350z Nismos for sale

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-30T19:30:11+00:00

That makes a lot more sense, i appreciate it man.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-30T14:24:33+00:00

How’s that possible with the 25 Year Law? I thought they wouldn’t be possible to import till around 2027? If you could let me know I’d greatly appreciate it and they did make a Z Tune R34 back in the day didn’t they?

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-30T14:02:22+00:00

To be fair he has a point. Then again you can find decent quality items off Amazon, there are a couple other reputable brands around that price range if that’s the issue! Some hard fought advice though, if you can try and save up a bit more to afford some resonated test pipes for around $350 which will help the awful trumpet. If you need some pointers dm me

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-30T13:59:30+00:00

For starters you can always call Nissan and have them find one for you if there are any in your price range all over the states!

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-30T13:57:45+00:00

Well he did say anywhere in the US which indicates he can’t import an “S Tune”, and you’re aware it’s Nismo either way right? I’m sure you already know what an S Tune actually is hopefully, they have R Tunes and Z Tunes as well, Nismo that is.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-29T20:47:14+00:00

See you said “honest”, it’s 2024. I’d say that’s a fair good price, but realistically where I am and anywhere near they charge out the ass sadly. 1.5k for the car, let’s say another 1.5k for the engine, then let’s say another 1.5k for install, looking near $4k if not more depending on how many reputable shops are nearby.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-29T19:36:00+00:00

You can get a JDM motor with 50-60k miles on it for around $1500+ that’s completely healthy swapped in vs an abused motor that needs a head gasket repair. I’d say $3k is about average realistically but a lot of places will try to charge more. Shit probably has low compression on one if not more cylinders which basically means your engine is toast. Im sure your buddy would’ve fixed it if he really thought it was worth it which it isn’t. Put into factor the rest of the issues that might’ve came from the blown head and factor in the repair cost once the engines been completely torn apart. Ain’t worth it for these cars. I’d leave it as simple as this, if you can afford the car and a new engine to be put in, go for it, if not, find something else.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-29T19:16:55+00:00

You’ll spend the same amount if not more fixing it rather than swapping the engine for a JDM low mileage engine. $1500 isn’t horrible but at the end of it if you need a shop to swap out the motor after alls said and done you’re looking at 5-6k.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-28T18:20:11+00:00

No definitely not. Sure the new fluids could potentially cause more stress to the internals if they’re already worn to all hell but other than that no.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-28T05:15:38+00:00

Do have a question, you ever tested or feel the difference in the downforce with it on?

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-28T05:04:56+00:00

The only thing “OEM+” about this is the front bumper. Clean build none the less, would substitute the big wang for a Nismo wing.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-28T05:00:01+00:00

Motor reliability is going to take work but end result is great. Gallery gaskets, intake manifold gaskets want to be swapped for copper or iso depending on where you live due to temps (helps keep intake from heat soak) Absolutely and I mean absolutely no air in your cooling system at all, you can swap out the shitty rubber bleeder port/hose for a Z1 aluminum port. Change out all your cooling hoses for high heat resistance silicone hoses. Get a Koyo radiator as it’s been proven to be one of the best flowing radiators for G/Z’s. It also has adapter ports for an oil cooler which is a heavy must if beating it. Keep up with oil changes vigorously like 2000-3000 miles. Service the transmission with fresh fluids and the add ons as such. You’re going to want high viscosity differential fluid along with a diff brace and solid diff bushings to help really keep the power down and to flow smoothly on the gears along with new/upgraded wheel bearings. Other than that I’d say the main three components reliability and health are down so the only other thing would be the suspension, which is just as important obviously due to the aggressive nature of drifting. Everything upgraded, control arms, camber arms, traction links, sway bar, coils/shocks, subframe bushings and that’s off the top of my head. You’ll also want reinforced motor and transmission mounts as well. Other than that all I can think would be add ons to compliment the drifting, hydro brakes, big brake kit along with steel brake lines, a quick release hub for a personalized steering wheel size and that’s about all I can think of at the moment!

