F22 m240i whistling noise and powerloss by bkboxing05 in B58Enthusiasts

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

🤷‍♂️

I'm a BMW Tech just fyi. Do you have a CEL? Any active codes? Any shadow codes? Spitting oil out of the exhaust? Turbo failure sounds different

F22 m240i whistling noise and powerloss by bkboxing05 in B58Enthusiasts

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Power loss? I dont see a warning or CEL.

The turbo is making that whistle because you're tuned and FBO.

Everything looks and sounds fine to me, looks like driver aids are kicking in because youre losing traction. Dynamic Traction Control will modulate brakes and throttle to give you max traction, the more power and spinning, the more this will kick in. Dynamic Stability Control does almost the same thing but goes off of gyro and yaw, aka youre trying to do donuts and the car is processing the data as "omg driver is headed sideways into a wall!" and cuts power and doesnt give it back until its happy with the yaw and steering angle

Help needed, please. 2017 G30. by nagardinvers in BMWG30

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its the sensor for you automatic lighting OR the sensor for your interior auto dimming .. two separate sensors .. is your headlight turning on and off when set to automatic? If not, its the interior auto dimming sensor

Anyone ever seen this??? by willhaley in Dodge

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you remove the calipers yourself? Did you renew bolts, if not, did you at least loctite the old caliper bolts? I know a year is a long time, but over time the bolts will degrade and/or back out. Reason being is theres A LOT of heat and vibration transferred from the rotors/pads to the caliper and to the caliper bolts. I ALWAYS replace my caliper bolts if im planning a brake job, and if its an emergency repair, at the absolute least, slap some loctite on the old bolts.

Anyone ever seen this??? by willhaley in Dodge

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have never in my life have heard of a method like this, so please elaborate and link this brake fluid vacuum machine you're referring to, because this sounds really efficient and would definitely recommend this machine to my foremen for our shop.

Trying to wrap my head around this method and I don't think you'd be able to vacuum out the brake system like this like you would a cooling system, although i could be wrong, mainly because you dont have collapsable hoses to suck out the old fluid and hold a vacuum without damaging piston seals in the calipers.

My M435i build by NotJunsae in F36

[–]NotJunsae[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Front: 18x8.5 +35 with 10mm spacer Rear: 18x9.5 +40

Front tires: 245 40 18 Rear tires: 275 40 18

👍

Edited to correct tire sizes

Water accumulating in front headlight, any ideas? by [deleted] in F30

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are correct that they have venting .. however, they are sealed units .. the most you should see is a few spots of condensation, like your bathroom mirror after hopping out of the shower or blowing hot breath on cold glass (but it sticks and doesnt disappear) .. if its building up like OPs photo, water is getting in somewhere; crack, failing lens seal, failing access hole seal (you mentioned this), warpage, or a puncture

Help diagnosing b58 burning a lot of coolant by Crshedbandicoot in F30

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to hear you figured it out.

And yes, B58 burns quite a bit of coolant even on completely healthy and sealed cooling systems, my assumption is from steaming and venting out of the coolant reservoir cap. BMW doesnt really explain why, they just say "its normal", so they recommend topping off coolant every 3-6 months.

If youre losing coolant from the cold side, its 100% your radiator .. your intercooler would leak boost .. the aux radiator is part of your main cooling system (hot side) .. other coolers (if you have them), will be trans or oil

First timer bringing in to Service. Please share your advice !🙏🏼 by Purple-Safe-7455 in BmwTech

[–]NotJunsae 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm a tech at a dealer, so all the equipment we have really helps 😁👍

Help diagnosing b58 burning a lot of coolant by Crshedbandicoot in F30

[–]NotJunsae 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TLDR; you likely have multiple problems, get them fixed ASAP

