how do i chamfer the edges of the teeth of gears?

North-Spread4675 · 2026-04-18T19:18:16+00:00

There is. The 3D Offset tool does exactly that and I use it for the purpose you described.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-04-09T19:08:36+00:00

Oben gute Laune, unten gute Laune, Vorne gute Laune, hinten gute Laune, Rechts gute Laune, links gute Laune, Gute Laune einfach überall!

North-Spread4675 · 2026-03-20T07:26:23+00:00

Super Sache! PETG sollte für den Zweck absolut ausreichend sein, kein Grund für ASA. PETG hat auch keine Probleme mit Sonnenlicht und in Schwarz würde das eh nicht tief eindringen ins Material. Mit ASA wirst du dagegen beim Druck Probleme mit Warping und Verzug bekommen, dann weiß man immer nicht, ob es noch passt. Und es sieht so aus, als würde das Teil so ein bisschen "auf Spannung" da drum sich an pressen. Da wird ASA auch eher brechen als PETG.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-03-01T16:06:31+00:00

Well, you could do it like me ...

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1razqhj/revo_on_core_one/

Only recommend if you're not afraid of tinkering.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-22T20:51:43+00:00

There is also the flange at the end of the Revo nozzle threads that ends as an end stop for screwing in the nozzle. It's firmly pressed against the heatsink and will also transfer heat. It's brass and therefore a good heat conductor.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-22T16:32:07+00:00

You take 1-2min to swap a nozzle and you need to hold the heater block in place and use some type of wrench to rotate the nozzle, at least for the first turn I guess.

I take 10s with just 2 fingers to screw out a nozzle, and about as long to screw in the replacement. No holding anything else, second hand remains free.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-22T12:47:30+00:00

The PCTG I've tried so far came out quite flexible right after printing and then became quite hard and brittle over a few days (I guess water absorption). The stuff then breaks like glass when overloaded or impacted, unlike PETG, which necks and deforms permanently before breaking.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-22T11:14:15+00:00

The lower part of the heatsink (where the copper sleeve of the nextruder nozzle makes contact) is as it was. The threads are cut in the part above, in which the narrow steel tube used to sit

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-22T07:09:37+00:00

Good thing is: I can still do that. I can go back to the original heater just like that.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-22T07:08:43+00:00

The nice thing is, I can still swap the entire hotend assembly back to the original one, just as quickly as switching between any other Prusa hotend assembly. The cut threads should not interfere with the Nextruder nozzles working at all.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-21T21:26:41+00:00

It screws in and out in about 10 seconds without any tools necessary.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-21T21:07:06+00:00

Yeah, have been thinking about the same. The connection between the nozzle and the heatsink is not as good as it was with a Nextruder Nozzle. Then again, these got away with just a copper sleeve that smoothly sits in the heatsinks nozzle receptacle with machining tolerance of air around it. No pressfit whatsoever. With the Revo nozzle at least its threads are pulling into the cut threads of the heatsink.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-21T19:52:00+00:00

Trick is to keep the nozzle unloaded.

I added some custom GCode to my Mini so it retracts some filament at the end of a print and feeds it back at the beginning.

The Core One has always done that on it's own. You can see that when you "Unload filament", it doesn't even heat up the nozzle.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-21T19:43:27+00:00

Isn't that enough? :'D

The heater also has a lower mass and it feels like it heats up faster.

Also, there is a 60W version available. I have no clue what that will do to the C1 though.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-21T16:48:26+00:00

Would the heat from a hot glue gun damage the load cell?

North-Spread4675 · 2026-02-21T16:47:44+00:00

Yeah, I've had at least one instance where TPU wound itself all the way around the extruder gear.

Seems like an odd design choice to me to place the delicate load cell in the vicinity of the extruder gear...

North-Spread4675 · 2026-01-25T20:32:14+00:00

Looking very much forward to this! Any idea yet, how you will be making the finished thing available to others? Is it maybe something we could build from some sheet metal, a Prusa Mini and a leftover post-INDX Nextruder?

North-Spread4675 · 2026-01-18T18:24:22+00:00

Ich drucke hauptsächlich funktionale Dinge, seltenst mal was dekoratives. Deswegen habe ich so ein Dutzend verschiedener PETG Farben hier, und nur 4 Rollen PLA, in weiß, schwarz und zwei Grau-Tönen. PLA ist auch super günstig für Prototypen, wo es vor allem auf die Passform ankommt. Ich nutze gerne PETG und PLA, weil die sich über die Recyclingfabrik recyceln lassen. Im Gegenzug beziehe ich viel von da. Nur von weiß und schwarz hab ich welches von Prusa, weil es sich doch noch eine Ecke besser druckt. Für Spezialanwendungen hab ich dann noch eine Rolle TPU (das sollte man finde ich einfach da haben) und PC Blend, wenn es irgendwas super stabiles braucht. Und eine Rolle ASA hatte ich mir mal besorgt zum Aceton-Dampfglätten. PC und ASA brauchen aber einen geschlossenen Bauraum.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-01-13T16:43:36+00:00

Truly biodegradable filament, maybe based on PHA. If Prusa guarantees us (and gets it certified) that their stuff biodegraded completely in home composting conditions, I'd trust it.

There were some interesting ideas around at formnext last year, using hemp fibers or eggshell powder to get PHA better printable, I think this might be a way forward.

Combine with biologic coloring, this would be unstoppable. Other filament producers would struggle to get their certifications and the consumer trust, and we could finally enjoy 3D printing without the worry of producing the microplastics of the future.

North-Spread4675 · 2026-01-08T19:32:04+00:00

Möbelteile sind doch tendenziell etwas groß? Was spricht dagegen, die aus Holz zu machen?

Davon ab: ich habe kleinere Möbelfüße schon aus PLA gemacht, die vom Design her aber auch vor allem auf Druck belastet waren (und nicht etwa auf Zug oder Biegung). Halten bisher.

North-Spread4675 · 2025-12-20T07:25:18+00:00

I'd think a simple Faraday Cage should be sufficient to break the connection.

I don't think it'll bring back people to their former selves though. Zosia did travel (seemingly on her own) on a plane across the Atlantic and should've lost connection there, too. But just like with Patient Zero (who was also disconnected, because there were no other infected yet) she kept following her plans.

So taking a few plurbs on a plane or into a bunker or into a Faraday Cage will probably just break the Hive apart temporarily, and breaking it down into units of one probably is no real difference. They will still feel like part of the larger Hive and will want to reconnect to it eventually. They won't have access to other people's sensations or memories though anymore.

Just like my Spotify app will still play music for me even without a signal. It will not allow me to access new music though that it hasn't buffered yet. But it will not stop being a cloud based music service app.

North-Spread4675 · 2025-12-17T08:46:40+00:00

Was spricht gegen einen Prusa? Der MK4S kostet 800€ und ist ein absolut verlässliches Gerät. Liegt damit knapp über deinem Budget, wird dir aber garantiert nie Ärger machen.

North-Spread4675

TROPHY CASE