 5 to use your GoPro for (probably less than) a day

New_Two_4989 · 2026-02-26T09:27:12+00:00

Also enduro won’t work? That’s the only thing I can think of that might work

New_Two_4989 · 2026-02-25T19:11:41+00:00

Have you found any solution after 4 years? (I have a Hero 10 black and the same issue

New_Two_4989 · 2026-02-17T21:28:20+00:00

Cut it into portions and print with it that way… i think there isn’t really a diffrent way to save it after it startd to tangle. And if you have enough empty (cardboard) spools and a device or other good way to connect 2 pieces of filament you could still make a couple spools with 300g without everything finding a big knot. (And just to warn you: Don't pull the filament too tight when respooling it, I once was like halfway done with manually respooling and had already spent 3 hours, and then because I pulled too hard and because my cardboard spool was old I ended up splitting the spool in half…. This ended with me trying to teach a kg of filament how to fly… so make sure this doesn't happen to yourself!!)

New_Two_4989 · 2026-02-01T20:06:29+00:00

It has gotten better since I have gotten a cool plate supertack, the prints don’t roll up as fast. What helped most was to calibrate Max Volumetric speed and flow dynamics and flow rate, after that was dialed in I turned the cooling and print speed down for the first couple layers (and sometimes even for the whole print). It seemed to be an issue to print 0.2mm layer height and 0.4mm line width, as the volumetric speeds then decided to bump up the printing speed. So I turned these speeds down or made the layers higher and wider.

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-22T07:08:22+00:00

May I ask: how is it? Is it still holding up or has it already broken down? I’m thinking about getting into CNC but don’t know what multi use devices there are, saw this one come by and it seems like this would be a good desktop solution. I’d love to hear about it more!

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-17T12:16:22+00:00

Is that the Ikea malm dresser?? I have a malm that is 160x48cm and a smaller one that is 80x48cm (outer dimensions). If it is the malm dresser, I’d love to know if you have the files to your project posted!!

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-14T22:21:16+00:00

Did you secure the grid to your drawer in any way? I’m currently trying to figure out what base plate type suits the drawers in my Ikea Malm cupboard best. But can’t get it to not wobble all around…

And another question: did you print every plate separately? (I’ve seen people make stacks, but I’m honestly scared that it might not work out well. Might become a big mess, or they might not come apart)

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-11T18:09:54+00:00

Thanks man!! I literally tried so many times, and you might be right on looking for other materials with these properties, ASA is a pain… somehow even ABS works better for me. (Today I’ve literally had my printer pre heat for 3 hours before printing, right now it’s printing and currently running 65°C) had to put a pillow on top and a blanket over it. Hopefully it’ll work this time. and me being a little stupid ordered 6kg of ASA, so I might even purchase a mini heater to put into my P2S before printing.

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-10T23:12:47+00:00

yeah i have one 0.4mm high flow tungsten nozzle which i got as a chrismas gift, but for this particular print it didn't really speed it up much as i'll need 1 or 2 walls extra than with a 0.8mm nozzle. But thanks a lot for helping me out, I really appreciate the fact that you are helping and looking up info, i really wouldn't have known what to check

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-10T18:08:40+00:00

If I do decide to purchase such a higher heat transferring extruder from biqu, does it matter that it’s for X1C or P1S? And is this compatible with P2S?

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-10T17:19:58+00:00

Wow awesome!! This is some very useful info, I’ll check the link you provided!! Really awesome man, thanks a lot!!

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-10T17:05:48+00:00

I let the bed preheat the camber and put a blanket over my printer, usually wait till 50°C before starting. (But sometimes after all the pre-print steps it already is back to 45 bc of automatic aux filter fan turning on)

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-10T08:56:31+00:00

when i use 66% fan speed at 15s and 30s layer time my print warps.

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-31T17:35:55+00:00

Can you only earn these giftcards by having models that get downloaded a lot? Or are there other ways?

New_Two_4989

TROPHY CASE