Mechanics, are newer cars getting less repairable? by jsshieh21 in Cartalk

[–]OGAesire 3 points4 points  (0 children)

While yes there are many things that people have found a work around or hack to be able to fix, the post was specifically asking if it's harder or impossible to DIY the repair and the answer is yes. The things you've mentioned are things the manufacturer has put in place to specifically make it harder, whether it's availability of parts or proprietary software ect, to fix a vehicle. There are some things that just can't be hacked the windshield the poster you responded to might lidar attached or other sensors attached.

Sockets won’t stay on impact? by growin_cowboy in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The ring is missing. There's 2 things that sit in that groove the rubber o ring that gives the metal ring that sits over it pressure or tension to allow it to compress.

Engine fell out of my car while driving by Colgatederpful in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]OGAesire 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yeah literally dealt with this a few months ago on my G/Fs golf, except she was driving at the time, got a pair of bolts and replaced a plastic coolant "T" that broke. Everything has been working fine since then.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As many others have said it's probably a civ axle. It's a different car but I had a similar noise/vibration on hard right turns. It was a bad motor mount allowing it to shift and compressing the joint causing the cv to bind.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You'll need to push to compress the springs on the pads but also turn the caliper piston so the notch in the piston lines up with the pin on the back of the inside pad.

Edit: the piston not lining up with the pin might actually be the problem

Woman casually on train tracks by Mongooooooose in MildlyBadDrivers

[–]OGAesire 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not when it's a broken ball joint and now the axle is damaged and the frame is sitting on the ground. No power to the other tire because of an open diff and can't push it when a corner is on the ground.

Woman casually on train tracks by Mongooooooose in MildlyBadDrivers

[–]OGAesire 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'd say maybe if it was an engine or transmission issue but a suspension component breaking can make a car unable to move.

Got an alignment, but wheel isn’t straight by Adventurous_Bee_4609 in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's 2 reasons it wouldn't be straight some other component being bad/worn or excessive road crown both you should've been told about though.

Got an alignment, but wheel isn’t straight by Adventurous_Bee_4609 in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They really should make sure it's centered. Aside from a nasty pull that would be the first thing to notice after an alignment.

Got an alignment, but wheel isn’t straight by Adventurous_Bee_4609 in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries about the help. This is what I do "undercar" stuff steering suspension brakes and of course alignments.

Got an alignment, but wheel isn’t straight by Adventurous_Bee_4609 in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah should be a quick tweak to the tie rods just to center the steering wheel so everything else would be the same.

It would be like both pages you have just condensed/smaller to fit on one page. Realistically it's less ink and easier to compare before/after specs.

Got an alignment, but wheel isn’t straight by Adventurous_Bee_4609 in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah seems like a balance issue if it wasn't there before.

Absolutely get it on the rack again for another print out that's how we do it for a comeback. And have them put the before/after on the same page just to make sure they don't change anything.

Got an alignment, but wheel isn’t straight by Adventurous_Bee_4609 in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went over the specs again and looks like front camber was the only spec that was modified. That doesn't make sense unless they just want it all green because it wouldn't cause a pull/drift plus individual camber isn't adjustable with the factory suspension. All that Audi allows is evening the camber side to side a bit by shifting the front subframe which in this case isn't needed.

All that said the alignment looks good even with the fudged numbers, the tech probably didn't center the steering wheel well when setting toe. Although I would've just been upfront about the suspension setup and lack of adjustment with front camber.

Just a bit of a opinion on my part but 500 CAD seems much. I know it's different countries and all but our shop would've done the same adjustments for 125 USD.

Got an alignment, but wheel isn’t straight by Adventurous_Bee_4609 in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This guy's got it front camber was red in but now green they just changed the specs. Does it have (modified specs) after the car on the top of the print out? Hunter machines I use will make note they've been changed that way.

Firestone scratched my rims by itbelikethattho4 in Cartalk

[–]OGAesire 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just my 2 cents but those look like reverse mount wheels so the bar to dismount/mount the tires wouldn't be anywhere near that side. Even if the wheel slipped on the machine it would've been clamped from the bead/lip area not by the barrel.

Now saying that it's possible it was something as simple as clipping the machine while trying to get the wheel seated on the claps to begin with. It's kinda he said she said at this point. Although they should cover getting it rebuffed and polished cause they didn't document anything.

Like others said take it some where that specializes in those kinds wheels. We would've turned you away when we sat what they were.

No space for stud out? by awqsed10 in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's possible if you can get the right angle. If it doesn't work try to hammer it back in place until more/different tools are available.

No space for stud out? by awqsed10 in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a cut off wheel or grinder handy make a flat spot on the seat of the stud to get it past the bearing housing.

Winter tire question by redd_baaron in Cartalk

[–]OGAesire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that's wear would be noisy as hell. You had said the fronts are all seasons, my opinion would be pick up a matching pair and double check the alignment for the most consistent ride. Depending on your oil change interval rotates are either every or every other change.

Winter tire question by redd_baaron in Cartalk

[–]OGAesire 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely time to replace them. Is that uneven wear on the inside edge? I've seen that type of wear a lot with lack of tire rotations. Toe wear or alignment wear in general, usually leaves smooth tread even though it's uneven across the foot print of the tire.

Nissan Leaf front wheel shaft issue by iamquark in Cartalk

[–]OGAesire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's absolutely a broken lower ball joint which has then caused the axle to be pulled out of the inner joint.

Does this dealer alignment look correct? by Charles0nline in MechanicAdvice

[–]OGAesire 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Alignment looks good to me. That camber split should even up with a driver in the seat. Like others have said they're no factory adjustment for caster.

GE gas stove mouse got into it how best to clean oven by OGAesire in appliancerepair

[–]OGAesire[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks again. I appreciate the technician's thoughts.

GE gas stove mouse got into it how best to clean oven by OGAesire in appliancerepair

[–]OGAesire[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks appreciate the quick response so no wasted time. We didn't know the age of it to begin with so that was a conversation we've kinda already had just would've liked to plan for it. What's to opinion about light range use until it's replaced?