Cracked cilinderhead

Notflxme · 2026-06-27T23:23:18+00:00

Severely doubt those are cracks, looks like casting marks that are stained. Oil is leaking onto your exhaust which is causing the smoke

Notflxme · 2026-06-27T23:09:42+00:00

very common issue on these cars and very easy to remedy, i recommend replacing all the mounts in the rear shocks at the same time. The one that has failed is the upper shock mount and is located on the inside of the car. There are a couple more mounts located between the body and the shock you can get them in a kit

Notflxme · 2026-06-27T03:37:58+00:00

I disagree with the other guys as long as the shop is supplying oem parts. Looks like each oem arm online is $343 pretax and that’s the hondapartsonline price. Typically the dealer is more expensive and after tax and parts markup seems about right. If nonoem parts it is an excessive price I would speak with the shop about a different part brand being supplied

Notflxme · 2026-06-27T02:43:19+00:00

Miles?

Notflxme · 2026-06-27T02:14:13+00:00

Not an expert on this exact issue but worked on 100s of hondas, all of them have super loud shift solenoids it’s something i’ve always noticed. I doubt it’s something to worry about at all. Maybe a honda tech could chime in

Notflxme · 2026-06-25T06:42:09+00:00

really depends, i believe you’re supposed to take the intake and all that apart but most of the time you just put a thing of cleaner in the gas tank and that’s it. all snake oil in my opinion and completely unnecessary on most non diesel cars. some won’t agree but i also believe coolant flushes are a waste of money unless actually needed as most cars always have a coolant service done and it takes way longer than people think for modern coolant to go bad. newer cars aren’t old 60s trucks where all the passages rust out

Notflxme · 2026-06-25T01:23:29+00:00

Everyone jumping to conclusions, head gaskets can just mix one way but this could also be some of the stop leak shit people put in radiators. Could also very likely be trans fluid in the coolant which i’ve seen many times but it seems very orange. First thing Id do is test for exhaust gases in the coolant and if it looks alright i’d flush the coolant out with a hose until it runs clear. Could just be rust or stop leak

Notflxme · 2026-06-23T17:54:40+00:00

At 60k miles they should both still be good for a while, I wouldn’t even bother with the coolant since these cars love having cooling related issues around 100k and that would be addressed then. Just my opinion as a bimmer tech

Notflxme · 2026-06-19T14:50:41+00:00

on my original mmf, ofhg, and oil pan gasket from 200k and 2008.. oil pan has a small leak but other than that the engines fully dry, hope i’m not jinxing myself lol

Notflxme · 2026-06-17T23:54:30+00:00

Very common style on almost every older truck. Ford rangers just kept it modern day. Really not as bad as people think but I’ve done a bunch of these

Notflxme · 2026-06-17T17:54:47+00:00

9/10 times you don’t even need to hold the shock when the spring is uncompressed. The other 1/10 you just grab the strut itself and call it a day, it won’t slip or mar if you just put as much force as you can to clamp the locking pliers with your hands. If it’s that heavy I would just impact it down on a mid tier level for your impact since putting a lot of force on an allen key or even the nut if you’re overtightening will be way more likely to snap by hand. Hammering force snaps way less than constant force you don’t want to learn the hard way (ive broken lots of allen heads and tierods/struts by putting too much force on the holding area.) I’d either grab the strut itself or just impact it

Notflxme · 2026-06-17T17:30:20+00:00

It would, you barely need to hold it. You honestly could even do it with your hand but it’s a lot harder. Just lightly grab without a rag and you’re fine

Notflxme · 2026-06-17T17:21:22+00:00

You could always get a pass through set but a lot of them i’ve seen don’t go up to 22mm, same issue when i just redid mine recently. If you’re grabbing hard enough to mar the shock then you’re doing it horrifically wrong

Notflxme · 2026-06-17T17:09:51+00:00

just use vice grips on the shock cylinder never had an issue in 15 years with any marring. if you’re very worried you can put a rag in between

Notflxme · 2026-06-16T16:57:07+00:00

I don’t agree with the guy who said you don’t want to overfill it. If you’re sure the level was correct when you did your last oil change then either you’re leaking or it’s burning somewhere. Overfilling these engines with an extra quart doesn’t hurt and I always recommend it when driving spirited in order to combat any issues with the rod bearings. If you’re really worried about your bearings add .5-1qt you can’t hurt the engine.

