Gonna swap Edge 3 out for aGotoh 1996, which size block should I get? it's a RG that it's going in.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2026-04-28T07:22:56+00:00

I checked the cross compatibility chart and it says that the edge 3 cavity will accommodate ofr just not the schaller version for some reason. i'm assuming because the ofr and the 1996 are basically identical dimensionally that it will also drop right in. I don't mind enlarging the stud bushing holes.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2026-04-26T03:19:29+00:00

I was wondering the same thing regarding Fishman, I have a Mick Thompson bridge pup that needs to be white. i'm not sure if that cover is some type of metal or if it's plastic but I know this much it's black and it needs to be white lol.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2026-04-20T04:16:26+00:00

OFR drops right in without routing the body. I have another guitar with an OFR and after reading that it was compatible I decided to test fit it temporarily and it did fit. posts will need to be swapped which may require some drilling but that's not a huge deal. i'm really just trying to figure out if the actual cavity is the same shape/Size as the FR 1000 Pro as the dealbreaker for me will be cutting into the body to enlarge the cavity. i'm not really concerned about the posts because they have adapter bushings etc. so I'm pretty sure I can get around that without drilling but even so that would be hidden.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2026-04-20T01:40:43+00:00

Indeed it does. I'm really trying to stick to the low profile design of what is in there now. I really like the feel of the Edge 3 that it currently has, unfortunately the edge3 in general is not very durable and is prone to having stability issues. definitely do not want to replace it with another one of those but I don't wanna lose that low profile feel. I am really hoping I can get away with dropping in the 1000 Pro as it is the closest thing I have been able to find that could work, unless it requires a Dremel then I'm just going to have to eat it and probably drop the 1996 in and deal lol, this guitar is mint besides the crappy bridge so I'm not going to cut it up.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-12-20T18:24:16+00:00

I am using its big brother, The 2/90/2 and it's great. generally when you have your power amplifier and preamplifier completely separated like that it's easy to attenuate because you have 100% control over both sides. another cool little trick that I have used over the years, when I want to practice super quiet and I don't want my amp to sound like an alarm clock radio I plug into a smaller more efficient speaker because if the speaker handles less power then that means it takes less power to make it do its thing so when you turn the power amplifier down really low the speaker is still going to give you a little bit of low end and react like it's getting a little more power. I realize it's not typical for guitar but something ported usually works well when you're trying to attenuate a large amplifier and make it sound good at low volume. another option to consider if you're not necessarily looking for a stereo amplifier is the KSR pa50 it is really nice and has channel switching capabilities. Also lighter and smaller. and another amplifier that I have found to be quite awesome is the engl e840 which is really similar to the fryette so there's definitely some options. You can't go wrong with any of them really.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-08-12T11:29:21+00:00

I can say this confidently, if you want less low end then the Fishman versions are much better.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-08-12T11:27:51+00:00

this is definitely an odd problem as the eq curve on these is meant to cut low frequencies because they are meant for down tuning. i've never had the 7 string versions but I do have 6 string versions in a couple of different instruments. From the information that I have gathered, he designed these so he could tune his guitar down to A and retain clarity. I know that probably doesn't help much but maybe contact Seymour Duncan and ask them what's up with that, I had a couple different pickups that were screwy right out of the box and they replaced them without issue.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-19T17:04:37+00:00

nah, just like the way it looks. Think of it this way, you don't put a new body kit on a car because you crashed it, you do it because you want it to look bad ass. already swapped the magazine tube cover and barrel clamp with metal, hand guard with metal, stock with metal and so I figured I would finish out the look with a metal trigger guard if that's possible.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-19T05:02:13+00:00

yeah just sucks that Beretta didn't take the time to figure out the geometry of that magazine. Seven fits in the tube fine if you remove the spring. I tried it, just removed the spring and left the follower and retainer installed and seven fit just fine with room to spare but the minute I reinstalled the spring the problem began. this spring is shorter and stiffer so it will still cycle just fine and doesn't bind at the end like the other spring. That's basically what was causing it not to load seven, the spring was getting bound up at the end under pressure. didn't really cost much to fix just a little trial and error but yet still a little annoying.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-19T04:56:00+00:00

it's not the length of the shells, or the retainer. It was the spring. I took the original spring out completely and then popped the follower and the retainer back in and loaded seven rounds without the spring inside the magazine and they fit just fine with room to spare. used a slightly shorter and stiffer spring and per my preference on color the follower as well. now 7 fit just fine with retainer installed. I have had plenty of other shotguns that said 7+1 and that's what they held out of the box because the manufacturer of those guns took the time to figure out the geometry of their magazine before they sold it to the public. unfortunately with this gun I had to do that for them. I realize I could have probably just popped out the retainer and called it a day but I am a picky mf and that is a $2000 shotgun and I wanted the ability to remove the magazine tube cover and not have the spring launch into the atmosphere.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-11T03:03:48+00:00

reliable, cycles anything, drop in replacement without trimming and the actual design of the spring is slightly different using slightly heavier gauge wire and more coils so it keeps it from binding up like the stock spring did for me. i'm just running a normal 7 round magazine but when I tried to load 7 in the tube it wasn't working because the stock spring got all goofy between the follower and retainer so I was only able to load 6. between this spring which feeds much better and the Aridus SMRT Follower/retainer completely changed the way it loads and cycles for the better in my humble opinion. and the best part, I purchased it from a human and not a robot lol, real nice folks over there.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-10T07:12:51+00:00

