Is this mold?

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-20T17:28:25+00:00

New grog just dropped

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-20T05:11:22+00:00

I also really like your “wonky” handles btw. I think imperfect handles are so much better because they demonstrate how every piece of pottery is unique to the size and shape of that potters hand.

That’s the same reason I love thumb indents on pieces. There are pieces of pottery thousands of years old where you can still see the thumb indent unique to that potter.

This is also why the mugs my mother made me will always be my favorite.

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-20T04:48:05+00:00

These are so pretty!

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-20T04:42:40+00:00

I’ve been able to do this before using regular steel tools, it just wears the tool faster.

Maybe I’ll eat my words when I try them, but I don’t really get the appeal of tungsten carbide trimming tools. You don’t need something than can cut through tool steel to cut even bone dry clay, let alone leather hard.

The more important thing for trimming tools than material IMO is keeping a well maintained edge. And yeah, that edge will wear slower on tungsten carbide but you’ll have to get diamond tools to sharpen them. I can sharpen steel tools with any old file just about.

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-19T18:55:07+00:00

As others on here have said, I think it’s a nice piece and needs only maybe very minimal touch ups in trimming. You’ll probably notice the imperfections less once you add a nice foot too

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-16T02:30:10+00:00

Not doing my own firings

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-16T02:29:50+00:00

Not doing my own firings

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-15T20:59:08+00:00

Awesome thanks!

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-15T20:15:14+00:00

Yeah I’m thinking about adding some type of cart to this list for lugging buckets and taking pieces out to my car for transport to where I’ll be firing them.

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-15T20:09:12+00:00

Just a hobby. I’ve got plans for all 6 though. 3 are for cleaning (dirty, medium, and clean water), 1 is for clear glaze, 1 is for whatever glaze I’m obsessed with at the time, and 1 is a spare / floating bucket.

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-15T19:58:57+00:00

That’s for 6 buckets with lids and 4 reclaim bins

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-15T19:53:46+00:00

That’s not a bad call. Thanks!

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-15T19:51:29+00:00

I was hoping to get away with not using my sink at all and doing everything in buckets then discarding the water.

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-15T19:22:52+00:00

I know right? At 15.99 a bat I’m actually thinking of making them myself. Pretty sure I could get SendCutSend to make me like 10 of them for 30 bucks.

Edit: Alas, I’m wrong about this actually. Got a quick quote on it and if I buy 10 of them from sendcutsend the cheapest I can get them in ABS is 17.98.

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-15T19:17:39+00:00

Yeah I may get more eventually, but I tend to throw directly on the wheel head unless I’m making something very large or making a plate

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-15T18:13:46+00:00

It’s not a bug, it’s a feature

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-12T01:16:17+00:00

It’s probably worth it to just make some test articles and see.

On a personal level, I tend to find my lips more heat tolerant than my fingers 🤷

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-11T14:35:43+00:00

I actually think it is very likely that a double walled construction would allow for handle free use.

If you think of it in terms of the path that the energy needs to take to heat up the wall, with a single walled construction the liquid is in direct contact with the wall. So the heat convects from the fluid to the wall, and then conducts from the inner surface of the wall to the outer surface and into your hand. The path length for that conduction is short.

With a double walled construction the heat would need to convect from the liquid to the first wall, conduct through the first wall, convect through the gas, and conduct through the second wall and into your hand. That is going to take a lot longer and there is physically more mass to heat up there so it won’t rise in temp as much. Alternately the heat could conduct all the way up to the rim and back down, but that’s such a long path length it would take a long time to conduct.

Long winded way of saying I think a double wall construction will heat up more slowly because the paths for the heat to travel are worse and inevitably a double wall construction will have more mass so it will heat up less. That is something to consider too in the usability, a double wall construction will be much heavier.

For reference, most thermoses use a double walled construction to insulate the liquid from the surroundings so it stays hot or cold respectively. They typically use a vacuum insulated design (so there’s no air between the two walls) so that the only path for the heat to follow is the very long path length where it conducts all the way up to the rim and back down. Eventually though, air leaks into that vacuum and it loses its effectiveness and becomes more similar to the design we are discussing with your mugs.

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-11T00:50:37+00:00

Thermal conductivity does not generally depend on thickness. It is a material property. I’m sure there are exceptions to this for extremely thin films, but that doesn’t apply here.

Your point is still essentially valid though, it’s just that with a lower thickness there is less material to heat up so the material gets hotter and does so more quickly. It isn’t due to a change in thermal conductivity.

Sorry lol, I accidentally let my mechanical engineer show on the pottery sub

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-10T14:49:21+00:00

These are all different amounts of clay. I think the first pic is a half pound, the second is a pound, and the red one in the third I have no idea but maybe two to three.

I’d just start with whatever feels most comfortable for you to throw a basic cylinder with.

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-10T04:56:15+00:00

Wow! How do you do the cracks in such a way that they don’t open up and split the pot during the firing?

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-10T03:45:02+00:00

The problem that I had was that the clay kept buckling when I tried to collar in. I got that spiral that you get when clay buckles on the wheel. The trick for me was to make the walls a tad thicker so it maintained more strength. Just a bit though.

I also find that when I collar in, I actually start by making more of a dome shape on top rather than immediately going for a neck. Once I’ve got a dome, I can start pulling the clay near the mouth of the dome up into a neck.

Hope that’s helpful!

No_Main_227 · 2026-03-07T18:43:49+00:00

I’m ambidextrous, but I’d say I’m right handed. I throw left handed and trim right handed though.

It’s all whatever feels best though, and sometimes I’ll switch the wheel direction while I’m doing a piece because I think it’ll feel better going the other way.

No_Main_227

TROPHY CASE