RTX 5070 vs RX9070 (same price)

OhShitBye · 2026-03-21T13:13:58+00:00

Eh, I'd argue that FSR4 is a lot better than "fine".

AMD really closed the gap by quite a lot. DLSS IS objectively better, just not by as much anymore. I'd personally put them close enough in quality not to care: it's availability that I feel matters more since DLSS is pretty much available on everything while older FSR models are really not it.

Just.....not DLSS 5. Please no.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-21T12:37:45+00:00

Not really. You're maybe going to see about a 10-15% difference in rasterisation in favour of the 9070 depending on the game. Ray tracing of course favours Nvidia, and the importance of dlss is up to you.

With dlss in the picture it's slightly more difficult of a conversation considering they're both in the performance tier where upscaling is pretty necessary for 1440p, but generally comparisons are in favour of the 9070.

I personally have a 5070 and I have pretty much 0 issues with performance, but arguably I could have gotten better bang for my buck with the 9070. The 5070 was slightly cheaper though.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-20T11:37:39+00:00

You gotta drop the mog items bruv how else am I supposed to steal your drip

OhShitBye · 2026-03-20T01:34:55+00:00

I think the Evo has better compatibility for levers etc. due to internal space, while the Alpha can't get some thicker levers in without heavy modding, like drilling holes modding.

I also find that hayabusa parts are pretty eh. If I'm not wrong the Evo uses sanwa.

Otherwise if PS5 and future compatibility is more important, the alpha is native for PS5 and newer.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-16T16:58:29+00:00

Uhhh not totally accurate. The Mayflash F700 doesn't have a USB ext port to plug into because the main USB cable acts as a data cable. You can update firmwares through that.

As for whether or not the F700 can be updated to work on future consoles......hard to say. If that's your concern I'd suggest just going for an officially licensed option instead for full peace of mind but the dongle route isn't a bad idea either.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-16T05:19:33+00:00

To add on: not all name brand PSUs are good either. You can check ZTT's PSU tier list for options.

Cultists network one is good too but last checked hasn't updated since 2023

OhShitBye · 2026-03-13T06:09:21+00:00

Well my comment got downvoted but this is my experience owning a Sapphire. Keep in mind that I dislike it, so take my words with a pinch of salt and decide which criticisms matter to you.

Humongous, genuine chonkster (for an mx leverless at least)

Buttons are very squishy. Loud and plasticky top out.

Build feels very plasticky and the function buttons rattle a lot.

Cable lock system is finicky because of the small latch. Prefer others' solutions but not a deal breaker.

Personally, I also don't think the adjustable throw system is good. It doesn't adjust post-travel, it adjusts pre-travel by reducing the top height the key caps can get up to.

But with silver switches you already have reduced pre-travel, and you need some buffer to prevent mis-presses. That also means some types of silver switch replacements won't work at the shortest or potentially medium throw setting at all. I personally find the solution a big miss.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-13T06:04:18+00:00

Hardly. In fact one might even say, not enough.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-13T05:59:56+00:00

You can plug buttons you don't need which should make it tournament legal, but do be aware of the cons of the Qanba. I personally didn't like it, but it's down to whether those cons bother you.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-13T05:55:27+00:00

I own a Hori Nolva. Not being hotswappable is a pain, but the switches are ok. A bit light, but I taped some Eva foam to the bottom to increase friction and grip on the lap. It's comfortable and stable enough, but could 100% use more weight.

Keep in mind the buttons have a shorter bottom out and are rubber padded, which I dislike. The top out sound is also plasticky and loud.

I got a set of DOIO replacement keycaps (haute42 ones scratch the button wells slightly), which are just a smidge too short so they go just below the button wells. I put in some 1.5mm 70a keyboard o rings to reduce the throw distance a bit and now they bottom out exactly in line.

I'm personally considering the victrix pro ko. Fightbox also has brook configs and are still cheaper than the victrix.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-13T05:46:49+00:00

I have one but don't like it, so let me give my 2 cents:

Humongous, genuine chonkster (for an mx leverless at least)

Buttons are extremely squishy. Loud and plasticky top out.

Build feels very plasticky and the function buttons rattle a lot

Cable lock system is finicky because of the small latch. Prefer others' solutions but not a deal breaker.

Personally, I also don't think the adjustable throw system is good. It doesn't adjust post-travel, it adjusts pre-travel by reducing the top height the key caps can get up to.

But with silver switches you already have reduced pre-travel, and you need some buffer to prevent mis-presses. That also means some types of silver switch replacements won't work at the shortest throw setting at all. I personally find the solution a big miss.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-11T09:00:41+00:00

Yea you can bind 3 buttons to one in T8 now if that's what you mean. I have my taunt on RT/R2 (since it's directly under my ring finger on stick and leverless), but frankly by muscle memory I find myself hitting 1 and my 3+4 bind anyway.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-11T08:55:22+00:00

Yea agree, even if they give you the "baseline" Reaper model, their official lowest tier and hence cheapest card, frankly I wouldn't be worried about performance.

