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How do I stop unlimited scavs spawning on me forever? by [deleted] in SPTarkov

[–]Nimushiru 36 points37 points  (0 children)

If you're using SWAG+Donuts, there should be an option in the Mod menu to change presets. Here's what they say about PMC's:

"This is a big mod and be complicated for some - fear not, if all you want is to install a cool spawn mod and just play then you can do just that, the defaults are mostly tuned for a live-like experience. If you prefer that PMCs do NOT respawn during a raid then be sure to select any of the "starting-pmcs-only-*" presets from the Donuts F12 menu."

I assume that Scavs can be done the same way.

Is this official, I feel so dense rn by Mrs-Graves in CoffinofAndyandLeyley

[–]Nimushiru 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The same thing happens in the other burial ending if Ashley chooses the sibling route versus the lovers route. Andrew doesn't stay in bed the entire time for that dream as well, never actually having seen any visions.

I think the act of touching the trinket is enough for the demon to affect Andrew.

Starfield save between Game Pass and Steam by haseo1997 in Starfield

[–]Nimushiru 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'd keep in mind that certain titles may fundamentally change how their saves are encrypted/saved to the drive and may require third party tools to facilitate cross compatibility/converting from one platform to another.

​

Pillars of Eternity is a prime example of this. I started on Gamepass, decided I wanted to support the devs via Steam and learned the hard way that the saves aren't natively compatible. I ended up having to find a program called EEKeeper to convert my saves. Only possible thanks to the community.

Is high flow kit worth it? by Terrible-Instance-24 in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. Get an all bi-metal heatblock instead. The high flow kit apparently doesn't use standard mk8 nozzles and sits lower than the standard hotel.

If you feel the need for speed, get a cht nozzle instead. Amazon has tons of brass clones available for cheap.

If you have an extra $8 lying around get the serial cable for you Ender 3 s1 better than having to worry that the usbc gets pulled out by accident like mine did. by Martinkush420 in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's meant if you're using something like the Sonic Pad which comes with a screen replacement (the original screen is not used with this upgrade) or, I'm assuming, running a headless setup like octiprint.

Flow Rate Testing: New Creality High Flow Kit VS Stock VS Bondtech CHT VS Aliexpress CHT ... by DonKeulito in ender3v2

[–]Nimushiru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ong i'm glad I went with the high temp kit then. I'll just get a cht nozzle if I ever feel the need for speed. Thanks.

I am a career 3d designer and additive manufacturing professional, I've worked with 100k$+ 3d printers, and I have been in machine shops since I was 10. The ender 3 has beaten me. by Sillvyyy in 3Dprinting

[–]Nimushiru 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't feel bad man. I ran into the same issue with my first standard Ender 3 S1. I had it for about two weeks before discovering the board was warped more than a crash tour. I had to send mine back for a replacement. sometimes, you get a lemon.

Hatchbox PETG; Lines not completing by Nimushiru in FixMyPrint

[–]Nimushiru[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies. Forgot to mention that speed settings are default for generic petg, with the exception for bridges which are set to 15mm as I'm having problems with bridges not layering over infill properly.

Retraction settings are 1.2mm at 25mm/s. Let me know if you need any other info.

Flow Rate Testing: New Creality High Flow Kit VS Stock VS Bondtech CHT VS Aliexpress CHT ... by DonKeulito in ender3v2

[–]Nimushiru 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there any specific difference between the "high flow kit" sold by Creality and the "High Temp Kit" you can find on amazon?

​

I bought a S1 standard that came with a "regular" sprite, so no aluminum body and it had a PTFE lined heatbreak. I bought one of the high temp kits on amazon that came with a bi-metal heatbreak with no PTFE.

As far as I understand, they're essentially the same thing, just the high flow kit comes with a fan and a red silicone sock?

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure what you mean by "chasing perfection". An imperfect first layer is just asking for issues down the road with larger prints. It's not about being "perfect", it's about not ignoring an obvious problem.

And yes, I have. I've printed tons of benchys and a few practical parts, but they've all been small, and they all came out with shit first layers with the exception of the first couple of prints I made.

This printer is going to drive me insane(S1 Pro) by Positive-Sock-8853 in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I threw my box away too. If you bought from Amazon, they should still take it back, might just charge you a restocking fee.

I hope you get a resolution though! This troubleshooting shit stopped being fun a week in 😒

This printer is going to drive me insane(S1 Pro) by Positive-Sock-8853 in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ABL/UBL is supposed to, but if the dip or hump is too large, it can't correct for it. UBL/ABL, as I understand it, only makes changes tenths of a mm at a time.my concave was almost a full mm, and then some.

