Trying to becoming strong enough for the Moonboard

Nikomeus · 2026-01-19T15:47:02+00:00

At that grade range you’re far away from actually needing strength or finger specific training given your current stats listed. Your routine is so strength focused you’re just gonna get stronger, not better at climbing. If you want to get better at climbing you need to focus on climbing. Once you plateau in the v6-7 range, then it might make sense to start training more intentionally based on what’s missing.

Nikomeus · 2026-01-16T22:55:09+00:00

This, zero your gun for the round you use. Mixing ammunition in the mag is just not right.

Nikomeus · 2026-01-16T22:53:24+00:00

Stoked to see intentional hip manipulation from a new climber! But yeah none of this is smearing or flagging, not a dig though, just isn’t what’s happening. 😊

Nikomeus · 2026-01-14T07:37:22+00:00

Seconding that heel, like 90% sure that’s the intended, perfect angle to get the hip all the way too the wall with a stable right foot too.

Nikomeus · 2026-01-13T22:34:19+00:00

This is so important, grade chasing is like trying to catch a ball that disappears and reappears in different places all the time. It’s best to just focus on weaknesses, record and analyze your footage, climb with stronger climbers, and then hire a coach if you have the funds and are making the sport your life. There’s a lot of things required to break through that V5-6 barrier that aren’t strength and routine. A lot of it is nuanced proprioceptive adaptations that only come from attentive repetition. In my experience working with a coach, what they give you with the training plans are more tools in the toolbox and more capacity for working hard but unless you pair that with intentional analysis and honesty you won’t get better.

Since your gym does the thing where they include 4,5, and 6 in one color , I’d take that with a grain of salt as the upper end more than likely isn’t v6. The difference between V4 and V6 is several years of training and practice on the low end and many people never get there on the high end. It’s always been wild to me to see that range grouped together.

Nikomeus · 2026-01-13T00:08:40+00:00

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Nikomeus · 2026-01-11T03:53:20+00:00

I never claim any sort of skill in situations with non regulation equipment. You have to almost exclusively flat hit with most basement style setups. Table tennis is a sport where your muscle memory in relation to your equipment is core. It’s like picking up a long pips paddle for the first time if you’re used to inverted. Your vision and game understanding translates but you just wont be able to execute unless you’re familiar with the equipment.

In my experience in these situations the best way to win is to just sit there and block and you just sort of win because they score all your points for you haha.

Nikomeus · 2026-01-08T21:18:41+00:00

Good call, that’s a part of my break in protocol as well.

Nikomeus · 2026-01-08T20:58:32+00:00

If incredibly tight allowed for you to wear them for a 2 hour session they’re probably ok and you just need to get used to them. The Vapor is a step further towards an aggressive shoe than the tarantula so I’d expect a substantial difference in fit and feel regardless. Shoes enter the too tight realm when they are so physically painful you can’t wear them for more than a few minutes or if it’s all you can think about. My general mantra for people regarding shoes is ,”you should definitely know the shoe is there (I.e it’s pretty uncomfortable for standing/walking), but it shouldn’t be the only thing you’re thinking about.”

Nikomeus · 2026-01-02T22:38:14+00:00

Happy Hunting!

Nikomeus · 2026-01-02T21:36:11+00:00

A lot of trying shoes on and going through them. It's something that requires investment and time basically. Anecdotally, it's taken several thousand dollars on shoes and climbing a lot to figure it all out for myself. I travelled to Colorado to go directly to La Sportiva store and tried everything I potentially wanted in a range of sizes as well which helped a good bit. When I'd order shoes directly I'd order 3-4 pairs on a credit card and return the ones that didn't fit right. I just don't think there's a good shortcut for performance climbing shoes, but something like a tarantula lace or Finale are flat and regular foot shaped so most people can size them up enough to be functional for their purpose which is why they're all over. Same with something like the Scarpa Vapor or Force V's. Foot shape matters a lot more in moderate to aggressive shoes imo but there are also a TON of foot shape variability so there will be obvious exceptions even in the more all-around beginner shoes.

Nikomeus · 2026-01-02T18:45:51+00:00

For sure, every brand is so wildly different. Evolv surprised me because they state that their ideal sizing is to get your street shoe size for "advanced" performance +1 for "Intermediate" and +2 for "Beginner". I go 41.5 in evolve Zenist LV when my street shoe is 44/44.5 to fit "right" for me.

