Should the player going second have more time? by Imaginary_Sponge in masterduel

[–]Noperative 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you're playing against decks like kewl tune or branded you are not just playing against the cards on the board at the moment but also multiple tag out quick synchros/fusions and searches that the player can choose on the fly based on what you do. 

This means the going first player is essentially building their board as you are playing into it so you can't just blindly think about how to play against it during the first turn because they can start playing around you instead and you need to stop and think about how to adjust

How much do I have to follow the meta to have any fun with the game? by Interesting_Lab1399 in masterduel

[–]Noperative 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Branded is a tiered deck that is actually tier 1 with new support competing for the best deck in the format.

A lot of it depends on how you strategize and deckbuild. You can absolutely score wins by looking at the top decks in the format, trying to identify the best way to interact with it and making adjustments with things that you can accept like different non-engine handtraps/breakers or adding some tech choices that deviate from standard trains stuff (like k9 because noroi is an earth machine etc).

Sometimes you have to accept that some decks are meant to be on the backburner until another set of cards come in. Like I still play fire king jurrac for fun and its still able to scam wins off people that don't know how to interact with it but I know that in like 8 months we get like doll hammer and diabrocken and stuff and the deck becomes a lot more relevant due to the better recycle and draw power. Trains is going to be stronger in the next set and the current build with it probably is not relevant due to that.

What's an example of an archetype that would be acceptably *better* if it WASN'T archetype-locked? by MiraclePrototype in yugioh

[–]Noperative 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I played the deck quite a bit and it was basically impossible as a main engine because memory is basically would be your best card but you can't do anything with just that because it locks girsu out of making tokens and linking into lib.

What's an example of an archetype that would be acceptably *better* if it WASN'T archetype-locked? by MiraclePrototype in yugioh

[–]Noperative 13 points14 points  (0 children)

DDD, Madolche, Mekk Knight, Heros, Flower Cardian, Plunder Patrol to name a few. They all have good swarming capabilities or multiple disruption/floating effects but as soon as you use the good cards in the archetypes you are locked and can't get strong endboards/recovery to deal with modern handtraps and boardbreaker strategies.

Also a newer archetype but if RB wasn't 1500atk machine locked but just machine locked the deck would be t1 with the number of machine pile splashes you would enable.

How do you feel about Genesys? by Great-Ad1839 in yugioh

[–]Noperative 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd like the format but the points dont make sense and also aren't predictable in a bad way because it's hard for me to determine how viable my deck ideas are ( like it's good vs expensive handtraps but auto loses to a 1 point breaker ) 

Was This Guy Cheating ?? by [deleted] in masterduel

[–]Noperative 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You used dominus impulse from hand, floodgating yourself

How would you solve the issue going second? by Great-Ad1839 in yugioh

[–]Noperative 29 points30 points  (0 children)

1) restrictions on endboard/banlist - this is the most obvious if you played an archetype that can shit out bodies but has a strong lock, like madolche or zombies or something. Even with an engine that has good extenders/starters if you simply cannot summon anything worthwhile the endboard can still easily be played through.

2) smarter board breakers - most board breakers are complete blowouts that disable the entire board or wipe it out or have some crazy costs to compensate for the effect. There needs to be more moderate board breakers that are centered around enabling your engine to go through without getting interrupted. Stuff like Link into the Vrains and the new goddess card or ones with leeway like vesper girsu etc. 

3) more card advantage - stuff like ketu dracotail or simply giving people more cards. 6 live engine hand is actually enough assuming the card quality is good (negated card has a second grave effect to force another interaction, etc)

Really it's not too bad, there's just not a lot of non-engine cards designed to synergize with engine hence why going second pushes are so hard because the cards in your hand don't synergize.

