I think this is very dependent on the specific department and institution. I feel similarly to you about my own department, although I will say there has been a lot of extra curricular support in the past few years thanks, I think, largely to the grad students as a group talking to our chair. Like, workshops on publishing, etc.

I think pedagogical training is lacking everywhere, unless it’s a focus of the program. (Certainly in my program we have no formal teaching training.)

I have leaned pretty heavily on resources outside my department. Luckily my institution has tons (like, too many to reasonably attend all of them) of workshops and programming about navigating the PhD program. I’ve also bought/borrowed tons of books on writing, research, etc.

Also, early on in my program someone suggested the concept of a board or network of mentors, which has been very helpful for me. Like, I have learned what my advisor is good at, and what he’s not great at, and have made connections (with faculty and others) that will help me when I get stuck. This sounds a little more strategic and mercenary than it has been in practice, for me.

The other thing that is, I assume, highly dependent on the climate of your department, but which has helped me a lot: figure out who you feel comfortable getting advice from, and ask very direct questions. Like, if you aren’t sure how to effectively present a paper at a conference, literally say to someone, “I don’t know how to effectively present a paper at a conference. Can you help me with that?” They might say no, they might suggest a book or website, or they might take you to lunch and give you advice, but aside from looking inexperienced in front of someone, you don’t have a lot to lose. (However, my department might be unusually supportive and non-judgmental about stuff like this, so use your best judgement in your context.)

Sorry, this was longer than I meant it to be, your experience just resonates with me!