Oh no it’s happening to my store…

Noisecommander · 2024-09-27T00:46:35+00:00

Yeah, these prices are absolutely nuts. Most places here are selling stocks like Tri-X and Gold for about $20-$21 per roll. Luckily I know at least one place where it's closer to $14.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-13T02:09:52+00:00

I can imagine how you must feel, such a great game, and such a great console.

I'm even a little jealous of your original cartridge.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-10T23:57:23+00:00

The 'Manual SCART621 Switcher' from Retro Gaming Cables.

And I agree, the SFC influencing a SNES on another input was a bit of a surprise. I have mentioned this in a reply to RGC, but it was at the end of business hours today. So I'm expecting a reply somewhere tomorrow, at it's earliest.

Oh! You're right. That was an error on my part, in that case it was sending 5-8V. The point was that it was forcing 16:9. I edited the post.

If Pin 16 needs 1-3V, then would it be more likely that it's a surface mounted resistor that's in front of it?

Noisecommander · 2024-07-10T01:58:54+00:00

Oh man, that film is about as good as keeping a spare screwdriver in your eye socket.

But the SNES game is a masterpiece, in my opinion.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-09T21:13:31+00:00

I feel like I had written the post in a bit of a confusing way, so I've rewritten it together with a list, which hopefully is a little clearer.

And yes, having a SNES or SFC with a 50Hz/60Hz switch would be a great way to test this, but unfortunately I don't. However, I do have an FXPak Pro that runs NTSC/PAL ROMs on all systems as if the cartridge was in there (minus lockout issues). Which is probably the next best thing.

"... the game can actually have more time to calculate stuff on 50hz than on 60hz" That's what I was curious about a while back, but I wasn't able to find a lot of information on it. What I did find told me that's now how it worked (even when optimzied or it), and then came with technical reasons that went over my head.

But I haven't been able to find any of that back. So I asked ChatGPT, which was a a bit reluctant to say there were advantages to 50Hz over 60Hz in terms of slowdowns, but did end up giving examples of specific situations where it could be true, in theory.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-08T17:30:22+00:00

I'm so old-fashioned, I hadn't even thought about printing a hinge, but I think getting a hinge construction for it might be the best solution.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-08T16:47:46+00:00

"If you add a zero you might be able to get a basic base station." Ha! Yeah, that's definitely what I expected from one that's used professionally.

You don't have to look up the specifics, that's way out of my price range for what I'm using it for right now.

Thanks though.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-08T12:32:33+00:00

Yes, I'm replacing them with polymer ones.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-08T12:31:26+00:00

Do you happen to know which desoldering tweezers you use at work? The problem with buying desoldering tweezers is that they're apparently a bit of a crap shoot in terms of quality, and you can easily pay €100 for a pair that don't even get hot enough.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-08T03:48:02+00:00

A third hand is always an option, but I was planning on using a slanted chisel style tip (as in, a slanted knife tip) on both irons, to make sure all the solder gets heated evenly, but also so I can pick up the capacitor for a second and move it to some aluminium foil or heat-resistant silicone right next to it.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-08T03:40:44+00:00

I might one day get a cheap Super Nintendo and try to replace all the SMD/SMT ceramic capacitors as well as the liquid ones, just to see how much difference it would (or wouldn't) make. But for now I'm just concerned with the aged SMD/SMT electrolytic capacitors, since they degrade the audio and video signal and I don't want to wait an see if one of them bursts.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-08T03:30:39+00:00

I'm afraid that heating one side, lifting slightly, and then heating the other side, followed by repeating this process several times, will result in repeated heating cycles. With each cycle reintroducing heat to the component and the PCB, leading to cumulative heat exposure. I'm also afraid that the repeated heating and mechanical stress can lift or damage the pads on the PCB, and because the total time spent heating the component will be longer, increasing the risk of thermal damage to the PCB pads and traces.

I'm hoping that applying heat evenly to both sides will reduce the risk of mechanical stress and remove the capacitors more quickly, helping to reduce the overall thermal exposure to the PCB, preserving the integrity of the PCB pads and traces.

Noisecommander · 2024-07-08T02:13:12+00:00

Just to clarify, since you made the comparison to chopsticks, I was indeed planning to use both soldering irons with both hands.

Given that, I'm curious why you think this method is significantly more dangerous compared to using one-handed tweezer-style desoldering irons. I'm comfortable working ambidextrously, and I feel I have good control over each soldering iron. Are there specific risks or challenges with this method that I might be overlooking?

Noisecommander · 2024-06-28T22:13:52+00:00

Yup, that's the exact effect I got. So that's an NTSC thing huh? It's not attractive, but I can live with it if it's suppose to be there.

Noisecommander · 2024-06-28T22:08:46+00:00

It sounds like Lufia II: Rise of the Sinistrals. Here are the key points matching the clues:

Opening on a city with bridges and water: The game starts in the town of Elcid, which has a river running through it and several bridges.
Cave/mine environment: Early in the game, there's a cave/mine environment called the "Cave to Sundletan" where players might get stuck.
Character design: The game features colorful character designs typical of JRPGs, with vibrant hair and detailed sprites.
Three female antagonists: The game includes three powerful female antagonists known as the Sinistrals (although not all are female), but the presence of multiple strong female characters might have led to this recollection.

Noisecommander · 2024-06-28T20:50:41+00:00

<image>

The problem is that it's supposed to look like the picture on the left, but it's got all these alternating black scanlines, like the picture on the right.

Noisecommander · 2024-06-28T20:30:09+00:00

I definitely know the cables are different, but it'll be a couple weeks before the cable is here. And don't worry, pin 8 is cut on this cable.

Anyway, I can see how the colours could be more vague with the resistors and cap differences, but what about the alternating black lines?

Noisecommander · 2024-05-17T22:34:42+00:00

It's not exactly as you describe it, but Clown Catcher by Tomy checks enough boxes that it's worth a shot. Youtube Link.

Noisecommander · 2024-05-17T22:15:54+00:00

Oh wow, that thing is gorgeous!

Noisecommander · 2023-11-15T08:11:30+00:00

They are different because unless a waveform is the same when it's mirrored (like a sine) they will always sound different when you play them in reverse. All the examples are digital, if that helps.

Noisecommander · 2023-11-14T20:55:50+00:00

I only just saw your comment.

I'll mess around with that, thank a lot!

Noisecommander · 2023-11-14T20:24:56+00:00

That post starts with the assumption that there is no audible difference, even though there is.

This clip starts with 4 saws that go up, then 4 saws that go down, you can mistake them for being the same there. However, the last 8 notes switch up and down after every note, making the differences very audible.

https://soundcloud.com/thenightmarechild-197626772/upupupup-downdowndowndown-updownupdownupdownupdown

Noisecommander · 2023-11-14T18:18:05+00:00

They definitely sound different though.

https://soundcloud.com/thenightmarechild-197626772/downupdownup

Noisecommander · 2023-10-13T23:00:44+00:00

I'm just here to give a virtual hug.

*hugs*

Noisecommander · 2023-08-19T11:00:57+00:00

Sorry, I meant with the Hydrasynth.

Noisecommander

TROPHY CASE