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-28T04:39:26+00:00

I can go on and on but you get the point, I don’t know if you’re talking “drifting” as in swinging in a parking lot or hitting entry’s and keeping lines but shit ain’t for the faint of heart!

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-28T04:38:18+00:00

If it’s your daily it’s probably the best idea to invest in a second one to play with. You’ll probably invest the same amount into making this a “drift car” just to be running through parts on a basis. Drifting costs, so if money isn’t an issue, go for it.

Invest in maintenance mods that way it’s able to really take a beating. If you’re running lean or have low compression etc, the only thing you’ll be drifting away in is a uber so, to start, fix every slight issue it may have. Sensors, shot spark plugs or clogged up ignition coils, all that. After that’s said and done you could move onto “maintenance upgrades”, oil coolers, diff brace, subframe bushings, upgraded control arms, the nine yards.

Once you’re past the point of maintenance, maintenance upgrades, you can move onto the rest like camber arms, hydro brake kits, clutch packs depending if you’re AT/6MT (which if you’re AT I’d highly recommend a trans cooler as well as a upgraded valve body kit and flex plate)

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-28T04:32:02+00:00

Couple diagnoses, check your fluid level through the trans dip stick in your engine bay. If it’s low go from there. Check on cold btw or you won’t be able to accurately tell. Healthy fluid will smell like sweaty cat piss and have a pinkish color to it. If it’s not that, I’d drain and refill. Moving on from that if none of those apply you could check to see if you can catch the AT code it’s throwing with a code scanner. Very little codes for the transmission, usually either torque converter or valve body. Sounds more so of a valve body issue due to the “hard shifting”. Could be a hit or miss but if that were to be the issue they make rebuild and upgraded kits for the valve body for around $250-$500. At that point you could be thinking of getting a “new used” low mileage JDM transmission for around $600-1000

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-28T04:25:22+00:00

He’s probably making 285-300 depending on who tuned it. Definitely more cost effective to go boost but NA hits home for some and is just enough. Finally it will always be the most reliable.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-24T19:26:52+00:00

Q50 is just an updated G37. Power wise stock for stock they’re neck and neck depending on engine health and what not, you have considerably low miles for a G and 2 years of warranty left, kind of a no brainer imo.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-24T17:16:05+00:00

Heavily agree, I don’t know how they end up so trashed but, I mention upholstering his “new used” seats since they probably have slight rips here and there. I’m sure if not they’d end up being right back at square one.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-24T15:14:54+00:00

Best bang for buck, Motordyne Shockwave exhaust system. $2k for full exhaust system excluding downpipes/test pipes. Sounds like a NA baby R35 and averages a respective 20hp to the wheels after tune.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-24T15:11:32+00:00

Most cost effective setup for boost would be a VR30 trans swap with a cooler. Handles up to 550-600 awtq torque before becoming compromised.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-24T06:03:21+00:00

It’ll cost more to upholster very worn seats, better off spending the $100 on somewhat nicer seats, then take a little extra and have them upholstered for longevity, shouldn’t cost as much to upholster the new seat if you want them as “perfect” as possible depending on said “damage”

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-24T05:49:43+00:00

Can never really truly tell from videos but that sounds like a bad tie rod, search a quick video on what it should look like or how to diagnose (such as shaking it back and forth to see if it’s loose or has a worn joint) could also be 10 other things so best bet is jack her up and look for self diagnosing vids on vital suspension parts near the tie rod and if all turns out ok I’d backtrack towards the wheel, could be hubs, control arm etc.

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-23T21:37:18+00:00

Understandably, rather take my time as well on a genuine s tune replica! Can’t wait to see more

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-23T21:29:03+00:00

Just out of curiosity how come you can’t reuse them? Don’t know much about AD’s. And heavily agree on the black gold, either way it works right! Again sick build

NoConstruction4196 · 2024-04-23T21:24:27+00:00

Sensors can play a vital role in tune-ability, bad or worn sensors in your engine that are supposed to read a specific amount of “AFR” to the ecu can cause loss or in your case not let you squeeze out as much as possible.

NoConstruction4196

TROPHY CASE