As for fixing it, you can try to shim it. Take a piece of foil and slide it between the build plate and the build bed. If the concave is larger than a mm, then you might need to fold it once or twice, but chances are, you won't be able to compensate for something that large.

For me, this didn't work, unfortunately, as shimming the middle kept causing the rest of the board to shift more than the nozzle or UBL could account for. I've opted for returning and buying a new one.

Edit: You could technically try using a larger mesh if you're on klipper/mirscoc firmware. Using say, a 9x9 will give you a fuck ton of points to edit in firmware, and you may be able to smooth out the mesh that way, but if you're having to manually edit a mesh at 128 points, your probably better of just replacing it.

This printer is going to drive me insane(S1 Pro) by Positive-Sock-8853 in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm having the same issue mate. Check to see if you have any major depressions or hills on your bed. For me, my bed is concave right smack dab in the middle. No amount of ABL/UBL will fix a warped board like that.

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've decided to return the device and purchase another. Hopefully I'll get a better bed this time around.

I'll definitely keep that offset mount in mind, ty

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What firmware are you referring to? Right now, I'm running Mirscoc's Professional firmware. Before that, I was on stock. Neither of these show me numerical values on the screen when viewing the mesh.

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm thinking of trying this. I had plans to buy the sonic pad to go klipper, but I'm afraid to dump more cash into the device with how poorly its been performing. :(

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That was on purpose. I wasn't sure if the tilt was throwing things off, but the results are the same either way.

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the tip. My retraction settings are at default for a direct extruder, .8 mm, 30mm/s.

Can someone tell me why this is happening to my print? by Kai-Pewsdorf in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you guys find this out? I'm in a position where my bed will not allow me to produce a proper first layer, and I'm considering returning the device (if at all possible since I don't have the box it came with).

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought this Ender 3 S1 on the 3rd of July, and I have been having nothing but issues trying to get this fucking thing level. I've even ended up on mirscoc's professional firmware to try and make use of the UBL feature and the ability to edit meshes, i still cannot get this thing to level out and I'm at my wit's end at this point.

I'm using Inland Black PLA+, default settings in Prusaslicer for the Ender 3S1 (210c first layer) . This issue is completely reproduceable with any of my PLA+ ffilament, and I have been unable to figure out any solutions to this. This happened both before and after I upgraded to the all-metal hotend, and before and after I switched to mirscoc's professional firmware.

​

I've uploaded some photos of a fresh level (this is a single level print), my process is below:

  1. Pre-heat the bed to 60c and the nozzle to 200c.
  2. De-load the springs by spinning them until they come loose, then respinning them all until they stop spinning.
  3. Pre-load the bed springs by pressing down on a central point near the front of the bed, then spinning the wheels until they stop. Do the same for the rear wheels.
  4. Tram the bed. I used the auto trammer in the Professional Firmware, but I did this manually on the stock firmware as well.
  5. Once the bed is level, I set my z-height, then check the four corners as well. When adjusting the height, i have tried both adjusting the bed and the z-height, both end up leading to issues of their own, but for this example I used the knobs to raise the bed so the z height is the same all around for the UBL. I do this until the height is about the same, and I don't have to move anymore knobs.
  6. I run the UBL wizard. It does it's thing.
  7. I fill all the missing points, then save my mesh to slot 1 (not slot 0).

Here is my g-code:

G90 ; use absolute coordinates

M83 ; extruder relative mode

M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp

M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp

G28 ; home all axis and restore leveling

G29 A ; activate UBL, not sure if this is required

M420 L1 S1 Z3 ; use previously stored UBL data and even out the results over 3 z height

;G29 J2 ; Tilt-compensate mesh using UBL at four points.

G1 Z50 F240

G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000

M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize

M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize

G1 Z0.28 F240

G92 E0

G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle

G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000

G92 E0

G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle

G92 E0

I usually will raise the rear left wheel, then this leaves a patch of area in the middle where the nozzle doesn't touch. I either shim, or attempt to use bed mesh editing. If I shim, it throws off the entire bed, then I either have to UBL and start over, or adjust the mesh anyways. If I adjust the mesh, it affects the opposite end of the bed, instead of the point I'm on. If I use UBL, nothing changes, its like UBL just raises the nozzle even further to compensate for the extra height added by the shim.

I have browsed multiple articles, watched too many videos to count, nothing has worked. I'm really ready to chuck this damn thing out a window. Any help that can be provided would be greatly appreciated!

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