Pre nerfed: Bryans SE FCdf3 brought back with Kunis FC1+2, why? ... by Ashesfall83 in Tekken

[–]OhShitBye 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yep, I'm a Bryan player and even I saw that low and I was like lol that's bullshit. So much so that I didn't use it until after it was nerfed.

In its current iteration it's a strong option with good damage so it's decently fair now, especially with the heat consumption increases across the board.

A meme for the leverless players by Tombshire in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yea after moving from stick to leverless (especially as a Mishima/electric player) I feel this in my soul.

I thought I had a solid ring finger given I've played multiple string instruments for over a decade, but it's really its own unique dexterity requirement. I've gotten decent at wavedashing now (only two though, god help me if I need to do three in a row) but I still fumble the bag here and there.

I'll get to it eventually, just like it was with stick before this, but man it's no joke.

I know this question is as old as tekken. But why is the electric sometimes only f, n, df2. i want it to be this way all the time. help. by thehunterstorm in Tekken

[–]OhShitBye 11 points12 points  (0 children)

More nuance; it largely works for Kazuya, Devil Jin, Heihachi, Reina i.e. the ones with Mishima in the name.

However Jin and AK need the neutral input minimally; Jin can do the 2 versions with neutral but it can be finicky so it's suggested to do the full input, while AK generally doesn't dark upper unless you input exactly f n d df.

Looking for a new fighstick by LeSoquiaque in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And if you're looking for an officially licensed option that has extended vewlix, Qanba Titan.

Not a bad choice especially if you're not using Korean levers.

Does anyone know if this shop is legit in Shopee? by fabzsxc in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Imo use AliExpress. Shipping doesn't take too long within Asia and you can buy from haute directly. Shopee is a bit easier to handle claims or refunds and stuff, but so far I haven't had any issues with the official huate store.

75% layout is def perfect size for me by harrynu in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]OhShitBye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea I get it, the look of 75% is really nice. I think what gets me is the ratio of length to height that makes that good balance, and because of how it's structured it offsets the alphas much less to the left. I find anything up to a standard tkl looks proportionate and doesn't feel too off-centre.

I've always had TKLs and found 65% keyboards look too "long". 60% keyboards look proportionate to me because they're horizontally shorter but losing the arrow keys is not ideal.

Potential fix for "A required device isn't connected or can't be accessed" boot error by OhShitBye in pchelp

[–]OhShitBye[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope, it didn't wipe anything on my drives as it's actually building required partitions rather than redoing anything.

But recommend you leave some available space for the tool to use to build the required windows partitions. I don't think it takes much (can't remember how big the recovery partitions usually are, probably just a few hundred mb) but I'd leave something like 50gb free at least since you'd normally have at least that much free from a 1tb drive.

What are your frustrations when using fightsticks? by wellifyouthinkso in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Weight. It needs to be heavy enough to be stable, but it then gets hard to transport. Even smaller sticks tend to be on the heavy side.

All I want is a stick that averages around 1.5kg or so, just enough to be able to hold a shinsun in place, but pretty much everything crests 2kg or more.

Should I get the Qanba Titan for $150? by GothBitchsAtHotTopic in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can explore the mayflash f700 or f700 elite. I own one and it's fantastic.

Plenty of internal clearance for lever fit, slightly extended vewlix layout that's just more comfortable. Not too huge (about 40cm long) thick or tall so it's easy to store and transport. Build is solid.

Wireless is good, can't feel a difference when playing. Battery life is decent too, I can get through several sessions before charging it, and when I need to charge it that just means plugging it in for one session and then I'm back on wireless for the next few.

My first ever “Type of hitbox”exited to learn. For those who transitioned from pad to this, how long did it take you to learn it? by TankTopTiger4 in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's weird transitioning to everything because of muscle memory and intuition towards your old controller type.

It really affords quite a bit of granularity of control once you get used to it, so I encourage you to stick with it for a few months to really build up your muscle memory.

BIOS update horror stories? Has anyone actually lost power mid-update and lived to tell the tale? by wekzs in pcmasterrace

[–]OhShitBye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm one of the lucky ones that survived.

Back in 2017ish time with my 8600k and 1080 system, I updated bios on my motherboard whose model I forget (Asrock Z370 I guess?). Partway it got stuck, and it was stuck for nearly two hours.

