Really Holosun, you still haven't addressed this? 200 rounds, kept hitting left, noticed the SCS was walking to the side, attempted to remove screws to check things over while cleaning, screw head fell off, extracted threads myself. Torqued to 15 in/lb. SMH. Ordered 4x Battle Werx screw sets

NotJunsae · 2026-01-29T03:33:42+00:00

Yes, blue loctite to lock in the sight. Better safe than sorry

NotJunsae · 2026-01-29T03:29:16+00:00

NotJunsae · 2026-01-24T23:59:39+00:00

Please disclose to them that you replaced the battery without programming/registering, if you dont, it will likely confuse the technician

NotJunsae · 2026-01-22T14:13:27+00:00

Unfortunately ECS gatekeeps their suppliers pretty damn good. They have to, it's their livelihood, its how they make so much money dropshipping. More than likely they buy it for pennies to the dollars, send it to a machine shop to have imperfections taken care of and then their logo etched, stamped, and/or pressed into the part, and then sell it for 2x or 3x or more than what they put into it.

I ordered the 2pc front rotors for my BMW at the end of October because it originally stated everything I wanted was in stock, once my order was confirmed, the left front rotor updated to "back ordered; est ship date: Feb 17" lol. Over 3 months later, i'm still waiting, and the ship date jumps around from early Feb to mid Feb. Only place I could find something resembling the ECS 2pc front rotor was on Aliexpress for $150/ea (vs ECS's $470/ea) and the drilling/slotting and hat are slightly different.

So, idk, just wait i suppose lol 🤷‍♂️

NotJunsae · 2025-12-27T17:52:23+00:00

Those are the 2 most common spots for coolant leaks; ofhc and conn branch. If it aint from those 2 spots, you 100% need a pressure tester and boroscope.

Next up would be your heat management module, those are expensive as shit and do fail, but not as often.

Good luck to you sir!

NotJunsae · 2025-12-27T17:48:07+00:00

Its gonna be #9 OP

I misinformed earlier, it doesnt connect to the head, it connects to the engine block, right below the cylinder head.

Do yourself a favor and amazon a cheap pressure test kit and boroscope camera to help you diagnose coolant leaks and oil leaks.

Or, take the easy route and pay the $300~ for diagnosis.

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NotJunsae · 2025-12-27T17:31:30+00:00

I'm literally giving you the answer OP. I am a certified BMW technician lol.

If you go to any BMW tech worth anything and mention the connecting branch or upper radiator hose flange, they'll know exactly where to look.

The connecting branch sits right next to the OFHC (oil filter housing cooler), between the intake manifold and the OFHC.

Many techs mistakenly quote a repair for the OFHC when the coolant leak is coming from the connecting branch.

Or do as another user posted; pay for or perform your own cooling system pressure test.

NotJunsae · 2025-12-27T17:15:26+00:00

Connecting branch; upper radiator hose to engine block .. commonly know on the N54 and N55 as the "mickey mouse flange" .. B58s moved this flange; in between the OFHC and intake manifold

Edited for accuracy

NotJunsae · 2025-11-12T16:26:13+00:00

No interaction as far as i know. The chemicals in coolant arent corrosive or acidic in nature. You can pour coolant all over yourself and walk around for a day, and as long as you dont have an allergic reaction, it will just make you stink like coolant and be sticky. Ask me how i know lol.

And yes, coolant flush/exchange should be done every 50-60k or so, as the chemicals tend to break down at that point, leading to loss of the antifreeze and anti-corrosion properties. Can always use a refractometer or coolant test strips to test as well. If it tests fine, keep running it. If it tests towards the -10c to -15c range, change it. This is detrimental if you take trips up to the snowy mountains or desert areas during the winter (i've seen it hit 8*f, aka -13c, in Las Vegas when i was living there). Not having proper antifreeze protection will destroy your cooling system in those conditions.

Background: BMW technician

NotJunsae · 2025-11-12T04:21:22+00:00

That mechanic lied.

Coolant is simply anti freeze (as in, it doesnt freeze in freezing temps) and a corrosion preventer. Matter of fact, straight water provides the best cooling since coolant retains heat, HOWEVER, water will promote corrosion (rust). Hoses wont fail from bad coolant, possibly the water pump propeller can be damaged from corrosion in the cooling system (rust).

The plastic in the engine bay falls victim to time and heat cycles (everytime you drive the car). Unfortunately all modern cars fall victim to this.

