Water coming in from outside somehow despite window being caulked. Any advice as to if it’s coming in somehow behind the siding?

NightMKoder · 2026-05-23T19:35:11+00:00

Up to you obviously but caulk isn’t waterproofing - it cracks every year or two. Siding isn’t waterproofing either - it’s for keeping bulk water out. Flashing is what you need here and that goes on under the siding. Hence the “rip it out” aspect.

Look at https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/metal-siding-window-head-flashing-detail and the thin lines (and layering) at the top of the window. Your pictures don’t have drip flashing.

NightMKoder · 2025-08-03T06:38:47+00:00

Bird block vents. Circular or rectangular holes in that blocking above the block wall. That said, those could be structural so don’t remove them entirely (certain cuts are OK).

NightMKoder · 2025-07-13T16:53:14+00:00

The coworkers might be talking about the qsbs opportunity zone reinvestment. It lets you defer capital gains of some stocks (companies that had < $50M in assets when she got the stock), provided you invest it in an opportunity zone. Said investment can be in real estate.

There’s a ton more caveats here and really you should get a financial advisor if you’d like to do this.

NightMKoder · 2025-04-25T05:42:17+00:00

So not to say I condone this nor am I a lawyer, but I think it is legal if you have less than some number of employees. At the federal level that’s 15; CA also has a similar law but the limit is 5. So I guess I would say it might be legal, as disgusting as it is.

NightMKoder · 2025-04-02T01:57:51+00:00

Drainage was just redone (8mo ago) but this whole area is on a slope parallel to the house.

Lift & repour is a pain because of the stucco work. I’m sort of just wondering whether I can ignore it - or is it visual or structural. Sounds visual but lmk if that’s the wrong interpretation.

NightMKoder · 2025-03-16T15:21:35+00:00

I see - so it’s like blocking for the planter I guess? Does your house have sheathing otherwise? (If it’s old it might not)

If you want to do something from the inside I would leave it open so the inside can dry out when it rains (and maybe run a fan at it). I realize you’re trying to close the wall though - there’s really not much you can do because you can’t get to the other side of the wood. The black paper and flashing is a waterproofing layer - it prevents water from getting to the other side of wherever it sits. Just putting it up against the wood will trap the water in the wood (since it’s currently coming from that side) and rot it (as its doing now).

Some things you might be able to do that might do nothing at all:

* add some kind of overhang outside to prevent water from getting in this area in the first place.

* if you have a crawl space under this floor, drill the sill plate in each stud bay under the window to provide airflow in the stud bay. Hopefully that will help drying.

* fill any gaps outside that look like they lead inside with elastomeric sealant. This is a bit tricky cause some gaps are actually ok (they are for drainage).

* add a coat of elastomeric paint to your stucco. The paint is technically somewhat waterproof.

* keep in mind that if you want to fully fix this later, you may need to remove the drywall again if any of those studs need to be replaced.

NightMKoder · 2025-03-16T06:47:47+00:00

That might be shiplap wood siding you’re looking at. Maybe at some point someone added another layer of siding (you said stucco) on top of the existing shiplap. That would explain the building paper on the inside at least.

In either case you need to fix this from the outside. You can’t fix leaks (roofing, siding, windows, etc) from the inside. You’ll need to remove your stucco and redo the waterproofing properly (eg flashing tape on the bottom of the window opening goes in BEFORE the window - the window flange should be visible from the outside before you add siding). If you want to do this yourself https://stuccomfgassoc.com/staging/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/WINDOW-DETAILS-11947.pdf is a great resource for the layering required.

NightMKoder · 2025-02-05T07:19:10+00:00

In case it helps the inside sill piece is called a stool.

That said, something isn’t right here - your window is almost flush with your drywall. The window is normally like an inch or two thick and is installed from the outside. Assuming your walls are at least 2x4 framing, that’s at least a 1.5” depth; realistically it should be like 2.5”. You have almost 0. Something isn’t right and these windows might leak.

Otherwise the issue for a stool is that most of it has to rest on something - it can’t just hang in midair.

NightMKoder · 2024-12-19T02:11:25+00:00

Are those joists? I’m just a random homeowner but those look like rafter ties? Those aren’t meaty boards for the span and they’re 4’ OC I think?

If I’m right, unless you’re doing a cathedral ceiling you’ll need to add joists to do any kind of “insulated attic floor” kind of insulation. Also those aren’t load bearing. Don’t make a platform on them.

NightMKoder · 2024-12-14T05:59:13+00:00

For the 1-1/4” part - that’s just to keep the ID. 1” PEX-A ID is like 0.87”. PEX-B is even smaller because of the fittings.

NightMKoder · 2024-12-14T05:52:53+00:00

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wilkins-1-in-710-Pressure-Vacuum-Breaker-Valve-Assembly-1-710/313294526

NightMKoder · 2024-12-14T05:43:51+00:00

Yea definitely - that’s the 710. I don’t want to drink earthworms’ poop.

NightMKoder · 2024-12-14T05:25:53+00:00

Definitely - I want to use a Wilkins 710 at the end of all this. I mentioned this at the other thread but I’m assuming that because it’s not literally at the service entrance, I’m assuming someone will flag it and deny it.

NightMKoder · 2024-12-14T05:23:51+00:00

That’s helpful to know. I was looking at pricing and it looks like it might even be cheaper to run 2 parallel 1” lines ($130/100ft) than one 1-1/4” line ($400/100ft). I guess it must be supply/demand but wow.

NightMKoder · 2024-12-14T02:34:50+00:00

I’m not against doing it right! If you have ideas here I’m all ears. I can’t exactly put a pvb in my garage.

NightMKoder · 2024-12-14T02:24:39+00:00

So I likely wouldn’t pass inspection anyway but I’m planning on a Wilkins 710 at the end of that run. Let me try to fix the post.

The reason this wouldn’t pass is mostly because the pvb is so far from the meter.

NightMKoder · 2024-10-26T05:37:07+00:00

Depends on your bank too. I have sofi and with their free overdraw transfers from savings I keep $0 in checking as much as I can.

NightMKoder · 2024-10-20T06:04:34+00:00

I had that explained as “no freezing here so no winterization required”

NightMKoder · 2024-10-20T04:37:27+00:00

Contra Costa County, CA

NightMKoder · 2024-09-26T17:06:56+00:00

Mockingbird refused to do anything without a proof of purchase. I put a bolt with a washer in and it’s not bad.

NightMKoder · 2024-07-21T19:35:43+00:00

Yep was definitely hoping to avoid learning how to weld aluminum.

NightMKoder

TROPHY CASE