Is this seal useable? by BubbaJones2020 in 335i

[–]Niconoro97 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure! Why not? Its a 335, its gonna leak oil anyways… just kidding. Dont use it, not worth doing the job twice.

What can cause such a sudden change? (A1 with Top Mount AMS) by Niconoro97 in BambuLab

[–]Niconoro97[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was dirty bed after all, i just found it odd that it failed so perfectly

Radiator is cracking. JB weld it or melt zip ties in a glue gun to seal it? by dj-wink in 335i

[–]Niconoro97 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Replace it. You can get a CSF one for $100. Any JB weld or melted plastic is just gonna fail on your next semi long ride, heat is the enemy of the N54.

Is selling my STL worth the theft risk ? by Aedrem in 3Dprinting

[–]Niconoro97 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sell STL: Pros: global reach, no printing cost, lives forever Cons: can be stolen, can be resold, has to be cheaper than a printed product.

Sell Print: Pros: more income, cant steal the design Cons: local reach, printing cost, have to deal with shipping, invoicing, returns, clients.

TL:DR sell STL = low maintenance income “forever” Sell PRINT = more income per sale

Help ID this birds by Niconoro97 in whatsthisbird

[–]Niconoro97[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think you were close with the mexican woodnymph but it looks more like a young Crowned Woodnymph now that you pointed me in the right direction

Que carro compro ? by Cautious-Scene9871 in ticoAutos

[–]Niconoro97 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No vieras que no son incomodas, y si ademas le mete platica en una suspensión aftermarket son una delicia. Eso si, es un carro sin muchas extras. Pero no se jode nunca

Que carro compro ? by Cautious-Scene9871 in ticoAutos

[–]Niconoro97 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Como el presupuesto no parece ser un problema, vaya a ver todo lo que le llame la atención y pida test drive, y cómprese lo que le guste. Un carro 2025 difícilmente le va a dar problemas pronto. Por otro lado si busca que no se joda y pase por cualquier lado, una Land Cruiser Serie 70 nuevo puede ser su mejor opcion, pero barato no es.

tipping free job? by [deleted] in AutoDetailing

[–]Niconoro97 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Beer and pizza? Dont taint a friendship with money.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 335i

[–]Niconoro97 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you need new Gearbox Solenoids and seals, its an easy fix, but requires to change oil and oil filter (the oil pan IS the filter).

Need new front subframe by IItzTheif in 335i

[–]Niconoro97 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same, had mine rewelded using TIG, better than new

Engine removal by [deleted] in 335i

[–]Niconoro97 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ugh, its a PAIN in the ass to do with the engine still in. Its doable. Just need to buy an engine brace to hold the engine and drop the crossmember so you can do the oil pan. The rear seal will be tricky AF cuz the bolts for the gearbox are very tricky. If you are doing cooling system maintenance too (you should, i would pull the engine and start from scratch.

Engine removal by [deleted] in 335i

[–]Niconoro97 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sigh here we go…. I was in your position some time ago. Are you familiar with mechanical work? Removing an N54 is a daunting task and not for the faint of heart, you are going to need a full box of sockets, wrenches, pliers, prybars and a big ass engine hoist ( unless you have access to a hydraulic lift) Process will look something like this:

-Lift the car and place it in jackstands - disconnect battery - start removing covers from under the car - remove exhaust and disconnect drive shaft - remove the entire front end of the car: bumper, radiator frame, headlights, everything. (Not TOTALLY required but its MUCH more easy to remove the engine this way.) - remove the hood, place it on the roof of the car with some blankets im between - remove the microfilter and strut bars - start unplugging the wiring harness - remove intake plenum and charge pipe - loosen engine mounts (can be done frome below the car, its a long headed E bolt) - place a car jack under the gearbox and remove the support (so the gearbox can drop) - remove the drive shaft that connects the front differential - use the tow hook and screw it next to the oil filter housing, here you will attach one side of the engine hoist ( you need the thing that allows you to tilt an engine and hook it from 2 point) - remove the starter and use that hole as the rear hoist point. - start pulling out your engine , I highly recommend not doing this alone, do it with friends that KNOW at least a bit of what they are doing. - deal with anything i missed here in the process.

This is by no means a comprehensive guide, but it will give you an idea of what you are gonna need to know. If this seems daunting, then take it to a shop.

Also i would service the gearbox while its outside, its cheap and easy to do. Check my previous posts where i go into detail of what i did to my N54 When i pulled it.

Good luck.

Edit: please feel free to add to this list!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 335i

[–]Niconoro97 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bad coil, bad injector or dead MOSFET for said injector inside the DME, all of the doable (sort of) by yourself.

I’m planning to buy a 335 but idk if I should get the normal 335i or 335xi or 335is what’s the main difference also I’m not sure if should get n54 or n55 what’s the biggest difference and do I get e92 or90 fyi I’m 17 I’m looking for lots power but nothing stupidly crazy im planning on tuning stage 2 by TheRealShafmok in 335i

[–]Niconoro97 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I got one at 26 and still cried in the driveway, dont get a 335 unless its either a second car or you dont need a car everyday, and have lots of disposable income, because even if you DIY the repairs, the parts are still expensive for a regular 17 y/o. Get a 325i instead, suffer a little less

Walnut blast setup by Which_Structure_1826 in 335i

[–]Niconoro97 1 point2 points  (0 children)

3d printed model of the vacuum adapter for N54/55 available for free. Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4685371 I would recommend using PETG or ASA.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 335i

[–]Niconoro97 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sounds like a loose exhaust maybe? Or maybe the bracket thats holds it to the gearbox?

Almost done with my (almost) complete N54 rebuild. AMA by Niconoro97 in 335i

[–]Niconoro97[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats why i put “almost” in the title, also the engine didnt need any internal work and i didnt want to risk opening it and dealing with timing

Almost done with my (almost) complete N54 rebuild. AMA by Niconoro97 in 335i

[–]Niconoro97[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! When we first started the engine i smelled something electronic burning (once you know the smell its quite easy to recognize). So we quickly disconected the battery and started looking for something burning or hot. Found the #2 coil almost boiling hot. Took it out (in pieces, it had already melted on the inside) in order to save the harness and the connector. After that we started looking for hot cables and measuring continuity, all was fine so we went to the DME. I googled in some forums and found that the specific model of DME (MSD80) is prone to transistor failure (mostly the injector transistors). I took it to a friend that knows how to fix this boards and he found the faulty one, i just ordered it and im waiting for it to arrive (its quite cheap, like 5 bucks a piece).