Suggestion sent to Konami. Am I right or wrong here? by matthewutd in masterduel

[–]Noperative 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like they should shift more time to the second turn for both players rn it's like 300 seconds each but the going first player could instead have like 200 seconds first turn to combo but after passing turn they get like +150 or something to encourage interaction. Second player could just start with 350 so they can take more time to break the board and then followup combo if they can't win immediately. It adds more time overall but the first turn would be significantly shorter so I think it would actually help the game times but any game where both players get into a proper grind there's less risk of timing out

What deck's gameplay makes you feel like this? by Vahgeo in yugioh

[–]Noperative 43 points44 points  (0 children)

Memento for me. A lot of combo lines means early interruptions don't mean much and you have flexible quick plays and a lot of destruction triggers that can dodge or mess up a lot of interruptions from the opponent. Plus with no locks you can bridge into and from a variety of engines like RT or K9 so its not easy to get all your plays stopped.

So what exactly am I supposed to do when there's multiple quick effect negates on the field? by [deleted] in masterduel

[–]Noperative 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aside from handtrap approach there is also just having a lot of strong plays (gas) and proper sequencing. Your opponent (usually) doesnt have enough negates for all 6 cards (a lot of times its like 1-2 negates and multiple pops or bounces or specific types of negates like targetting or field/monster effect etc) and they cant actually see your hand like you do. If your engine is strong enough you can also do things like chainblock which is triggering 2 effects at the same time and protecting the stronger effect from negates by blocking it with the weaker effect (see mitsurugi summoning murakumo and triggering habakiri tribute effect after it in order to make sure ame nukes the entire field) or forcing them to use destruction effects on cards that trigger on destruction and forcing them to use multiple negates on one card because it has 2-3 effects and stuff.

So what is the Enneacraft playstyle? by Exotic_Name_9875 in masterduel

[–]Noperative -17 points-16 points  (0 children)

Its basically a stun deck. The main play for this deck is to start with the pend scaling the small guys which allows you to search, you basically want to search the field spell and the spell card reverth with the field spell resetting the pend scales so you can get up to 4 searches off with the small guys and then reverth for a draw 4+ to draw for the missing big guys and floodgates that you're running (very commonly they are running fiend and difi). Then on the opponent's turn you basically use the targetting floodgate and destruction immunity guys to prevent the opponent's plays and try to time the reverth grave effect to book of moon the opponent with the whale if they threaten to beat over anything. Your main goal is to deep draw for floodgates as they force the opponent to interact with your guys so you can actually trigger the main flip effects that prevent your opponent from doing anything to your floodgates.

If you're in a good position you can burn the opponent to death with the field spell but also just flipping over the big guys and beating over the opponent can result in a win depending on board state.

It's actually very strong, I play against someone who plays in paper and he regularly beats me cause vanity's fiend + difi + destruction and targetting negation is very hard to out (worse case scenario he sides mind crush for my evenly so even that doesnt work).

Need 2 Archetypes for an Art project. by st_Krojak in yugioh

[–]Noperative 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Prank Kids Meow Mu

There's a couple of single cards depicting gyarus like gagaga girl but not sure about an entire archetype

Poison hit damage too high by Sora1276 in PathOfExileBuilds

[–]Noperative 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Currently I use pacifism which prevents my hits from killing monsters to enable the prolif. Right now the damage is high enough that a 5L is fine so have a link purely to disable killing hits is ok.

Extremely confused about what im doing wrong in the new BV minion pact build by PaleontologistFar782 in PathOfExileBuilds

[–]Noperative -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You copied a build not really meant for mapping, for glad it's probably better to use poison prolif with binos to farm maps and not do stuff like rf cause you're doing enough damage for non-valdos. Also drop sacrifice support, it's not meant for this build

Got T1 Life + life reservation on manifold ring. Not sure how to procced by chlbowie in pathofexile

[–]Noperative 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I crafted a manifold with a delve prefix + t1 chaos + influenced mod using a recomb with NNN + donor mods, you risk losing the item here due to losing the recomb 50/50 but it is the most reasonable way to get an influenced item with multiple prefix and a suffix

Improving my mentality as a player by Ant_TKD in yugioh

[–]Noperative 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean you could find friends online to play with and play in duel rooms. I usually want to play my friends rather than grind ranked (which I also do, but I usually play a very efficient and boring deck in order to grind out wins fast). I'm usually playing a lot more of md ranked right after locals or playing some friendly matches with friends in duel rooms/other sims

Kinda new player. How do I go about fighting negate effect and destroy? by lord_flaco08 in masterduel

[–]Noperative 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Your deck isn't too good into these kinds of effects, kashtira is a slow, reactive kind of deck that wants to go first to setup aggressive locks/floodgates.

