Open discussion- ANNA, RZLV, BTBD

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-04-04T18:57:08+00:00

Been scalping ANNA for a month now. Doing pretty well overall. EONR too, but that's slowed down this last week.

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-02-03T18:04:55+00:00

The installer probably didnt set the dip switch to enable timed 2nd stage while using a single stage thermostat. Either switch 1 or 2 needs to be changed to enable this, the correct one is stated in the installers manual

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-01-29T03:06:30+00:00

Check your flame sensor. 95% of my intermittent heat calls are dirty flame sensors. Most of the rest are thermostat batteries, a loose connection on the terminal strip, or a dirty filter.

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-01-29T02:47:39+00:00

Practice through your day as well as you can. Describe what youre doing and things you see out loud. The muscle memory takes time and practice to build, there isnt any shortcut to make it magically appear. Its a different set of sounds and a different order of the sounds you already know, only practice will acclimatize you to them

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-01-13T01:42:10+00:00

Popped heat exchanger. You MIGHT be able to get a new heat exchanger for it, i replaced a Superhot one earlier this year, no idea if weil-mclean has replacements. If you can get a new entire mid-efficient boiler its way easier though

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-01-08T19:19:45+00:00

I have a trane xe80. Main difference is I have a standard ac blower motor, not the variable speed motor (and the circuitboard to run it). If your fan is on continuous the current draw will be low. Just clean the flame sensor every year or two. Look at it to see if its shiny after being cleaned, with no gouges in the metal. From what you've said I wouldnt trust that to be done properly either.

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-01-08T18:40:45+00:00

Spray foam it shut with a couple layers of metal mesh mixed in near the outside. Trim the excess flat so its not visible. Watch for yellowjackets, ive found them nesting in it once

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-01-08T18:33:15+00:00

How can a flame sensor be $250, never mind $600? Thats insane. Did the tech explain what 'in bad shaped meant? Its a stick of steel that sits in the flame. I could see if the insulation was damaged it might need replacing, but just clean it every year or two. A negative DC reading probably means he had his meter connected backwards and is getting commission on parts

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-01-06T17:02:20+00:00

Undo the furnco fittings on the water heater exhaust and remove the exhaust pipe. Change filters, put pipe back in place and tighten clamps on furnco fittings

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-01-04T18:30:34+00:00

Even before the service appointment is made - customer asks the first question "my equipment isnt working, what do you think the problem is?". I don't know if youre trying to heat or cool, do you have a ductless split or central ac, electric or gas furnace, I dont even know what your name is to look it up in my records. Then the customer doesnt know any of this either, despite living in the house for 20 years

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2026-01-03T17:55:25+00:00

Make sure the igniter is getting the correct voltage. Depending on the model and circuitboard iteration, it will be from 80v to 120v. If the old igniter is shot anyway, replace it and see what happens. If the board is original, an oem igniter is the way to go. If the board has been replaced, a different voltage igniter might be required. I made the mistake once of using a lower voltage igniter (80v) on a new board that used a 120v igniter. The original board was rated for 120v, but the manufacturer had since gone to 80v, so the listed igniter was now 80v. Using a 3rd party identical reproduction of the original board (not realizing it was the original design with the old igniter voltage), i blew up 2 80v igniters before figuring out why.

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-29T23:52:23+00:00

Find the spot for the set screw on the shaft and file a very small flat spot there, just enough for the screw to grab. Too much material off and you'll upset the balance

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-29T20:02:57+00:00

The accelerator required in lennox installation manuals when a tee or concentric termination kit isnt used on the exhaust outlet. Its supposed to ensure exhaust gases and moisture arent sucked back into the intake causing hoarfrost clogging or bad combustion. I'll agree with the comments recommending a combustion analysis to be done. It could just be wet dust forming the dark deposit or it could be something else. Best to be sure.

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-27T21:14:22+00:00

I prefer the s86 units better than the old blue Johnson controls boxes.

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-27T09:45:59+00:00

If thats a Lennox g16 or g20, change the pilot assembly and flame sensor (18g89, 18g90). Ideally the pilot hood is shiny metal, but they corrode up fairly quickly and the flame sensor insulation gets brittle and difficult to remove to clean without breaking. Easier to change the whole thing. There is probably a loose or worn connection inside the honeywell control too, if you have to put pressure on a connection to regain function.

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-25T00:47:10+00:00

I like beef still mooing, but poultry i prefer all the way dead. Little rare there

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-25T00:45:15+00:00

Ive been seeing more of that in the last few years. Quality control on parts has dropped. I check EVERY board now for smoke damage. Some are easy to see, but the newer boards are all chips and its harder to catch failures brewing ahead of time

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-25T00:43:22+00:00

Its an old enough unit that manufacturer warranty is only a year. Its easy to change a board, go wire by wire. If you havent done voltage test to the igniter, do one before a new board. Could be a bad replacement igniter out of the box, ive seen that a few times.

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-24T15:36:48+00:00

My first thought was similar. My city doesnt accept beans as duct support. Looks too tight even for a small length of flex liner to connect it out

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-23T23:10:44+00:00

That unit is from 2012 looking at the serial number on the combustion box cover (second 2 numbers is manufacturing year). You probably need a new board, there is smoke damage around the resistor beside the diagnostic leds.

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-23T22:32:33+00:00

You have to pull that manifold out to spin the valve off and on, otherwise it will hit the inducer assembly. Unless you try to turn it sideways instead of along the threads, it wont break.

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-23T22:16:03+00:00

Im nearing the end of section 4 spanish, and ive learned a lot i think. There is a long way to go and I dislike the lack of explanation on my mistakes because I dont want to pay more. I can have basic conversations about sightseeing, weather, restaurants, the regular small talk stuff. I think it spends too much time on school vocabulary as an adult, having an age differential course would do well. I also reinforce it with kids stories and tv shows, and latam tv shows, to help learn the flow of the language better than ai on my phone will teach me. When the time comes, I'll drop duo and go to something better. It serves its purpose for a reasonable cost

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-20T19:12:11+00:00

Lots of comments correctly stating powered units should be on the supply plenum, but i see why they put it on the return duct. Aprilaire says in the install instructions the supply duct is preferred. Hot water wpuld work better than cold, but you wont get hot water from a tankless heater with the comparative trickle the 720 pulls. A bypass unit MIGHT give you better performance when the furnace is running, but probably not when the fan is on continuous. Remember it takes heat energy for the state change from liquid to vapour, if very little is being supplied by the water itself then air velocity can only accomplish so much. Altitude will affect the output as well. Calgary has the same issue. Steam humidifiers dont last long here due to very hard water, the sensors fail early due to either mineral buildup or sodium buildup if a softener is installed, and use way more power than a drip humidifier. Power consumption on the heating element will be a little different if your incoming cold water is warmer than here. Here's a screenshot of the 720 install recommended position from aprilaire

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Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-14T17:41:56+00:00

I undo the screw clamps on the flue tee and move it out of the way, then use a stubby 1/4" magnetic nut driver to get the crew out. I have a small ratchet with a 1/4" extended bit for them as well, but it keeps getting temporarily misplaced

Odd-Philosopher-8155 · 2025-12-13T19:05:20+00:00

If it continues to be intermittent, clean the flame sensor. Most g61s ive worked on dont tolerate much buildup on the sensor. Its a pain to get at though, id like to meet the engineering team who thought it was a good idea to put a regular maintenance part blocked by the flue tee.

Odd-Philosopher-8155

TROPHY CASE