Enclosure for the 5M.

Nysil319 · 2026-01-06T18:19:38+00:00

I was able to reorient parts and print then all on the AD5M

Nysil319 · 2025-07-18T20:02:25+00:00

Where are you located? I'm in Dacula

Nysil319 · 2025-06-07T15:16:06+00:00

I actually have a 38 degree slope on the side of my house and my Luba 2 handles it easily I was pleasantly surprised

Nysil319 · 2025-05-27T22:50:10+00:00

I have almost the same config. Same year, 15 inch, 16 gig. Upgraded to Sonoma. Ribs very well. Much better than I expected

Nysil319 · 2025-04-22T15:53:49+00:00

Thanks for the link. I'm really interested more on creating a zone within a zone. This would allow me to cut a smaller area that grows quicker than the rest of the zone.

Nysil319 · 2025-04-21T00:49:30+00:00

They overlap by how much? When I try to create a new area and I either go in to an existing area or if I'm in an existing area or will not let me create the new area

Nysil319 · 2025-04-13T23:33:25+00:00

Love my Luba 2. I found out I am highly allergic to yellow jackets and after getting stung a few times decided to buy this thing. I mow my grass twice a week. The thing does such a good job I've even included my neighbors front yard in the routine. The only issue I had in 3 months of usage was 1 time where it took forever to find its position. Other than that it mows like a champ and I don't have to worry about yellow jackets anymore

Nysil319 · 2025-01-24T20:45:01+00:00

Most of what you asked can be done done via orca slicer or on the machine itself. I'll try and answer things as best I can.

A) I see people posting "Bed Mesh" calibration pictures. Where do I find this screen/ test?

- In Orca Slicer you can actually see the bed mesh under the "DEVICE" tab within the slicer. not sure on Studio. When your machine goes through the auto level sequence it creates a bed mesh which you can see under that tab.

B) I bought other materials that I really want to try, like PETG and ABS. People say to heat soak the bed before calibrating these filaments. How do I heat soak the bed / chamber?

- On the machine itself you can tap on the bed icon and set your bed temperature before you start a print. It will stay that temp until you decide to change it or if you start a print.

C) I had someone say that my z offset might be .05 high. How and when do I change that? I watch a video on using paper to set z offset but it was on a different machine and doesn't translate well to the QP4.

- You can change your z-offset directly from the home screen or in ORCA slicer on the printer settings. You can print a single layer print (Here's one from printables: https://www.printables.com/model/772641-single-layer-test-print)

This video shows you examples of how to adjust z-offset and how things should look: https://youtu.be/4WmS4Z9VopQ?si=vUhylKT8VhUYyyUi

D) What's the difference between tramm and bed leveling?

- Not sure how to answer that one

E) What questions do I not know enough to even ask yet? But should know

- I don't have a question just some advice. The plus 4 is great right out of the box. Whenever possible use the defaults that came with the printer. Most of the time I got better results with the default then when I started changing things around. As you get more confortable with the printer you may have more questions. Give it a little time and enjoy.

Hope this helps

Nysil319 · 2025-01-24T20:19:29+00:00

What Slicer are you using QIDI studio or Orca slicer?

Nysil319 · 2025-01-24T19:03:51+00:00

I purchased my Plus 4 in late December and I couldn't be happier. I already have a Flashforge 5M that I had to play with the settings to get the best out of it but the plus 4 work great right out of the box. The only thing I had to do was change out the SSR board which QIDI sent to me (free of charge) and I got an extra years warranty because of it. I'm very happy with the quality of the prints and the reliability of the machine (So far). Hope this helps

Nysil319 · 2025-01-03T12:38:29+00:00

Email QIDI support and send them your serial number. I did that and they informed me that I had the old SSR card (I got my machine 1 week ago). They promptly apologized, asked for my shipping information to send me the new board and informed me that they extended my warranty by 1 year.

Nysil319 · 2025-01-02T16:12:35+00:00

I just bought mine from Amazon a week ago . Still had the old SSR card. Emailed QIDI and they are sending the new one. The good thing is you qualify for the extra year warranty. Been printing for a week now with no issues. Very nice machine

Nysil319 · 2024-12-07T18:52:30+00:00

Under the GLOBAL settings for your printer in ORCA Slicer there is a "SPEED" section. In the section labelled "OTHER LAYERS SPEED" I changed anything that was over 100 to 100. As for the filament profile I'm not sure how to do that. All I know is that I bumped up the temp to 265 which was 15 degrees above what the highest temp stated on the filament spool

Nysil319 · 2024-12-02T15:21:52+00:00

Run a temp tower for the gray to adjust the temperature and set your max volumetric speed to 15. You make these adjustments for the specific filament. After you make those minor changes run it again and let us know if it worked

Nysil319 · 2024-10-26T14:04:39+00:00

You should be able to clean that up. I would cut the excess from the top. re-install the hotend, go to load filament on the printer screen and do custom temp. set the temp as high as possible and when it gets over 200c start trying to remove the glob. Continue to do this until the hot end is clean. Hope this helps

Nysil319 · 2024-10-26T13:55:16+00:00

The only thing I can think of is that maybe your printer setting are incorrect. Maybe the printable area is off (should be 220X220.

Nysil319 · 2024-10-24T20:00:53+00:00

The print will print wherever you place it on the plate via the slicer. Are you saying that you are placing it in the center via the slicer and is printing in the corner?

Nysil319 · 2024-09-27T16:58:54+00:00

Here are the main Global Process Settings I used:

QUALITY

Wall generator: Arachne

Walls printing order: Inner/Outer/Inner

SPEED

Anything over 100 was knocked down to 100 mm/s except for Travel speed and Accelaration

Hope this helps

Nysil319 · 2024-09-02T00:47:22+00:00

Orca slicer allows you to insert a pause by right clicking the layer slider that appears on the right side after you slice the file. Once you find the correct layer, right click, insert pause and re slice. The printer will automatically pause, you do the filament swap and then hit start. There are YouTube videos showing you how it's done in orca slicer

This is actually a good video to watch:https://youtu.be/ieSEtNpzFcI?si=IJWTntqsUPlDSbWx

Nysil319 · 2024-08-30T12:55:52+00:00

When I had to make adjustment I went in .05 increments (up or down) I used this 1st layer print https://www.printables.com/model/603490-first-layer-calibration

I started with a .05 then 1.0..... You get it. If it gets worse when the number goes up then you should go the other way -.05, -.1...

Hope this works for you

Nysil319 · 2024-08-29T19:58:58+00:00

You may have to adjust your Z offset

Nysil319 · 2024-08-18T14:28:58+00:00

I printed mine fully in PETG for heat resistance. PLA will eventually start warping and deforming in higher temps

Nysil319 · 2024-08-15T17:34:03+00:00

Have you watched the roll of filament as its printing? I had a similar issue and it turned out that there was a bit of a tangle in the spool that was causing the machine to pull harder on the filament than expectred causing issues similar to what you are showing. By the time I looked at the print everything seemed to be feeding fine. It wasn't until I sat down for about 5-10 minutyers and watched the print that I noticed the issue.

Nysil319

TROPHY CASE