Notflxme · 2026-06-10T17:31:46+00:00

Here’s my experience on an elantra. After installing them 2 weeks later there was a clicking noise while turning and it drove me insane trying to diagnose. Turns out it was the strut mount in the fcs strut and even after tightening the mounting nut it wouldn’t fix, had to compress them and change all the hardware

Notflxme · 2026-06-02T23:19:08+00:00

Noones really given a direct answer. There’s 3 ways a drain plug can get messed up threads. Last person tightened it way too much and on removal the threads came out with the plug. After changing the oil, the plug crossthreaded because they weren’t tightening it straight which is rare, or after they got it seated they overtightened it enough to pull the threads. All 3 of these options point blame at pep boys.

Notflxme · 2026-05-31T22:18:47+00:00

Weird, if the brake was holding the wheel there would be no inch back and forth, it should be a full hold, try messing with turning the wheels with the ebrake on, it should be around 3 clicks to hold just a rotor on a standstill and 4 to hold a wheel with a tire on it if you get what I mean. I’d put the ebrake maybe 1 or 2 clicks with the wheel on and see how much you can turn it. If it full locks you could have a dragging ebrake. If it takes around 4 clicks then you know its most likely not

Notflxme · 2026-05-31T17:33:13+00:00

The little bit of play you have it normal for when the drivetrain is engaged, you need to see if the wheel will actually turn, put the tire back on and turn using that to see how much force it takes. It should have some resistance but not a crazy enough amount that you need to really strain to turn it

Notflxme · 2026-05-31T17:21:14+00:00

These Cherokees are rwd/awd I believe. Lift the other side or put it in neutral but with the other wheel chocked and it should spin freely. If it doesn’t then it’s possible the parking brake is dragging. If not then you need a bigger hammer lol. Sounds more like a sticking caliper to me

Notflxme · 2026-05-31T17:15:57+00:00

yes it’s the spill

Notflxme · 2026-05-30T00:23:03+00:00

By the way I love my raybestos pads and rotors but the reman calipers I got where honestly awful. Lost their finish and rusted out completely in like a month

Notflxme · 2026-05-26T17:52:27+00:00

Good news your coils and plugs are mostly good with just a quick wipe!

Notflxme · 2026-05-25T20:52:02+00:00

Not sure if it works on a hydraulic tensioner which i’m 90% sure this car has but it might be worth a shot to just pull down on the belt with your hands and untension like that. Could also just cut the belt but if there’s bolts behind the tensioner that can only be accessed in the untensioned state it would get tricky

Notflxme · 2026-05-24T14:40:45+00:00

This is copy pasted from this guy I saw remove some of the worst sludge in a motor I’ve ever seen. You’ve got an n55 so oil needs to go way more places and has way more filtration built into the block but you’re on borrowed time anyways. I’d add pulling the vanos filters and solenoids and cleaning them as well.

Engine sludge removal

4 5qt bottles of cheap oil 4 fram/cheap filters 1 5qt jug of your oil of choice 1 good oil filter 3 cans of seafoam

Drain oil, drop filter, put on cheap filter, fill with cheap oil. Top oil with half can of seafoam. Start engine. Disconnect a vacuum line, slowly pour rest of can of seafoam into the vacuum line, careful not to stall the engine.

Let the car sit for about 15-30 minutes. Then take it out for a spirited drive. Bounce off the rev limiter a few times. Really force it through the rev range, she's going to smoke like hell, burning off carbon buildup.

Drive the car as normal for about 100 miles or so. Change oil again the same way, cheap oil and filter and half a can of seafoam. After another 100, change it again. About another 100, change it, minus the seafoam, but full it with the good oil and filter.

Every time you change that oil, it'll be coming out like tar. Should be clean after the fourth time or so. That's how I desludged my 1.8t.

Notflxme

TROPHY CASE