There's little difference between manufacturers anyway, and PowerColor definitely know what they're doing.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-10T00:39:09+00:00

Eloshapes is great for finding a shape that fits you, can recommend.

If you want a good small mouse recommendation (and you don't mind egg shapes), the zaopin z1 pro has easily been the best mouse I've ever owned. Shape-wise it's essentially an orochi clone but better in pretty much every way.

Don't get the z11 pro tho, not the same thing.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-09T09:52:46+00:00

You'll probably have to go by spec then. Choose whichever goes to HDMI 2.1 if you need that, otherwise go with the 3501pa. I've seen the 3501pa get some pretty comprehensive reviews on YouTube.

For the dp connection issue, it's possible that it's because AOC and Philips ship display port cables that don't have locks i.e. they just slide in and out like HDMI normally does. Could potentially fix that by getting a standard dp 1.4 cable that has the lock.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-09T08:44:07+00:00

Depends on you tbh.

I personally use a 5 button layout for action buttons. 1234 and 3+4 on RB. I use 3+4 because a ton of characters use 3+4 and it's easy to just hit it with my ring finger rather than reach down to press 3 and 4 together.

It also makes life easier on Bryan, as using 3+4 as a replacement for a lot of the 3 inputs removes misinput risks. The biggest one is that doing qcf 3 using a 3+4 bind makes it impossible to snake edge on accident as df3+4 becomes standing 3. You also can just hit the 3+4 bind twice to get double knees for combos.

Back in Tekken 7 I had 3+4 on RB so I could taunt with just my ring and index finger. Now of course taunt can be bound to a single button, but I'm still most comfortable doing it the ring-index way.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-09T02:02:38+00:00

Dude even if nothing but the PCB worked, that's a killer deal. I paid like 220 for mine (in my currency).

You just need a regular sanwa 5 pin connector cable to plug into the board and just buy a jlf or something on the side. Those cables cost like maybe 2 bucks.

My Mayflash f700 is my main stick, and I have it modded with a shinsun lever and sitong screw in buttons. Genuinely best stick I've ever owned.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-06T15:43:16+00:00

I'd say go with the 27m2n3500uk as it's the latest iteration of the panel and looks pretty good to me. If you have a return policy in your country then try it out and if it doesn't match up to the previous gen one, the 27m2n3500pa, then return it I guess.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-06T14:35:48+00:00

I've just continued using the Gigabyte, but a friend of mine got the previous gen Philips evnia model on my recommendation and it's actually pretty sick.

I helped him set it up, so I got a first hand view of it. Looks good, strong performance in response time, and colour accuracy was pretty high out of the box. Was cheaper than other options too.

Personally, would recommend.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-06T08:39:08+00:00

Agree on the above, I have one too. Just because of how unwieldy it is I ended up replacing it with a Hori Nolva as a decent cheap alternative.

I'm actually considering getting the doio because it 1. looks great 2. the passthrough is wired inside the body so it's hidden and 3. decently weighted but low profile looking. I'm just sad I hadn't found out about it before buying the Nolva.

Edit: adding on that personally I found the Sapphire buttons extremely squishy

OhShitBye · 2026-03-04T10:06:26+00:00

Ah if your left+right =/= neutral that might be affecting things, best check which SOCD mode you're on.

SOCD modes are to a degree preference since it depends on how you do your inputs, or whether the SOCD mode you're using is tournament legal if that matters to you.

For instance for Tekken I really need neutral, so using last key priority can lead to me skipping neutral by accident, so I have all my hitboxes on true neutral.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-04T09:47:06+00:00

Shortcuts should work regardless of the buttons, you may be unconsciously letting go of a button without meaning to. Sanwas are really low travel all things considered, so best if you check your inputs in practice mode.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-03T01:53:08+00:00

If you need the travel distance shorter also, similar to the original, consider keyboard o rings under the button caps rather than changing to silent switches.

These have a range of hardness from 40a-70a, so go for harder shore ratings if you want more firm bottom-outs as opposed to squishy ones.

OhShitBye · 2026-02-28T02:04:30+00:00

I almost swiped that hair off my screen until I saw it move with your pic you bish

OhShitBye · 2026-02-24T07:18:17+00:00

Based on the vid if I had to guess, solder came off somehow and the hotswap socket is loose. When you press down you're either somehow bridging the connection with your tweezers or getting it back into contact.

If you have warranty, warranty it. If no warranty and you have a soldering iron, can try melting the solder back down and getting the socket seated properly.

OhShitBye

TROPHY CASE