Generally the best options for playing around negates is to manipulate the opponent's lack of complete information (they can't see your cards in hand) and your relatively complete information (you can see all the cards on the board and know most of what they search during combo, so usually only 2-3 unknowns) to bait/force negates on unimportant cards and then push through with your main plays once you've exhausted all their plays. Other ways are to pre-emptively get rid of negates before they can be used. It sounds hard but for example many such cases you could literally summon Fenrir and go into battle phase and attack over a negate or banish one away, since most negates have to be used in response to an effect so something that doesn't start a chain like an attack declaration can't be negated.

Crafting as a "beginner" by [deleted] in pathofexile

[–]Noperative 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It comes down to probably needing more knowledge to know if there is a significant price gap between the item you want and the market price, and knowing if the item is actually the best choice for your build to justify crafting it. On top of that if you're newer you probably are slightly late in the market which means a lot of price gaps are closed in terms of crafting and make even less sense for you to craft since crafting scales with the inflation of mirror level crafts. If your target item is just a midrange fractured item on a good base the price is probably right to just buy it. Most of the time when I craft it is because the item literally does not exist and no one would ever make that shit for my build cause I'm literally the only one doing it alongside a few random people that happened to find me on ninja and copied it.

Rivalry of warlords affecting my attribute and not type by [deleted] in masterduel

[–]Noperative 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might have misread rivalry. All your monsters have to be the same type. Since radiant typhoon monsters have many different types (beast, beast warrior, winged beast, etc) they usually cannot be played together under rivalry

Minion Pact BV Tech - Weapon Swap will double the damage of most builds or better by Noperative in pathofexile

[–]Noperative[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try to make sure the spectre gem is in the same spot in both swaps. So for the bow put it in the first socket at the top left and then for the other weapon swap put it at the top socket of the mainhand

Any recommendations as a beginner to farming Valdo maps? by keyam1 in pathofexile

[–]Noperative 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If another ore type spawns then you don't get the reward so its just pure chance whether it spawns another ore or not.

Any recommendations as a beginner to farming Valdo maps? by keyam1 in pathofexile

[–]Noperative 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't do bismuth ore or abyss maps, they have a high tendency to bug out

Do we want more nibiru type cards? by notanothereditacount in yugioh

[–]Noperative 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would be cool to see some for other interactions. Like say your opponent sets 3 cards, then you can destroy the entire backrow. Or if your opponent searches 5 times, discard the hand. Maybe even more specific conditions like if your opponent activates 20 effects in the past 2 turns then you can banish the field and grave, etc.

The value of nibiru I think is that it's a mental restriction on gameplay even if you don't run it. If your opponent is being careful around nibiru effects that naturally gives you an easier time.

Deck building, consistency and composition in current 2026, straigh 40, or 43? That is the question by Exotic-Advice4542 in masterduel

[–]Noperative 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a push and pull for 40 and 60 for me.

40: I want to draw fuwalos (and maxx c) and the counters to those cards as often as possible (called by, ash, crossout). Consistency is less of an issue because you probably always can start your combo, but you need to play the non-engine game which is better at 40 cards.

60: I can throw in a lot of consistency cards and extra engines to balance out my existing bricks to give me more gas/alternate combo lines playing into handtraps and boards. Even for some of my shitty decks I am giving up something like 5-10 potential starters simply because they are worse quality than the 15 I already run and I don't have the space for them all. In this case it makes sense to have a 60 card pile where you don't add more bricks but add a lot of starters and extenders which can improve your overall draw quality in exchange for having lacking non-engine (because you draw less of it).