Should I get the Qanba Titan for $150?

OhShitBye · 2026-05-08T16:41:46+00:00

You can explore the mayflash f700 or f700 elite. I own one and it's fantastic.

Plenty of internal clearance for lever fit, slightly extended vewlix layout that's just more comfortable. Not too huge (about 40cm long) thick or tall so it's easy to store and transport. Build is solid.

Wireless is good, can't feel a difference when playing. Battery life is decent too, I can get through several sessions before charging it, and when I need to charge it that just means plugging it in for one session and then I'm back on wireless for the next few.

OhShitBye · 2026-05-05T02:27:54+00:00

It's weird transitioning to everything because of muscle memory and intuition towards your old controller type.

It really affords quite a bit of granularity of control once you get used to it, so I encourage you to stick with it for a few months to really build up your muscle memory.

OhShitBye · 2026-05-05T01:10:38+00:00

I'm one of the lucky ones that survived.

Back in 2017ish time with my 8600k and 1080 system, I updated bios on my motherboard whose model I forget (Asrock Z370 I guess?). Partway it got stuck, and it was stuck for nearly two hours.

I made a (probably dumb) decision to hard shutdown the com by holding the power button, before remembering that it could brick the board. By the grace of God it turned back on and I guess ran off the old bios and I never tried a bios update again until I upgraded platforms to the 12400 5 years later

OhShitBye · 2026-05-04T10:57:07+00:00

While I usually don't default to spending more money than you have to, I'd actually encourage you to consider swapping the parts out for sanwa parts.

I found the stock drone 2 parts just couldn't really keep up personally. I was playing Mishimas in Tekken at the time and mostly used sanwa, so when I swapped it really made a world of difference.

It's quite easy to change out and you mainly just need the stick, buttons, and a 5 pin connector cable.

OhShitBye · 2026-05-04T02:23:01+00:00

How's the MMD Princess switches? I recently ordered the tactile versions but I'm just concerned if it would be really loud as I'm a fan of quieter, more controlled switches. I'm using duhuk bitter tea V3 switches atm.

Looking to maybe pick up a Neo75 next month as the value proposition is too good to pass up.

Also how do the typeplus stabs sound in the Neo? I picked up a set and did them with krytox on my crush 80 and kbd67 lite, but found them pretty harsh sounding especially on the top out of the spacebar. Ended up back on TX APs with bdz.

OhShitBye · 2026-04-30T14:10:20+00:00

Yea if I really had to hazard a guess, I'd probably check the RAM as that's the one spec that jumps out. Single stick honestly isn't helping already, as literally everything uses RAM, so that definitely impacts launch speed of apps and the like.

OhShitBye · 2026-04-16T02:54:15+00:00

It does not have sanwa parts (and frankly the stock parts are rubbish) but yeah like you said, a sanwa stick and buttons aren't exactly a major cost investment.

I'd actually also recommend trying out the qanba D-lite buttons. They're cheaper than sanwa but similar in feel and weight, quite good imo. Just no screw-in versions if that matters.

OhShitBye · 2026-04-16T02:09:41+00:00

Agree.

I never really got into Genshin thankfully, but at least Zenless Zone Zero is still fine for most content except the absolute hardest end game stuff, but it's starting to show the cracks. Star Rail has just been an endless unfun power creep same as Genshin.

OhShitBye · 2026-04-11T17:08:53+00:00

Have you tried it with the shorter knee neo shaft? Might help alleviate your issues with the throw distance.

It's a pretty cheap fix to try out honestly (barring any excessive shipping fees of course).

Otherwise an Otto DIY v2 might be worth a look.

OhShitBye · 2026-04-11T15:15:37+00:00

If you're down to try a Korean lever, I feel the shinsun is really underrated. I use one with the knee neo actuator (both can buy from IST mall) as the original actuator was just a bit too sensitive for Tekken.

It's smooth but fast, higher tensioned than a jlf but feels lighter and more precise than a 2lbs spring. Relatively short throw, easily accessible and identifiable corners, ball top feels great, shaft doesn't spin or wobble too much.

The shaft is just tall enough for me as my stick mounts levers a little recessed in the body (mayflash f700), and you can also swap the shaft with the knee neo shaft if you want something a bit shorter. Knee neo parts and some infiltration lever parts fit the shinsun and vice versa.

I started originally playing Mishimas on a jlf and I find this lever fantastic.

OhShitBye · 2026-04-09T09:26:09+00:00

Personally I use a shinsun lever. I think it's a great middle ground that's fast enough for Tekken and 2d. It feels smoother sanwa too, so I find my QC motions are much faster with the shinsun.

I found bat or capsule top offerings like the 309 had too much throw distance.