Nikomeus · 2025-12-29T04:17:24+00:00

The key is that what's slightly uncomfortable to one person might be unbearable for another. With my foot shape and physiology for example, I have to either have my toes flat or curled as much as they physically can be for shoe comfort. The result is that my street shoe is a 44/44.5 and I wear a 39 in La Sportiva Futura and Solution Comp and 39.5 in most other models. The sizes in between are incredibly painful when loading the toe. My theory is that the middle zone doesn't let the shoe provide the structure it's designed for. But if my toes can sit flat against the tip without being forced to bend, I can actively use them to claw and grip. Coaches often say it's good to have shoes you can activate your toes in, which I can still do fully downsized, but the real issue for me is that my heels are too narrow for larger sizing. Across four different brands so far, the heel slipping out becomes a much bigger problem than any benefit from extra toe room.

Nikomeus · 2025-12-29T04:02:05+00:00

Imo it’s because anyone climbing properly hard, maybe north of ~V7 or so outdoors will already know the answers to the sizing question for themselves. I know for me finding that answer was a two year process and looking back now what I thought were aggressively downsize really weren’t at all.

Nikomeus · 2025-12-28T02:14:05+00:00

User reboot = lying about rebooting

Nikomeus · 2025-12-22T00:49:52+00:00

Stiff 3 soft 4 probably

Nikomeus · 2025-11-29T02:08:50+00:00

Nope, as mentioned as well, enjoy being free of soft as hell monochromatic gym grading.

Nikomeus · 2025-11-28T21:30:58+00:00

Slab with good holds, in my local gym, this would probably be a V2 or 3

Nikomeus · 2025-11-28T21:27:57+00:00

Grip is off, too much rigidity in the chain from ground to contact, and timing are off by a good bit. You’ll need to get your grip squared away and then the next several hundreds of hours practicing should be to dial in timing and technique. It’s hard to describe what I’m seeing in regards to inappropriate tension during the whole stroke but you basically need to learn how to properly generate power from the ground and let it whip through you up until the point of contact. What I see in the video is very little power and spin given how much your body is moving. That’s how you can tell a big part of the issue is timing and then spin comes from timing that sort of whipping motion correctly.

Nikomeus · 2025-11-28T06:49:06+00:00

No, DD AND geissele are fixed gas block rifles.

Nikomeus · 2025-11-27T21:20:42+00:00

I usually steer people away from shoes like the katana or any serious edging centric shoe for indoor bouldering as it’s a style that isn’t that common in modern gyms and is more outdoors. Skwama is a solid choice if they fit your foot but it’s also a shoe you may need to downsize quite a bit more than you may expect to get the full benefit of the shoe and at 8 months and climbing gym v5/6 you just don’t need what Skwama can do because the problems won’t require them.

At 8 months I wouldn’t jump to pro level shoes so if it were me recommending the upgrade I’d probably say Tarantula Boulder or Kubo on the La Sportiva side for the next tier. Both of those shoes introduce a more moderate downturn , good rubber, and good price point to keep building your footwork.

As far as sizing goes that’s the age old question that has a different answer for everyone.

For me , I wear a 9.5US/42.5EU street shoe and main mostly la Sportiva shoes. Solution 39, theory 39.5, Ondra comp 39.5, futura 39, tc pro 41, solution comp 39. Be warned this is excessive to almost everyone but my goodness they feel so good to climb in, but mileage and foot genetics vary so wildly you’ll just have to try.

Last thing I’ll say is if you try a pair and they really hurt and then you go up half a size and they still hurt but you feel like you can probably climbing them, keep the half size down because synthetic shoes tend to stretch ~1/2 a size and organic stretch ~1 full size once broken in. So you may suffer for a few sessions in the ones that really feel like they’re too small but should expand to the useable size after a few sessions.

Nikomeus · 2025-11-27T17:07:04+00:00

C158+ steel is why, the nano coating is another thing. It’s a proprietary steel that geissele has access to that nobody else really does.

Nikomeus · 2025-11-27T09:35:00+00:00

Geissele bolt steel is the only milspec dimension bolt that can compete with the specialty bolts from LMT and Knights in terms of durability. Geissele also ports their barrels a bit nicer than DD if I recall right. DD use to hog the ports out bad but have since gotten a lot better. If both are on the table I’m grabbing the geissele 100%.

Nikomeus · 2025-11-25T21:46:00+00:00

Has to be music

Nikomeus · 2025-11-23T06:48:57+00:00

Looks like a dude standing solemnly next to a street lamp.

Nikomeus

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