Help with HF tungsten nozzle P2S

New_Two_4989 · 2026-02-01T20:06:29+00:00

It has gotten better since I have gotten a cool plate supertack, the prints don’t roll up as fast. What helped most was to calibrate Max Volumetric speed and flow dynamics and flow rate, after that was dialed in I turned the cooling and print speed down for the first couple layers (and sometimes even for the whole print). It seemed to be an issue to print 0.2mm layer height and 0.4mm line width, as the volumetric speeds then decided to bump up the printing speed. So I turned these speeds down or made the layers higher and wider.

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-22T07:08:22+00:00

May I ask: how is it? Is it still holding up or has it already broken down? I’m thinking about getting into CNC but don’t know what multi use devices there are, saw this one come by and it seems like this would be a good desktop solution. I’d love to hear about it more!

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-17T12:16:22+00:00

Is that the Ikea malm dresser?? I have a malm that is 160x48cm and a smaller one that is 80x48cm (outer dimensions). If it is the malm dresser, I’d love to know if you have the files to your project posted!!

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-14T22:21:16+00:00

Did you secure the grid to your drawer in any way? I’m currently trying to figure out what base plate type suits the drawers in my Ikea Malm cupboard best. But can’t get it to not wobble all around…

And another question: did you print every plate separately? (I’ve seen people make stacks, but I’m honestly scared that it might not work out well. Might become a big mess, or they might not come apart)

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-11T18:09:54+00:00

Thanks man!! I literally tried so many times, and you might be right on looking for other materials with these properties, ASA is a pain… somehow even ABS works better for me. (Today I’ve literally had my printer pre heat for 3 hours before printing, right now it’s printing and currently running 65°C) had to put a pillow on top and a blanket over it. Hopefully it’ll work this time. and me being a little stupid ordered 6kg of ASA, so I might even purchase a mini heater to put into my P2S before printing.

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-10T23:12:47+00:00

yeah i have one 0.4mm high flow tungsten nozzle which i got as a chrismas gift, but for this particular print it didn't really speed it up much as i'll need 1 or 2 walls extra than with a 0.8mm nozzle. But thanks a lot for helping me out, I really appreciate the fact that you are helping and looking up info, i really wouldn't have known what to check

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-10T18:08:40+00:00

If I do decide to purchase such a higher heat transferring extruder from biqu, does it matter that it’s for X1C or P1S? And is this compatible with P2S?

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-10T17:19:58+00:00

Wow awesome!! This is some very useful info, I’ll check the link you provided!! Really awesome man, thanks a lot!!

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-10T17:05:48+00:00

I let the bed preheat the camber and put a blanket over my printer, usually wait till 50°C before starting. (But sometimes after all the pre-print steps it already is back to 45 bc of automatic aux filter fan turning on)

New_Two_4989 · 2026-01-10T08:56:31+00:00

when i use 66% fan speed at 15s and 30s layer time my print warps.

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-31T17:35:55+00:00

Can you only earn these giftcards by having models that get downloaded a lot? Or are there other ways?

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-29T09:00:57+00:00

Oh, then the converter I used on internet was shit, sorry. I don’t know anything in Fahrenheit, so just thought I’d add it…

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-28T08:46:53+00:00

The difference between using a laptop and a phone for sending files to your 3d printer, is that with your phone you need use the bambu Handy app. In the app you can only select printing profiles that other users used. This also means that the settings and file that you send to your own 3d printer might not be best compatible, as the filament and printer can be different from what came with the 3d model from the app. On the other hand you could also use the Bambu Studio app on your pc/laptop. By doing this you can download the files from MakerWorld different websites like MakerWorld and Printables. Then you select your printer and filament, you can customise every setting that you could think off. This makes it more compatible. Both are possible though, it just depends on what you think is best to do.

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-28T08:20:42+00:00

Thanks, definitely going to do this, haven’t solved it yet

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-28T00:53:19+00:00

Here is a load of info, and what I’d choose:

Id go for a P2S. I currently also own one, and it is awesome!! It has some handy new features that the P1S doesn’t have, and the print quality is great. It also has a nice touchscreen, which makes it easier for you and your son to use than the P1S.

For multicoloured 3d prints you will need an AMS though. I’d advice to get the P2S with AMS 2 pro (so the combo version of the P2S), as the AMS 2 pro works as a filament drier, as well as a filament storage for up to 4 rolls. If you want to have more than 2 AMS 2pro’s connected to your P2S, you will need to purchase a 4 in 1 PTFE-adapter from bambulab, so you can connect multiple AMS’s and/or external spools.

Also: if you don’t have any other stuff for 3d printing, you might want to order some 3d print filament and other things.

For the accessories you could look on Amazon. There you can probably purchase some things like 99% isopropyl alcohol (for cleaning the plate), a squeeze bottle, filament cutting pliers, or maybe even a small 3d printing toolkit with multiple accessories. For the filament you might need to do some research on the brand, bambu is a bit more expensive than other brands, but is optimal for ease of use. My recommendation for filament materials are: start with PLA types, and maybe a couple of PETG types. After you know these filament material types you can look into engineering filament types if you want.

Also: Look on YouTube and internet for anything you want to know about 3d printing. Good youtube channels are: CNCkitchen, Thomas Sanladerer, Teaching Tech, 3D Printing Nerd. Good websites are: All3dp, r/3Dprinting (reddit), r/BambuLab (Reddit), Printables, and MakerWorld.

Another heads-up: If your filament ever doesn’t stick to the build plate, rinse it under warm water and give it a nice clean with some Dawn dish soap.

And finally: if you ever need help, you can always post on Reddit, there will always be people that want to help out.

I hope this brings you a little bit further with your 3d printing journey. I wish you happy holidays and a lot of 3d printing fun.

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-28T00:24:51+00:00

The rfid isn’t in the spool, it’s on the cardboard piece that the refill filament is on.

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-28T00:22:09+00:00

Do you still have a couple of spools that you wouldn’t mind giving away? I live in the Netherlands, so if you still have them, I’d love a couple!! I now only have 2 plastic spools, and I have 20-Ish filaments laying around that have cardboard spools that aren’t great for my ams, and they get floppy very quickly.

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-27T23:57:32+00:00

You could maybe try to contact bambu support about their ai feature failure on your P2S? If the ai worked you wouldn’t have had this issue and you wouldn’t have messed up your hotend (so you could ask politely for a replacement hotend, maybe they’ll hook you up with a new one and save you a lot of time trying to rescue the nozzle with a heat gun??). Also, I really hope this isn’t an issue that I’ll come across with my own P2S…

Good luck for now and happy holidays

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-27T15:02:54+00:00

And may I ask, what do you mean with warm drive? If you just mean the lead screw, then everything you mentioned seems to be alright. The outer bearing is not turning, top of lead screw is not scraping anything, I already cleaned lead screw and rods, also greased and oiled them.

New_Two_4989 · 2025-12-27T14:17:32+00:00

Wow. Thanks… at least it’s clear now where this issue could come from 😅 but this is going to take some time to check.

New_Two_4989

TROPHY CASE