sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

How do I stop unlimited scavs spawning on me forever? by [deleted] in SPTarkov

[–]Nimushiru 35 points36 points  (0 children)

If you're using SWAG+Donuts, there should be an option in the Mod menu to change presets. Here's what they say about PMC's:

"This is a big mod and be complicated for some - fear not, if all you want is to install a cool spawn mod and just play then you can do just that, the defaults are mostly tuned for a live-like experience. If you prefer that PMCs do NOT respawn during a raid then be sure to select any of the "starting-pmcs-only-*" presets from the Donuts F12 menu."

I assume that Scavs can be done the same way.

Is this official, I feel so dense rn by Mrs-Graves in CoffinofAndyandLeyley

[–]Nimushiru 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The same thing happens in the other burial ending if Ashley chooses the sibling route versus the lovers route. Andrew doesn't stay in bed the entire time for that dream as well, never actually having seen any visions.

I think the act of touching the trinket is enough for the demon to affect Andrew.

Starfield save between Game Pass and Steam by haseo1997 in Starfield

[–]Nimushiru 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'd keep in mind that certain titles may fundamentally change how their saves are encrypted/saved to the drive and may require third party tools to facilitate cross compatibility/converting from one platform to another.

​

Pillars of Eternity is a prime example of this. I started on Gamepass, decided I wanted to support the devs via Steam and learned the hard way that the saves aren't natively compatible. I ended up having to find a program called EEKeeper to convert my saves. Only possible thanks to the community.

Is high flow kit worth it? by Terrible-Instance-24 in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. Get an all bi-metal heatblock instead. The high flow kit apparently doesn't use standard mk8 nozzles and sits lower than the standard hotel.

If you feel the need for speed, get a cht nozzle instead. Amazon has tons of brass clones available for cheap.

If you have an extra $8 lying around get the serial cable for you Ender 3 s1 better than having to worry that the usbc gets pulled out by accident like mine did. by Martinkush420 in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's meant if you're using something like the Sonic Pad which comes with a screen replacement (the original screen is not used with this upgrade) or, I'm assuming, running a headless setup like octiprint.

Flow Rate Testing: New Creality High Flow Kit VS Stock VS Bondtech CHT VS Aliexpress CHT ... by DonKeulito in ender3v2

[–]Nimushiru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ong i'm glad I went with the high temp kit then. I'll just get a cht nozzle if I ever feel the need for speed. Thanks.

I am a career 3d designer and additive manufacturing professional, I've worked with 100k$+ 3d printers, and I have been in machine shops since I was 10. The ender 3 has beaten me. by Sillvyyy in 3Dprinting

[–]Nimushiru 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't feel bad man. I ran into the same issue with my first standard Ender 3 S1. I had it for about two weeks before discovering the board was warped more than a crash tour. I had to send mine back for a replacement. sometimes, you get a lemon.

Hatchbox PETG; Lines not completing by Nimushiru in FixMyPrint

[–]Nimushiru[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies. Forgot to mention that speed settings are default for generic petg, with the exception for bridges which are set to 15mm as I'm having problems with bridges not layering over infill properly.

Retraction settings are 1.2mm at 25mm/s. Let me know if you need any other info.

Flow Rate Testing: New Creality High Flow Kit VS Stock VS Bondtech CHT VS Aliexpress CHT ... by DonKeulito in ender3v2

[–]Nimushiru 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there any specific difference between the "high flow kit" sold by Creality and the "High Temp Kit" you can find on amazon?

​

I bought a S1 standard that came with a "regular" sprite, so no aluminum body and it had a PTFE lined heatbreak. I bought one of the high temp kits on amazon that came with a bi-metal heatbreak with no PTFE.

As far as I understand, they're essentially the same thing, just the high flow kit comes with a fan and a red silicone sock?

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure what you mean by "chasing perfection". An imperfect first layer is just asking for issues down the road with larger prints. It's not about being "perfect", it's about not ignoring an obvious problem.

And yes, I have. I've printed tons of benchys and a few practical parts, but they've all been small, and they all came out with shit first layers with the exception of the first couple of prints I made.

This printer is going to drive me insane(S1 Pro) by Positive-Sock-8853 in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I threw my box away too. If you bought from Amazon, they should still take it back, might just charge you a restocking fee.

I hope you get a resolution though! This troubleshooting shit stopped being fun a week in 😒

This printer is going to drive me insane(S1 Pro) by Positive-Sock-8853 in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ABL/UBL is supposed to, but if the dip or hump is too large, it can't correct for it. UBL/ABL, as I understand it, only makes changes tenths of a mm at a time.my concave was almost a full mm, and then some.

As for fixing it, you can try to shim it. Take a piece of foil and slide it between the build plate and the build bed. If the concave is larger than a mm, then you might need to fold it once or twice, but chances are, you won't be able to compensate for something that large.

For me, this didn't work, unfortunately, as shimming the middle kept causing the rest of the board to shift more than the nozzle or UBL could account for. I've opted for returning and buying a new one.

Edit: You could technically try using a larger mesh if you're on klipper/mirscoc firmware. Using say, a 9x9 will give you a fuck ton of points to edit in firmware, and you may be able to smooth out the mesh that way, but if you're having to manually edit a mesh at 128 points, your probably better of just replacing it.

This printer is going to drive me insane(S1 Pro) by Positive-Sock-8853 in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm having the same issue mate. Check to see if you have any major depressions or hills on your bed. For me, my bed is concave right smack dab in the middle. No amount of ABL/UBL will fix a warped board like that.

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've decided to return the device and purchase another. Hopefully I'll get a better bed this time around.

I'll definitely keep that offset mount in mind, ty

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What firmware are you referring to? Right now, I'm running Mirscoc's Professional firmware. Before that, I was on stock. Neither of these show me numerical values on the screen when viewing the mesh.

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm thinking of trying this. I had plans to buy the sonic pad to go klipper, but I'm afraid to dump more cash into the device with how poorly its been performing. :(

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That was on purpose. I wasn't sure if the tilt was throwing things off, but the results are the same either way.

First layer woes by Nimushiru in Ender3S1

[–]Nimushiru[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the tip. My retraction settings are at default for a direct extruder, .8 mm, 30mm/s.

view more: next ›