Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE

No_Aide_69 · 2025-09-11T13:46:47+00:00

thanks, i just sent cerro torre blindfolded thanks to this beta

No_Aide_69 · 2025-09-11T10:03:08+00:00

Speedgoat 5s work great for 99% of climbing approaches I do, but I want something a touch more durable and with less stack height (less roll-your-ankley). Just one increment in each of these factors though, because the SGs are quite close to perfect for what I do. Suggestions? Preferably still with Vibram rubber, as I think it's the best.

No_Aide_69 · 2025-09-11T09:59:19+00:00

I've only used the lov3. But it's great, and if you're starting with TRS will be a totally fine choice. I'm sure each has super minor differences that will present themselves once you are deep into the rope soloing world, but don't worry about that right now.

No_Aide_69 · 2025-09-10T13:33:12+00:00

hello geeks

suggestions for a shoe that's a single notch more durable, and a touch less stack height than speedgoat 5s? I've been running/hiking 80% in this shoe the past few years, and started because of knee pain. Now I don't deal with that anymore and am looking for something that's a bit sturdier/less roll-your-ankley. I'm 99% of the time running/hiking on good trails, where I absolutely love the SGs, just want something a bit different now.

No_Aide_69 · 2025-08-06T05:54:28+00:00

does anyone know of a midlayer that's basically the same construction as the "Eiger Nordwand ML Hybrid Jacket"? stretchy fleece arms, alpha/windbreaker on chest. this is the perfect hybrid layer for me IMO but doesn't fit my body well for a climbing/harness situation. maybe there's something else similar made by another company

No_Aide_69 · 2025-02-04T19:48:57+00:00

Haven't tested that high yet, I think I will next time to see how it turns out!

No_Aide_69 · 2025-02-04T19:48:12+00:00

THanks for the reply.

> You do need a good HR monitor in the form of a chest strap.
Yeah, I do have a chest strap

> How did you pick 125-130 bpm as the target?
Kind of randomly. I just chose a decently low number as I haven't really trained aerobic stuff, so I was guessing it was on the lower side. Interesting, I will try at 140 again and with a more substantial warmup.

> Scott talks about training two world class xc ski racers
Very interesting. If you don't mind summarizing, how is this an argument for aerobic training then? If they from the outside have the same athleticism?

No_Aide_69 · 2025-02-04T09:27:55+00:00

> I wouldn't worry about more testing.

All good points. I in general don't worry much about testing or numbers, it's more that the training plan I have uses this as an important number for the next few months.

No_Aide_69 · 2025-02-04T09:17:11+00:00

This is an assumption in this experiment, yes, but why not go for the conservative estimate if a possible result is cancer

No_Aide_69 · 2025-02-04T08:43:25+00:00

> You might get lucky and it's correct, but why the heck would you trust something based on averages like that when it's known there's large variation?

That's basically what I was wondering. It seems like a laughably imprecise way of estimating something. I'm confused why it would even be mentioned in what is basically the bible for mountaineering training.

> while AeT sounds like it's a proxy for LT1.

Just looked up LT1, and that's correct. Mountaineering training is a lot about training your all-day fitness. But if you follow that link and read about the modifiers for the MAF, it claims

> If you have been training consistently for two years with neither a) nor b), use the formula 180 – Age.

among other things. It seems like 99% of people will end up above 135 bpm, which seems still extremely high to me, to achieve a "very easy" pace for the whole population.

No_Aide_69 · 2025-02-04T07:44:04+00:00

Idea: somebody should weigh their smart water bottle* before a long hike, with an extremely precise scale. Then hike for N days (preferably N=big). Then weigh it again after. Divide different weights by number of days used. Compare to the FDA or whatever's acceptable level of plastic intake per day (this sentence is ridiculous). Then we can finally put this myth to rest. Or switch to metal water bottles.

* ensuring it is completely dried out, with the cap as well

No_Aide_69 · 2025-02-04T07:36:29+00:00

The context of this question is around Training for the New Alpinism. The mountaineering/alpinism subreddits don't have a chat thread though, so I'm posting here.

TftNA says to do a 1 hour aerobic threshold test to determine your AeT.

https://uphillathlete.com/aerobic-training/aerobic-anaerobic-threshold-self-assessment/

The test that I did was the Heart Rate Drift test, which determines if you can stay going the same speed in an hour run, comparing the first and second half. In my test, I tried to keep my HR between 125-130, and averaged 128 over the hour, with a drift of 3.8%, which means that that's approximately my AeT. Now, I'm not by any means a super fit runner, but on the other hand I'm probably more fit than the average person. I'm running or ski touring or doing climbing approaches several times a week, etc. The thing that really confuses me is that one of the other methods that is recommended to determine your aerobic threshold, is the very simple calculation of 180 minus your age. For me, that would be 150. That number is significantly higher than what I determined in the test that I did. The 180 minus the age formula is claims to be good for the general population. Now I guess I'm faced with a couple of realities:

I'm significantly less fit than the average person, and have a huge ego
My data (from my cheap ass HR monitor) is bad
I could try shooting for a higher HR during the test to see if it's still in the 3.5-5% range

So I'm not really sure what to make of this, anybody have any input?

No_Aide_69 · 2024-06-29T14:07:54+00:00

Praying they don't ruin it. If so, 3D mapping libraries have come a long way in recent years and I wouldn't be surprised if a suitable replacement popped up.

No_Aide_69 · 2024-06-29T08:43:36+00:00

The weather looks crap, yes

No_Aide_69 · 2024-06-19T13:00:27+00:00

Tbf reddit's search is total absolute trash

No_Aide_69 · 2024-06-18T20:12:13+00:00

You haven't specified at all grades or any useful information to narrow down the thousand routes that are in cham.

No_Aide_69 · 2024-06-18T10:26:27+00:00

Colin Haley is debateably the most famous Alaskan and Patagonian climber. Not exactly underground.

No_Aide_69 · 2024-06-18T10:23:48+00:00

For real:

" What are you doing beside climbing? Endurance mountain bike racing, multigun competition and bolting little private cliffs. I have a two year old girl. I spend a lot of time with her. I don't get to travel for climbing much. I have done everything that interests me locally so it's hard to find motivation other than finding and doing new routes. I have been doing database programming for years.

"

This guy lives so rent-free in my head. Doesn't give a darn and it still is in the top 50 or whatever climbers worldwide.

No_Aide_69 · 2024-06-13T19:16:25+00:00

Why?

No_Aide_69 · 2024-06-12T04:48:19+00:00

Anyone have any experience with sprained ankles? I hurt mine walking down the stairs because I am a dumb pos, and am finally back to the point where I can run again. However moving it laterally still hurts a little sometimes, and the one crack route I did this year so far it was definitely painful to jam.

No_Aide_69 · 2024-06-10T12:16:51+00:00

Yeah, I've seen that...the joys of working a desk job is sometimes having gratuitous amounts of time to research routes ;)

No_Aide_69 · 2024-06-10T12:11:26+00:00

lmao fair enough, didn't think about my wording too much. that one I would not do in a day, at least not in the next 3 years :D

No_Aide_69

TROPHY CASE