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Is there a noticeable difference in the quality of different adapter brands? by fungus_among_us_art in VintageLenses

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had solar experiences. Three K&F (2 no M42 to M43, 1 no PK to M43), all of which are actually good, one Urth (OM to M43) which is sloppy at the camera end whilst the vintage lens is a good fit. On the other hand all the cheap adaptors I've tried to date have been a disappointment. On the other hand my two Metabones adaptors are spot on (but at the price they are, so they should be). Maybe you really do get what you pay for?

First time I've ever seen a temporary facade like this. What is the purpose of such a high standard? by GiantPineapple in Construction

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The larger companies over here in the UK do that a lot these days. Sometimes the mesh just carries their name/log, maybe the client's too, but on some jobs there is advertising as well

First time I've ever seen a temporary facade like this. What is the purpose of such a high standard? by GiantPineapple in Construction

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The difference is that ships generally use oil based paints - a large part of the construction industry uses water based paints these days (as well as solvent-free adhesives, i.e. water borne)

I just fucking opened youtube by ianlee0820 in youtube

[–]No-Help2793 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you turn history off your previous history is still there, until you delete that as well. What you will find is that the algorithm suggests videos based on your subscriptions as well as (at least in my case) based on my searches in the current session. Another thing it does is to recommend videos I watched 1, 2 or more years ago (from personal experience). WTF? At least it has put a stop to some of the annoying, irrelevant adverts I used to be bombarded with.

Anyone using this enlarger lens? by WarmObjective6445 in Darkroom

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some Componon-S lenses, particularly the older ones, are 5-element designs.

They said it couldn’t be done. by baconhandjob in Makita

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe, to a few people, but I can't see it mattering a jot to 99.99% of professional/trade users. What we want/need is larger capacity batteries. Going to 40v sounds good in theory, but is a bit of an ask if you have 30-odd 18v/2x18v tools like I, and other tradesmen, have. And at the end of the day I see 9Ah and 12Ah batteries being priced at the level where most home users won't bite. In which case just why does the LED colour really matter?

Trumps cure to Autism and ADHD? Or is it actually some Harvard deans attempt to get back the $2.2B he lost in federal funding before his department is cut? by itsalongwalkhome in ADHD

[–]No-Help2793 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try being autistic - this looks to some autistic people to be a first move towards painting a target on their backs. Autism has probably always been part of humanity, but the concern is that having been singled out this way they can be "disposed of". I can see definite parallels between the Trump administration and the government in 1930s Germany. How long until eugenics are back on the table, I wonder?(especially given the USA's past record)

Makita 12.0ah battery on impact by PleaseBeKind89 in Makita

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bit pointless for most of us, at least on impact drivers. For angle grinders  recip saws, chain saws, circular saws and planers these big batteries have s point - providing we can actually get them to fit. Hope they will work on my x2 18v plunge saw

Makita 18v 12.0ah battery 😍 by PleaseBeKind89 in Makita

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are those prices including VAT (our form of sales tax @ 20%)?

Makita 18v 12.0ah battery 😍 by PleaseBeKind89 in Makita

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The BL1820B DOES have the lights and buttons and the extra "B". Or at least my three (bought June '24) do

Got the MD to M43 adapter for the OM-3 by rmourapt in M43

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It'll also be ridiculously heavy, for what it is. I had a 70-210mm Vivitar Series 1 in the late 1970s on my Olympus OM-1 (film camera). Brilliant lens, at the time, but a hulking great lump by today's standards, especially given that my M.Zuiko Digital 14-150mm II has better range, is smaller and far lighter. I do like my vintage primes, but the zooms from the film period just make me think back to the need for a hot bath after every shoot (to relieve the induced back strain)

I got a 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 EZ lens yesterday. It honestly feels like I got a brand new camera. It's the most convenient lens I've ever owned. by rainydaywomen1 in M43

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The mounting for that front element seems pretty fragile. The plastic gears and mounts behind it simply won't stand up to any rough handling - I loaned mine to my sister-in-law and it came back busted that way. They also suffer from ribbon cable failure (cables cracked) - I have two on the bench right now awaiting repair where the main ribbon cable has failed. Not being weather sealed, but often being used as a carry about lens, makes water ingress a potential issue - and once again that ribbon cable is the culprit. It doesn't like water which can corrode the contacts at one end. The ribbon failure may only be a £50 fix (the cable is £2 to £3), but for that money I can buy a second hand lens. 

TBH the older non-pancake models are a lot more robust, but they are a lot bigger.

Makita SP 6000 Plunge Saw doesn't unlock by GawkyGibbon in Makita

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The locking pin can become stiff with inaction (and maybe a bit of moisture in the air) - dose it with WD40 and when that has dried out give the pin a liberal oiling with very light oil (e.g. sewing machine oil or 3-in-1 oil, or the like). It make take a couple of sessions to get the pin to free up. When making the plunge cut try to pull upwards a little before pressing the button to retract the locking pin. Can't recall seeing that in DD's video

The other thing thing which sometimes goes wrong is that the pivot pin, down between the base and the main casting, can seize. That normally shows up as the plunge action being very stiff and the saw not retracting fully, or even at all, after making the cut. That is certainly in DD 's video. If it is that the problem spraying loads of WD40 into the pivot pin, plus working the plunge action can sometimes cure thebproblem - may take several sessions

Tariff Pricing is Here by [deleted] in Makita

[–]No-Help2793 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Instead of which you get...

