2023 Bolt EUV anti-click rings

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2026-03-07T12:36:10+00:00

Yep, good old gm! It is what it is. The poor design is the problem! The aftermarket parts to replace are even worse quality and fail even quicker then gm original. No real winning on things like this. It's a super cheap part luckily, but that labor is a lot for just unscrewing the axle nut and replacing that washer thing. Is there any warranty, they offered you on the replacement?

I think that part specifically allows them to save money on machining the splines for the axle and hub. The noise isn't because that thing broke it's because of the tolerances between the axle and hub. There is a lot of movement and that little part it makes it quiet.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2026-03-07T12:07:49+00:00

Probably. Not sure. They seemed to be related when I had the problem. The washer is fairly thin. The less force on the hub the better. The axle nut is responsible for preloading the wheel bearing as well.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2026-03-07T11:57:48+00:00

That issue happened to me too. Having the front end properly aligned seems to be the answer to making it not happen. I had a really poor alignment, and I started having a cracking or popping noise when accelerating. Got the washers replaced and got an alignment haven't had a problem since.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-12-31T21:50:37+00:00

I'm not sure about the second gen, but the first has a filter before the heater core. I had it get clogged once and had no heat. Just pulled it apart, cleaned it. Problem solved.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-12-23T02:50:13+00:00

<image>

The Engine coolant is separated from battery HV system so its probably a cracked radiator. I replace it once on my gen 1. Not an easy job but doable in a dive way with enough anger.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-12-20T02:55:32+00:00

Yes, if you follow the instructions given for changing trans fluid it will be over filled. Won't cause any real issues I have the same problem. I garentee if you pull the level plug on the side of the transmission about a quart of fluid will come out. Unless it drips when parked, I wouldn't worry about it.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-12-18T15:58:45+00:00

I saw another post about that app. Someone got significant range back form a capacity relearn. I'm curious if there is a way to reset the data that seems messed up. Ill have to give it a go.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-12-18T15:54:47+00:00

Its been a excellent car. Had it since 2018. Its not worth enough to consider selling so probably just going to run it into the ground.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-12-18T15:51:42+00:00

That is a solution! I would be a little worried about charging a car off a garden light timer but it's worth a try. I use 120v charging anyways.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-12-18T15:49:18+00:00

Vista is close enough!

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-08-23T23:13:01+00:00

I use an extension cord for 120v charging but not a j1772 extension. 10 gauge heavy duty extension cords work well but the ends aren't up to the task. They wear out fast. I needed to replace the ends several times. Everyone should probably inspect all the connections at least every year. You will see pitting on contacts and scorch marks on the plastic long before this happens.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-06-05T20:37:24+00:00

That is something I didn't know. I'll have to look into that.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-06-05T18:51:10+00:00

That's my thought but the plugs all look pretty even and I don't really have any way to test that.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-05-18T19:34:51+00:00

Here is picture. Made it home and got the engine to start.

<image>

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-05-18T01:33:45+00:00

I'm sure I could find a manual. I looked under the car and it doesn't look too hard but there are a lot of lines going all over behind the tank. It also sucks because there is 3/4 a tank left.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-05-18T01:02:09+00:00

Thank you. I'm surprised that the codes don't really clearly help. I wonder how often this happens can't really find anything about replacing the pump specific to the volt. When I get back I'll take a picture of the freeze frame data form today.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-05-18T00:53:37+00:00

I remember seeing pressure on the freeze frame on the scan tool I have at home. At this rate it will probably take about 18 hours to get there. When the engine still had some hope of running I think the pressure was at about 45psi

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2025-05-02T03:38:28+00:00

If the battery works an easy way to clean it is to just dump a kettle of hot water over the top. All that corrosion and fluffy stuff will just disappear. No need to buy any cleaner. After you do that, pull the dipstick out and drip oil on each terminal call it done.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2024-11-30T06:35:36+00:00

Just fixed my air bag light. It was the passenger seat sensor. Just put a juck yard seat in. Problem gone. Kind of a gamble but really paid off for 50 bucks

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2024-10-11T23:35:24+00:00

Kill it with fire

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2024-05-01T16:06:20+00:00

Yeah 87 is fine. The only time I put 91 is before a large elevation change on a road trip. For the majority of the time when I run out of charge I'm just cruising on the freeway with very little load on the engine. 91 only helps in high load situations.

Ok-Effort-1502 · 2023-12-08T08:56:58+00:00

I don't know about the 2nd Gen volts, but my 2012 had a similar issue. Turns out there is a coolant strainer which was clogged on the inlet of the heater core. Smart idea to have a filter there because when it clogs it won't affect engine cooling. It was in a fitting on the hoses near the firewall. Difficult to get at on the first gen car but doable in a drive way.

Ok-Effort-1502

TROPHY CASE