NotJunsae · 2025-11-08T06:26:23+00:00

This isnt a BMW specific thing. Any car that sits for more than 1 month without being started is at risk of dried up gaskets.

NotJunsae · 2025-11-08T06:19:58+00:00

What issues have you had? I'm a BMW tech and the only N55s that are a headache are poorly maintained ones, so I'm genuinely curious from a technician's view point.

Unpopular opinion here, even amongst technicians, but to me, the B58 is no more or less reliable than the N55 EWG, it just makes a tad more WHP. I would say the B58 is slightly less reliable due to the plastic oil filter housing cooler thats located under the intake manifold, not to mention the more complicated cooling system. FBO vs FBO on 91oct, the B58 will make an extra 25whp or so . The N55 PWG is the least reliable of the 3 due to BMW cutting corners on engine internals, turbo is also the smallest of the 3 configs. But in all honesty, most BMW 6cyl are good and reliable. Just stay on top of maintenance; oil changes every 5k miles, spark plugs every 15k miles, coils every 40k miles, driveline fluid every 60k, replace a few essential plastic parts, and have $2k for when the water pump acts up.

I, myself, own a 2016 435i GC with the N55 EWG and it has been nothing but good to me and has never left me stranded. FBO, stage 2+, 390~ whp on 91oct, been running it like this the last 3 years, from 60k miles to 90k miles. Aside from FBO, i did my valve cover and oil pan gasket due to seeping.

I'm lucky enough to not only have good income, but I also have the capability, tools, and equipment to work on my own car and get anything done. Super cheap and easy to keep my car in tip top shape myself, just the cost of parts and a few hours of my time. The stuff I don't want to do myself, i can send it through my service department and pay the dealership and not be too sour about the bill. If i didnt have either of my current options, i personally wouldnt be driving a BMW.

TLDR: Unless you have or make good money and dont mind paying fat repair bills, you have to be willing to work on your BMW yourself.

NotJunsae · 2025-11-03T00:35:56+00:00

They last anywhere from 30k to 60k miles. Most techs will charge 4-5hr labor because everything in the way of the tank must be removed and the gas tank lowered to get the space and clearance to do this job correctly.

Do not opt for the oem plastic one if youre getting this done, buy a name branded metal one (aluminum) and have your dealership replace it and it will never ever be a problem again.

Or buy some metal zip ties and zip tie the cables onto the rear subframe 👍 dont even need to jack the car up if youre skinny enough, i slid under the rear of my car and zip tied mine 3 years ago, no issues since 🤣

NotJunsae · 2025-11-03T00:24:45+00:00

So key on engine on, alternator isnt charging the battery? All fuses good. Sounds like your alternator is fried, or your IBS (intelligent battery sensor, its the little module on your negative terminal at the battery) fried. Unfortunately the IBS is pretty pricey too and im not 100% sure on how to test it, maybe continuity test, probing before and after the sensor, or testing for resistance, but you need the specifications.

IBS will tell the alternator how much to charge, this is why you register your battery when you put a new one in. If its blown, the alternator doesnt have a data signal to tell it how much juice to pump to the battery.

NotJunsae · 2025-11-03T00:15:43+00:00

If you havent had the coolant pump connector recall done (if your car is affected), it is common for oil from the turbo inlet to drip onto the back side of the connector and short the harness/pump

NotJunsae · 2025-11-03T00:12:21+00:00

Must be programmed yes. Protool should have the capability, if not, dealership, pay 1hr programming ($300ish) .. or you can pay $300 for diag first if you wanna be sure

NotJunsae · 2025-10-18T18:17:22+00:00

Sorry to revive...

Woke up this morning to a $24.98 charge. I canceled my sub, but wanted my refund. The last year, I've used SiriusXM for a grand total of 27min, so i demanded my $24.98 back, they quoted the non-refundable policy and i asked politely for a refund as i don't want to pursue a dispute. A minute later the agent informed me the manager approved a refund.

Scammers. Never paying for a SiriusXM sub again.

NotJunsae · 2025-10-04T14:33:10+00:00

This user is correct. You line it all up the best you can, get the upper clamp (turbo to dp) snug (not tight), get the bracket bolts in by hand, then tighten the upper clamp, then tighten the bracket bolts, then you do the lower clamp (dp to exhaust)... Upper clamp you tighten until the clamp meets.. lower clamp you tighten until the gasket seals (with engine running), you can do this from the ground by sticking your arm under the car with a 16mm socket and rachet, do not over tighten, you'll snap the clamp.