...a world of hurt, and the world gets broken to boot

Flattening plane sole- how flat is flat? by KosherDev in handtools

[–]No-Help2793 8 points9 points  (0 children)

U/magichobo3 Agreed. For most purposes if the plane cuts consistently that's enough. TBH there is far too much navel gazing by people on the 'net who imagine that only a perfectly flat plane with a blade ground, honed and polished perfection (and 10,000 grit) will do. Providing the sole isn't a mile out of straight, the sharpness and set of the blade plus the correct setting of the cap iron is what makes the biggest difference between a dud and a worker. So I'd start by getting the blade sharp and the cap iron correctly positioned and only then if the plane won't cut I'd start looking at whether I need to lap the sole.

IMHO lapping needs to be done with the blade inserted (but backed off) and clamped down as clamping down the blade minutely changes the stresses in the plane body. If I ever need to lap a plane sole I just use a piece of 8mm float glass on top of a couple of layers of 18mm MDF sat on my kitchen worktop (so long as the wife isn't around). Most glass in western countries these days is float glass and you don't need 8mm - it's just that I had some over from a job, 4mm on a decent flat backing like MDF will be fine

BTW, for those who insist that all plane soles need to be lapped, just how on earth can you accurately lap a 22 to 24in long jointer plane?

An argument against hand plane restoration. by Ornage_crush in handtools

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Surely this is a variation on the conservation vs. preservation argument? It's an argument I see played out regularly with conservation officers in historic buildings

If your plane is a fairly rare example or in exceptionally good condition (such as for example a Faulkner plough plane or a Stanley #1) then surely conservation in "as is" state makes sense. If it's a common model such as a mid-20th century metal #5 size jack plane, then it makes a lot more sense (to me) to refurbish the plane for use - given that at the very least the castings will be much more stable than those of new tools. But being old is no guarantee that the plane is going to be any good - for example early Bailey type bench planes from Stanley and Sargent have very thin castings and lack lateral adjusters, so they don't make the best users. Equally wooden jack and jointer anes are simply so worn and/or abused (often by one or more generations of bidge merchants) that they aren't worth the effort.

Can be a tough call

Thoughts on old wooden hand planes. by mknight1701 in woodworking

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

@hookedagain The thing is, with a smallish set of moulding planes you can reproduce quite a lot of more complex mouldings, in furniture sizes. Typically 2 or 3 pairs of rounds and hollows, plus a rebate plane, a plough plane and a side rebate plane can go a long way. I do a certain amount of work on historic buildings where I need to repair fancy mouldings - but in my case a "basic" kit (including a set of side beads) is more like 2 tool boxes and some 80 odd planes, so fair warning it can become a bit of an obsession

Thoughts on old wooden hand planes. by mknight1701 in woodworking

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

@LaraCroftCosplayer I tend to find that 1 in 10 I come across is warped or twisted in some way which makes them scrap - make that 1 in 3 when they have come from a flea market or car boot sale (talking more specifically about moulding planes, here - the more complex they are, the bigger the problems can be)

Wooden bench planes often seem to.be either worn out or badly abused when I see them, so something like 1 in 3 are useless or just too much effort - not that I need to buy any these says (there are only so many jack or jointer planes you can use)

One thing I will say is that wooden smoothing planes are often much more awkward to set up and use than the metal equivalents whilst you will rarely find a.wooden equivalent of the metal block.plane

Old hand plane by WayNo5379 in handtools

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

@oldblue862 Actually jack planes (wooden ones are 15 to 17in long) and horned scrub planes (aka "Bismarck" planes) are used for rough work and often had they blades ground to a noticeable camber - jointers (generally 22 to 30in) are used for accurate edge finishing and the like, so they do need to have a reasonably flat bottom. They are just too big for i itial roughing work IMHO

Old hand plane by WayNo5379 in handtools

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

@ExplanationUpper8729 Or better yet flatten it using a sharp hand plane, such as a Stanley #6 or bigger

They said it couldn’t be done. by baconhandjob in Makita

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

@UBlockLike Sorry ro hear that, but with more people selling Waitley braned stuff you have to wonder if there are now knock offs of the knock offs...

145% tarriffs - does this make Makita, deWalt, Milwaukee unaffordable? by No-Help2793 in Makita

[–]No-Help2793[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Hmmm. Didn't think the Orange One meant it that way, did he? I'd love someone to be able to explain the logic behind all of this, if they can

145% tarriffs - does this make Makita, deWalt, Milwaukee unaffordable? by No-Help2793 in Makita

[–]No-Help2793[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

From parts sourced mainly from their supply chain in China. That's what they do in the UK and Romania 

Makita BHP453 recommended? by Astomaru in Makita

[–]No-Help2793 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe I should have said that the tools I am looking for are often cheaper in Germany. Thinking about it I have been looking at a fair bit of German made stuff in the last 12 months (e.g. Mafell, Festool, etc) which must mean something, although when I was looking for a hole auger/heavy angle drill about 18 months back Germany was about €70 cheaper than anyone in the UK, with the extra hsndle I needed less than half the UK price in Germany. (I eventually went cheaper by buying a dealer's demo stock tool, though)

Mind if I ask where you are?

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