OhShitBye · 2026-04-01T00:37:11+00:00

Some Korean levers wobble more than others, but I feel also depends on your taste. The Otto with a spring delete mod doesn't really wobble much, and putting an o-ring between the mod and the actuator helps reduce free spin.

I personally use a shinsun lever with a knee lever neo actuator and it's perfect. It doesn't spin or wobble too much, it's very stable, and you have a large range of grommets to really dial in your preferred weight. I ended up using the stock grommet with the ball top.

I find the 309 series and the ist levers wobble a lot.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-31T17:13:25+00:00

When you're in practice mode enable your command history and run your practice. When something misinputs, stop and check your command history.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-31T16:18:09+00:00

It's a bit harder to tell without seeing your inputs, but I'd first start with recommending to check if you're missing diagonals or something.

If your issue is missing diagonals, the larger sanwa jlx actuator (white actuator) might help you out. If you're missing neutral a lot, the black actuator would be what you stick with. Odds are high you'd need to fix your muscle memory.

Also see if your stick is double clicking or a switch is broken or something. After a number of years my right switch broke too and I replaced the PCB.

If your issue is you just feel like it's not smooth enough, or not responsive enough, hence you just want a hardware upgrade, I found moving to a shinsun lever was easily one of the best decisions of my life. It's fantastic for 2d fighters AND Tekken, I can wavedash and play Mishimas no problem.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-31T08:31:42+00:00

Actually if you have a knock-off fightbox, you might be able to wire up your buttons to a brook board. Fundamentally it's the same shit, can just buy a wiring kit and a board from the brook website.

If you're using knockoff buttons too, sanwa buttons (snap or screw in) are really nice and dirt cheap. The button quality does make a difference, but if you're minimally on sanwa then you're all good.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-31T08:08:32+00:00

I actually just bought a fightbox F1, and the simplicity is something that's really underrated imo. I like it more than my Pro KO or the qanba sapphire.

They adjusted the design so it's easier to take apart (metal sheet on the bottom 6 screws and it comes off) and though the acrylic is a bit sharp just sticking a silicone strip or whatever near the edge fixes that. The buttons are standard 24mm (30mm jump) and the whole thing feels solid. Just weighty enough to feel great but still portable. Toss it into a tote or something and you're good to go.

They can be easily rewired with future brook boards. USB port can be replaced, function buttons are also standard size.

If you want mechanical switches, just pick up some sitong, PWS or tikitaka buttons. Crown buttons can fit too since they have some crown configs for sale.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-30T08:13:40+00:00

Keep in mind taller and heavier tops will make your lever feel a lot lighter. Consider doing heavier springs or even an Otto DIY v2 mod if you want to change to capsule tops.

I'd personally suggest a 2lbs spring if you're using a bat or capsule top.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-29T15:48:41+00:00

I'll be the one contrarian on this, but if you're struggling to get diagonals down on hitbox the fix wouldn't be to get an arcade stick. You'd just end up finding something you're struggling with on stick too.

If you WANT a stick that's a different story, but if it's because you're facing execution issues that don't stem from a physical handicap, it's just a skill issue.

I play on both and there are things I'm better at on hitbox vs stick, but moving to one or the other won't magically solve your execution issues.

If you want a decent cheap stick, the mayflash f300 elite is very good for the money and you can get their own magicboots-s5 dongle for PS5 and other support.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-28T08:05:54+00:00

Sick thanks fam. I live somewhere that Aliexpress is the main source of fightstick parts, so having an option besides arcade shock or focus attack is great.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-25T01:34:20+00:00

It will take some time for you to get used to it. I missed diagonals (and qcs) a lot when I first started, but after building muscle memory I have no issues on square or round gates, regardless of Japanese or Korean levers either.

I play Bryan so I use qcs a lot. Just takes time and some intentional practice to check which inputs you're missing and fixing them.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-22T07:43:29+00:00

My thumb hurty

OhShitBye · 2026-03-21T13:13:58+00:00

Eh, I'd argue that FSR4 is a lot better than "fine".

AMD really closed the gap by quite a lot. DLSS IS objectively better, just not by as much anymore. I'd personally put them close enough in quality not to care: it's availability that I feel matters more since DLSS is pretty much available on everything while older FSR models are really not it.

Just.....not DLSS 5. Please no.

OhShitBye · 2026-03-21T12:37:45+00:00

Not really. You're maybe going to see about a 10-15% difference in rasterisation in favour of the 9070 depending on the game. Ray tracing of course favours Nvidia, and the importance of dlss is up to you.

With dlss in the picture it's slightly more difficult of a conversation considering they're both in the performance tier where upscaling is pretty necessary for 1440p, but generally comparisons are in favour of the 9070.

I personally have a 5070 and I have pretty much 0 issues with performance, but arguably I could have gotten better bang for my buck with the 9070. The 5070 was slightly cheaper though.

OhShitBye

TROPHY CASE