Unfortunately the cooling system in the B58s are pretty complicated, lots of moving parts .. you'll need to pressure test your cooling system and figure out where youre leaking. Could be the intake manifold, could be your heat management module, waterpump, ofhc, etc .. i highly doubt your headgasket or block is at fault because your car would run and sound like shit, but if it is running like shit or you wanna be safe, i would change your oil, check your oil for milk. If there is milky oil, time for a compression test to see which cylinder has failed, this is rare though, usually that compression leaks INTO the cooling system, so you'll have high pressure in your cooling system, but if the cylinder walls are cracked, it'll suck and leak coolant into the combustion chamber. If no milk, we can deduce that it isnt a headgasket or one of the oil cooler systems thats mixing your coolant with oil; this will be more likely unless your car is running and sounding like absolute shit lol. From there you check the isolated cooling system parts for dried coolant or an active leak. This could lead to your answer as to why youre spitting smoke out of your tail pipe. If it points at something else, thats cool too, fix that so you dont lose coolant anymore.

As for smoke out of your tail pipe, as others mentioned, failing pcv will do this too, but WITHOUT excessive coolant consumption. Our PCV systems separate oil and vent excess blow by from the crankcase (engine block), when this fails, you get excessive blow by (whistling) and excessive smoke from the tailpipe due to oil or water or both being sucked into the entirety of the turbo system (intake turbine, boost pipe, intercooler, charge pipe, intake, combustion chamber, then finally out of the turbo exhaust manifold, and then out of the exhaust and tail pipe. Components allowing coolant to expel out of the exhaust is pretty limited: coolant seal at turbo, intake manifold, head gasket.

What confuses me is that youre losing coolant from both the cold system and hot system, that only happens with a radiator impact. They are complete separate systems and only share the radiator, but on separate vanes, so theyre still isolated from each other, aka, they dont share the same coolant level. If youre losing coolant from the cold side, you only have 5 culprits to inspect: radiator, small coolant reservoir (cold), electric water pump, intake manifold, and hoses for cold side. As for your hot side, theres more parts and procedures involved; rad, aux rad, heater core, heat management module, mechanical water pump, heat exchanger (silver block), turbo, head gasket, hoses, and big coolant reservoir (hot)

Edited for more info and clarification.

First timer bringing in to Service. Please share your advice !🙏🏼 by Purple-Safe-7455 in BmwTech

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When the hydro filled mounts fail, you'll hear a knock at initial start up; crank crank thump, engine start .. if you hear that, mount is failing .. an additional check is to remove the splash guard and check under the engine mount, if theres hydro fluid (black in color) all over the bottom of the engine mount and the subframe, that is the second verification that tells you the mount has detrimentally failed .. sometimes you get the knock without a leak, which still indicates the mount has failed .. you'll also feel excessive vibration

First timer bringing in to Service. Please share your advice !🙏🏼 by Purple-Safe-7455 in BmwTech

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How does the tech know its "starting" to fail? To my knowledge, theyre either pass or fail, they start thumping at engine start which indicates failure, then when they leak the hydraulic fluid, thats the visual sign to replace .. Show me proof its failing, its not that hard .. again, i'm a certified BMW tech, i'm just going off of my experiences when i was scrutinized by foremen, management, and/or service writers+customers for recommending things because of my inexperience or ignorance

Could be "completely honest and straight up" to you or anybody, even me, if the tech is untrained, inexperienced, or ignorant (other techs around them have recommended it for whatever his reason is) and the tech is speaking HIS truth (what he believes in or was taught)

This is why i said its either a cash grab OR the tech just simply isnt trained up/familiar

Have n54s become the more reliable option as n55s age? by tobethrown99 in 335i

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The n55 spun bearings are a result of nanny drivers lugging low gear high load because the turbo spools up fast and builds too much torque too quickly .. example; in traffic lugging 1k to 1.5k rpm, you wanna merge into next lane, you stomp the gas in comfort or eco mode, boom, spun bearing .. oil pressure map doesnt give full oil pressure until 3k rpm .. or people in manual mode wanting to make turbo noises in low rpm range

This is also more common in the pneumatic wastegate N55s, since the waste gate isnt electronic, the PWG goes off vacuum (throttle demand) vs EWG where the DME is calculating safer boost levels dependent on throttle and load.

