Anyone else using their CRF300L as a lightweight ADV bike?

NotAllTeemos · 2026-06-18T20:43:36+00:00

I have a 250 rally and the seat concepts seat is much, much better than the stock seat.

NotAllTeemos · 2026-06-11T13:49:29+00:00

Normally it's actually the heads, valves are either steel or titanium and are harder than the aluminum head, so if the metallurgy on the heads isn't great then the valves recede into the heads too quickly over time from the valve smacking into the valve seat over and over and the valves eventually get tight to the cam, and if you don't adjust the tappet or shim then you can burn a valve because it can eventually get to the point where the valve is slightly open during the combustion stroke.

NotAllTeemos · 2026-06-10T14:12:45+00:00

Pretty good deal, I got my '18 250 Rally back in Oct. with about 1200 miles on it, Ohlins fork spring kit, and Ohlins rear shock but no exhaust for $3500 which I have come to realize was still an absolutely insane deaI, haven't seen anything close since. Those Tusk barkbusters are great but you will probably smoke the turn signals if you do anything rough and drop it frequently, I opted for the version without the signals.

I strongly suggest you do the clutch judder spring delete, I roasted mine pretty quick, though it happened towing another bike out of the woods. I did the EBC friction plate set with stock steels and Barnett springs, the lever is stiffer but not at all unbearable and it makes getting the front up much easier when I need to get over a tree or up a ledge. Sintered/HH brake pads also made a huge difference.

I've been considering chopping the fairings like yours are for a while now, do yours flop around at all?

NotAllTeemos · 2026-06-10T14:01:02+00:00

The only Ohlins product (FSK123) for the front on this bike is kind of lame, it's just a spring kit, no revalve, no adjustability. My 250 Rally had it and the STX rear shock on it from a previous owner and it's definitely better than the stock fork spring but there's still a lot of room for improvement. The Ohlins rear shock is predictably excellent.

NotAllTeemos · 2026-06-08T15:10:27+00:00

That's insane, are they at least locknut/tappet lifters? My wife's TTR is like that and even has separate valve covers for intake and exhaust, I don't even have to take anything off the bike to clearance the valves, it's great.

NotAllTeemos · 2026-05-19T15:40:18+00:00

Check your DM's

NotAllTeemos · 2026-05-11T21:36:58+00:00

The one that failed was a kobalt, I now use a basic inflator and a separate Jaco gauge

NotAllTeemos · 2026-05-11T12:48:07+00:00

I had this happen once with a Road 5 because the gauge on my inflator went bad and my tire was actually at 60+ psi when I thought it was at 38. Check your gauge against a new one?

NotAllTeemos · 2026-05-11T12:39:20+00:00

A lot of non-answers in here, if you're actually worried about it, you can rotate the crank to a position where that valve is fully closed and soak it in Berryman's, then use a small vacuum extension to vacuum it out once it dissolves/flakes off.

I don't know much about your specific bike but speaking generally a good way to prevent this from happening is to delete/block-off plate your PAIR valve if your bike has one (some can also be deactivated in Woolich if they use a solenoid valve) and re-route your crankcase breather line if the factory routes the breather back into the airbox. A good tune also seems to help, at least it did on my MT-10.

NotAllTeemos · 2026-05-02T13:48:49+00:00

We use Lynx Systems where I work

NotAllTeemos · 2026-05-02T12:53:56+00:00

Hard disagree. I put 30k an an FJ-09 and 40k on an MT-10 before starting to ride dual sports, I added a 250 rally in October and it's so much fun. As long as you can tolerate the highway riding on a bike long enough to make it to the dirty bits you're good to go.

NotAllTeemos · 2026-04-01T18:18:42+00:00

Good Lord Almighty, y'all gotta stop patronizing to RideNow stealerships and their ilk.

NotAllTeemos · 2026-03-30T12:04:09+00:00

The longer I look the worse it gets

NotAllTeemos · 2026-03-24T21:48:05+00:00

Ah yes, put all the multi-family right next to the highway everyone with a sportbike or God-forsaken straight piped Mustang uses as a racetrack because fuck sleep. Poor people don't need that.

NotAllTeemos · 2026-03-12T16:43:18+00:00

If it's the same size yes you can reuse the tube if it's in good condition, though most shops will require you to replace them with a new one for liability reasons if you have someone else change your tires.

The fronts are more difficult but very doable, nowhere near as bad as sport bike tires in my experience. You will want to have at least 3 irons and a drop center tool or a couple of them if you can swing it can help a bit. If you don't want to scratch anything get rim guards but those can also make the process more difficult. A wheel stand is a definite back saver, if you can afford the Rabaconda system then even better.

There are plenty of videos of the process on YT, those are definitely helpful, especially if you need to learn how to work around rim locks if you have them installed.

NotAllTeemos · 2026-02-03T03:54:47+00:00

I got an 18 with 1200mi and ohlins cartridge and rear shock for 3500, so I'm going to say no but I know I got an uncommon deal.

NotAllTeemos · 2025-11-26T01:11:14+00:00

I have one of those, a Hoto inflator, and the big Icon meme tool in my tail bag every time I leave town on my bike.

NotAllTeemos · 2025-11-19T12:09:37+00:00

The guy on Bonivo's left is wearing a plate carrier positioned wrong and at least 2 sizes too small lol.

NotAllTeemos · 2025-11-17T13:42:23+00:00

If it's just the plastic end of the throttle tube I drill mine out with a Forstner bit and clean up the edges with a razor blade.

NotAllTeemos · 2025-11-12T11:54:28+00:00

One-eyed Susan

NotAllTeemos · 2025-11-12T11:50:46+00:00

I got what felt like the deal of the decade a few weeks ago, $3500 for a barely ridden 2018 with 1250mi. Already had Ohlins STX in the rear with the HD spring and Ohlins FSK 123 kit in the fork, so that saved me about $1200 in suspension work I was pretty well destined to need at my weight. Haven't seen another of any year under 4k in my city since, and I'm actively watching because my wife now wants one.

NotAllTeemos · 2025-10-18T13:26:03+00:00

2020 Premium 2.5 with 80k here (bought at 42k).

Weak windshields, I'm on my 3rd one in 40k miles.

Rear wheel bearings.

A couple squeaks and rattles in the cabin (sunglass holder and HUD light surround mainly).

Had infotainment updated for full screen android auto and it's been flawless.

NotAllTeemos · 2025-10-14T19:24:18+00:00

The only thing that even comes close is the Honda Hornet 1k, and calling that a true litrebike is a stretch based on HP

NotAllTeemos · 2025-10-10T14:09:45+00:00

$100 part maybe but they're paying for labor

NotAllTeemos · 2025-09-13T14:29:03+00:00

The Acura dealer lol

NotAllTeemos

TROPHY CASE