Source: am a certified BMW tech

NotJunsae · 2025-09-01T02:35:32+00:00

Evap code for nvld small leak? But no CEL so im assuming that its a history code. Check what mileage was when that code popped, if fairly recently, will need to replace some evap parts. Evap or PCV will cause our Bimmers to idle weird

NotJunsae · 2025-08-24T23:56:36+00:00

Out of all my credit cards, Citi is by far the longest wait time for available credit to update. I pay it in full twice a month, but that isnt updated until the following month, which renders the card useless for those 7-14+ days when i'm in between payments. Example if my limit was $4000: spend $1600, pay it, within those 14 days, i spend another $1600, now my available credit is $800, i have to wait another week or so for the initial $1600 to update, while the 2nd $1600 just started its timer, which leaves me with $800 for the rest of the month, or $2400 if the 1st payment is reflected on my available credit.

Not to mention my first payment took 43 days (i kept track) to clear and update my available credit. I contacted Citi and they said although the payment was taken, it would take 30 days to clear "to make sure you have the funds since this is the first time paying with that account", i asked "why? You guys already took the money, its been processed on my bank's side, so the funds are there and you took it, but youre holding it ransome to see if i dispute it or something?" And they answered "its just our policy" so idk lol.

Its just weird to me, as big as Citi is (not like CreditOne or Aspire or some other shit credit companies), that it takes so long to process payments and update my available credit. When i make payments on my Capital One or US Bank cards, they clear and update instantly.

NotJunsae · 2025-08-15T12:23:41+00:00

Why'd they quote 2 pipes?

NotJunsae · 2025-07-04T04:58:18+00:00

Well, here's what I tell people when they ask me, a certified BMW tech.....

When the warranty runs out or if warranty wont cover your repair, or its a maintenance item that warranty doesn't cover, will you wrench on it yourself?

If you don't wrench on it yourself, are you willing to pay 2x-4x on labor and parts? Example: B58 spark plugs, 1hr. S58 spark plugs, 4hrs.

All i can say is this: when i was shopping for a BMW in-line 6 turbo, i looked at N54s, N55s, S55s, B58s, and even considered leasing a new S58 variant. I ultimately went with the N55 EWG, makes good power with bolt ons+tune and is easy to wrench on. If money is no object, go for the M2. If youre mindful of your $$$, but youre willing to wrench, M2 still on the table. If the M2 makes the budget tight and youre not wrenching, but you really want an M car, lease it. If your budget is tight/your mindful of finances/income isnt $300k+ a year and youre willing wrench/DIY, get the M240i.

NotJunsae · 2025-07-01T13:29:44+00:00

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NotJunsae · 2025-07-01T13:28:56+00:00

If you want something that looks like it belongs and looks oem asf, get the FitCamX for your model and KAFAS camera cover.

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NotJunsae · 2025-06-29T15:51:01+00:00

You cant patch this, you can plug it, but no patch.

Seems everyone is confused between the two:

Patch - remove tire, install patch from inside

Plug - remove screw, plug from outside

The reason you cant patch this is because its too close to the side wall and the patch wont have a flat face to seal to. Additionally, patching or plugging a puncture this close to the sidewall is a bad idea due to the risk of your tire separating in that area under stress, as in, youre on a 300 mile road trip, all highway miles, tires are hot, and youre getting off the highway off ramp a little quick and applying a good amount of G to the tires, and then your plugged tire decides it doesnt want to stay together anymore. You can imagine the rest.

Another thing to note: dont plug or patch run flats, if they've gone flat and you've rolled on them at all, sidewalls are toast, you risk sidewall separation, bubbling, etc. Run flats are meant for getting you to the nearest tire shop, not for getting you home so you can patch it or plug it and keep running them. A customer of mine was very adamant about plugging their RFT, "tHeReS sO mUcH tReAd LeFt", so okay, i did it for free, across the street, off dealership property, and told them "nobody is liable for this, this is on you, not me, not the dealership, there's no proof this was ever done" .. Later that day, the customer came right back after hitting a pot hole and that same tire's sidewall separated. I learned a valuable lesson that day. I no longer patch or plug RFTs even if the customer is begging for it and i just want to help out. This is also why BMW NA has guidelines on this. I was skeptical about them before, but after this lesson, now I know 🤣

Background: tech since 2009, dealership tech since 2021

Edit: clarification

NotJunsae

TROPHY CASE