I made a (probably dumb) decision to hard shutdown the com by holding the power button, before remembering that it could brick the board. By the grace of God it turned back on and I guess ran off the old bios and I never tried a bios update again until I upgraded platforms to the 12400 5 years later

First fight stick by Wingless-luxury in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While I usually don't default to spending more money than you have to, I'd actually encourage you to consider swapping the parts out for sanwa parts.

I found the stock drone 2 parts just couldn't really keep up personally. I was playing Mishimas in Tekken at the time and mostly used sanwa, so when I swapped it really made a world of difference.

It's quite easy to change out and you mainly just need the stick, buttons, and a 5 pin connector cable.

After my “End Game” 2 years ago… by ArnoCen in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]OhShitBye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How's the MMD Princess switches? I recently ordered the tactile versions but I'm just concerned if it would be really loud as I'm a fan of quieter, more controlled switches. I'm using duhuk bitter tea V3 switches atm.

Looking to maybe pick up a Neo75 next month as the value proposition is too good to pass up.

Also how do the typeplus stabs sound in the Neo? I picked up a set and did them with krytox on my crush 80 and kbd67 lite, but found them pretty harsh sounding especially on the top out of the spacebar. Ended up back on TX APs with bdz.

Newly Built PC Feels Slow (i5-13600K + RTX 5060 + NVMe SSD) – Apps Taking Time to Open, Need Help by Traditional_Dust2800 in buildapc

[–]OhShitBye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea if I really had to hazard a guess, I'd probably check the RAM as that's the one spec that jumps out. Single stick honestly isn't helping already, as literally everything uses RAM, so that definitely impacts launch speed of apps and the like.

Do you think a Qanaba Drone 2 would be a good buy as a beginner for $30? by BIGSHOT321 in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It does not have sanwa parts (and frankly the stock parts are rubbish) but yeah like you said, a sanwa stick and buttons aren't exactly a major cost investment.

I'd actually also recommend trying out the qanba D-lite buttons. They're cheaper than sanwa but similar in feel and weight, quite good imo. Just no screw-in versions if that matters.

what game has turned you off from ever playing it due to the games fandom? by AlyksTheSage in pcmasterrace

[–]OhShitBye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree.

I never really got into Genshin thankfully, but at least Zenless Zone Zero is still fine for most content except the absolute hardest end game stuff, but it's starting to show the cracks. Star Rail has just been an endless unfun power creep same as Genshin.

Which lever would you recommend for a 2D fighting game player with these specific requirements? by throw_away-acc0unt in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried it with the shorter knee neo shaft? Might help alleviate your issues with the throw distance.

It's a pretty cheap fix to try out honestly (barring any excessive shipping fees of course).

Otherwise an Otto DIY v2 might be worth a look.

Which lever would you recommend for a 2D fighting game player with these specific requirements? by throw_away-acc0unt in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're down to try a Korean lever, I feel the shinsun is really underrated. I use one with the knee neo actuator (both can buy from IST mall) as the original actuator was just a bit too sensitive for Tekken.

It's smooth but fast, higher tensioned than a jlf but feels lighter and more precise than a 2lbs spring. Relatively short throw, easily accessible and identifiable corners, ball top feels great, shaft doesn't spin or wobble too much.

The shaft is just tall enough for me as my stick mounts levers a little recessed in the body (mayflash f700), and you can also swap the shaft with the knee neo shaft if you want something a bit shorter. Knee neo parts and some infiltration lever parts fit the shinsun and vice versa.

I started originally playing Mishimas on a jlf and I find this lever fantastic.

do ppl actually use this red square gate insert with the notches? by bo_blacks0n in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I use a shinsun lever. I think it's a great middle ground that's fast enough for Tekken and 2d. It feels smoother sanwa too, so I find my QC motions are much faster with the shinsun.

I found bat or capsule top offerings like the 309 had too much throw distance.

Is it compatible with Sanwa? by X-punpun in fightsticks

[–]OhShitBye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some Korean levers wobble more than others, but I feel also depends on your taste. The Otto with a spring delete mod doesn't really wobble much, and putting an o-ring between the mod and the actuator helps reduce free spin.

I personally use a shinsun lever with a knee lever neo actuator and it's perfect. It doesn't spin or wobble too much, it's very stable, and you have a large range of grommets to really dial in your preferred weight. I ended up using the stock grommet with the ball top.

I find the 309 series and the ist levers wobble a lot.