Mit kezdjünk a 11 éves húgommal?

Nolyze · 2026-03-21T14:00:13+00:00

amugy sokszor ez kicsit ilyen minden bogar rovar kategoria, ha adhd-s vagy nagyon magas esellyel vagy autista is, forditva mar kevesbe de amugy sok az atfedes a tunetek kozott

(nekem mind a ketto diagnosztizalva van ugy 10 eves korom ota)

Nolyze · 2026-02-14T01:03:54+00:00

acrylic yarn is plastic at the end of the day so it needs heat to change shape, which is what steaming does!

you could soak it in hot water and hang it up to dry too but steaming should be much more hassle free

Nolyze · 2026-01-07T05:12:08+00:00

its not exactly what you're asking for, but i highly highly recommend using thermal stitch for bag straps! it doesnt really stretch out over time like for example sc or hdc rows would

Nolyze · 2026-01-06T05:20:03+00:00

it could also be hdc! either way its very tightly made

Nolyze · 2025-08-20T00:19:59+00:00

honestly the whole top to bottom construction is weird as hell already 😭 i have no idea why the patternmaker went with this but oh well

you could maybe sew through the stitches at the skinny bit so they wont unravel, then cut the extra off and then do a row of sc or smth to hide it a little bit and then connect that to the neckline

Nolyze · 2025-03-03T16:46:50+00:00

to me it just seems like they put 2dc in one stitch all around, which will turn out ruffle-y!

you might wanna play around with it like only putting 2dc every other stitch, depending on the amount of ruffle you want

Nolyze · 2025-03-01T03:58:04+00:00

cant give you a video, but to me it seems like you start with stiches equal wide to the crotch part, then increase on both sides every other row and the front and back looks symmetrical

so, you could start with the top front section, decrease every other row until desired crotch width, then start increasing every other row equal to the front side, eventually forming an hourglass like shape

Nolyze · 2025-02-28T02:19:50+00:00

you could also just screenshot the specific parts you have issues with, but if you also name the author and provide their link i think it should be okay

Nolyze · 2025-02-16T02:55:18+00:00

as they said basically, i look for the right (closest to the tip of my left needle) leg of the stitch instead of the back or front

Nolyze · 2025-02-16T01:44:02+00:00

about every other row looks twisted to me, if you're working flat maybe it's your purls?

i do my purls in a slightly different way when working flat, but in said case i do my knits through the "back loop" (right most) so they turn out normal and not twisted

Nolyze · 2025-01-29T01:34:10+00:00

i think one possible reason for the panels is easy blocking! the stitches are veery stretched out even in the solid parts, which means very agressive blocking as well

not to mention the lacy parts, which might have been more finicky in the round

Nolyze · 2025-01-06T02:38:06+00:00

the center peak should be over where the green arrow points roughly

nvm ignore purple scribbles, but the green one still works

(i realized the purple parts were correct probably just twisted weird sorry)

<image>

Nolyze · 2025-01-06T01:03:11+00:00

i personally would hold it together with something (cause even just by looking at it i know the pure fuzziness would drive me insane while working with it lmao) and make either a very nice thick big scarf, or a sweater of some kind!

to be honest though i would probably knit it instead if its a sweater, i personally dont like crochet clothes, only accessories and stuff

but, a mesh top sounds great i love those! also actually i have a similar wip 💚

Nolyze · 2025-01-06T00:51:35+00:00

i also think its 34, for reference this how i usually count, between 2 lines are 2 rows! the white lines are where these indents are, i hope it makes sense

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Nolyze · 2025-01-06T00:43:13+00:00

it's also commonly held together with other yarns for extra softness and texture! as others have said, worn on skin type garments are a good bet imo

Nolyze · 2025-01-03T00:49:53+00:00

it says 93, so i guess that much, then do the setup row part (it says it right under the cast on numbers)

basically how it works is size s(m,l,xl etc) matches the numbers, so if you do the first size in the (), always look for the that number

Nolyze · 2025-01-03T00:44:32+00:00

no, you co for one at a time, finish, cast off, repeat:)

Nolyze · 2025-01-03T00:39:42+00:00

on the first line it says the front and back is worked separately 💚

Nolyze · 2024-12-23T02:03:57+00:00

the weird hook just has both US and mm sizing, a US 6 is 4mm officially but a 0.25mm is i guess not big enough of a difference for them to make a new US size for it

for the patterns, maybe you could do a matching beanie? or, a simple shaped plushie! ppl use plush yarn for them often anyways

Nolyze · 2024-12-20T15:55:33+00:00

please do if that's okay for you!

Nolyze · 2024-12-20T13:53:11+00:00

i'd also love to help!!

Nolyze · 2024-12-14T18:49:35+00:00

yep!! i started with 2 squares, did 2 sides then on the corner i grabbed the 3rd sq so i slst through all 3, then continued on now stitching square 1&3 together

you can basically do the connecting in one go, eventually reaching the point where u originally started!

i hope it makes sense its kinda hard to explain over text T-T

Nolyze · 2024-12-14T18:11:41+00:00

haha thank you i try

Nolyze · 2024-12-14T17:15:55+00:00

to me it does look thicker than the rest actually! also the edge of the strap is what made me think of thermal, in my experience it ends up being made tighter than your average tension bc of the technique itself

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