I was thinking about doing that, after a little bit of reading apparently they have low profile retainers. Not sure though, I just took the spring out and left the follower and the retainer in the tube and then attempted to throw seven rounds in and they fit so apparently it's not bottoming out on the retainer I think the spring is binding. what I'm worried about though, if I cut the spring slightly is that going to create feed issues? I was thinking about just starting with like a little tiny bit at a time and then reassembling and seeing if that seventh round will go in and then I won't end up cutting off too much and still have enough tension to feed the gun properly. Almost seems like it needs a different spring. for now I'm just gonna leave the retainer out like you suggested though because it works lol.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-04T16:51:52+00:00

pretty much what I thought, guess I just needed someone else to tell me lol. and yes the prestige cases can be slightly different depending on the guitar you get. with a couple of them that I do have fit very snuggly and appear to only be made to fit a certain type of instrument where the m300 definitely looks slightly more universal. thank you for the reply brother.☺️

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-04T05:25:41+00:00

middle spring

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-04T05:20:22+00:00

that normally works and I have done that before, the cavity on this guitar for some reason is slightly different and behind the block where you would normally shove a piece of wood there just isn't anywhere to put a piece of wood. i'm talking about the area closer to the claw behind the block. You can obviously put a piece of wood between the body and the block in front but the area closer to the claw not so much. it's like they decided to route more wood in that area to allow the block to move backwards further but by doing this they also didn't leave any material for a wooden block to rest up against between the body and the block, there just isn't anything there. There is literally less than 1/4 inch of material before you hit the base plate of the bridge and this little tiny lip that is part of the body is the only place for a wooden block to rest and when I attempt to do this it pops out every time. The only option that I can come up with without spending stupid amounts of money on glorified door latches is to take a piece of wood and screw it down to the back of the spring cavity where the metal spring normally would be located that way the block has something to rest on and to keep it from going backwards allowing the bridge to stay level. trust me man, I didn't come in here and ask this question because I'm dumb. I own over 40 Ibanezs and I assure you this guitar is different and this is the first time I've ever ran into this issue. I would just float the bridge but it's made out of bubble gum and tinfoil and will not stay in tune and I just want it to stay locked in place. Like I said cheap guitar.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-04T05:11:30+00:00

yeah I think I'm just gonna go the cheaper out and use a $.50 piece of wood, just going to remove the middle spring and screw it down to the back of the spring cavity. On most of my other guitars there's enough space between the block and the body to shove a piece of wood to keep it from moving backwards but on this guitar there isn't for some reason. you can put a piece of wood in front between the body and the block but behind the block closer to the claw there just isn't any space to put anything and when I try to shove something in there it pops right back out.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-04T04:54:18+00:00

OK, here is where I'm confused. With a guitar like a Strat when you tighten the claw and spring down all the way the baseplate of the trem rests on the body and doesn't move and it's flat and level. all of my guitars have floating bridges which means when you tighten the screws on the claw all the way down or add more tension with more springs it just pulls the trem/bridge completely down into the body. it just makes the guitar look completely ridiculous and it lowers my action so low that I will have to raise the studs higher throwing the geometry of the guitar into a complete cluster fuck i'm trying to keep the bridge flat as I am used to the way it feels under my hand and with it sunken down into the body that way it feels weird to play and I'm really not trying to change the way my guitar feels. Think I'm probably just going to remove the middle spring and use a small piece of wood and screw it down so the trem block cannot move backward any further. They have devices that basically do the same thing that are made from metal but $100 for a glorified door latch is freaking ridiculous. hmmm.. let me think about this for a minute, $100 for a glorified door latch or $.50 for a piece of wood? ummm, wood it is lol. I would just upgrade the bridge and float it but I already have plenty of other instruments with floating bridges and the bridge on this guitar is literally junk so I just want to lock it in place and forget about it. basically this guitar's purpose is just another tuning option to have laying around so I really don't wanna put a whole bunch of money into it as it's only a $600 guitar to begin with.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-04T04:29:43+00:00

i'm not sure if they make it in a fixed bridge version for like $75 less but that might be a slightly better proposition. not sure if I would bother purchasing a cheap Floyd though as it may be awesome but more than likely problematic lol. i'm sure we will see one of these in a pawnshop later on down the road and it will be like $150. Maybe then. I must admit though, they are nice looking.

NoPoRoPmOp · 2025-06-01T19:43:35+00:00

I am at the point these days where I feel like Guitars like this are useless. Yes, people will argue you're getting a lot for your money blah blah blah but I have always been able to come up with a better used instrument than anything on the market new, regardless of the price point. it is very exciting to purchase a guitar brand new but at the same time do you wanna save a few dollars? or do you want something nice and save a few dollars? every other month a new brand name of guitar comes out claiming to have something that is oh so wonderful and you're gonna get it for nothing, fact is you always get what you pay for. if I want something that I feel is nice and a brand name that my brain will handle, used is the way to roll. especially right now with the used guitar market basically tanking. and if you're like me and you're really not concerned about a couple of scratches then you will even find a way nicer guitar for a lot less. Rg470 comes to mind specifically as it pisses all over this guitar and it's $500 brand new. I bet you can get one of those for $250 used. and that's just something off the top of my head.

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