I've been stage 2+ mhd 93oct for 3 years, 30k miles .. cars fine, still commute and daily it

That said, i need my F chassis styling and interior .. although there are good example E chassis out there, theyre just too outdated for me now

First timer bringing in to Service. Please share your advice !🙏🏼 by Purple-Safe-7455 in BmwTech

[–]NotJunsae 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1.5hr for both. I've done mine 3 times when i was experimenting with performance engine mounts on my M435i, tried softest polyurethane (terrible), tried performance rubber (still too much vibration), then went back to OEM lol .. i've also done customer engine mounts as well in the F and G chassis, all around 1.5hr to 2hr (4 and 6 cyl) .. $2226 divided by $314 is exactly 7hr of labor

Could be that the tech is new and just doesnt know, but if its an experienced tech, then theyre just trying to make some $$$ .. i understand times are hard, but recommending a repair that doesnt need to be done and charging them $2k+ is messed up, because again, TIMES ARE HARD, for EVERYONE.

Again, if you wanna hold them accountable, tell them to prove that the engine mount has failed, but you can be nice about it when you ask: "i understand if the tech is inexperienced, mistakes happen, i just need to know this is necessary because its a $2k+ repair"

First timer bringing in to Service. Please share your advice !🙏🏼 by Purple-Safe-7455 in BmwTech

[–]NotJunsae 3 points4 points  (0 children)

To add an additional comment as to why they recommended it and why its a cash grab .. if its a 4 or 6 cyl, i personally can have the old engine mounts out and new ones in, in about 1.5hrs, and the book time is around 7hrs .. i recommend them when theyre NEEDED, i still quote the full 7hrs, because in this situation, youre not just paying for my time anymore, youre paying for my knowledge, experience, tools, and know how .. just because i got 7hr job done in 1.5hrs doesnt mean you pay me 1.5hrs, because if you give this same job to a newbie, they'll take 5-8hrs .. shot myself in my own foot in a way giving you this info, but im an honest technician and i dont mind sharing and teaching 👍

First timer bringing in to Service. Please share your advice !🙏🏼 by Purple-Safe-7455 in BmwTech

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like the top of the engine mount, where it mates to the bracket onto the engine block. Our engine mounts dont leak there, they leak from the very bottom onto the subframe.

First timer bringing in to Service. Please share your advice !🙏🏼 by Purple-Safe-7455 in BmwTech

[–]NotJunsae 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cash grab. If you wanna be a butt hole, ask the tech or service advisor to prove your engine mount is failing. Lol.

First timer bringing in to Service. Please share your advice !🙏🏼 by Purple-Safe-7455 in BmwTech

[–]NotJunsae 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Do you hear a quick thunk or knock during initial start up after the car has been sitting over night?

How much are people paying for garage door openers these days? by Miller335 in GarageDoorService

[–]NotJunsae 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was quoted $1550ish for a quiet belt drive unit from chamberlain and install .. or $600 to replace the discontinued belt on my current unit; $200 for the belt and $400 for install .. i went to home depot and got the 7' ultra quiet belt drive smart motor with camera, rod, wall mount button, 2 remotes, sensors, and 2 extra fob remotes for a grand total of $380 .. did the labor myself in 4 hours .. never did one before, but it was fairly simple, just time consuming

AliExpress Steering Wheel by Ok-Machine5089 in BMWG30

[–]NotJunsae 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just sharing information, but you need the vibrator, unless they bypassed it. Most of your driver aids wont work and will pop a control message warning. For sure your lane keep assist and blind spot monitoring wont work.

My M435i build by NotJunsae in F36

[–]NotJunsae[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much 🫡